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Need Advice on Starter Woodworking Setup

kctyphoon

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What brand is the squat cage?

Coach

sorry, no idea what you mean.

track saws are good, but only if you buy like every accessory for them, and even then they can be less productive when making multiples like shelving. its much easier to rip 20 shelves to size on a table saw, then quickly move the fence and rip 20 more.. id have to respectively disagree with this. a table saw is pretty much a staple of any home or professioal shop.. i have a 16" band saw too - have never used it..
 
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NedNorton

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Welcome to woodworking! It can be a little much looking at all the tools available and trying to make sense of it all.

Sorry for the long post but after 25 years of woodworking I have a strong sense of what I feel is necessary to do good work and have fun doing it!

Here is my $.02... (I was a carpenter/contractor and have built my fair share of furniture) You can look at my shop rebuild thread. All the cabinet work was done with a tablesaw, chop saw and Kreg jig.:thumbup:

First, you need to be able to machine stock to the proper size. Things need to be flat and straight otherwise you will be fighting it. This requires only a tablesaw for sheet goods. If you plan to use solid lumber for your projects you can add a jointer and a planer. The three combined are the the holy trinity.

OK but what tablesaw, jointer and planer?
It's all about budget. My first place to look would be Craig's list. Most of the machines you are looking for will run for decades when used in a hobby environment and sell for 25%-50% of new. Guys upgrade and need to make room so they are motivated to deal.

Tablesaw- A well used contracter saw from Delta, Jet or Powermatic will run you a few hundred. Just make sure that it runs smoothly and has a good fence (30" capacity). Look for Biesmeyer, or some version of it, and make sure that it locks down tight and can be adjusted to make it parallel to the blade. A cast iron top with cast iron wings is a plus but not mandatory. If you stay in the hobby most likely you will move up to a cabinet saw in the future so this will not be your last saw. Another plus is that contractor saws are able to run on 120v.
I found this on Denver's C's list for $250. This is what you are after..


Ok.. So maybe the budget doesn't have room for a contractor saw. You can live with a small bench-top saw with a good fence until the funds are available. Just remember... Good fence. I'll talk about blades at the end.

Jointer - 6" Used from any recognized manufacturer. Cast iron table. If space is an issue, craftsman made a small 6" (I think HF has one also) that had a cast iron table. It worked great for onsite jobs and I think we paid less than $200 for it. Again, buy used and save yourself some cash.
Found this one tonight for $125.

Most shops have an 8" or larger but then you have to have 220v and they are heavy and take up a bunch of space. Worry about this later.

Planer - Any 12" portable. Keep the knives sharp and it will do just fine. Yes, there are better ones out there but you are just starting and can figure out what you would like to have (i.e. increased capacity, spiral knives, etc) later. This will get you started.
This Delta is listed for $150.


Chop saw - 12" (10" will do for now) Pick your brand. The more established brands will hold their settings better but at this point if it makes 90 degree and 45 degree cuts repeatably your golden. Hell, you may want to look at an old Dewalt rail arm saw. They can be found for under $100 and, once tuned up, can handle most crosscut duties with ease.
Here is one cheap ($40) on C's list. (Buy a good blade)


One poster talked about dust collection. If you can afford it, yes it makes sense. Buy it used and get one that fits your budget. $100-$200 will get you a good machine that will do what your new shop needs it to do. Move the hose from one machine to the next. This is a hobby after all and time is not of the essence.

Bandsaw- This one is tough. Smaller saws are fine for scroll cuts but you can do almost the same thing with jigsaw. Smaller saws won't re-saw very well so I am inclined to recommend that unless you see yourself making a bunch of curvy cuts you hold off until you need to get one.

Hand Power tools- Pick you brand (Bosch, Milwaukee, DeWalt, Ridgid, HF, whatever) Cordless drill, circular saw, router, sander and jigsaw. Used on C's list or visit your local pawnshop. Take cash and offer them 1/2 of the marked price.

Compressor and nail guns - Start small. Pancake. You won't be spraying finishes with it with any success but it will fire both a 18ga and 15ga nailer. Pawnshop or C's list. Porter Cable, Bostich, Hitachi, HF, whatever.

Blades - Forrest makes a great blade. Period. But, just starting, I would look at Freud and CMT. They cost much less and they will stay sharp and run true. A great tool with a crappy blade is a crappy tool and will turn out crappy work. Budget for a good tablesaw blade and one for your chop saw.

When I first started out I built a lot with the tools above. Added in there were some layout tools etc. You should be at a good starting place and as you decide what you want to build you can upgrade and sell off the old stuff to a guy just getting going.

Lastly, start reading the magazines. Fine woodworking, Wood, etc. I may get flack for this but, watch some of the New Yankee Workshop. Norm may not be a master furniture maker but he will show you how to use those tools, safely.

I hope that this helps. Any other questions please feel free to ask. And again, welcome to making sawdust! It's addicting! :beer:

Cheers,
Chris
 
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pauls_workshop

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I'll join in the fray a bit. First off, lots of good ideas above already by many GJers.

I've been doing woodworking for about 35 years. Not a pro - just DIY type, but I've made furniture and plan to make much more in future years as time allows. I also tackle lots of home projects for two houses and do most things myself except when I need a real pro for something. I recommend going to a few REAL auctions for power tools/hand tools as they come up in your area. This largely depends on your local area, but I got probably 1/2 of all my tools for not more than $0.25 on the $1 each, lightly used, from real auctions. Garage sales are also great and much better than Craigslist, as 1. there are alot of Craigslist morons out there and 2. generally stuff gets on Craigslist because the seller wants alot more than garage sale prices for the stuff, whether it deserves it (sometimes) or often not. Doing shopping with the above methods imply you can't be too brand specific in what you find. Anything made in USA is going to be decent, and anything made in Japan too. Anything from Taiwan is going to be OK, like Grizzly stuff, even some HF stuff but not all. I'd be real leary of things from China, or at least if you want to get something, cut the value in 1/2 vs other COOs at this time to not get robbed on them.

Here are brands at least decent, some great: Delta, Jet, Powermatic, older Craftsman from 60's-90's (usually low end, but some ok, older stuff better made), Ryobi, Dewalt, Makita, Milwauikee, Ridgid, Hitatchi, Bosch, Rikon, some HF ok.

I'd start this way in general, but does depend very much on what you plan to do:

1. Cordless drill
2. Cordless impact 1/4" driver for screws
3. Circular saw.
4. Sabre saw.
5. 5" random orbital sander with a speed control
6. Hand tools/bits (hammer [for nails], ball peen hammer [for chisels], deadblow hammer [for assembly/disassy], screwdrivers, chisel set, drill bits (HF *** nitride coated $15 set is fine), router bit set, dremel bit set, pliers, vice grips, clamps, files, rasps, Japanese hand saws)
7. Router - plunge is more adaptable to start with. I like a plunge on its own and later on a fixed non plunge attached to a router table.
8. Dremel - Black and Decker/Performax/Ryobi are good cheap ones.
9. Workbench of some sort, can use sawhorses until this point.
10. A straight finish sander, not same as random orbit, for final finish sanding with the grain on any project. True woodworkers will use scraper blades for fine furniture too.
11. Cross cutting miter saw - A 10" fixed is going to be most accurate, 12" sliding most flexible. I have both and use them both for different purposes. 12" sliding stays in the shop space.
12. Table saw.
13. Bench or floor standing combo belt/disk sander.
14. Drill press.
15. Band saw.
16. Optional track saw.
17. Optional lathe.
18. Optional floor/bench mounted jig saw.
19. Forgot shopvac, needed.
20. Optional woodshop floor standing vacuum system.
21. Optional ceiling mounted fine dust filter system (Jet, Delta).
22. Jointer - 6" is good for most, floor or bench.
23. Planer - 12" portable type good for most.
24. Optional other traditional tools like hand planes, carving tools, scrapers, hand powered drills/bits, etc. It is for fun too and lots of old ways are more fun and rewarding to master later on.
25. A chainsaw/chainsaw mill/big trees to make your own lumber from! I'm doing that now with some English Walnut! Lumber should always be completely free!
26. Left out oscillating multi-tool, a must have.

I got all the above except the track saw. Good luck ! - Paul
 
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bczygan

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I don't know what you want to build, but I'm going to suggest a different approach than most.

Working with wood can start small, and be very satisfying.

You want to set up a shop, and making the racks and cabinets and shelving and jigs and fixtures and accessories needed to organize your shop can be as much fun as creating that work of art coffee table.

Start small and inexpensive. A $30 used import table top drill press will drill holes in wood. A Japanese hand saw can make fine finish cuts on small work pieces. A cheap used Craftsman table saw can be had cheap or even free on CL.

Some old t-shirts for rags, some sandpaper and some cans of stain and finish can give you finishing capability.

You don't need fancy cordless tools. I just picked up a corded drill at a yard sale for $4. A hand screwdriver work just as well as a cordless one, just slower.

Find a good used block plane.

Start acquiring good layout and measuring and hand wood working tools.

Some of the best fun I've had was making racks for my chisels and screwdrivers, with a cheap drill press and some Forstner bits and some 1x2's.

Bill
 

pauls_workshop

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Hi guys. Can someone please explain to me what exactly is the difference between a jointer and a planer.

Sure, imagine a rough cut board to start with on all sides. You would take that guy first to the Jointer and joint a face on it flat. It might take several passes to do so. After the face is flat, then you run it again on one side to make one side flat and perpendicular to 90 degrees of that face. Jointer use is done.

Then you take that guy typically to a table saw and you rip it using the one flat face and the one square edge to make the other edge flat and square too. Last step is you would take it to the Planer and run it through. You run the flat Jointed face against the flat steel base of the Planer and the Planer knives will cut the top face parallel to the bottom face. Then you have two flat faces parallel and two smooth edges perpendicular to either face. A typical question is why use the Jointer to Joint the first flat face and not just use the Planer for that? Well, the Planer won't make the whole face flat - it will simply make the height of the board the same at a given line across the width of the board. If the board is warped or cupped or distorted, it won't be able to make one face perfect as you pass it through. The Jointer will do that, then the Planer can make the other face perfect after the first already is. You really need both for preparing rough wood to finish size. - Paul
 
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SouperGrover

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Feeling truly blessed!

Yesterday I was talking over my plans with my neighbor/close family friend and she told me her husband who had passed used to be a contractor and she still had a bin of his tools in the garage. She pulled out, what for me, was a big treasure chest of gear I had been looking for. You can see my haul in the pic below but here's what it contains

  • Skil 3/4 hp 3"x10" Belt Sander
  • Black & Decker Wizard (only one bit)
  • Black & Decker VP650 Multipurpose Saw (charger but no batteries)
  • *Craftsman charging base (no battery or tools)
  • Black & Decker 7 1/4" Sawforce 100 Circ Saw w/ a blade (not sure what kind it is)
  • Ryobi S-605D Palm Finishing Sander
  • Porter Cable 12v Cordless Drill w/ battery pack (no charger)
  • *Dewalt Battery Pack (no tools or charger)
  • *Milwaukee 18v charger and battery pack (I have a manual for a Milwaukee sawzall, but no sawzall :( )
  • 2 Mikita Cordless Drills, battery paks and charging stations
  • Level
  • Combo Square
  • Small clamp

The husband passed away over 17 years ago, and I'm not sure how old the tools were at that time. Everything has been plugged in and works. Everything that I can charge, I did and it works. I can't attest to the battery life or quality of the tools as of yet, but I'm itching to get started on some projects now! I'd like to get a Random Orbital sander instead of the Ryobi palm sander, and a router still. Also need some blades and such. But, other than that, I'm ready to go! As these die out, or don't get the job done I will replace them with better quality tools. But for now, it's like I got brand new toys to play with!

* I'm willing to sell these as I have no matching tool for them. Anyone who wants them is welcome to them, just make me a fair offer. I'll list them in the other forum, too. If nobody here wants them I'll put them up on Craigslist

The blessings continued yesterday. The shop currently has a single light in it (from the garage door opener) and I'm looking to hang some additional lighting. Was talking to a different neighbor and he says he has some florescent lights he was going to put up but never did and he will give them to me!
 

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SouperGrover

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@Everyone Thanks so much for all of your replies. I'm building a very fleshed out idea of what I will be putting in and when. I still don't have a good idea of what kind of saw blades I should be buying as far as teeth count/config and what they are made of. I don't want to ask the guy at the parts counter of the big box store. He already steered me wrong on my jig saw blades and I tore up some plywood more than I wanted to. Thankfully it just got covered with cloth, but it was ugly and I don't trust him now. Any advice on what to get?

@ahab Thanks for the site. I will definitely start checking there.

@NedNorton Thank you so much for your well thought out post and the research you did just to provide an answer. I will be working with standard stock already milled from Lowes/Home Depot/whoever for now. Once I decide to keep at it, and if I can find the space for it, I will add in the jointer and planar to handle my own milling. Everything will be power/manual hand tools for a little bit. First big machine will be a table saw. And thanks for the tips on power. I am stuck with 120v and a 20amp shared circuit since I live in a townhouse complex.

A neighbor of mine says he fired up an air compressor in his garage and popped the breaker. Not sure of the sizes of air compressors, but we may be banging in nails the good 'ol fashioned way for a while.

@Paul Thank you for that very comprehensive list. I've added a few things to mine now

@Bill I'm with you. My son and I have a couple small starter projects in mind - very basic - for him to learn some techniques and me to knock the rust off. But after that we BUILD the workshop! The storage loft, then a workbench, some jigs, then some portable workstations.. I'm just as excited about that part as anything else!
 

iScream

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Most of the blades will say what they are good for on the packaging. Shouldn't really need to ask anyone at the store.
 

Voi

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I will add in the jointer and planar to handle my own milling.

I haven't read through the entire thread so I'll apologize now if I'm repeating what somebody else has said...

When you get to the point that you're ready to mill your own stock I recommend starting with the planer first. Reason being you can joint on a planer with the aid of a planer sled but you can't plane on a jointer.

Some woodworkers with jointers still use a sled and their planer to face joint large pieces of stock. A very few even edge joint on a planer but I've never seen a picture or a video of such a jig in action. I drew up a few designs for one some years back but never carried through with building it.

As I like to say, if you have both you'll use the jointer more. But if you can only have one the planer is more versatile.

Otherwise, I taught myself woodworking with little more than a circular saw and a homemade track. I never did get a track saw but if you're thinking of one I've heard good things about the tracks from EurekaZone which you can use with any circular saw.
 

jrcampbe

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I think you ought to consider a hand tool shop. For less than the price of a quality cabinet saw, you can have an entire shop set up.

Read "The Anarchists Tool Chest" for a good explanation of the tools you need for high-end furniture building. Many can be had for a song.

You need to:

Break down stock (rip and cross cut panel saws, saw benches you build as your first project)
Dimension stock (marking gauge, jack plane, jointer plane)
Cut joinery (back saws in rip and cross cut, mortising chisels)
Trim joinery such as dovetails (chisels)
Cut rabets and dados (rabet or moving filister plane, plow plane)
Make holes (brace & bit set)
Prepare wood for finishing (smoothing plane, cabinet scraper, spoke shave)
Cut curves (turning saw, you can make your own)
Clamp stuff (workbench you build as your second project)

My friend Mike Siemsen has a two-part video where in the first one he goes to a swap meet and buys good second hand tools and "fettles" them, restoring them to working order. In the second one he starts with this basic hand tool collection and a Home Depot bucket and builds two saw benches and a Nicholson cabinet maker's workbench. All for under about $300.

Table saws are extremely dangerous. And loud. And take up a lot of space. And all they do is break down stock (yes I know, they can also cut rabets and dados). You'll also need a planer, jointer, bandsaw, drill press, and probably a sander.That is a LOT of money and even more workshop space.

Check out the book and Mike's videos. There's a better, safer, cheaper way and it can all fit in a tool chest you build and set next to a 6 foot by 2 foot bench. The best furniture ever made was built this way. Google Duncan Phyfe -- all hand tools.

It's also really fun!

Doing this will make you a "Neanderthal" woodworker. Google for the sawmill creek forum for Neanderthals.

Jim
 
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Voi

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simple explanation - jointer is for edges, a planer is for the face.

And I'll confuse that a bit. A jointer with sufficient width can flatten an edge and an adjoining face on a less than perfect piece of wood. It can also mill that face and edge to be 90* to each other or on a bevel if wanted.

But it cannot make the opposing edges or faces parallel to each other. Well, not without a bit of luck.

Some jointers can also mill rabbets.

A planer then references the already flattened face and make the opposing face parallel, flat and milled to the designated thickness.

Then the flattened edge can be run on the table saw and the opposing edge can be made parallel.
 
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iScream

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simple explanation - jointer is for edges, a planer is for the face.

Sorry but this isn't quite right. A jointer is for producing a flat surface when you don't have one to start with, regardless of edge or face, then producing a flat surface at 90 degrees to the one you just created. A planer is for creating a matching flat surface on the other side of the face and for controlling the thickness of your stock.

-Chris
 
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SouperGrover

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I think you ought to consider a hand tool shop. For less than the price of a quality cabinet saw, you can have an entire shop set up.

Read "The Anarchists Tool Chest" for a good explanation of the tools you need for high-end furniture building. Many can be had for a song.

You need to:

Break down stock (rip and cross cut panel saws, saw benches you build as your first project)
Dimension stock (marking gauge, jack plane, jointer plane)
Cut joinery (back saws in rip and cross cut, mortising chisels)
Trim joinery such as dovetails (chisels)
Cut rabets and dados (rabet or moving filister plane, plow plane)
Make holes (brace & bit set)
Prepare wood for finishing (smoothing plane, cabinet scraper, spoke shave)
Cut curves (turning saw, you can make your own)
Clamp stuff (workbench you build as your second project)

My friend Mike Siemsen has a two-part video where in the first one he goes to a swap meet and buys good second hand tools and "fettles" them, restoring them to working order. In the second one he starts with this basic hand tool collection and a Home Depot bucket and builds two saw benches and a Nicholson cabinet maker's workbench. All for under about $300.

Table saws are extremely dangerous. And loud. And take up a lot of space. And all they do is break down stock (yes I know, they can also cut rabets and dados). You'll also need a planer, jointer, bandsaw, drill press, and probably a sander.That is a LOT of money and even more workshop space.

Check out the book and Mike's videos. There's a better, safer, cheaper way and it can all fit in a tool chest you build and set next to a 6 foot by 2 foot bench. The best furniture ever made was built this way. Google Duncan Phyfe -- all hand tools.

It's also really fun!

Doing this will make you a "Neanderthal" woodworker. Google for the sawmill creek forum for Neanderthals.

Jim

Thanks for the great info! I will definitely check out some of the stuff you listed. There is definitely something very appealing about going "back to basics" at some point in the journey
 

uart

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Last step is you would take it to the Planer and run it through. You run the flat Jointed face against the flat steel base of the Planer and the Planer knives will cut the top face parallel to the bottom face.

A planer then references the already flattened face and make the opposing face parallel, flat and milled to the designated thickness.
Thanks to the above and the others who answered my question. :)

I've never actually seen a planer or a jointer up close, so I was just vaguely aware that they both had rotating blades that somehow worked a bit like my portable (hand) electric plane. I think the above responses make the differences clearer now.

Can I assume from the above descriptions that the jointer "planes" from below the guide and the planer "planes" from above?
 

bczygan

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I think you ought to consider a hand tool shop. For less than the price of a quality cabinet saw, you can have an entire shop set up.

Read "The Anarchists Tool Chest" for a good explanation of the tools you need for high-end furniture building. Many can be had for a song.

You need to:

Break down stock (rip and cross cut panel saws, saw benches you build as your first project)
Dimension stock (marking gauge, jack plane, jointer plane)
Cut joinery (back saws in rip and cross cut, mortising chisels)
Trim joinery such as dovetails (chisels)
Cut rabets and dados (rabet or moving filister plane, plow plane)
Make holes (brace & bit set)
Prepare wood for finishing (smoothing plane, cabinet scraper, spoke shave)
Cut curves (turning saw, you can make your own)
Clamp stuff (workbench you build as your second project)

My friend Mike Siemsen has a two-part video where in the first one he goes to a swap meet and buys good second hand tools and "fettles" them, restoring them to working order. In the second one he starts with this basic hand tool collection and a Home Depot bucket and builds two saw benches and a Nicholson cabinet maker's workbench. All for under about $300.

Table saws are extremely dangerous. And loud. And take up a lot of space. And all they do is break down stock (yes I know, they can also cut rabets and dados). You'll also need a planer, jointer, bandsaw, drill press, and probably a sander.That is a LOT of money and even more workshop space.

Check out the book and Mike's videos. There's a better, safer, cheaper way and it can all fit in a tool chest you build and set next to a 6 foot by 2 foot bench. The best furniture ever made was built this way. Google Duncan Phyfe -- all hand tools.

It's also really fun!

Doing this will make you a "Neanderthal" woodworker. Google for the sawmill creek forum for Neanderthals.

Jim

I love the un-powered side of woodworking, but we do have electricity, even if the OP has a limited amount.

So my approach would be, and is, a balanced approach.

Many people buy all the big power tools and call it done. Others like the neanderthal approach.

I like using electricity where it saves me labor, without ignoring the speed and convenience that hand tools give me.

I once watched a presentation on how to create a ball and claw foot and leg. The presenter was asked how he removed the bulk of the material. His answer was, "I hog it of the best way I can". Power tools have their place for doing this kind of thing.

Acquire both hand and power tools, from the beginning.

Bill
 
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pauls_workshop

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Sorry but this isn't quite right. A jointer is for producing a flat surface when you don't have one to start with, regardless of edge or face, then producing a flat surface at 90 degrees to the one you just created. A planer is for creating a matching flat surface on the other side of the face and for controlling the thickness of your stock.

-Chris

x2 with Chris here. That's what I put in my response above. It is the right way to do it. But Voi also had a great post above, possible to use a sled with a planer to do the first face planing on the Planer instead of the Jointer. Still want the Jointer to do the next edge though. That too could be done with a table saw and a special clamping setup to hold the piece though and cut the first edge after the first flat plane is done. Could do without Jointer completely, but so handy that most want one. - Paul
 

TomB19

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If I was setting up a woodwork shop for small items, I would seriously consider a circular saw, straight edge guide, and a band saw as the primary means to cut wood. You could save a ton of space and have great flexibility.

A miter saw is not necessary, IMO. It's primary use is as a productivity tool for framers. It will not cross-cut as straight as a table saw with a well made sled. Nice to have but not necessary.

A table saw is great for cabinetry.

If space is tight, I'd consider a track saw instead of a table saw.

There are many ways to skin this cat. Be sure you want to get into wood working before you plug up your garage with a table saw and a bunch of stationary tools. You can do a lot with portable tools (track saw) that can store on a shelf.
 
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SouperGrover

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I love the un-powered side of woodworking, but we do have electricity, even if the OP has a limited amount.

So my approach would be, and is, a balanced approach.

Many people buy all the big power tools and call it done. Others like the neanderthal approach.

I like using electricity where it saves me labor, without ignoring the speed and convenience that hand tools give me.

I once watched a presentation on how to create a ball and claw foot and leg. The presenter was asked how he removed the bulk of the material. His answer was, "I hog it of the best way I can". Power tools have their place for doing this kind of thing.

Acquire both hand and power tools, from the beginning.

Bill

This is kinda the way I am leaning. I am a big traditionalist in many ways and love learning historical methods. I will definitely do some projects JUST to learn these techniques. But I also appreciate productivity at times and will be using power tools a lot in the beginning.
 
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SouperGrover

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There are many ways to skin this cat. Be sure you want to get into wood working before you plug up your garage with a table saw and a bunch of stationary tools. You can do a lot with portable tools (track saw) that can store on a shelf.

You nailed it (pun intended). I have a history of going full bore into new hobbies and then getting distracted from them after a while. Because you can do so much with a few tools I want to make sure I'm going to stick with it before investing in the bigger/shiny new stuff.
 

jismay

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I know this will be an unpopular suggestion, but... ShopSmith.

It might not be the best table saw out there, but it will work just fine with a little practice.

On top of that you get a wood lathe, disc sander, drill press, etc.

If you can find one with the bandsaw and jointer add-ons so much the better.

I'm not seeing anything on the LA craigslist right now, but a they pop up all the time. For a relatively compact tool you can really get a lot done.

As I get back into some more serious woodworking I will probably supplement the SS with a decent standalone table saw, but thats mostly just for the convenience of a tilting blade vs a tilting table.
 

coleman10

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 12, 2012
Messages
871
Location
Fort Lauderdale, FL
Feeling truly blessed!

Yesterday I was talking over my plans with my neighbor/close family friend and she told me her husband who had passed used to be a contractor and she still had a bin of his tools in the garage. She pulled out, what for me, was a big treasure chest of gear I had been looking for. You can see my haul in the pic below but here's what it contains

  • Skil 3/4 hp 3"x10" Belt Sander
  • Black & Decker Wizard (only one bit)
  • Black & Decker VP650 Multipurpose Saw (charger but no batteries)
  • *Craftsman charging base (no battery or tools)
  • Black & Decker 7 1/4" Sawforce 100 Circ Saw w/ a blade (not sure what kind it is)
  • Ryobi S-605D Palm Finishing Sander
  • Porter Cable 12v Cordless Drill w/ battery pack (no charger)
  • *Dewalt Battery Pack (no tools or charger)
  • *Milwaukee 18v charger and battery pack (I have a manual for a Milwaukee sawzall, but no sawzall :( )
  • 2 Mikita Cordless Drills, battery paks and charging stations
  • Level
  • Combo Square
  • Small clamp

The husband passed away over 17 years ago, and I'm not sure how old the tools were at that time. Everything has been plugged in and works. Everything that I can charge, I did and it works. I can't attest to the battery life or quality of the tools as of yet, but I'm itching to get started on some projects now! I'd like to get a Random Orbital sander instead of the Ryobi palm sander, and a router still. Also need some blades and such. But, other than that, I'm ready to go! As these die out, or don't get the job done I will replace them with better quality tools. But for now, it's like I got brand new toys to play with!

* I'm willing to sell these as I have no matching tool for them. Anyone who wants them is welcome to them, just make me a fair offer. I'll list them in the other forum, too. If nobody here wants them I'll put them up on Craigslist

The blessings continued yesterday. The shop currently has a single light in it (from the garage door opener) and I'm looking to hang some additional lighting. Was talking to a different neighbor and he says he has some florescent lights he was going to put up but never did and he will give them to me!

Wow. Very cool. You have some very nice neighbors!
 
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