Need advice with reusing metal building

[Illiumrider]

Hello all, longtime reader here. Been researching a roughly 40x60 on here for quite some time, wanting a general auto/metalworking space with a separate walled off area for woodworking shop.

long story short- I have a chance to disassemble and have for free an existing metal building. Right now it’s 60’ wide clear span x 75’ long. Heavy steel beams are every 15’ so I would likely only use 60x60 . My thought is to strip and discard roof tin and siding tin, then unbolt the building and transport to my home. Roof Purlins are every 4’. It’s in great shape. I have the means with equipment- lifts, lulls, trailers etc to make it happen with a contacting business.

im looking at price—-seeing turn key kits that need to be assembled but include everything....

Vs purchasing insulation, metal roofing and siding etc and reinstalling what I have. Seems worth it??!

trying to figure out best insulation too for upstate ny. Hot summers and cold winters. Some new metal roof comes with rigid foam attached to the bottom, any good?

thank you for any thoughts
Dave

 

[nadogail]

Without seeing the standing building; I will not open my mouth and stick a foot in it.

 

[The Cobbler]

If you need permits, you may be asked for engineers drawings & stamps for the structure

 

[readhead]

Would you have to permit the building?

 

[Illiumrider]

I would permit the building, but it’s a small town. Going to call a PE friend tomorrow to get a cost of drawings/ stamped as builts including foundation spec, anchor bolts etc.

the building is pretty nice. Family biz has the contract to clear the site of buildings for development. Will try to post pictures tomorrow. Really is too nice to scrap.

But I’m trying to figure out costs of what else I will need. Was originally going to build wood but lumber costs are crazy

 

[readhead]

Having a structural engineer back into recreating the reactions for the frame could get pretty expensive and depending on how old the building is you could spend a lot of money and not have it meet current codes.
As far as what you will need. All new sheet metal, trim, closures, butyl tape, screws, insulation, doors and windows. I would also replace all of the A325 structural bolts because you have no idea if they were over torqued when installed.

 

[jack stand]

My only caution would be that the roof & wall metal will not be the same guage or profile as your local "barn metal" guy can run off. The spans between steel framing are much longer, you mentioned 4'.
Right now (around here) the "regular" 9" on center ribs - 29ga. is $3.79 the last time I checked. I haven't a clue on the cost of this "commercial" material.
Just some budgeting considerations to explore before you junk the tin. You could also add purlins and wall girts so that you can use 29ga., but there's matching the existing steel if you can.
Sometimes free isn't as free as we think. Good luck and follow up with a thread.

 

[dcg9381]

Best insulation IMHO is using foam. It does things through expansion that other insulations cannot do. It's also the most expensive.

I assume this structure is bolt up? From what I understand, most of the bolt up structures were engineered. Running that down might be hard.. And I'm not clear on what it takes to get an engineer's stamp after the fact without some pretty decent costs.

When I built my 40x60, the costs were split pretty evenly between the cost of the foundation, the cost of the building, and the cost of labor to erect the building. I know building prices have gone up dramatically, but if you're going to hire some help to tear down and re-install, I'd run the math first..

 

[billconner]

Do you know who manufactured the existing building? Are they still in business and have you tried askingf or the original plans? Even at a price probably worth it. Is it in an area with similar snow and wind loads to where you would erect it? With 6 bents (frames) now for 75' on 15' centers, even look at reinstalling at 12' spacing.

 

[930dreamer]

I'm in the slow process of rehabbing a 1950's 40'x80' shop, for what my shop needs it would be cheaper to build a new one. Save all the old metal and post some pics.

 

[bradpac]

If it's a bolt up and in good shape, and you have the means, I would do it in a heart beat. Heavy steel right now is expensive and prices are still going up. I do agree with new metal at least for the roof It can be hard chasing the holes and getting every sheet put back into the exact same spot.

 

[Illiumrider]

I appreciate all the advice and comments. Although it seems like a good thought, I’m just not that familiar with metal buildings- all the details, trim, flashing and getting it weathertight and insulated. For the size I need and how I want to finish the inside...So I am going to pass on it. If it was going to be unheated storage it might be feasible. Looks like I’ll give it a year or two for lumber to hopefully come down, and keep on reading on here.

thank you all again

 

[readhead]

Wise choice. When we remove metal buildings they usually go to the scrap yard unless someone can use it in a non permited county.

 

[LeahRoberts]

I use styrofoam and special glue.This is of course for wall insulation,and less heat consumption in the house.It also helps in the summer,full insulation allows you to sit in the house without air conditioning when it's +40 outside)

 

[472scout]

What would a building supplier knock off for a building kit without the frame? 20%, 30%?

 

[FMB4]

I too agree that passing on it is the best idea. The work required to dissemble it, haul it, permit it (if req'd), and then erecting it makes it less than ideal. This is not to mention that it might not 'bolt right together' due to previous ground settling over time.

 

[WNYflyer]

Wise choice. When we remove metal buildings they usually go to the scrap yard unless someone can use it in a non permited county.

^^^ Yup,
As a structural engineer our company would typically in a nice politically correct way say thanks but no thanks to trying to evaluate an existing pre-engineered steel building. Typically just not worth the required re-engineering expenditure and mostly likely still wouldn't end up where we would want to be for a PE to be able to sign off on the re-evaluation not to mention things found that wouldn't meet the current codes.

 

[tstaude]

a friend of mine did a 50x100 in the same manner you are talking about.
The local building inspector was good with them 'putting it back up the same as it was originally assembled.'