Need Advice4HOT!&cold insulation project...

[BeemerBarn]

Hi folks!
I am a new member since a while but did not post much yet.

Actually trying to collect some smart advice concerning a project of mine to properly insulate my thermically challenged workshop/garage/garden house.

So below this text I am going to share a document I wrote recently showing my project and its issues that I am sending to various interlocutors in order to decide & strategize my next move.

Thanks for reading and share your thoughts.

General Site

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/37435835@N00/6839172767/" title="WorkshopSkyView_18 by fredoroid, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7147/6839172767_f9d26b8137.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="WorkshopSkyView_18"></a>

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Hello!

Please excuse my English if it's a bit difficult to follow, I am new to the US...
in addition to that my problem involve few different parameters that I will try to cover simultaneously in my explanation.

My workshop is based near Pasadena, CA, 15 minutes from Los Angeles and I would like to insulate primarily from summer heat as well as insulate to keep the heat inside for a longer period of time when I use my gas convection heater during winter...mostly at night in Southern California. Lowest outdoor nighttime temperature though rare in winter can reach 33F and the highest in September can reach 110F for a day or two.

I have been browsing your website (Insul4less) for a few weeks and I need precise & somehow customized information regarding the most appropriate way to install any of your products that you could recommend me.

My workshop is built directly on a concrete slab that is not insulated. Its size is equal to a 2.5 car garage, half of which has a dropped ceiling (see all attached photos) to allow an office area right under the roof and an access to the non-dropped ceiling used as a storage space. Therefore, in terms of usable space, it's more like a 5-car garage in volume from the ground to the roof, all the space is utilized.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/37435835@N00/6839172541/" title="WorkshopExternal_19 by fredoroid, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7030/6839172541_5ce4034c5a_m.jpg" width="180" height="240" alt="WorkshopExternal_19"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/37435835@N00/6839172613/" title="WorkshopExternal_21 by fredoroid, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7033/6839172613_dbe0d09389_m.jpg" width="180" height="240" alt="WorkshopExternal_21"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/37435835@N00/6839172677/" title="WorkshopExternal_22 by fredoroid, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7023/6839172677_80dea6eee9.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="WorkshopExternal_22"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/37435835@N00/6839171173/" title="Gambrel by fredoroid, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7011/6839171173_8fce6b245e_m.jpg" width="240" height="180" alt="Gambrel"></a>

The Gambrel shaped roof is not at all vented. There is, however, one large Velux window on the north side and one small Velux window on the south side as you can see on the attached pictures. These are framed in the roof structure and there is no venting between the beams. If I understand the installation of your product correctly (Prodex radiant etc), it is necessary to have an air gap between your insulation and the roof. So, I'm wondering, does the type of roof that I have with this incline not allow this kind of air flow even if I drill holes between the beams to direct the air flow (exhaust) toward the Velux window frames? With these parameters in mind, would any of your products or its installation specifications be suitable for what I want to accomplish against both extremes of hot and cold?

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/37435835@N00/6839172707/" title="WorkshopExternal_23 by fredoroid, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7171/6839172707_7c7487c629.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="WorkshopExternal_23"></a>

I am trying to find any smart solution's to avoid installing an AC system specially to maintain reasonable temperature in the workspace under the roof. As you can see in the picture maybe the only good part is that I have a lot of fresh intake from Velux to French doors and Dutch garage doors. But there are two main issues that I hope you will integrate in your advice. The first one is the lack of bottom to top ventilation under my roof next to the 2 Velux windows. My second concern is that I need the insulation to be completely contained in the space that is in between the roof beams because I am going to walk and work often under the roof. If you think I would need to add fiberglass or insulation panels on top of your product for insulating heat in the winter, it would need to be done in a way that will not be obtrusive...preferably in the 16-inch wide space between the beams. The depth varies from 12.5 in. at the top of the Gambrel roof to 7.5 in. further down, and 5.5 in. in the steepest side of the Gambrel roof (north & south sides).

Once all will be insulated I am planning to use some thin drywall sheet over the roof beams.. or use panels like these: (click on me)

Finally, the roofing material is made of shingles.

Please see attached photos for further information. Thank you in advance for your assistance.

Cheers!

Frederic

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/37435835@N00/6839172497/" title="LightWell_17 by fredoroid, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7028/6839172497_ea6ebc3421.jpg" width="500" height="373" alt="LightWell_17"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/37435835@N00/6839172225/" title="LargeVelux_16 by fredoroid, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7020/6839172225_99920013d3.jpg" width="373" height="500" alt="LargeVelux_16"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/37435835@N00/6839171855/" title="LargeVelux_14 by fredoroid, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7150/6839171855_d0d9a9bb95.jpg" width="372" height="500" alt="LargeVelux_14"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/37435835@N00/6839171483/" title="GeneralView_12 by fredoroid, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7164/6839171483_0b8c7555f6.jpg" width="500" height="372" alt="GeneralView_12"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/37435835@N00/6839171125/" title="ComputerDesk_15 by fredoroid, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7034/6839171125_d9481e32b6.jpg" width="500" height="374" alt="ComputerDesk_15"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/37435835@N00/6839170785/" title="BelowRoofOffice_13 by fredoroid, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7160/6839170785_32e51b1d86.jpg" width="500" height="374" alt="BelowRoofOffice_13"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/37435835@N00/6839170345/" title="BelowRoofEast&SouthWalls_8 by fredoroid, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7155/6839170345_91372d25b1.jpg" width="500" height="374" alt="BelowRoofEast&SouthWalls_8"></a>

 

[regguy1]

Hello,

What a post, you've got quite a place there!

 

[barks]

Great building. For 10 yrs in Pasadena and Arcadia, never saw the need to condition the air in the garage/shop. Open or close windows and doors to change temperature. The weather is the only reason to live there.

 

[bd8134]

Nice workshop..
It sounds like you would like to use the loft area above the garage for working.
If like barks says the weather is nice and pleasant you might not need to insulate at all.
Use the doors and windows and maybe a fan.
The roof though will be close to your head and 110F will heat up the roof shingles quite nicely. You could consider closed cell spray foam which will provide a nice insulation barrier and you would not need to worry putting in ventilation in the eaves to the roof peak. The downside would be that foam does cause the shingles to get a little hotter and this could effect their life expectancy / guarentee. Maybe less of any issue in your area due to the max temp. Maybe get some quotes in. Then use drywall as you said, fire-rated is recommended, maybe required in your town. Do the same for the end walls in your last picture. 5/8 is slightly stronger, maybe better for a ceiling and slightly better for noise, insulation etc. This would stop a lot if not most of the radiated heat / heat loss.
Use which method of insulation works best for the downstairs walls. Spray, batts, roll etc, then drywall over, use fire rated. You also need to observe what is recommended for vapor retarders / moisture control. For your area this might be required on the warm side, ie outside wall, pretty difficult as they have already framed. Get some advice from the town planning on that one. Be carefull what you show the town upstairs in your workshop area. They might have minimum height restrictions if you say you want to use it as a workshop. The stairs also have to be to a set standard etc. Just say that it is for storage and you want to keep stuff up there that does not get damaged by extreme heat or cold.
Let us know how you get on.

 

[BeemerBarn]

Thanks RedGuy! And Yes Barks! totally right about weather being the only reason to live there... it is quite true.

Thanks bd8134 I am evaluating all options at this time and any ideas will be welcome. including yours .

What do you guys think of those recommendations I gathered recently ?

1. I would use only the OSB with foil on both sides as a ceiling finish. I would not fill the space above with any fiberglass insulation. Instead, I would leave it open and set up a system of ventilation for air to flow through the open spaces.

2. Fill the bays with R19 insulation, stapled to the underside of the rafters. Cover the underside of the rafters with 5/8" drywall at a level 3 surface finish (seems are taped, mudded, and finished), then paint the ceiling a nice flat white to help distribute light.

3. White coating on your roof shingles for summer and a good mix of R-rated fiber wool with well installed, well finished & well painted drywall on top.


My primary concern in this project is to cool down the temps under the roof during summer in order to protect the stuff stored there then keep some warmth during the few cold winter nights we have per year in Los Angeles.... but that's all.... I mean LA is built on a desert not an Iceberg.

Thanks to share your ideas
Cheers!
Fred

PS: Oh lord! that is hard to come up with a real plan when you know just few drops about insulation...