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Need advices on using deck block for a metal shed

Fredartic

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Joined
Mar 27, 2007
Messages
283
Location
Ste-Sophie, Quebec
Hi, I plan to install a Arrow Commander metal shed in the yard to get more storage: a 10 x 30 using 2 sheds of 10 x 15. I want to use deck block with 4 x 4 on it for leveling. I plan to put 2 x 4, 12" center to center, instead of 16" with 2 x 6. Problem is I don't know how to do the frame on the lenght of 30'; I can't imagine to buy a 30' lenght of lumber... any advices on how to do the frame? Thanks
 
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tjdux

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Feb 4, 2014
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801
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Southern Nebraska
16 ft cut down to 15 length then half lap joint two of them together and you now have a 30ft 2x4.

With good clamping and high quality glue (tightbond poly should work) and wood dowels for fastening it shouldn't even be a weak spot.

But still if i was doing it i would space the joint over a low stress area.

Also there may be other solutions such as offsetting the wood or buying metal tubing.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
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p_mori7

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Mar 23, 2010
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3,340
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Montreal, QC., Canada
Fred, I would not use Deck-Blocs. In a few years, some will sink more than others and will leave some low spots or unsupported spots in the floor of your shed.

What you use for a foundation will be determined by how high above grade (or how close to grade) you want the floor of your shed to be.

Personally, I like the floor of the shed to be as close to the ground as possible.

If it were me, I would dig 3 trenches, parallel to each other, about 12" inches wide by 30' feet long and at least 12" deep. The first one being right on the centerline of your shed, and the other 2 being exactly 5' away on either side.

I would then fill those trenches with about 8" of compacted 0-3/4" gravel.

I would then lay some 6x6 or 8x8 creosote treated (cheap alternative Used Motor Oil) Hemlock beams in the trenches making sure to level them perfectly with a string line or a laser. The beams should be 10' long (very heavy) and can be joined together by nailing 8' 2x6 or 2x8 boards to either side. OR, you could build some forms out of 2x6 and fill with concrete.

I would then lay 2x6's perpendicular to the beams to construct my floor and use a 2x6 skirt board all the way around. You could use standard 96" 2x6's and overlap them along the centerline beam. Spacing of the 2x6's will depend on what you will be putting in the shed. If it will be heavily loaded, 12" on center. Otherwise 16" on center.

Some wire mesh stapled to the outside and buried 12" into the ground will prevent critters from making nests under your shed.

You should be able to get the beams for a pretty affordable price at Scierie Ste-Sophie on Hwy 158.

~Phil.
 
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Fredartic

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Mar 27, 2007
Messages
283
Location
Ste-Sophie, Quebec
Thank you for your advices. The point is that here it is very rocky and digging is a pain. Also, we have used deck blocks for our decks and they didn't move; they were made in 2003... But I'll consider to check at Scierie Ste-Sophie that is very close of my home.
 

gungatim

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Jan 8, 2013
Messages
8,101
Location
west mich
I've used deck blocks and love them. by design they don't sink, they "float" evenly across the ground. I have a large deer blind set into a hill cantilevered on them and it hasn't moved a bit. same with my pool deck which is under the pool lip, no lift, sag, or unevenness. I did a 12x12 shed with regular cinder blocks and they sunk in a few years so I had to go back and jack it up and used the deck blocks and they fixed the problem...

for the 10x30, why not use 10' sections horizontally. I believe the mfgr. recommends 2x6's at 4' intervals. that would be 8 runs of 10', plus you need to box the perimeter and use blocking. basically you are building a 10x30 floating deck, minus the top boards...
 
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