Need advise for garage insulation

[jules-57]

Hello all, this is my first post, and I could use some advise.

I built my stand-alone garage in 2005. It is 26x30 with 3 bays, a room above bay 2 and 3, with bay 1 open to the ceiling. Drywall is in place throughout. I did not have the funds to insulate at the time and wish to do so now since I'm tired of freezing in the winter. The first bay is stick truss and the 2nd and 3rd is scissor truss with 5' knee walls and 7'6" ceiling. I am striking out with insulation people. Some think they can spray above the ceiling in the first bay (no air flow, right?) and others want to blow cellulose. Any ideas? Btw, this is stage 1 and I will add heat after the insulation. Also, at this point, I'm ready to pull the drywall above bay 1 10x26, insulate, then have someone come in to re-drywall the ceiling, if all else fails.

Thank you for any help.

 

[tomroblee]

The first bay is stick truss and the 2nd and 3rd is scissor truss with 5' knee walls and 7'6" ceiling.[HTML]

I'm confused.   What is a "stick truss"?     How can you have scissor trusses with a room above?

Is your garage vented?   If so, how?  (Do you have soffit vents, ridge vents or ????)

I just guessing that your room above may be some sort of attic truss.   Do you want it so be in the heater or unheated area?    How do you access the room above?  (if the entrance to your room above is a huge hole in the insulated ceiling, you will have a problem.)  

What is your location and how to you plan to heat the garage (24/7 or just a few hours a month.)

I doubt that there will be an easy solution, but we need so base information to think about.

 

[jules-57]

The first bay is stick truss and the 2nd and 3rd is scissor truss with 5' knee walls and 7'6" ceiling.[HTML]

I'm confused.   What is a "stick truss"?     How can you have scissor trusses with a room above?

Is your garage vented?   If so, how?  (Do you have soffit vents, ridge vents or ????)

I just guessing that your room above may be some sort of attic truss.   Do you want it so be in the heater or unheated area?    How do you access the room above?  (if the entrance to your room above is a huge hole in the insulated ceiling, you will have a problem.)  

What is your location and how to you plan to heat the garage (24/7 or just a few hours a month.)

I doubt that there will be an easy solution, but we need so base information to think about.[/QUOTE]


I should have said over the 2nd and 3rd bay, [URL="https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/trusses-i-joists-engineered-lumber/roof-trusses/24-gable-room-in-attic-residential-roof-truss-74/p-1444448818714-c-5658.htm?tid=-5454619314911092303&ipos=51"]Gable Room-in-Attic Residential Roof Truss[/URL]

The opening above the 1st bay is just stick built, open to the very top of the garage with drywall on the 2x6s.  And yes, there are soffits. 

The room above is accessed by stairs at the back of the room.  And there is a  "hay loft" as the Amish who built it observed.  I will add a sliding door after the insulation is done.  I wanted to place a big dog heater or something to that affect in the corner of the garage - up high - to help heat that area.

Thank you.

 

[jules-57]

btw, just an hour south of you.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Blown in cellulose is one of the most cost effective insulation solutions. You do require a ceiling. As long as the angle of the ceiling is not too severe, the cellulose will stay in place. Some cross bracing between the truss will also help prevent the cellulose from shifting and give you a place to nail the drywall.

 

[jules-57]

Thanks, not sure it will work since the peak is very severe. Looks like the only option will be to remove the drywall, install insulation, then re-drywall the ceiling.

 

[NUTTSGT]

If you pull the drywall, you could replace it with metal after insulation is placed. Metal can easily be removed if necessary in the future then reinstalled. It's also "one and done" with no finish work or dusty mess.

 

[jules-57]

Thank you, that's a thought about the metal.