Need advise on concrete repair

[sickws6]

I have some chipping going on and some cracks that are also starting to chip. Any suggestions. Should i rent a saw and cut it out and patch it up?

thanks!

 

[kd3pc]

pics!!!

 

[sickws6]

I'll get some up later


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[sickws6]

Here you can see previous owner tried patching it before.


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[slackdaddy1]

Is that an expansion joint he patched over?
"patched concrete" will always fail (well 99% of the time), a cold bond is just not the same.
If it were mine I would chip grind all the old patch out, if it is an old inadequate expansion joint, I would saw cut it out (1/2" wide), slip something in the sawcut joint (maybe plywood), letting it stick up a few inches. tape a bond breaker to the plywood, then pour back the chiped out concrete with epoxy. after it sets up, pull out the plywood and
pour in some expansion material (Sikaflex?) in the joint.

 

[slackdaddy1]

If that is not an expansion joint, and one is not needed.... I would chip it out and "repatch it" with epoxy, then apply a floor coating over the entire garage.
But bottom line is, and "cement base" patch will have a cold joint that moisture will get into.

 

[sickws6]

There is not an expansion joint. So just chip it all off and grind old patch off then use epoxy? What product you recommend


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[forAK]

I have some chipping going on and some cracks that are also starting to chip. Any suggestions. Should i rent a saw and cut it out and patch it up?

thanks!

Yes. I would rent a saw and cut out a 2' section centered over the shallow rebar. Pin in some new rebar and re-pour. No patch will take care of what you have going on there.

 

[vettex2]

I'd advise you to repair it but I have no advice on how to do it.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

All that patch has to go. Clean the area of all loose material, peen any sharp edges.

Apply a polyurea resin utilizing dry sand as a filler.

http://www.legacyindustrial.net/pro...atings/xtreme-set-100-crack-joint-filler.html


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[mm08822]

Yes that is rebar that was too high in the initial pour, it rusted over time and blew out the concrete above and around it.

Straight and square saw cut the affected area and remove. Take out an extra 3-6" past the damaged areas to get into solid uncompromised concrete.

Drill 3/4"holes in to the fresh sawcut surface at mid-depth of slab and put in 1/2" x 12" rebar pins with 6" sticking out into removed area. Make a portland paste to act as a grout to lock in the rebar into holes. Place every 18"-24". Maybe do same thing to other side of cutout area or consider expansion joint - really depends on how much is cut out and how big original area is. Pictures don't show entire area.

Add 6-6-10-10 mesh and tie into rebar pins. Overlap any mesh joints by 2 squares.

Pour, compact, screed. A wood float and then steel trowel to finish.

Put down duct tape next to saw cut lines with some 6 mil plastic to keep adjacent surfaces clean from new concrete.

 

[sickws6]

Wow. This forum is amazing. You guys have great knowledge I can tell. The most concrete work I have ever tackled was concreting in a light post in my yard. I will have to do some learning. What does "peen" mean, I'm assuming rounding? I will google it.


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[sickws6]

Do I cut that rebar out? How deep do I go all way down to ground?


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[mm08822]

Easiest way is to saw cut all the way thru and maybe add an extra cut or two within the damaged area. Then break up with sledge hammer and pull out by hand.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Take out that rusty piece of rebar too. Its a hindrance not a helper at this point.

Yes knock off any weak edges with a chipping hammer or a grinder. Narrow edges are weak.

Btw. Polyurea is much more flexible than epoxy, makes a hard but flexible repair.


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[SunsetsAndFriends]

...

 

[sickws6]

Do I need a certain grinder other than my angle grinder? Just use a concrete disc?


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[LegacyIndustrial]

Diamond cup wheel on your angle grinder works well.
All the home centers have them.