I need to drill 8 holes under my trailer... Obv. I cannot use a drill press. I will need to do it all by hand. What is the best way to get it straight and true? It doesn't have to be perfect but I want it to be. Wish it was steel because I could use an electromagnetic drill press.
Need advise!
- Thread starter jhelrey
- Start date
Measure; use a punch, then pilot holes.
regguy1
Well-known member
chevy.stroker
Well-known member
Assuming this is something where hole placements are precise then:
You can make a pattern, mount it to the trailer, and utilize transfer punches to insure correct alignment.
Cheap transfer punches: http://www.harborfreight.com/28-piece-transfer-punch-set-3577.html
You can make a pattern, mount it to the trailer, and utilize transfer punches to insure correct alignment.
Cheap transfer punches: http://www.harborfreight.com/28-piece-transfer-punch-set-3577.html
wintermute
Well-known member
My corded DeWalt (DW101) has a bubble level on the top/back corner…
It's actually helpful to have. I wish my cordless had one as well.
Horizontal holes in wood from under the trailer? I'm having a hard time picturing that situation. But when I need straight holes in wood and my drill press cannot be used I like to turn to a brace and bit. The old self feeding auger bits are very difficult to drill an angled hole with, they just naturally want to go straight through. Most self feeding bits will seek a straight path, even when driven with a power drill.
If it must be done with a power drill and twist bit then all it takes is a few years of experience and careful attention to the job at hand to get the holes "close enough".
If it must be done with a power drill and twist bit then all it takes is a few years of experience and careful attention to the job at hand to get the holes "close enough".
I dont think anything you have described sounds difficult at all. Take your time, use a punch, hold the drill straight, use sharp bits, and dont use too much pressure (let the drill do the work). Easy day.
If you want to get crazy, drill a straight hole through a deep block of wood or aluminum on the drill press in the size drill bit you will be useing for trailer. Then, use the block of wood as a guide to keep drill straight. Here are steel and wood versions...
Not necessary though, you can drill straight by hand.
Let us know how it turns out..
If you want to get crazy, drill a straight hole through a deep block of wood or aluminum on the drill press in the size drill bit you will be useing for trailer. Then, use the block of wood as a guide to keep drill straight. Here are steel and wood versions...
Not necessary though, you can drill straight by hand.
Let us know how it turns out..
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Under your trailer and 2" solid aluminum ?
wintermute
Well-known member
Here is what happened... I bought a 8.5 x 10 snowmobile trailer with salt shield for $500.00. I looked at the frame and A-frame for the tilt to trailer. The bolts were different sizes so I assumed it was hallowed out. Hence, my lowball offer which was accepted. Upon tearing it apart, the guy shoved a green treated 2x4 in frame and drilled a hole into it for the tilt pivot point.
I was going to use a bushing but I decided this would be more spendy but solid. I bought aluminum solid stock to fit in the rails. I used a drill press to drill the hole and pounded it into place. Measuring a million times. I then placed 4 bolts in it to hold it. It is 8 inches long by 1.75x2.75. On the A-frame itself, I also did the same thing but with one bolt and only 4 inches of stock. I also welded it into place. Used a drill press to make the main hole.
Make sense?
I was going to use a bushing but I decided this would be more spendy but solid. I bought aluminum solid stock to fit in the rails. I used a drill press to drill the hole and pounded it into place. Measuring a million times. I then placed 4 bolts in it to hold it. It is 8 inches long by 1.75x2.75. On the A-frame itself, I also did the same thing but with one bolt and only 4 inches of stock. I also welded it into place. Used a drill press to make the main hole.
Make sense?
strike a poser
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- Nov 17, 2008
- Messages
- 84
What you need is one of these life savers; http://www.drillmate.com.au/drillmate.html To anyone who hasn't used one they are the ****!
Ill second that motion
The only problem I had was the plastic spacer melted a little from the heat of the drilling.bad_idea
Well-known member
If you have a mag base drill handy then clamp a piece of 1/2" steel plate to the trailer and the mag base will stick to that. If clamping is difficult then you can track down some aluminum that is welded to steel and tack that onto the workpiece. I am not sure what it is called, but we routinely use it in ship repair for attaching aluminum deck combing to the steel hull.
I am curious about this drill mate you all are talking about. How does it attach to the work piece? It looks like the foot on the back side of the workpiece and the drill act like a c-clamp. Is there anything to keep it in place if you stop applying pressure to the drill feed? It also looks like it is restricted by the neccisity to access the back side of the area to be drilled. Looks like it would be no good for drilling through a steel bulkhead or deck. Based on your experience with this tool, do you all believe it would be useful in a ship repair environment? Sorry to hijack your thread, but this tool is interesting to me.
I am curious about this drill mate you all are talking about. How does it attach to the work piece? It looks like the foot on the back side of the workpiece and the drill act like a c-clamp. Is there anything to keep it in place if you stop applying pressure to the drill feed? It also looks like it is restricted by the neccisity to access the back side of the area to be drilled. Looks like it would be no good for drilling through a steel bulkhead or deck. Based on your experience with this tool, do you all believe it would be useful in a ship repair environment? Sorry to hijack your thread, but this tool is interesting to me.
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strike a poser
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- Nov 17, 2008
- Messages
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You are right, access to the back side of the work is required for this to work. As far as the mention of keeping it in place w/o feed, I don't have trouble with this most of the things I've used it on it didn't matter and the unit is pretty light.