Need Block Grinder 10 Step Addiction Program!

[seagiant]

Hi,
Well, picked up another Block Grinder!

It's a 1/2 HP and looks to have all the goodies on it.

The shields, light, trough, rests, runs great but bearings are shot, normal from my experience.

A little rough, but that is te least problem anyway.

Paid $40 for it, tried to get it for less, but PO was firm on it, and it was a 1/2 HP, and complete, so I got it.

I have a 1/4 HP, and a 1/3 HP, so I'm working my way up I guess!

 

[seagiant]

Hi,
Well, the label on the front with most of the Model info was faded out.

Pulled the Bearings and the name was so small still could not see it with the Opti-Visors...

Was able to see a "503", but when I ran that on a WEB Search nothing came up except a needle bearing...No good!

At that point, just measured the Bearing converted to Metric( 17mmx40mmx12mm) and it came right up as a Timkin 6203-ZZ which is doubled shielded like the OEM.

Never did find out who made the 503, was not a New Departure Bearing, though!

Bearings ordered, and were on our way!

 

[Provincial]

From the MRC handbook:

204SZZ Standard MRC part no.
A four digit manufacturing suffix is used by MRC internally to define bearing specifications as well as to track such information as plant-of-manufacture as product is distributed throughout the MRC warehousing network. This suffix is assigned sequentially within the MRC computer system and can only be cross-referenced internally by the MRC Customer Service Representative.

H501 Manufacturing suffix
The standard MRC part number is sufficient for specifying customer requirements for all “stock” sizes. The use of a non-descriptive manufacturing suffix permits minor changes to the design and manufacture of standard product without a confusing nomenclature change. The revised product may still be tracked through distribution by the four digit manufacturing suffix.

 

[seagiant]

From the MRC handbook:

204SZZ Standard MRC part no.
A four digit manufacturing suffix is used by MRC internally to define bearing specifications as well as to track such information as plant-of-manufacture as product is distributed throughout the MRC warehousing network. This suffix is assigned sequentially within the MRC computer system and can only be cross-referenced internally by the MRC Customer Service Representative.

H501 Manufacturing suffix
The standard MRC part number is sufficient for specifying customer requirements for all “stock” sizes. The use of a non-descriptive manufacturing suffix permits minor changes to the design and manufacture of standard product without a confusing nomenclature change. The revised product may still be tracked through distribution by the four digit manufacturing suffix.

Hi,
Thanks, not sure really what all that means?

Looked up a 204SZZ Bearing, and that does not fit my Grinder.

I have the right Bearing, because I measured the old ones.

Surprising that I could not find the info.

Bearings should be here tomorrow, expecting no problems.

Thanks again!

 

[FrankLee]

OEM bearings may be NSK?

Replacement Bearing List - Sears Craftsman/Companion/Dunlap/Fulton/Kenmore Machinery - VintageMachinery.org Knowledge Base (Wiki)

wiki.vintagemachinery.org

 

[Provincial]

My post just explained why there could be a number containing "503" on your bearing. MRC used codes in addition to the bearing number to track minor changes requested by a customer. These were in addition to the regular bearing number marked on the race.

Your old bearing may have had a number containing 6203, or perhaps just 203. These indicate single-row, deep groove ball bearings in metric sizes, using industry standard numbers. Not all manufacturers use these numbers to identify their bearings.

 

[seagiant]

Hi,
Well, I know different companies make the same numbered/size/type Bearing.

I'm sure SKS, Timken, PGN, NSK,all make a basic bearing such as the 6203-ZZ...

A Timkin was available and that was what I chose, 2 Bearings were $12 shipped and I can handle that!

Thanks for the help! (and education!)

 

[seagiant]

Hi,
Here it is, from Franklee's List! (Thanks Frank!)

This also tells me the Model Number of the Grinder as my ID Label is faded out!!!

Craftsman 397.19391¶​

• Original Bearings: NDH 7503 (double shield)
• Accurate Replacement: 6203 (double shield)

​

 

[FrankLee]

This also tells me the Model Number of the Grinder as my ID Label is faded out!!!

Not necessarily. The 397 prefix is the manufacturer code for Delco.

That model number was the only 397 model listed on the VM Wiki page. There are MANY 397 models and many of those likely share the same bearing.
http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgIndex/detail.aspx?id=222&tab=4&sort=2&th=false&fl=Grinder, Bench
http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgIndex/detail.aspx?id=222&tab=3&sort=3&th=false&fl=Grinder

You may be able to see the model number in a reflection of light on your label.

 

[seagiant]

Not necessarily. The 397 prefix is the manufacturer code for Delco.

That model number was the only 397 model listed on the VM Wiki page. There are MANY 397 models and many of those likely share the same bearing.
http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgIndex/detail.aspx?id=222&tab=4&sort=2&th=false&fl=Grinder, Bench
http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgIndex/detail.aspx?id=222&tab=3&sort=3&th=false&fl=Grinder

You may be able to see the model number in a reflection of light on your label.

Hi,
Well, it gave me more than I had, and I was able to get a Manual for it, which is more than I had, this looks pretty much like mine, and probably close enough!

Thanks again!

 

[seagiant]

Hi,
Ta-Da!!!

 

[seagiant]

Hi,
The finished product, runs smooth as silk!

Decided against the Guards, as I use glasses, or a full face shield!

 

[searman]

@seagiant Did you need a hydraulic press to remove the old and install the new bearings? If not, how did you do it? I'm working on a 1/2 HP model 397.19430 that looks identical to yours.

 

[seagiant]

Hi,
No, pretty easy...

If you do not have a vise or puller just cut off the old bearing and then get a piece of pipe that matches the INSIDE Race and pap it on, it will go on easy.

Not the right size pipe available?

Drill a hole in a block of wood or steel just bigger than the shaft, then a piece of pipe against that and tap it on.

You just need support for that inside Race!