Need Drill Press chuck upgrade recommendation

[tarmy]

I have a Jet J2550 20 inch drill press. I use it a fair amount for basic drilling up to 1" holes ( w/ pilot holes as appropriate ) in hot rolled steel mostly. It's main function is mostly milling stuff I weld up for projects around here.

I want to upgrade to a keyless chuck ( I think) or at the very least something better than the factory piece of **** that came with it.

It is a 5/8" chuck with a 3MT spindle taper.

I have looked at the Jacobs and Albrecht...and am going that way unless somebody here thinks I am missing something.

 

[paulsomlo]

I have a Jacobs keyless on my drill press and it's worked very well. They're made in Spain and probably quite a bit cheaper than an Albrecht.

 

[larry_g]

It sounds to me like you doing more rough work than fine. I would suggest that you get a good Jacobs keyed superchuck for the big stuff and a second good keyless chuck for when your doing the more precise work. When you get into the big work and some chattering you can tear up a keyless chuck whereas a keyed chuck will tolerate it better.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[Ed ke6bnl]

It sounds to me like you doing more rough work than fine. I would suggest that you get a good Jacobs keyed superchuck for the big stuff and a second good keyless chuck for when your doing the more precise work. When you get into the big work and some chattering you can tear up a keyless chuck whereas a keyed chuck will tolerate it better.

lg
no neat sig line

Thats what I am doing keyless 1/2 chuck for daily use and a ball bearing Jacobs 5/8 chuck for bigger stuff

 

[Davefr]

Get an Albrecht but I'd look at Ebay. Even if you have to replace the jaws they'll likely come out way cheaper then new.

 

[tarmy]

It sounds to me like you doing more rough work than fine. I would suggest that you get a good Jacobs keyed superchuck for the big stuff and a second good keyless chuck for when your doing the more precise work. When you get into the big work and some chattering you can tear up a keyless chuck whereas a keyed chuck will tolerate it better.

lg
no neat sig line

I had not thought of the two chuck solution...excellent idea and seems like the answer to my concern. I was worried that the big drill bits could catch and destroy an expensive keyless. I am doing mostly rough work...so you are making the perfect recommendation...

With your and other comments suggesting the two chuck approach...I was thinking of the 5/8" Jacobs ball bearing...and probably Jacobs 1/2 keyless...

Thanks guys....why I love GJ....

 

[larry_g]

.

With your and other comments suggesting the two chuck approach...I was thinking of the 5/8" Jacobs ball bearing...and probably Jacobs 1/2 keyless...

Thanks guys....why I love GJ....

Actually the two drill press approach is what I was thinking.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[pcmeiners]

Careful with Jacobs keyed chucks...
The new ones, laser etched are made in china, prone to breakage (improper hardening); the older stock has lettering stamped into the chuck (USA made). Picked up a few chucks from Ebay, new but old stock, not cheap. Generally they show the chuck and box, generally the Chinese imports have made in china on the box. Also noticed, listings within major cities are generally Chinese or high priced.

 

[tarmy]

Careful with Jacobs keyed chucks...
The new ones, laser etched are made in china, prone to breakage (improper hardening); the older stock has lettering stamped into the chuck (USA made). Picked up a few chucks from Ebay, new but old stock, not cheap. Generally they show the chuck and box, generally the Chinese imports have made in china on the box. Also noticed, listings within major cities are generally Chinese or high priced.

I was looking at the Jacobs chucks on Amazon ( I have been getting tools there as I know I can always return items and never have any hassle...plus usually the prices are competitive).

Any idea or way to tell on any of the online places....I guess I could call the supplier to see if they know the source country...or is there a item or code number to look for or avoid?

 

[MotoDave]

That drill press really isn't powerful enough to be drilling 1" holes in anything thick ... then again who hasn't pushed the rating of our machines once in a while (myself included).

Look to put together a set of core drill bits (Link for examples) with a MT3 shank, and take the drill chuck out of the equation. Core drill bits have the right geometry for following a pre-drilled hole, and will cut easier than a 2 flute twist drill.

My general method is to center punch, spot drill, then go right at it with a SHARP 1/2" bit (with a MT3 shank, or in the drill chuck). Then step up through core drills, making sure youre really getting a good chip and not just rubbing away.

If the belt slips of motor stalls, you know where your limit is

If you're drilling thinner stock (1/4") you could look at an annular cutter, they arent cheap in big sizes though.

 

[tarmy]

That drill press really isn't powerful enough to be drilling 1" holes in anything thick ... then again who hasn't pushed the rating of our machines once in a while (myself included).

Look to put together a set of core drill bits (Link for examples) with a MT3 shank, and take the drill chuck out of the equation. Core drill bits have the right geometry for following a pre-drilled hole, and will cut easier than a 2 flute twist drill.

My general method is to center punch, spot drill, then go right at it with a SHARP 1/2" bit (with a MT3 shank, or in the drill chuck). Then step up through core drills, making sure youre really getting a good chip and not just rubbing away.

If the belt slips of motor stalls, you know where your limit is

If you're drilling thinner stock (1/4") you could look at an annular cutter, they arent cheap in big sizes though.

Interesting...I am intrigued by the core drill idea...did some research on them...and will try a couple. If I interpret this correctly, I could get the core drill ( 4 flutes vs. 2 for a normal twist drill) and use them with a good (upgraded) chuck and achieve the prime goal of drilling holes in thicker material with my press.

I actually ordered a annular cutter set and didn't even use them as they looked flimsy...maybe I was uninformed as to their ability to take a beating...returned em.

Thanks for the tip...

 

[MotoDave]

Seriously, look into taper shank drill bits, you'll like them.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

My Dayton 29 inch drill press came with a cheesy asian made chuck. I bought a Jacobs 18N with the arbor installed on it for about $60 on Ebay several years ago. It was a nearly new chuck and it did not run straight. I was also not able to separate the arbor off of it. I took it to work and gave it to our machinists and they chilled the arbor with liquid nitrogen and it fell out. Cleaned it up and refitted it and checked the runout at something like a half a thousandth. I reinstalled it and it runs true.

If your spindle has a female 3MT in it then it has a slot for a Drill Drift. They are fairly cheap and you will need one.

Charles

 

[tedsters]

I got a 18N jacobs super chuck its older one made in the usa. on my 20in clausing its a great chuck does anything i want to do

 

[nickelTwin]

I have a 16n and 18n jacobs superchuck made in USA. I also have 1/2" albrecht and the Jacobs high precision keyless chuck made in spain. They all work really well.

Also be aware that the albrecht and the jacobs keyless should not be used for tapping threads as they may loosen running back out. I always use the superchucks for tapping.

 

[Packard V8]

MotoDave's two posts are good suggestions and better. As has been previously mentioned, using large twist drills in a chuck is just bad science. Most production DPs won't even have a chuck. You have the Morse taper which is stronger, more accurate and totally avoids having a drill shank spin in the chuck. Use MT drills and/or core drills. You'll be glad you did.

FWIW, I find most of my MT bits at garage sales or on craigslist and sharpen them myself.

Since MT drills come in specific size ranges, #1 up to 1/2", #2 from 1/2-3/4" and #3 is 3/4-1", you'll need the readily available 3-2 and 2-1 adapters to use the smaller drills.

jack vines

 

[pcmeiners]

"Any idea or way to tell on any of the online places.."
Many online sellers will tell you where it is made in the advertisement. Ebay is your best bet, otherwise prices are ridiculous. Even on Ebay it is sometimes difficult to tell if laser or stamped, but if the pictures are clear, easy to tell. As far as I know, no laser etched chucks are US made. "used" chucks are OK, I purchased a few but made sure of no scratches/marring..basically chuck sat in a drawer, so they are new with stains.

 

[stock z/28]

I would have to agree that if your drill press has a No 3 taper I would use tapered bits for larger holes.

Personally I would use No 2 taper bits in in the 1/2" or so range with adapter sleeves as they are generally easier (and cheaper) to find used.

Even though I have quite a few smaller No 1 taper bits I rarely use them, and generally use a straight shank bit with a good chuck.

I have several gear driven presses that I use daily and I almost always use Morse Tapered bits for Larger holes or (as was mentioned) annular cutters with a liquid cooled Morse to the "square drive" annular cutter adapter, and in my opinion that is by far the easiest way to cut larger holes in thicker plate. I also have a small mag drill system for the annular cutters that really handy.

If you think you might try using Morse style bits I "think" I have a bunch of 29/32" and 1" resharpend bits I bought that I will never need and could sell a few cheaply. I don't think I have ever seen a "good" deal on a cutting tool I could pass by.


Thanks,

Jeff

 

[rsanter]

Frankly I thoink you may be approaching it wrong....how about you convert over to using the morose taper drill bit. Better than any chuck can clamp a drill bit

Bob

 

[A_Pmech]

A Jacobs 14N will drive anything that drill press is capable of running. I would also use S&D drills instead of straight shank taper length drills. The latter eat up a lot of Z and cost more.

 

[tarmy]

You guys are awesome with ideas and comments. I am going to try a few ideas out that have been suggested.

I think I will get a couple of the core drills (5/8', 3/4) with the MT3 shaft. I am going to get a good Jacobs ball bearing chuck too for the smaller stuff.

I may try and get an MT 3 adaptor for the MT 2 size taper drill and try that also.

Thanks guys...I appreciate the time for the effort to educate me...

 

[rsanter]

You can often buy used taper drill bits for cheap. They don't seem to have much secondary value as companies generally just buy new.
You can also have them professionally sharpned if you do not know how

And yes, get a 3-2 adapter

Bob