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Need expert's advice on how to paint a wall
- Thread starter camaross
- Start date
sberry
Banned
I swear I recently watched a tutorial on one of the home shows, painter said to let the cut in dry first.
rlitman
Well-known member
Shopping:
- use Floetrol additive
I never bothered with the stuff, but it is supposed to help reduce brush strokes. It is also good for spraying latex (I haven't tried this).
I would think that it would not be a good thing where you're rolling, and if you mixed a little in your paint cup that you use for cutting in, you risk changing the color a bit (but that's probably not too big a risk). In any case, you need it thoroughly mixed in. Personally, since I own a paint shaker, I use that (heck, my wife just used it to day to stir up natural peanut butter that had started to separate).
Before I owned one, I would take my paint back to the store if the can had been sitting more than a month. They'll be happy to shake it, and trust me when I say that the shaker is 1000% more capable of mixing in pigment that has settled, than any stick or drill powered blender, or whatever.
Penetrol was the stuff to have, for oil based paint.
I just called Sherwin Williams. They are kind enough to let me know the sale dates. Here are the coming sale events:
- painting supplies: September 11-13, 30% off
- paints: September 21, 40% off
That's what I was saying. It seems like they're always running one promotion or another. There's no way I'd be paying retail for their paint.
If you go there and sign up for their mailing list, you get on a "preferred customer" list and get access to more sale days (or 10% off on any non-sale day).
I swear I recently watched a tutorial on one of the home shows, painter said to let the cut in dry first.
Yes, yes, yes!
You don't want to paint over wet paint. The surface skin will get all messed up, and it may even peel off the liquid underneath.
Paint only onto dry areas. You can go over a wet area with your roller or brush, but by the time you've progressed more than a few feet along the wall, do not go back, or you risk messing up the surface. Just let it dry.
Latex only needs at most 2 hours anyway (read the label) to recoat.
If you don't finish a section completely, and have to take a break, you can always start back up in a different spot, and work your way back to where you left off when the dry time has elapsed.
What you don't want to do, is stop in a way that leaves a solid line behind where you left off in the middle of a wall.
Just keep painting a little, with a roller or brush that's running out of paint. It will "feather" out the hard edge.
rlitman
Well-known member
My Dad always said that if something was on sale that often, they were ripping you off the rest of the time. ;-)
I don't know if I'd apply that saying to SW, but I know what you mean.
To me, it appears that SW is trying to drum up repeat business by giving an incentive to join their mailing list. I believe that they figure if you are aware of their sales, it's a kind of free advertising, and keeps them fresh in your mind.
The "retail" prices are off their rocker crazy, but only customers who aren't coming back will actually pay that, and they're not focused on the customer who comes in for a quart never to return.
It's an odd business model, but it kind of makes sense to me.
rlitman
Well-known member
Shopping:
- buy Purdy brushes
That is good advice. I will say, that you cannot go wrong with a Purdy brush, so long as you don't get a natural bristle brush (which is made only for oil based paint or stain).
Every Purdy brush I've seen is hand packed and has a near perfect shape for painting.
That's not to say that I haven't seen equal or better brushes, but they're very hard to find, and most "premium" brushes from other companies either just plain ****, or cost as much or more than a Purdy anyway.
If it isn't hand packed, it is disposable.
I have a bunch of Zibra brushes that I got at Ace on sale ($3 was a good price, but I'm not paying more for those), that get used on primer coats. They're just nowhere near good enough for gloss paint on trim.
I prefer an angled brush for cutting in corners. My 3" long handle sees the most use if it is just walls. 2 1/2" if I'm going to be going around moldings too. 2" when I'm doing windows (window sashes and doors are a royal pain to paint, there are so many surfaces, I could do a whole ceiling in the same time).
If you own good brushes, you should also own a brush comb to clean them.
madstat
Well-known member
I hate painting. On the other hand, I can't justify hiring a pro because w.r.t the $$ involved its such a basic thing to DIY. The result is I end up painting a lot. People have given a lot of advice here and I won't even attempt a list of my own. I just want to share my single best piece of advice that helps me cope with a task that on a good day annoys me.
TRY YOUR BEST NOT TO HURRY!
After many many paint jobs where I needed to get it done and done quick, I didn't spend the proper time prepping this made actual painting a bad experience. Also rushing the paint job itself led to more errant brush strokes, spilled paint and overall ugly and frustrating job. Pro's can paint with a "smart hustle" because of all the experience they have, but I'm not a pro and I found if I created conditions where I could take my time, spread the work out and paint somewhat stress free the results was much better. Now when my wife talks about wanting to paint a room, I really take the time to plan it out, Honestly it takes me like a week (or even two weeks) to do one room. I remove all obstacles, do a good drop of laying the drop cloth, prep all surfaces, clean them well, make sure my brushes are in good order, most everything I can think of to have a "zen" experience. I never try to do too much in one session, of course it helps if you complete a coat in one session but you certainly don't need to prep all at the same time which is most of the work. I understand that people may not always have a lot of time on their hands but honestly for me this philosophy has made all the difference. The same approach to taping and mudding drywall as well has helped a ton.
TRY YOUR BEST NOT TO HURRY!
After many many paint jobs where I needed to get it done and done quick, I didn't spend the proper time prepping this made actual painting a bad experience. Also rushing the paint job itself led to more errant brush strokes, spilled paint and overall ugly and frustrating job. Pro's can paint with a "smart hustle" because of all the experience they have, but I'm not a pro and I found if I created conditions where I could take my time, spread the work out and paint somewhat stress free the results was much better. Now when my wife talks about wanting to paint a room, I really take the time to plan it out, Honestly it takes me like a week (or even two weeks) to do one room. I remove all obstacles, do a good drop of laying the drop cloth, prep all surfaces, clean them well, make sure my brushes are in good order, most everything I can think of to have a "zen" experience. I never try to do too much in one session, of course it helps if you complete a coat in one session but you certainly don't need to prep all at the same time which is most of the work. I understand that people may not always have a lot of time on their hands but honestly for me this philosophy has made all the difference. The same approach to taping and mudding drywall as well has helped a ton.
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MFortie
Well-known member
+1 on Purdy brushes.
+2 on Purdy brushes. And buy yourself a cheap pocket comb to 'comb' the bristles straight after you clean and 'twirl' your brushes.
djjsr
Well-known member
Just in case it hasn't been covered here yet, give some serious thought to how much gloss you want for your finish. It makes a BIG difference but is usually just a personal preference.
Once upon a time, people used semi-gloss or gloss in areas that needed frequent cleaning, like a kitchen or bathroom. Today's good quality paints are far superior and even the flat finishes clean up pretty easily.
Flat - No shine at all. Best for hiding imperfections.
Eggshell - Slight sheen but hardly noticeable.
Satin - Just a little more gloss than eggshell a little less than semi.
Semi-gloss - Just what it says.
Gloss - Slickest and shiniest. You better have done a good prep job because it will show any imperfections.
Just my preference, but I never use anything shinier than satin. All my walls are flat except eggshell in the baths and kitchen. All doors and trim are satin.
One more thing about the Purdy brushes. Look for one called a "Dale". It has a nice taper and is good for both cutting your edges and painting trim.
Once upon a time, people used semi-gloss or gloss in areas that needed frequent cleaning, like a kitchen or bathroom. Today's good quality paints are far superior and even the flat finishes clean up pretty easily.
Flat - No shine at all. Best for hiding imperfections.
Eggshell - Slight sheen but hardly noticeable.
Satin - Just a little more gloss than eggshell a little less than semi.
Semi-gloss - Just what it says.
Gloss - Slickest and shiniest. You better have done a good prep job because it will show any imperfections.
Just my preference, but I never use anything shinier than satin. All my walls are flat except eggshell in the baths and kitchen. All doors and trim are satin.
One more thing about the Purdy brushes. Look for one called a "Dale". It has a nice taper and is good for both cutting your edges and painting trim.
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I must be the only person that starts with TSP and hot water,
then blocks the wall and looks at with big lights looking for nail pops and other imperfections.
I think I spend 95% of my time on the wall, and 5% on the painting.
I have painted a few cars in my life and I think it carried over to my house.
Mike
then blocks the wall and looks at with big lights looking for nail pops and other imperfections.
I think I spend 95% of my time on the wall, and 5% on the painting.
I have painted a few cars in my life and I think it carried over to my house.
Mike
Yes, this X10! Sometimes I think it is a curse having restored and painted cars and trying to use that experience to paint ceilings and walls. The job takes MUCH longer trying to get the surfaces smooth, BUT, it sure looks nice when you're done! Don't forget microfiber roller!I must be the only person that starts with TSP and hot water,
then blocks the wall and looks at with big lights looking for nail pops and other imperfections.
I think I spend 95% of my time on the wall, and 5% on the painting.
I have painted a few cars in my life and I think it carried over to my house.
Mike
Zeke
Well-known member
I swear I recently watched a tutorial on one of the home shows, painter said to let the cut in dry first.
If you roll first and get as close as you can, you reduce the area to cut in a lot. It goes a lot faster. Some paints will show that you used this sequence. For those, you pretty much have to cut in first and allow enough of a band to roll into. I don't think it matters if the one process is dry or not. YMMV.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
I always cut in first, or the wife will cut in while I roll. Make sure you have a damp rag with you just for that little mishap on the moulding. Don't let a mishap dry because it makes it all the harder to get off. A damp rag will take it off right now.
If you have two gallons of paint, mix both gallons into a larger pail. Never use out of one gallon then open the next, when you are in the middle of a wall. You always want to finish up the paint you are using at the end of a wall. That way if there is any difference in the mix, it will not show up as bad.
When cutting in, don't use the gallon can by sitting it on a ladder then climbing the ladder. If you drink coffee, get the coffee in the plastic containers that have a handle and a screw on lid. These make excellent paint containers.
As Zeke does, I never put a paint brush or roller in the freezer. I wrap the brush or roller up in a plastic WallyWorld bag and always use the fridge. But I only do this if I am done painting for a few hours. Any longer than that, I at least make sure I clean out my paint brush.
Get a section of wire shelving at one of the box stores. These make an excellent rack for drying your rollers and brushes. The wires in the rack spread apart far enough to slip the handle of the brush in. This way they dry hanging straight down. I never dry to force dry a brush by flipping it back and fort on something to get the water out. I always wash the brush with soap and warm water, then when I final rinse it, I leave the bristles soaked. This keeps the bristles in their natural shape. Then when it dries by hanging straight down, your brush will be nice and sharp just like new. I've had sash brushes that were quite a few years old. That is until my wife grabbed one and used it to cut in areas on our rough cedar house. Ruined that one.
Use a brush comb. This will help get the paint out deep down in the bristles and up near the ferrule. If you find that you have paint up and in the ferrule, get a good petroleum based paint remover that is compatible with your brush type and soak the brush in it for a while. Dried paint close to the ferrule and deep in the brush by the ferrule will keep holding paint every time it's used and eventually changing the shape of the brush.
Brushes aren't cheap. And a good brush or two makes a big difference. A 2" sash brush will do a great job of cutting in. If you have a steady hand and a good brush, you won't need any masking tape at all. You can load the brush and get a good long pull off of it. Don't dunk the brush all of the way in when cutting in around windows. You only want to load just the tip of the brush maybe 1/2" to 3/4" then wipe off one side.
Good luck and post up your paintjob whe done.
If you have two gallons of paint, mix both gallons into a larger pail. Never use out of one gallon then open the next, when you are in the middle of a wall. You always want to finish up the paint you are using at the end of a wall. That way if there is any difference in the mix, it will not show up as bad.
When cutting in, don't use the gallon can by sitting it on a ladder then climbing the ladder. If you drink coffee, get the coffee in the plastic containers that have a handle and a screw on lid. These make excellent paint containers.
As Zeke does, I never put a paint brush or roller in the freezer. I wrap the brush or roller up in a plastic WallyWorld bag and always use the fridge. But I only do this if I am done painting for a few hours. Any longer than that, I at least make sure I clean out my paint brush.
Get a section of wire shelving at one of the box stores. These make an excellent rack for drying your rollers and brushes. The wires in the rack spread apart far enough to slip the handle of the brush in. This way they dry hanging straight down. I never dry to force dry a brush by flipping it back and fort on something to get the water out. I always wash the brush with soap and warm water, then when I final rinse it, I leave the bristles soaked. This keeps the bristles in their natural shape. Then when it dries by hanging straight down, your brush will be nice and sharp just like new. I've had sash brushes that were quite a few years old. That is until my wife grabbed one and used it to cut in areas on our rough cedar house. Ruined that one.
Use a brush comb. This will help get the paint out deep down in the bristles and up near the ferrule. If you find that you have paint up and in the ferrule, get a good petroleum based paint remover that is compatible with your brush type and soak the brush in it for a while. Dried paint close to the ferrule and deep in the brush by the ferrule will keep holding paint every time it's used and eventually changing the shape of the brush.
Brushes aren't cheap. And a good brush or two makes a big difference. A 2" sash brush will do a great job of cutting in. If you have a steady hand and a good brush, you won't need any masking tape at all. You can load the brush and get a good long pull off of it. Don't dunk the brush all of the way in when cutting in around windows. You only want to load just the tip of the brush maybe 1/2" to 3/4" then wipe off one side.
Good luck and post up your paintjob whe done.