Need good wood to metal adhesive

[lbperry]

I am making a walking stick out of a 1" dowel and a 1" x 4" piece of brass. The brass piece has a conical socket in one end. I have shaped the dowel so it makes a good fit in the socket but need a good glue to make a solid joint. I was thinking of using epoxy but since epoxies set up pretty brittle and a walking stick will be subject to impact loads I'm having second thoughts about that. Does anyone know of an epoxy that dries flexible or could suggest a better glue?
Will appreciate any suggestions.
Thanks

 

[BillK]

I dont know if I would want to just trust a glue for that. I would drill a hole a couple of inches deep in the dowel and in the brass piece and run some type of metal rod between them. Maybe a piece of threaded rod ? Something like this:

Bitray M10x80mm Double Ended Threaded Self Tapping Screw for Furniture,Carbon Steel Double-Headed Tip Screw Furniture Sofa Stair Screw Plug,8 Pcs: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Bitray M10x80mm Double Ended Threaded Self Tapping Screw for Furniture,Carbon Steel Double-Headed Tip Screw Furniture Sofa Stair Screw Plug,8 Pcs: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

 

[senlow]

West System G/flex epoxy should work well.

 

[niget2002]

I'd cross drill it and pin it with a piece of brass rod.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

A few thoughts.
Thread the dowel and brass piece.
Maybe a wedge in the dowel (similar to a hammer head) or a screw.
Pins (rivets) through the brass and dowel.

 

[rustyjames]

PL Premium. You'll cry trying to get it apart and it's cheap.

 

[Dumber than lumber]

PL Premium. You'll cry trying to get it apart and it's cheap.

LOL
So you say, Buy once, Cry continually?
The PL Premium could be a good solution.
I like moisture cure urethanes. You would get a little bit of flex with a urethane.

 

[Nutria]

Pinning or threading sound good. As to an adhesive, maybe PlioBond.

 

[wssix99]

Boat builders do this all the time. A marine epoxy will perform perfectly well for you. You can get a high grade epoxy system from a local marine suppy. I've also used Locktite's 2 hour Marine Epoxy product for non-life-or-death things and it's done a great job bonding plastic and other things to wood for me.

 

[Lynden]

Strongest Wood to Metal Glue Test Results​

1. Adiseal : 3123 psi
2. SupaBond : 1115 psi
3. Tec 7 : 1016 psi
4. HB42 : 942 psi
5. Loctite PL Premium : 873 psi
6. Gorilla Grab Adhesive : 862 psi
7. Bond It PU18 : 582 psi
8. Bond It Saves Nails : 411 psi

Wood to Metal Glue: Strongest Adhesive in Independent Test

Adiseal proven strongest wood to metal adhesive in independent test, exceeding over 3132 psi. Flexible, waterproof, durable & high gap fill.

adiseal.com

 

[rlitman]

Any clear epoxy will be fine. Epoxy is more flexible than you're giving it credit for. It is the additives that make it more rigid, so a metal powder filled epoxy would be a bad idea.

Polyurethane adhesives are your best choice, but you need to pick one that does not foam up, What I'd use would be Clear Gorilla Glue. This is a non-foaming moisture cure polyurethane glue that sets up with a great bond that remains flexible.

Clear Gorilla Glue | Gorilla Glue

The strength and versatility you have come to expect from Gorilla Glue is now available in an easy to use, crystal clear, non-foaming formula. Clear Gorilla Glue is incredibly strong and is ideal for indoor and outdoor applications and bonds virtually everything.

www.gorillatough.com

 

[Jackfre]

I’ve done this with West System and a piece of all thread as the fastener. Drill/tap the brass and the wood apply the epoxy and screw them together. I have gotten tips and some hardware for canes and staffs from LeeValley.

 

[ez-duzit]

...epoxies set up pretty brittle...

BS

But 3M 5200 is the correct adhesive.

 

[Black300zx]

BS

But 3M 5200 is the correct adhesive.

Or 3M 5200 quick cure. 5200 is excellent, very versatile and tough as nails, but I won't go within 5ft of it until it's fully cured, otherwise I inevitably find that I've accidentally tracked it all over. 1 days of being careful >>> 1 week (I think...for the regular stuff)

West Systems is great as well, but really pricy to buy in small quantities. ]

 

[lbperry]

Boy! a bunch of great replies and all of them great, Thanks.
I don't want to slight any of your suggestions but here's the way I've decided to go.
The double ended screw is probably the best and most elegant but with the limits of my skills and equipment i'm gonna have to pass on that fix.
I'm going to glue it with the PL Premium since it's recommended by several of you and most readily available for me.
I'm also going to cross-drill and pin it with a brass pin.
Once again I really appreciate all of your thoughtful replies. They're what make this forum so valuable to me.
Thanks again,
lbperry

 

[rustyjames]

PL has one drawback, once you pop the tube it's shelf life is pretty short unless you seal it up really good. If you have other things to glue that would be a good time to do it. I fixed a pair of boots with it, the sole started to peel. Worked great. Glued a concrete birdbath that split in half from freezing, that was 5 years ago and still holding. Works on a lot of materials. Don't get it on anything you don't want to glue.

 

[tarmy]

I actually tried JB weld metal epoxy…works damn good. They make a whole line of specialty epoxies

 

[Pierre2021]

I really like this guy's review of pretty much anything. Project Farm

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC2rzsm1Qi6N1X-wuOg_p0Ng

 

[lbperry]

You mention sealing the PL up real good after opening it. Any good techniques for doing that other than putting the cap back on? You think putting the tube in a plastic baggie or something else would do any good?
Thanks,

 

[rlitman]

...You think putting the tube in a plastic baggie or something else would do any good?
Thanks,

No. Plastic bags are moisture permeable. Aluminum foil under the cap would help.

 

[rustyjames]

You mention sealing the PL up real good after opening it. Any good techniques for doing that other than putting the cap back on? You think putting the tube in a plastic baggie or something else would do any good?
Thanks,

To my knowledge it's only available in caulking gun type tubes, so no caps. After you use it the product will continue to flow from the cartridge, even after you release the pressure. After it stops flowing i stick something in the opening to cover it as much as possible and then wrap some aluminum tape around that to seal it up good. That'll buy you a month or so, after that you'll have to trim back the nozzle, or even hack into the tube to get unhardened product. Polyurethane will harden in an unopened tube after time, just like silicone will go bad.

 

[lbperry]

I got it in a 4 oz tube. i'll try some aluminum foil under the cap. you don't think that'll affect the seal of the threads too much?
Thanks

 

[rustyjames]

If it has a cap you should be fine.

 

[nadogail]

There are many very fine products that will meet your requirements. A competent dealer can certainly recommend one for your particular circumstances. Internet Research has a lot of limitations because most of it is done without human interaction.

 

[jives]

The brass piece with the conical socket is how deep? If the socket is deep and you can pin/dowel it, then that is a good solution. If you need to glue then you need to know the stresses the glue will take. If the glue is only there to prevent the brass cap from sliding off the stick, then any of the glues mentioned will work, although if they are prevented from any air they may not cure well.

BTW, regular JB Weld will likely work on metal/wood, and probably better than the Loctite PL. I have been running some tests with both of those on metal to metal for a project I am working on (rebuilding old Radio Flyer red wagon). I am gluing metal reinforcing plates to the tub's rusted out bolt holes, which also requires the glue to fill some irregular surfaces. In one test pieces the PL did not cure even after a week. I all cases the JB held a harder and superior strength bond.

 

[rustyjames]

Agreed, JB Weld is also good choice. You can speed up cure with PL by misting water on the parts before connecting.

 

[Jswain]

If you have a vacuum sealer it works amazing at keeping things like this ready to go for the next use and makes it a hell of a lot more affordable vs. use once and throw out because it's set up before you use it again.

 

[rayra]

OP is overthinking it, especially if there is already a good wood to brass fit. Any epoxy will do. It's a walking stick, not a hammer.

Frankly I'd just use 100% silicone caulk in that joint. It will stick and it won't give a damn about the OP's imagined "impact loads."

/besides, you are putting a rubber end on the ground end / tip, aren't you? for traction. Or is that a brass ferule as well?