Need guidance on finishing ceiling

[DeadPedal]

The previous owner of my house had an extra garage added on and it looks like he left the project half finished. He insulted the walls, but never finished them. And the ceiling is open to the rafters. I want to drywall and finish the whole thing. It's 25' deep by 23' wide.

There's a joist every third rafter or so, but obviously there's not enough there to hang drywall on. So, what's the next step? Do I build in joists every 16" similar to what's there?

Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[NUTTSGT]

I'm guessing the roof is shingled as it has rafters every 16" ? Is there any soffits vents ? I'd make sure you add some type of ventilation to the attic space before you go crazy and close it up.

Since there is a rafter every 4', you might want to consider putting metal on the ceiling as it should be able to span that distance.

BTW, somebody is probably going to ask you what the previous owner said to the walls.

 

[matt_i]

As NUTTS suggested, the venting is important, and if not present, a potentially larger task than the interior work, as you'd have to get into the finished soffit and the finished roof cap. Its not earth shattering difficulty but would need planning and funding just like anything else.

At first glance, it would appear easiest to duplicate what has already been started.

However, I am concerned about the "15 degree incline" between the double top plate of the wall and the start of the bottom chord.

That can only be minimally insulated, either with the "roof deck channels" to enforce airflow in a loose fill situation or else rigid foam could be carefully cut and fitted.

I would plan for an access hatch and a pull-chain light up there as well.

 

[The Cobbler]

your "joists" are collar ties.
different ways to accomplish what you want. quickly comes to mind;
add collar ties to all of the rafters, or strap the collar ties , or frame between the collar ties. all on 16 or 24 " centers.
like previously said, be sure to add insulation baffles to the roof line and be sure your soffit vents to the attic space , also roof vents .

 

[DeadPedal]

It's got soffit vents and a ridge vent so it's setup for a ventilated attic. Yes, the back wall is a little weird since the top plate doesn't meet the joists. The front wall (behind me when I took the pic) is taller than the back to accommodate taller doors. Not sure why they did the back wall that way, I guess to get that extra foot of floor space. I think I might mount a couple 4' lights to it to shine under the hood of a car.

Thanks for the reminder, I'll definitely put those venting channels in the soffits before Sheetrock. And adding a light up there is a good idea too.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[DeadPedal]

Brought this post back from the dead as I'm finally ready to work on it. So, here's some more pictures. The rafter ties (ceiling joists) are every 3rd rafter or so (rafters 16" on center). I guess they were pre-engineered trusses?

Option 1: Can I add framing perpendicular between the rafter ties to screw drywall to? would that be strong enough to hold the drywall and insulation? I'm not planning to use the atic space for storage as it's a shallow roof pitch and there's only 3' of clearance from ceiling joist to ridge beam.

Option 2: Or do I need to add more ceiling joists parallel to the existing joists? they're almost 25' long so I guess I need to get a couple 14' long 2x6s and connect them using (I don't know the term, mending plates?) and webbing to the rafters similar to what's already there? Basically duplicating what's there already.

Thanks again!

 

[Deej-79]

Go perpendicular

 

[dave_dj1]

First and foremost that sign has to go!
LOL JK
Just add a joist to every rafter and insulate and drywall it.

 

[walta]

I think you should consult an engineer.

Some of us can guess that that your rafters happen to be large enough to support rafter drywall insulation.

It likely will but as soon as you have an attic will you fill it full of stuff.

How much weight will your new ceiling hold?

When they built the garage they likely selected the smallest rafters possible to reduce the cost and win the bid.


Walta

 

[gnpenning]

They aren't trusses, the ridge beam is a give away. It was site built. Sorry, early morning brain is slipping on correct terminology.

This may be a good candidate for spray foam.

Whoever did your doors must have been low bid. Doors with openers should have a strut across the top. This will help keep the top of the door from flexing every time you open and close the door. The door will eventually crack or bend in the middle. Add struts to both doors, get them from a real door company

 

[gnpenning]

What did the PO say to the walls?

 

[n20junkie]

I would parallel the existing collar ties. Overlap and nail at the center and then add a connecting member or two, up to the rafters like the existing ties have to resist sagging.

 

[jetnow1]

If using soffit and ridge vents get rid of the gable vent, it will not help and could hurt the system.

 

[CraigStu]

The concern I would have is whether the roof is strong enough to hang a bunch of 25 ft 2xs from, and drywall, and insulation. As NUTTSGT says, I would look into something like metal that will span the existing frame work. Also I might skip insulation entirely. If that attic space is simply sealed off, that will help immensely w/ heating below.

 

[Larryjones]

What did the PO say to the walls?

"Hello Walls" ?

Is it a heated garage? I would be inclined to just paint the exposed wood white and be happy. Or foam between the rafters if you are heating.

 

[andys]

BTW, somebody is probably going to ask you what the previous owner said to the walls.

I had to go back and read the OP twice!

 

[Bob2112]

Metal can easily span 4', PBR panel is rated to span 6', but I'm using it on 10' spans with no problems. That's with 9.5" of batt on top of it too.

 

[jetnow1]

Personally I would just add the missing joists, insulate and sheetrock. The attic space is
pretty useless, to low for much and framed so it would not carry a lot of weight. Code requires an access hatch if there is more than 3 foot clearance though. Run any wire for
lights etc before insulating.

 

[Joe_K]

Soffit baffles, steel roof liner (like you see in pole buildings), access hatch, blown in insulation. I wouldn't add any 2x's to drywall since you don't know how much weight it was engineered to hold.