Need heating advice for garage

[dakotart1984]

Im looking for some input as to heating options for my garage in picking out something that will work for what I need and wont need to be upgraded or replaced. Given that, I want to remain cost effective. I have space now to work in there and I want to be able to utilize it.

My garage is a 10x20. As far as I know my options are; propane, electric, or kerosene. I cannot run natural gas to the other side of the house. I would have to go through foundation or go through a ton of work to bury the pipe which wouldn't be cost effective. Running duct work to the homes HVAC is impossible as well. My floor space is minimal as I would like to retain from using what I have. The walls are drywalled but there is very minimal insulation. The ceiling is open with a roof vent. This will hopefully change next year when its warm enough to move everything outside and get insulated and re-drywalled.

Id love to hear your suggestions, I dont really know what exists for my purpose.

 

[themiller]

Insulate and Electric. Small space should be easy.

 

[dakotart1984]

Im looking for one to help me get through this winter and will be sufficent for next year, after I get the chance to insulate. It will only be for intermittent use, a couple hours at a time. Id like to reach a decent temp in a short time.

I was looking at one of these.
http://www.menards.com/main/p-2397000.htm?cm_vc=PDPZ1

However I currently have only my welder plug available at 240. I *could* run another 240 line to a new plug if needed, but wouldnt prefer to do so. I need to also mention that I have 100 amp service into the house, the main power hogs are my 60 gallon compressor, hvac and electric stove. My ac unit, obviously not being used is on a double 30 breaker so I can imagine as long as my heating options stay in line with that, I should be good.

 

[keitho64]

I just installed an electric ceiling heater in my garage and am very happy with it. My garage is insulated so that will make a huge difference. I believe closing off the ceiling on yours will make the biggest improvement, without that it will be hard to keep warm.

Here is the link to what I just installed.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=274490

 

[dakotart1984]

Keitho, Im looking at doing the same. Since im in chicago as well that cold really has hit! I will have to look into insulation options. I believe it will help the HVAC as anything near the door to get out there is just as cold.

 

[Elginz]

I use a 4' 220v, 3000w electric tube in my garage for years and years now. 24x24, 10'4" high ceeiling insulated with bats and blown in fiberglass, 2x4 walls, osb in and out fiberglass in the walls, 3/4 foam under the floor, 8x16 overhead door. It will be what ever temp I set it at. Last night it was -1 out side, 65 inside. I do have it on a electric company controlled second meter option at something like $.045 per kw so it is very reasonable to operate.
The other advantage is it is radiant, so it can be off and cold out there, turn it on and you feel the warmth in seconds.
Also no noise, a big one for me, and no blowing dust around, no blowing cold air on start up, like when the shop is cold to start with.

 

[James-W]

Electric heat would probably work out OK if you plan to be working out there occasionally and then only for short periods of time. But I also think you need to close of the ceiling to keep the heat from going straight up to the roof. I would put SOMETHING on the ceiling, even if it is only some cardboard. You really need to try and keep the heat down from the roof as much as you can. I realize cardboard isn't going to offer much in the way of insulation, but it would be there to keep the heat from just rising right up to the roof and not really for insulation purposes. Next Summer he can insulate properly and do whatever it takes to make the building warm. But for a temporary measure I think the cardboard ceiling and electric heat would work out about the quickest, the cheapest and the easiest.

 

[Slednut]

What James said, even a 10x20 tarp stapled to the ceiling would help a lot.

 

[racerex]

Over at my prior garage....where I worked on project cars...I stapled Tyvek to the uninsulated ceiling to keep some of the heat in the space. It was an uninsulated 2-car garage with block walls and it had a loft area. I heated the space with a small forced air propane unit. I also hung a plastic drop cloth between the bays....she parked her car on the other side of the garage. The Tyvek also helped to reflect some of the light. The Tyvek helped, but when those concrete block walls were cold, it was tuff to keep it warm for long without running the heater to warm the place back up. I was not very motivated to work over there during the dead of winter.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Im looking for some input as to heating options for my garage in picking out something that will work for what I need and wont need to be upgraded or replaced. Given that, I want to remain cost effective. I have space now to work in there and I want to be able to utilize it.

My garage is a 10x20. As far as I know my options are; propane, electric, or kerosene. I cannot run natural gas to the other side of the house. I would have to go through foundation or go through a ton of work to bury the pipe which wouldn't be cost effective. Running duct work to the homes HVAC is impossible as well. My floor space is minimal as I would like to retain from using what I have. The walls are drywalled but there is very minimal insulation. The ceiling is open with a roof vent. This will hopefully change next year when its warm enough to move everything outside and get insulated and re-drywalled.

Id love to hear your suggestions, I dont really know what exists for my purpose.

If you want to be effective without replacement or upgrading, I think you need to look at the long term. First get it insulated as any heat put out there is going to be essentially wasted. Second, reconsider your NG source. Electric rates keep going up and LP is going to need refilled, usually when you least expect it. Once plumbed in, NG will be effective, efficent and shouldn't need upgraded if you buy the proper size heater.

For future reference, you mentioned you're in the Chicago area. You might want to add that to your profile. It'll make it easier for other members to assist you when you ask specific questions.

 

[dakotart1984]

Getting NG out there isnt much of an option. It dead ends on the side of the furnace not close to the garage and even if it was on the other side itd either have to A) go up through the studs, across the attic requiring drywall and a mess of blown in insulation to be redone B) Through the foundation across the main level which would require a complete floor tear-out and be stupid expensive C) backed out the wall and buried outside then brought back in. I don't want to do any of that. I don't use the garage much at all right now, there's no heat. I'm subject to whatever the weather is outside. My job requires me to be gone much of the nicer weather season so the only chance I can get to do projects is during the winter. That being said, ANY way to make it tolerable to get things done out there is a big help. I will be insulating it with batts and a vapor barrier.

Another question is, Can I eliminate the roof vent in the garage? I thought they were only needed for moisture in attics?

 

[Elginz]

http://www.heateroutlet.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=568&idcategory=441#.VKW7DyujNDE

A link to what I have had for years now, I also put one in the studio I made for my daughter.
The advantage is the you are heating the things not the air. It is ideal for a situation where you can't hold the heat in. Which was the situation when I started using it. At just over $200 to purchase, 3000 w at 13 cents a kw? = $.39 an hour to use. Most of the heat goes in to the things you touch so you can work before the air has to warm up, then the air warms the objects, then you can work. If you like cold air blowing on you get a forced air type unit, or if you insulate and seal things up tight like I did, it still works great. I suppose there are better type of units for different situations. I do have the option of in floor heating, but my floors are warm with this unit. One draw back might be you need 8' plus some ceiling height , check the specks.

 

[SweetD]

Portable propane heater for now, and run it off 20 gallon tanks. It will heat up that space pretty quickly - I'm assuming you will only want to run the heat when you are actually using the space for a project (not looking to heat it all the time).

After you close up the ceiling / insulate, then I think a permanent electric heater option would come into play. Too bad you can't get the NG option in there...but I understand why it seems cost-ineffective.

Good luck - let us know what you end up doing!

Dave

 

[dakotart1984]

To even get the electrical installed for a permanent heater im going to have to get a propane burner in there. I have access to a Menards that will do propane refills for a reasonable price so it'll have to work for now.

Does anyone have any input in regards to the roof vent that's installed? Is it ok to block it off? It honestly looks like it was never even supposed to be there looking at the other houses in the neighborhood that are the same model..

 

[HoosierMark]

How often do you weld? Could you use that outlet for your power source?
Then when you want to weld unplug the heater and plug your welder in. Heat up the garage, switch to the welder, when it cools down plug it back in. It would be solution to get you thru for a while at minimal cost.

 

[mdbeck1]

So thinking outside the box a little bit... Do you have a clothes drier? mine was in the garage and the vent died. I let it vent into the garage one winter and was sold. Now when I get ready to go out into the garage in winter I redirect the hot air and dry a load of clothes first.

SWMBFAO is happy because the laundry gets swapped and I've got a fairly warm garage.

Note that this DOES put some moisture in the garage as well. You will notice more rust on bare metal.

 

[Jolie-Rouge]

I installed several of the Fahrenheat (by Marley) Hydronic baseboard heaters controlled with a Dimplex proportional thermostat. Originally, my intention to heat my 1000 ft^2 space was a Napoleon wood burning stove as primary heating, and the hydronic heaters as secondary - for times when it wasn't cold enough to use the wood stove, I was lazy, etc. The hydronic heaters performed so well, I have not yet used the wood stove. The hydronic heaters provide a heat vey similar to the old steam radiators - where the heat persists - rather than like a forced air type - where it starts to get cold as soon as the fan shuts off. I'm very happy with the heaters. The hydronic heaters are also cheap and easy to install. I got good prices from Amazon.

 

[dakotart1984]

Wow, what an array of heating suggestions..

Ive used the oven in the kitchen before to assist but with a child running around the house now, Im sure the wife isnt going to fly with that.

Baseboard / Radiant heating doesn't seem like it'll be enough.

I'm still leaning towards the suggested one from Northern tool. I will be near a store tomorrow so I might go check them out.

 

[oltruckag]

I used to use an electric oil filled radiator to keep my bedroom warm in the 1900's era house I lived in years ago. There wasn't a bit of insulation in the whole house and it would keep the room warm (ish). I'd staple up a tarp for now and go that route - cheap and you'll likely find it plenty sufficient for the small space. The key is to keep it somewhat warm so there isn't a significant amount of stuff to warm up before the space warms up.

Tyson

 

[404]

More choices:

Rice coal stoker stove

Wood Pellet stove

Temporary hook up of natural gas using a garden or other large diameter hose, disconnect when done. Perfectly safe as long as nothing goes wrong.

 

[dakotart1984]

Natural gas via garden hose, now thatll work.

I dont have space on the walls or floor so its going on the ceiling, I measured and have clearance in one corner of the garage.

 

[jvitez]

Portable propane heater for now, and run it off 20 gallon tanks. Dave

+1.

Buy a portable propane heater, either a torpedo or "top hat" type, get a 40 gallon propane tank, and use it for the rest of the winter. Sell it on Craig's List next fall.

Before next winter run your 240V circuit, insulate and vapour barrier the garage properly, and install an electric heater of your choice. Just to confuse you more, here's another radiant option. Gang together a couple along the 20 ft wall, 2000-2500 watts would probably do you well:

http://www.ouellet.com/en-us/products/residential-products-en.aspx?product=ORC

Radiant heat would be ideal for your space, intermittent heating needs and climate.

 

[dakotart1984]

Jvitez, I agree with what you are saying. I literally will have every inch of wall and floor space reserved so those radiants wont really work. I might be able to put one above my bench and help it more but until I get the heater I wont really know what im working with. I believe the insulation is the key. I tried to pick the heater up at northern today but they were wiped out. I will have to resort to ordering it online and using a coupon. I almost picked up the radiant propane heater there as they were marked $29.99 normally $44.99.

 

[chewy7]

Insulate and Electric. Small space should be easy.

electric is the most expensive way to heat around here. stay away from it.

 

[Autorotica]

We bought one of these for in the house.

http://www.harborfreight.com/400900-watt-oscillating-parabolic-heater-62313.html

Only being 400 or 900 watts, its cheap to run, not going to burn the **** out of you and it throws a ton of light. No point to heating up the whole garage, just heat you. BTW, the cats LOVE the thing.

Chris