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Need Help Adding a TV Coax Outlet

Lightyear68

Active member
Joined
Sep 14, 2013
Messages
36
Location
Bel Air, Maryland
I understand basic electricity and cabling, but need some advice on my plan to add a coax tv outlet to my garage wall.

I have a cable tv outlet installed in a bedroom above my garage. The bedroom outlet sits above the garage ceiling about 30 inches from the garage wall where I want the additional outlet.

My plan is to:
1. Cut a 8"x8" access hole in the drywall next to the bedroom outlet.
2. Install a splitter to the "in" splitter connection using the cable feeding that outlet.
3. Install a short coax cable from one "out" to the original bedroom outlet.
4. Install a second longer cable from teh other splitter "out" down through the garage ceiling and over to the wall for the new outlet.
5. Cover the bedroom access hole with a plastic drywall plate for accessing connection if needed.

Is there a problem with this plan? The cable company quoted me 168 dollars to add an outlet--they would probably run it from the source panel...not sure.
 
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justsam

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Joined
Aug 20, 2010
Messages
1,267
Location
Penngrove, California
I understand basic electricity and cabling, but need some advice on my plan to add a coax tv outlet to my garage wall.

I have a cable tv outlet installed in a bedroom above my garage. The bedroom outlet sits above the garage ceiling about 30 inches from the garage wall where I want the additional outlet.

My plan is to:
1. Cut a 8"x8" access hole in the drywall next to the bedroom outlet.
2. Install a splitter to the "in" splitter connection using the cable feeding that outlet.
3. Install a short coax cable from one "out" to the original bedroom outlet.
4. Install a second longer cable from teh other splitter "out" down through the garage ceiling and over to the wall for the new outlet.
5. Cover the bedroom access hole with a plastic drywall plate for accessing connection if needed.

Is there a problem with this plan? The cable company quoted me 168 dollars to add an outlet--they would probably run it from the source panel...not sure.

There is no problem with your plan. My only concern would be if you already have a marginal signal level in your bedroom, you are adding another 3.5 dB of insertion loss.

If it can be avoided it is not a good idea to have a splitter feeding another splitter but it is done all the time, and assuming a digital signal and high enough signal level, no problem at all. Do not use a splitter with any more ports than necessary to minimize insertion loss.

For future trouble shooting, make it evident there is an access plate.
 
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Lightyear68

Active member
Joined
Sep 14, 2013
Messages
36
Location
Bel Air, Maryland
Thanks for the quick and knowledgeable reply Justsam. It's a low def connection for now, so I'll give it a try. If the quality is too poor then I'll pay the fee to have the direct connection to a source.
 

jherm

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 15, 2013
Messages
69
Fwiw, around here all of the cable companies only do exterior runs and come in through the outside wall through a grommet. Not worth the payment if that is their approach. Depending on the entry point of the cable in your house you there might be an easier way, or your own outdoor run
 

jkwilson

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Joined
Dec 5, 2012
Messages
758
Location
SW Indiana
Have you pulled the plate to see what is behind it? I've pulled them off and found enough access to fish another cable without doing any cutting. Not at all unusual to find a small hole in the drywall with no box.

Back when Dishnetwork was DIY, I did a lot of installs, and I liked to just connect a string to the old antenna lead and pull it back and tie the Dish cable to it and pull the string back through the plate opening.

Like justsam said, you will be knocking your signal to both TVs by more than half with the splitter, which may or may not be an issue.
 

CNGsaves

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Joined
Sep 26, 2012
Messages
13,233
Location
KS and OK
I understand basic electricity and cabling, but need some advice on my plan to add a coax tv outlet to my garage wall.

I have a cable tv outlet installed in a bedroom above my garage. The bedroom outlet sits above the garage ceiling about 30 inches from the garage wall where I want the additional outlet.

My plan is to:
1. Cut a 8"x8" access hole in the drywall next to the bedroom outlet.
2. Install a splitter to the "in" splitter connection using the cable feeding that outlet.
3. Install a short coax cable from one "out" to the original bedroom outlet.
4. Install a second longer cable from teh other splitter "out" down through the garage ceiling and over to the wall for the new outlet.
5. Cover the bedroom access hole with a plastic drywall plate for accessing connection if needed.

Is there a problem with this plan? The cable company quoted me 168 dollars to add an outlet--they would probably run it from the source panel...not sure.

Holy **** . . . . you could Re-Wire your entire house in RG6 for that !!!

Do NOT jerry rig your garage CATV run by cutting into another run and adding splitter.

Tell us more about ENTIRE HOUSE setup for CATV cabling . . . do you have an unfinished basement where you can trace any of those runs?? What is construction of house . . . . slab, or concrete basement?? Have attic access so you could go up if necessary??

I would recommend an entire NEW Home-run of RG6 back to where ever the CATV splitter is located (likely on grey box on outside of house).

Post up PICTURES of what you have . . . ie basement, box on outside of house, etc. With those pics you'll get best advice.

I've rewired every house I've lived in for CATV / ethernet / phone as it's the only way you will get quality work. ABSOLUTELY do NOT let any cable company schmo start drilling around perimeter of your house with 18" drill bit and clusterfuxxing up exterior of house. Do it RIGHT by doing it yourself.
 

rodm1

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 17, 2008
Messages
2,270
Do it right and run a home run! While you are doing it run another cable along with it.
 
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Lightyear68

Active member
Joined
Sep 14, 2013
Messages
36
Location
Bel Air, Maryland
Post up PICTURES of what you have . . . ie basement, box on outside of house, etc. With those pics you'll get best advice.

Will post pics when I get home, but for now:

Finished basement; garage drywall level 1 finish taped only; cable access on outside wall of attached garage; two splitters installed outside the house at the cable box; ceiling joists in garage running perpendicular from outside wall to the inside wall where I want the outlet; attic is where a cable installer dropped a few runs into upstairs bedrooms.
 
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wyliesdiesels

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Joined
Aug 14, 2012
Messages
20,032
Location
Modesto, CA
$168- Holy schnikees! :eyecrazy: Do it yourself for cheaper and buy a 24 pack of beer with the change! :beer: The tools would be about $75!

Where is your DEMARC/service/NID box at? If you ran a new cable from there then u could possibly get a better signal!
 

2ManyProjects

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 18, 2013
Messages
757
I understand basic electricity and cabling, but need some advice on my plan to add a coax tv outlet to my garage wall.

I have a cable tv outlet installed in a bedroom above my garage. The bedroom outlet sits above the garage ceiling about 30 inches from the garage wall where I want the additional outlet.

My plan is to:
1. Cut a 8"x8" access hole in the drywall next to the bedroom outlet.
2. Install a splitter to the "in" splitter connection using the cable feeding that outlet.
3. Install a short coax cable from one "out" to the original bedroom outlet.
4. Install a second longer cable from teh other splitter "out" down through the garage ceiling and over to the wall for the new outlet.
5. Cover the bedroom access hole with a plastic drywall plate for accessing connection if needed.

Is there a problem with this plan?

Well, that largely depends on what you call "a problem."

No question that tacking one drop onto another is a "hack" approach, and one which should be avoided if reasonably possible. That said, it nonetheless MIGHT work.

The cable company quoted me 168 dollars to add an outlet

Thus once again confirming that they are thieves.

--they would probably run it from the source panel...not sure.

Don't count on that. But even if they do, that doesn't mean they're going to do a "good" job for all that money. Typically, cable companies hire subcontractors for this sort of thing; and they pay on a flat-rate basis which leads to work being done in the quickest/easiest/most-expedient fashion possible. For example, you can probably forget about "fishing" wires through walls and neatly installed outlet plates. Far more likely, they'll staple miles of coax to baseboards and such, and take some weirdly convoluted route from "Point A" to "Point B", just because it's quicker and easier. Then they're out the door and on to the next job, and the next paycheck.


Do NOT jerry rig your garage CATV run by cutting into another run and adding splitter.

Agreed.

Tell us more about ENTIRE HOUSE setup for CATV cabling . . . do you have an unfinished basement where you can trace any of those runs?? What is construction of house . . . . slab, or concrete basement?? Have attic access so you could go up if necessary??

I would recommend an entire NEW Home-run of RG6 back to where ever the CATV splitter is located (likely on grey box on outside of house).

Also agreed.

Post up PICTURES of what you have . . . ie basement, box on outside of house, etc. With those pics you'll get best advice.

That can't hurt, either.

 
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Lightyear68

Active member
Joined
Sep 14, 2013
Messages
36
Location
Bel Air, Maryland
With all of the advice I've checked my service box area and created a new plan that involves:

(1) Buying these outdoor connectors and the "frequently bought together" compression tool and stripper.
(2) Since all of my splitter connections at the service box are used (a 2-way and a separate 3-way) I'm going to replace the 3-way with a 4-way and add a new cable to the open spot.
(3) I'll run the cable under the siding (vertical up corners and horizontal under the panels) and into the garage wall at a selected point.
(4) I'll be cutting a 12" access opening around the entire perimeter of my garage so that I can run the coax and also romex for additional outlets. The 12" allows me to keep the coax separated from the electrical current (a tip I learned on this forum).
(5) Replace or install new drywall and move onto the drywall finishing...

I'd appreciate any advice on the new plan. I asked the original question to do the job correctly, and now want to know if this is now considered, "best practice."
 

2ManyProjects

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 18, 2013
Messages
757
With all of the advice I've checked my service box area and created a new plan that involves:
{details deleted}
I'd appreciate any advice on the new plan. I asked the original question to do the job correctly, and now want to know if this is now considered, "best practice."

MUCH better! ;)

That is perhaps not the greatest crimp tool on the planet; but for a one-off homeowner job, it's probably not an unreasonable choice. I'm also not too keen on running the coax under the siding. It PROBABLY won't be a major problem; but it's really NOT "best practice".

If it were my house, and I was being compulsive about it, what I would really WANT to do is remove ALL the "splitters" from that outside connection point, run some high-quality quad-shield RG-6/U inside to an easily accessible central location, then home-run all the drops from there, using ONE n-way splitter (or possibly a low-gain distribution amp) to accommodate however many drops I needed. If I can't get exactly the right number of outputs on the splitter or distribution amp, I'd step up to the next-larger version, and put 75-Ohm terminating caps on the unused outputs.

 

theoldwizard1

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Messages
43,216
Location
SE MI
With all of the advice I've checked my service box area and created a new plan that involves:

(1) Buying these outdoor connectors and the "frequently bought together" compression tool and stripper.
Snap-N-Seal are the best connector IMHO ! Around here the cable guys use the standard RG6 connectors (SNS6 - Blue inset) even outside. Just make certain the connection is does NOT allow water to run down the wire INTO the connector. If you are really paranoid, wrap it with 3M 130C Linerless Splicing Tape.

Thomas & Betts sold the Snap-N-Seal line to Belden so you may see both names. I prefer the IT1000 tool. It includes a cable stripper.

(2) Since all of my splitter connections at the service box are used (a 2-way and a separate 3-way) I'm going to replace the 3-way with a 4-way and add a new cable to the open spot.

Always a good idea ! If possible, make sure there is a 120V outlet nearby just in case you need to add an amplifier or just buy an amplifier-splitter combo.
 
Last edited:

erty67

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 30, 2012
Messages
1,151
Those are good connectors. Make sure you are using a prep tool to properly cut the cable for the connector. Using a utility knife is a BAD idea. Make the connector right. That is the biggest weakness in the cable system. Use at least tri-shield RG6 and have fun.
 

jeffmoss26

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Joined
May 25, 2011
Messages
12,857
Location
Cleveland, Ohio
I have both the Snap N Seal and the PPC connectors for RG6. I like them both, last time I checked, Time Warner uses the PPC connectors here. Both brands are now owned by Belden.

I agree, home runs wherever possible, and the less splitters, the better.
 
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