Need help buying a used fork lift!

[muibubbles]

Hey guys, I'm in the process of moving and I'm realizing I have way too much heavy tools. And on top of that, I'm reluctant to bid on any new machinery because I have no idea how to off load them. So I think its time to invest in a fork lift. Moving stuff manual is getting tiring and also very dangerous (doing it by myself)

So what brands should I look for/stay away from
Battery or propane powered?
etc etc

Thanks!

 

[A_Pmech]

Long time no see! Hope all is well in your neck of the woods.

A few questions:

What kind of floor and exterior surfaces do your current and new places have?

What's the largest machine you'd like to move?

 

[drivesitfar]

Bubble: i too would love a fork lift, but i am leasing so going to wait until i own my own shop. i did find this Jet pallet jack that is working well to get pretty heavy things off my trailer and when i drop the pallet to the ground i have a pallet jack to move it around the shop or property.

i also had these Vermette lifts for a little lighter loads on pallets but they limit out around 500-1000 pounds.

like Apmech says how heavy are the items you are moving.

i would like to hear what the best fork lifts are for value and a small shop so when i'm ready to buy one i'll know what a good deal is.

 

[wild cowboy]

Toyota!........FTW!

 

[mech-tech]

After wasting 2 years of my life working on forklifts (my boss was weird) I can honestly say from experience that up to around 4,000 pounds or so, go electric. Only thing that gets pricey with them is the battery, so make sure the battery is able to hold a charge before buying. Any more that around 4,000 pounds I would get a diesel preferably. Whats nice about a propane forklift is they always start right up no matter how cold and they don't give off much fumes. The down side to them is in humid/temperature changing weather, the distributor will typically get moisture under it and cause the engine to not start until you dry it out manually. Also with propane the fuel system parts tend to be a little pricey. Another thing with propane is if the forklift gets left out in the rain or gets washed, some are not very tolerant of water at all, the new CAT propane comes to mind, which are made by Mitsubishi. Diesel forklifts tend to be pretty bullet proof and forgiving on up keep and water. From experience only, the problems I see the most are hydraulic leaks, electrical problems from everyone hacking on everything, and a general lack of up keep. The new CAT forklifts are made by Mitsubishi and are identical, the old CAT's are made by Daewoo and are identical, the Clark forklifts are a real pain to work on due to design, very tight spots to get into. Any asian brand of forklift will use metric flare fittings on the engine/transmission so if work needs to be done the part has to be ordered, and some even use metric hydraulic fittings which NO ONE carries in stock!!!!!!!!!! Gasoline forklifts are a non stop pain to start and give off fumes like no tomorrow, and a forklift by use typically sits up for long times so the carburetor is always getting clogged.

Things to look for when buying...
-check the engine area, broken/cut wires are normal on older units along with lots of dirt, but any new shiny oily spot is a new leak that needs repair
-check the hydraulics, old hoses with falling off rubber from wear will probably need changing before too long, any hydraulic cylinder leak will require the cyclinder to be taken apart. Raise the forks with a load and let them sit in the air for a few minutes, if they drift down or forward then there is a leak internally that needs fixing
-check tires, on a "cushion tire" forklift the tires are solid rubber and can be driven until they are worn down, on a "air/foam tire" they have to be of decent condition or will need changing
-check under the dash/steering wheel area, this is where you will find most of the electrical hacks from everyone and their brother
-if possible, check the flywheel ring gear, if the ring gear teeth are damaged, the engine MUST be pulled in order to replace it. Typically the ring gear will always have 2 spots where the engine will always stop at and this is where most of the chipped teeth will occur.
-if possible, check the fuel tank if its a diesel or gasoline, the fuel tanks are built into the frame and over the years LOTS of rust and trash will collect and clog the fuel system, which requires the tank to be drained and washed out

 

[bsg]

After wasting 2 years of my life working on forklifts (my boss was weird) I can honestly say from experience that up to around 4,000 pounds or so, go electric. Only thing that gets pricey with them is the battery, so make sure the battery is able to hold a charge before buying. Any more that around 4,000 pounds I would get a diesel preferably. Whats nice about a propane forklift is they always start right up no matter how cold and they don't give off much fumes. The down side to them is in humid/temperature changing weather, the distributor will typically get moisture under it and cause the engine to not start until you dry it out manually. Also with propane the fuel system parts tend to be a little pricey. Another thing with propane is if the forklift gets left out in the rain or gets washed, some are not very tolerant of water at all, the new CAT propane comes to mind, which are made by Mitsubishi. Diesel forklifts tend to be pretty bullet proof and forgiving on up keep and water. From experience only, the problems I see the most are hydraulic leaks, electrical problems from everyone hacking on everything, and a general lack of up keep. The new CAT forklifts are made by Mitsubishi and are identical, the old CAT's are made by Daewoo and are identical, the Clark forklifts are a real pain to work on due to design, very tight spots to get into. Any asian brand of forklift will use metric flare fittings on the engine/transmission so if work needs to be done the part has to be ordered, and some even use metric hydraulic fittings which NO ONE carries in stock!!!!!!!!!! Gasoline forklifts are a non stop pain to start and give off fumes like no tomorrow, and a forklift by use typically sits up for long times so the carburetor is always getting clogged.

Things to look for when buying...
-check the engine area, broken/cut wires are normal on older units along with lots of dirt, but any new shiny oily spot is a new leak that needs repair
-check the hydraulics, old hoses with falling off rubber from wear will probably need changing before too long, any hydraulic cylinder leak will require the cyclinder to be taken apart. Raise the forks with a load and let them sit in the air for a few minutes, if they drift down or forward then there is a leak internally that needs fixing
-check tires, on a "cushion tire" forklift the tires are solid rubber and can be driven until they are worn down, on a "air/foam tire" they have to be of decent condition or will need changing
-check under the dash/steering wheel area, this is where you will find most of the electrical hacks from everyone and their brother
-if possible, check the flywheel ring gear, if the ring gear teeth are damaged, the engine MUST be pulled in order to replace it. Typically the ring gear will always have 2 spots where the engine will always stop at and this is where most of the chipped teeth will occur.
-if possible, check the fuel tank if its a diesel or gasoline, the fuel tanks are built into the frame and over the years LOTS of rust and trash will collect and clog the fuel system, which requires the tank to be drained and washed out

Don't by electric for moving machines.......

Every electric lift I have used including new Toyota's, you can't feather the throttle.

With some propane lifts you can use the brake and gas at the same time trying to maneuver over bumps to keep the load from moving.

I would look at Hyster, but not the Monotrol.
Don't get a diesel for indoor use, you will hate it and it's harder for resale if needed later.

I would look at the 80's model Hyster XL model lifts, will lift their weight with enough counterbalance.

I've had a newer 8,000 lb. Cat lift, sold it after I kept hitting my knees getting in an out of the seat a few times.
Both Hyster's I owned an S25 and S80 have plenty of room to get in and out of.

Keep in mid the lift will weight in at 1.5 times the lift capacity.

Get the side shift as well if you can, it can be a lifesaver.

Kevin

 

[Heavymetalmechanic]

The older Toyota 5000lbs duel fuel gas/propane lifts are pretty bulletproof and can be rented from most rental shops. I recommend trying a few different sizes out before buying if you have the budget.

 

[dr_clyde]

I have seen older Hysters and Mistubishi lifts go though hell and back. I would get a pneumatic tired, propane Mitsubishi if it was me. I like to be able to lift at least 5000 pounds.

 

[muibubbles]

Long time no see! Hope all is well in your neck of the woods.

A few questions:

What kind of floor and exterior surfaces do your current and new places have?

What's the largest machine you'd like to move?

Thanks! After a year of hunting I finally found a spot! 15,000 sq ft out building orginially used to raise chickens!!! Floors are concrete slabs in GREAT condition. Outside is gravel =( Largest machine size will be around a vertical mill/lathe/industrial sand blast cabinet stuff. (well for now right? )

Bubble: i too would love a fork lift, but i am leasing so going to wait until i own my own shop. i did find this Jet pallet jack that is working well to get pretty heavy things off my trailer and when i drop the pallet to the ground i have a pallet jack to move it around the shop or property.

i also had these Vermette lifts for a little lighter loads on pallets but they limit out around 500-1000 pounds.

like Apmech says how heavy are the items you are moving.

i would like to hear what the best fork lifts are for value and a small shop so when i'm ready to buy one i'll know what a good deal is.

Thanks for the suggestion, I was looking into this as well, but this would be only useful moving machinery around the shop. I'd like something to help unload stuff from the trailer (to allow me to buy more ludicrous machinery I'll never use ahhaa) IE I was using a pallet jack and my friends "landscaping" trailer last night to load stuff on and it was a nightmare. The wheels kept getting caught up on the ramp

After wasting 2 years of my life working on forklifts (my boss was weird) I can honestly say from experience that up to around 4,000 pounds or so, go electric. Only thing that gets pricey with them is the battery, so make sure the battery is able to hold a charge before buying. Any more that around 4,000 pounds I would get a diesel preferably. Whats nice about a propane forklift is they always start right up no matter how cold and they don't give off much fumes. The down side to them is in humid/temperature changing weather, the distributor will typically get moisture under it and cause the engine to not start until you dry it out manually. Also with propane the fuel system parts tend to be a little pricey. Another thing with propane is if the forklift gets left out in the rain or gets washed, some are not very tolerant of water at all, the new CAT propane comes to mind, which are made by Mitsubishi. Diesel forklifts tend to be pretty bullet proof and forgiving on up keep and water. From experience only, the problems I see the most are hydraulic leaks, electrical problems from everyone hacking on everything, and a general lack of up keep. The new CAT forklifts are made by Mitsubishi and are identical, the old CAT's are made by Daewoo and are identical, the Clark forklifts are a real pain to work on due to design, very tight spots to get into. Any asian brand of forklift will use metric flare fittings on the engine/transmission so if work needs to be done the part has to be ordered, and some even use metric hydraulic fittings which NO ONE carries in stock!!!!!!!!!! Gasoline forklifts are a non stop pain to start and give off fumes like no tomorrow, and a forklift by use typically sits up for long times so the carburetor is always getting clogged.

Things to look for when buying...
-check the engine area, broken/cut wires are normal on older units along with lots of dirt, but any new shiny oily spot is a new leak that needs repair
-check the hydraulics, old hoses with falling off rubber from wear will probably need changing before too long, any hydraulic cylinder leak will require the cyclinder to be taken apart. Raise the forks with a load and let them sit in the air for a few minutes, if they drift down or forward then there is a leak internally that needs fixing
-check tires, on a "cushion tire" forklift the tires are solid rubber and can be driven until they are worn down, on a "air/foam tire" they have to be of decent condition or will need changing
-check under the dash/steering wheel area, this is where you will find most of the electrical hacks from everyone and their brother
-if possible, check the flywheel ring gear, if the ring gear teeth are damaged, the engine MUST be pulled in order to replace it. Typically the ring gear will always have 2 spots where the engine will always stop at and this is where most of the chipped teeth will occur.
-if possible, check the fuel tank if its a diesel or gasoline, the fuel tanks are built into the frame and over the years LOTS of rust and trash will collect and clog the fuel system, which requires the tank to be drained and washed out

THANKS! great info, I'm gonna print that out and use it as a check list =)

Don't by electric for moving machines.......

Every electric lift I have used including new Toyota's, you can't feather the throttle.

With some propane lifts you can use the brake and gas at the same time trying to maneuver over bumps to keep the load from moving.

I would look at Hyster, but not the Monotrol.
Don't get a diesel for indoor use, you will hate it and it's harder for resale if needed later.

I would look at the 80's model Hyster XL model lifts, will lift their weight with enough counterbalance.

I've had a newer 8,000 lb. Cat lift, sold it after I kept hitting my knees getting in an out of the seat a few times.
Both Hyster's I owned an S25 and S80 have plenty of room to get in and out of.

Keep in mid the lift will weight in at 1.5 times the lift capacity.

Get the side shift as well if you can, it can be a lifesaver.

Kevin

Cool- i'll see if any pop up in the upcoming auctions!

IF I plan to go electric, how much do the batteries/battery chargers run around? A quick search and it seems like the batteries are right around the cost of car batteries and the charger is 1000-1500 range? Can someone confirm please!

 

[Short Round]

Just a dumb thought that may not fit your situation at all.

Would a used compact tractor with a bucket or forks work for you? I mean if you can also use a tractor for the property and business for general maintenance.

A used JD or other tractor with a pair of bucket arms and a quick detach style bucket and forks is what i had in mind. I say this as a Kubota owner with a B3200 with front end loader. My mistake was not knowing enough to get the QD type bucket arms so I'm stuck with a bucket and clamp on forks versus the better fork set up.

That way you have a fork lift, a landscape machine, a large lawnmower etc.

Just a thought.

 

[muibubbles]

Also what is the lift span of fork lifts in "hours"? What is considered high hours for these? IE. Is "17,648 Metered Hours" a lot?

 

[Ign]

Side shift and 2 stage mast would be on my wish list.

 

[cowboy73]

Be careful driving around on gravel with a forklift unless it's really packed down well. Getting stuck ain't no fun and it's pretty tough to pull out of a hole. We occasionally got ours stuck at the lumber yard. A loaded 26,000 lb. flatbed truck could barely pull out a stuck lift. A forklift with sink pretty fast. A side shift and thin forks come in real handy.

 

[gearhead1]

Just a dumb thought that may not fit your situation at all.

Would a used compact tractor with a bucket or forks work for you? I mean if you can also use a tractor for the property and business for general maintenance.

A used JD or other tractor with a pair of bucket arms and a quick detach style bucket and forks is what i had in mind. I say this as a Kubota owner with a B3200 with front end loader. My mistake was not knowing enough to get the QD type bucket arms so I'm stuck with a bucket and clamp on forks versus the better fork set up.

That way you have a fork lift, a landscape machine, a large lawnmower etc.

Just a thought.

+1. I have a 4110 Mahindra with a front end loader that makes short work of anything I need to move or lift. If you're running a business, a forklift may be the way to go. If for home use, I'd consider a tractor, they can be used for so many more things than lifting.

 

[spotco2]

If you are not going to have a use for it after the move, look into renting one for a week or three and buy a manual pallet jack for just moving stuff around once it's inside. Compare rates of the local dealerships with the rental companies as they can be very competitive. Also ask about getting one as a demo. Some dealers will demo for a day or two if they think there is any chance that you will buy a new one at some point.

I like the CAT/Mitsubishi, Hyster and Toyota lift trucks personally in that order. If you are going to be running inside and outside look at a pneumatic tire LP machine. Sideshift is a must. Stay away from solid tire or cushion tire if you are going to be driving across gravel or grass because they have very poor traction in these conditions.

 

[dr_clyde]

Just FYI, it takes one hell of a bucket tractor to lift any loads over 2000 pounds or so. It was all our mid-sized john deere could do to lift a bridgeport, and almost any forklift wouldn't sweat that weight.

Most machine tools of any substance weigh at least a ton. There's also the maneuverability to consider. A medium sized forklift can move around a shop way better than a tractor.

If you get the pneumatic tires, the gravel isn't a problem. Neither is snow. You can also get dual wheel kits for forklifts to assist in traction outside.

Tractors are super useful around an estate or property. They don't hold a candle to a forklift for moving machinery, unloading steel off a semi, getting around a shop, ect.

 

[RPH]

Depending on what's needed to be moved but a front end loader on the Mahindra above can only lift 1972# at the pins. So anything on the forks will be less. To get a higher lift weight means larger tractor. A dedicated fork truck will lift more and do it safer. Also be much more maneuverable in tight areas.

 

[bsg]

You have to be even more cautious with the tractor when moving things close to its capacity!

I have a John Deere 110TLB and have used it to move stuff around.

I had a loaded bin slide sideways on the forks and it lifted one of the rear tires a foot off the ground, damn near crapped my pants, thank God it didn't roll over.

One of the problems with using a tractor to move heavy objects is the front suspension, I would stick with a forklift.

Kevin

 

[mech-tech]

To answer the other questions from the OP, the life span of a forklift is as long as it will keep going. Seeing one come in the shop that was from the 1960's was not unusual, these were built before roll over cabs were required and had single rear tires. Very unsafe, but typical for the time. Other things I forgot to mention are that a LOT of forklifts have brake problems. Usually if the brakes don't work it is due to the drum brakes on the drive axle being rusted stuck or more commonly the entire brake system leaking everywhere. You can pretty much figure if you get on a forklift and hit the brakes and the pedal goes to the floor, it needs a brake job, which consists of the drive tires being pulled off, the brake drums being pulled, the inner axle shaft being pulled, and the entire drum brake assembly being replaced including the wheel cyclinders, along with the park brake cables and usually the master cyclinder. From start to finish, a brake job usually took me around 7 hours with final adjustments, and this was steady work without stopping. Nothing hard to do, just messy. Another thing I forgot to mention is to check the forks for wear, this is done by physically looking at the lower back corner of the forks (heel) and comparing the thickness of the fork itself to the thickness of the fork about a foot further forward of the heel. Some people have a bad habit of dragging the forks on the ground and over time if the back heel of the fork get worn down to the point of being almost half the thickness of the rest of the fork, then you take a chance at bending it...and once they bend they need to be replaced. Also check where the forklift is parked, it does not take long for a leak to hit the ground. Check the steer cylinder on the back axle, and all cyclinders on the front mast. If you find a forklift you considering, post some pics and I can give you an idea of what to look for, some models tended to have strange re-occurring problems...like the newer style Hysters with the gm vortec engines. As for the electric forklift batteries, if it uses the large bank of batteries, these can easily get into the $2,000 range for new...so this is where parts can get very expensive.

 

[malbojah]

Other things I forgot to mention are that a LOT of forklifts have brake problems. Usually if the brakes don't work it is due to the drum brakes on the drive axle being rusted stuck or more commonly the entire brake system leaking everywhere. You can pretty much figure if you get on a forklift and hit the brakes and the pedal goes to the floor, it needs a brake job, which consists of the drive tires being pulled off, the brake drums being pulled, the inner axle shaft being pulled, and the entire drum brake assembly being replaced including the wheel cyclinders, along with the park brake cables and usually the master cyclinder. From start to finish, a brake job usually took me around 7 hours with final adjustments, and this was steady work without stopping. Nothing hard to do, just messy.

Damn, I need you to come and work on my fathers Hyster S40E that has no brakes and a leaking mast cylinder. After reading that, no way am I tackling it.

 

[ishiboo]

Just a dumb thought that may not fit your situation at all.

Would a used compact tractor with a bucket or forks work for you? I mean if you can also use a tractor for the property and business for general maintenance.

A used JD or other tractor with a pair of bucket arms and a quick detach style bucket and forks is what i had in mind. I say this as a Kubota owner with a B3200 with front end loader. My mistake was not knowing enough to get the QD type bucket arms so I'm stuck with a bucket and clamp on forks versus the better fork set up.

That way you have a fork lift, a landscape machine, a large lawnmower etc.

Just a thought.

Compact tractors have much lower lift capacities and take up a LOT more space to work. But yeah they are definitely more versatile if you can work with those limitations.

Why are you stuck with the clamp-on forks? Get a quick attach kit from Titan to convert your loader over to SSQA, and buy some real forks.

 

[justme-]

fwiw we have a Nissan Optimum 50 double stack with side shift propane. From what I see they've had it a long time (10 plus years) with minimal issues, and it lives outside most of the time - used in all weather and stored indoors when closed or in really bad weather if someone's not in the seat.