Need help choosing a riding mower

[rockinacummins]

Hello folks. I'm in the market for a riding mower (my first by the way). And I think I've narrowed my search down to 2 - though I'm not stuck on these by any means. I know I'm getting a conventional - no money, need, or correct yard for a zero turn. As for my yard, I have 1.5 acres on a hill. I mean a steep hill. On three of the four sides. So here's the machines I'm looking at:

This Troy Bilt is my first pick. I liked the price compared to the others I looked at, and I know Troy bilt used to be a really solid machine. I like the hydrostatic transmission, the color, and the size of the machine overall. I also love the kohler engine. However, I'm skeptical after hearing of this model having issues with throwing belts off, leaking engine oil, and having starting issues.



Next is my wife's pick. It's a little bigger than the Troy bilt, I like the three blade configuration and the larger size of the machine itself. My wife loves it because of the color and the arm rests (yes she will use it as often as I will for various things). I have nothing against Briggs engines, in fact I have been a big fan of their engines for a long time. I'm just not familiar with these new engines to know if they are as good as they used to be. The husqvarna also has better reviews on forums and other distributor websites and looks to be heavier built. I know the previous model of this machine was hydrostatic, with this model being automatic. From what I understand, the automatic is a simpler design that can be reapaired easily if anything is to go awry. The price is significantly higher - at the very top of my budget.



So what opinions do you have of these machines? Pros and cons of each? Would either be a good investment? Thanks in advance!

 

[Dr Stan]

Take a close look at the actual manufacturer. Many riders & garden tractors are made by MTD with only a brand name change. Even my 24hp Cub was made by MTD which BTW is a very good small GT.

 

[vavet]

For 1.5 acre, I'd encourage you to look at a pro-Sumer unit instead of these big box store models. Visit a real equipment dealer for a husqvarna, John Deere, or cub cadet. JD is the color of money for a reason. I really wanted a JD last year, but didn't want to buy a unit that would last 4 years at Lowes and I didn't want to spend $3200 on the dealer level. I need up finding a cub cadet gt50 xt1 model (xt1 is the big box store, xt2 is the dealer level), but being a gt50, it's a heavy duty version of the big box store with an upgraded transaxle, 26 hp v-twin, and 50" deck. It still has sleeve bearings instead of ball bearings for the wheels, but I feel like for the low speeds a lawn tractor sees, it's probably ok. I have a 1 acre lot with grass on probably 1/2 acre.

Other resources you might find helpful:
Mytractorforum.com
Tractordata.com

You'll find lots of bashing of the k46 transaxle. It's very popular and has a lot of reported failures. It was enough to concern me, but it might be fine. The proliferation of complaints might be due to how common they are. My cub cadet has the k58 transaxle.

 

[rockinacummins]

Take a close look at the actual manufacturer. Many riders & garden tractors are made by MTD with only a brand name change. Even my 24hp Cub was made by MTD which BTW is a very good small GT.

I did look into this - as far as I understand, Troy built is built by MTD and Husqvarna is built by themselves

 

[67King]

Steep hill? Forget those styles, you can't brake. You'll just keep going downhill with a foot on the brake, and the less loaded wheel spinning backwards as you go careening downhill. If you are more fortunate than me, you'll never have it flip on you.

I lucked out and got a refurbished Toro zero turn for $1800 a couple of years ago. Much, much better and safer than the POS John Deere it replaced

 

[reynoj3]

I have the yta24v48 and I mow not quite 2 acres on the side of a steep hill. I've run mine for two seasons with no issues. Mine did come with the reinforced deck and I got it for 1899 at the end of the season. Maintenance is easy and it always starts right up

Will it last as long as the dealer only models, nope. But that was what was in the cards at the time.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

 

[kd3pc]

vavet and 67KIng are on the money, nothing but flat land for these two, as well as the acreage...these machines will have to flat out all the time to mow that much. And use a fair amount of gasoline in doing so.

I would get a used machine from an equipment dealer.

The troy bilt is a disaster and throwing belts will be the least of your problems. Mowing the +1 acre - make sure your dealer can get it repaired/warranted in a week or two (most homeowner machines are repaired "as time permits" until all the commercial and farm work is done.

No experience with husqvarna mowing machines...but I would take it over the Troy, given my experience.

 

[Bert_]

My advice would be to look at better mowers, even if that means a used one. Those models they sell at the box stores just don't last everything about them is cheaply made. Get a well build unit and it will last 20 years.

 

[rockinacummins]

For 1.5 acre, I'd encourage you to look at a pro-Sumer unit instead of these big box store models. Visit a real equipment dealer for a husqvarna, John Deere, or cub cadet. JD is the color of money for a reason. I really wanted a JD last year, but didn't want to buy a unit that would last 4 years at Lowes and I didn't want to spend $3200 on the dealer level. I need up finding a cub cadet gt50 xt1 model (xt1 is the big box store, xt2 is the dealer level), but being a gt50, it's a heavy duty version of the big box store with an upgraded transaxle, 26 hp v-twin, and 50" deck. It still has sleeve bearings instead of ball bearings for the wheels, but I feel like for the low speeds a lawn tractor sees, it's probably ok. I have a 1 acre lot with grass on probably 1/2 acre.

Other resources you might find helpful:
Mytractorforum.com
Tractordata.com

You'll find lots of bashing of the k46 transaxle. It's very popular and has a lot of reported failures. It was enough to concern me, but it might be fine. The proliferation of complaints might be due to how common they are. My cub cadet has the k58 transaxle.

Tractor supply sells the xt1 model for $2k. I actually like it better than these two I posted:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...s-50-in-24-hp-v-twin-hydrostatic-riding-mower

 

[jakemac]

Unless you go with a John Deere, any other brand you buy will be built by either Husqvarna or more likely MTD. Go for the JD or the Husqy. MTD has been cheapening all their brands for years.

Poulan Pro is made by Husqvarna, but the motors aren't as good. But then, I blew mine out mowing 3' grass one too many times over 7yrs, so take that with a grain of salt.

I prefer B&S motors, not because they're superior (they're not) but because they're easier to tinker with and get parts. B&S motors used to be tanks, but the newer ones have been getting worse the past 10yrs (maybe 20 now).

I know that you don't want to spend the money, but for steep hills I'd still recommend a zero turn. They have a wider stance and better brakes. What was said about riders on a hill is correct, it's Mr Toads Wild Ride. You can only safely mow going uphill, but only if you can get the traction.

Don't forget to search the used market. You can get more machine for the money that way, but don't buy from a landscaper. Chances are they're only selling because the machine is worn out.

 

[rockinacummins]

I would buy used, but this far I haven't found anything used in my area that didn't belong to a landscaping company.

I understand there are better brands, and yes I would love to have something like that, but I'm on a $2k budget...

 

[doityerself]

I used to have a craftsman with the briggs engine and it was just trouble. Lots of people say the smaller b/s engines are good but get over about 12 hp they dont last. I have a husqvarna now with the 24hp and 48 cut. The Kohler engine. I don't have anything bad to say about it yet. Ok for a few years. Time will tell. No problems so far. I cut about 1.5 acres and I'm sort of rough on it. I don't know more about Kohler.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Claluja]

If you have steep hills, I'd avoid a sit down mower as someone else indicated above. Consider a stand-on mower like Wright, for a lower center of gravity on hills.

 

[Technologyteacher]

I have a John Deere mower that looks like a Forrest Gump mower. I know the mowers from big box stores are not the same quality as the ones from equipment dealers. That being said my Parents and sister have a Husky from lowes and have had no issues with it.

 

[wildbill23c]

Unless you go to a dealer and buy one from a dealer you are getting the same thing with different paint colors and decals. I've got a Craftsman YT4000 right now and in the 7 years I've had it, its been far more trouble than its been worth. My lawn is flat and only about 1 acre. Terrible engine issues and I've always had good luck with B&S engines up until this one. Next mower will be a SCAG walk behind. The new mowers on the market are just plain garbage and absolutely no customer support. If my uncle's 26 year old SCAG with some severe use can still start and cut grass and stripe after being abused by my cousin most of those years I think I'm gonna throw the money into a commercial walk behind rather than the consumer ****.

 

[KEH]

2 Kohler engines--the "Courage " model is homeowner quality, the "Command" model is commercial.

KEH

 

[ncboat]

Second stay away from the troybilt throwing belts is the current problem. From my vantage point look at the Raptor by Hustler that Lowes sells,
. It is a special order mower so you won't see any on the floor. It is a well built zero turn with a heavier frame than either troybilt or deere and a welded heavy deck not stamped like the above two. It retails for 2800 for a 42" deck and with one of the 10 percent deals gets close to you budget. If you are a veteran maybe another 10% .

 

[D45]

I have a 42" deck for my half acre..........lol

It is a Craftsman T3000 20390 and its made by Husqvarna

A lot of Craftsman mowers have MDT tags all over them, not mine

The motor is a 22HP Briggs & Stratton, (large 724cc) 2-cylinder gasoline

I found a lot of 42" mowers with a single piston motor and very underpowered

This has a 1" to 4" cut height with 6 positions

I have been very happy with it for the past 3 years.....was only $1399 on sale

I would definitely not go any smaller than 48" for 1.5 acres

 

[mrobins297aaa]

I've had the Husqvarna yth2454, it has the 24hp Briggs and 54" cut mower.
I've had it for 10 years and it's been a pile of junk. I could never buy another one, as a matter of fact 2 years ago when I needed a chain saw I couldn't even get myself to by a Husqvarna chain saw because of that tractor and I know they make good chain saws. I ended up buying a stihl.

 

[emort007]

You need a tractor with a k66 trans for steep hills if you want it to last for more than 40 hours. The Husqvarna GT52xlsi is a good tractor for steep hills and has a locking diff.

For more info on what tractor you really need, this youtube video is a great place to see what all the different types actually can and can't do

 

[James-W]

I have a really old Craftsman with a 16hp Kohler engine on it. Must have gotten it around the early 80's and it still works great. Only problem with it in all those years, other than routine maintenance like oil changes and filters and a couple sets of blades, was the plastic fuel tank developed a crack and I had to replace it for $22 plus tax. I have no idea what the new Craftsman mowers are like.

 

[sucking chest wound]

If you don't know what you are doing, you can hurt yourself really quickly with a lawn tractor on a steep lot. Whatever you buy, please take it carefully.

I live on a small, but relatively steep lot. I have John Deere X324 (the 4-wheel steer version of the X320). Not a cheap tractor ($4500-ish when I bought it a few years ago), but I haven't rolled it yet. With nice power (it's a v-twin) and 4 wheel steering, you can quickly correct iffy situations.

Mow straight up and down the hill, never sideways, and especially never sideways on wet or damp grass. When these rigs start to slide you can be wearing them as a hat in a heart beat.

 

[gotmud13613]

Craftsman,Husqvarna,Poulan and low end Ariens are all made by AYP
Yard Man, Yard Machines, cub cadet made by MTD
Troy built, Noma made by Murray

I work on these daily and I personally would choose a gear transmission over a hydrostatic anytime especially for hilly terrain, it keeps a steady speed versus having to keep bumping the hydro lever going up a hill. AYP seem to be the most durable for a lower cost machine. Plus parts are very reasonably priced.

Just my .02 cents

 

[MrGiggles]

Craftsman,Husqvarna,Poulan and low end Ariens are all made by AYP
Yard Man, Yard Machines, cub cadet made by MTD
Troy built, Noma made by Murray

I work on these daily and I personally would choose a gear transmission over a hydrostatic anytime especially for hilly terrain, it keeps a steady speed versus having to keep bumping the hydro lever going up a hill. AYP seem to be the most durable for a lower cost machine. Plus parts are very reasonably priced.

Just my .02 cents

Not 100% correct.

Troy Bilt is most definitely MTD, unless they have changed hands again recently.

Murray is part of Briggs and Stratton, along with Snapper and Simplicity. I'm convinced that they're affiliated with MTD though.

AYP was absorbed by the Husqvarna conglomerate. All of those brands are considered to be owned by them.

I'd rather have a Husqvarna machine than an MTD, but that's just me. I have an MTD right now that cuts grass just like it was intended to do.

For a machine that only needs to cut grass, I'd opt for a zero turn. Try one and you'll never go back. They'll pull a cart and do some minor chores too.

 

[Jazz1]

Consider a vintage tractor then you have another hobby. I like my Mighty Sears SS16. Its practical, cuts grass, blows snow and drags projects around.

 

[James-W]

For a machine that only needs to cut grass, I'd opt for a zero turn. Try one and you'll never go back. They'll pull a cart and do some minor chores too.

A good friend of mine had one and he loved it. He had a big house and large shed on four acres in the country and he enjoyed mowing his lawn with it every weekend. Unfortunately, he had a massive heart attack and died about ten years ago. I miss him a lot.

 

[redmondjp]

I work on these daily and I personally would choose a gear transmission over a hydrostatic anytime especially for hilly terrain, it keeps a steady speed versus having to keep bumping the hydro lever going up a hill. AYP seem to be the most durable for a lower cost machine. Plus parts are very reasonably priced.

Which consumer-grade or pro-sumer models even have true gear transmissions any longer? They may say that they have a fixed number of speeds, but they are likely continuously-variable transmissions underneath with some numbers placed along the speed control on top.

I agree with the others above - get a garden tractor (GT) as opposed to a lawn tractor (box stores and lower-end John Deeres). Go to your nearest Cub Cadet dealer and let them show you the difference. If they have a used garden tractor (model name will have a 'G' in it) in good condition for under $2500, I'd go with that instead. It will outlast the consumer-grade ones that you are looking at by 2-3X.

A true hydrostatic transmission will give you good speed control downhill, but as already stated, you don't want one of the consumer-grade ones as they don't last very long, and your steep hills will kill one even more quickly. I've got two older riding mowers with bulletproof hydrostatic transaxles: a John Deere GT235 and a Honda 4514H (that I picked after a lot of online mower forum lurking).

 

[rockinacummins]

Looks like I need to keep researching... I know the previous owner of the property used a Kubota subcompact tractor with turf tires to mow the hillside. If I could find something like that, that would be ideal. 3cyl diesel, turf tires, belly mower.

 

[Coach James]

I friend of mine got tired of, every two years, wearing out a Murray, MTD or whatever Lowes was selling for $1000-$1,400. He has 14 acres he cuts.

He finally spent the money on a good zero turn and has been using it for ~12 years now. It cost him about $4,000 up front, but he would have spent $6,000-$9,000 on riders during that time.

Coach

 

[CJM8515]

After my father owning 3 craftsmens, absolute garbage. The one blew up 3 weeks from the time it was delivered, the 3rd one cam let go somehow within 6 months and the 2nd one the steering gears stripped out which is what # 3has been doing. #3 they gave my dad a free motor.

Id sooner go on craigslist and find a real john deere or an older simplicty. I would only buy a garden tractor and hills I wouldnt dare do with a tractor unless they arent steep. Personally a good commercial walk behind is best for those. Dont be afraid to buy used from the mower shop. The mower might not look that nice but they are built 10x beter than anything you can buy at sears or any other big box store.

The only sears tractor I thought worthwhile was the one my grandfather had made in the early 80's. 25hp, garden tractor and heavy duty. Sure dont build them like that anymore.

 

[bpjr]

Inside your budget the mowers are going to be about the same but in different colors and names. Like said already, the lower end hydro trans have a short life on hills, whether its a zero turn or not.

I have a Scotts by John Deer which is the homeowner version and the same as a John Deer Saber. Appears to be heavier built than most big box store brands. It's a 1999 and held up very well mowing 4 yards for the first half of its life and after that my 1.5 acres. The front wheel bushings wore out and safety switches stopped working so I by passed them. Single cyl Briggs full pressure lube engine. Gear drive and I use it to haul rocks, dirt, tow 20' boats around the yard and other stuff. My only complaint with Deere is having to pay 2X for the parts and no other dealers will touch it for repair or have parts. For service or parts I have to drive 40 miles to the closest JD dealer. For that reason alone I wouldn't do anything JD again. I'm looking to buy a new mower soon and the only game in town with a manual gear drive is a Sears for about $1600. It has the same transmission as my Scotts and a full pressure lube Briggs. This one is built by Husqvarna but some Sears models have MTD tags. Several of my neighbors have big box store riders and their mowers are anywhere from 5-15 yrs old without problems, so I'm willing to take a chance with Sears.

 

[jwsia]

Don't buy junk. Buy a garden tractor CUT or a commercial ZT. I know its gonna cost more but youll be glad you did in the long run. I bought this one last summer and have made it my GT for my 1 acre lot. It is a 1991 model it has 60" PTO deck, 54 inch 4 way blade. I bought it for a 1000 with a loose valve seat. I chose to spend the money on a new Honda power unit. A real GT like this will last for many years.

It doenst need to be Deere, just a real GT. Simplicity, real Cub Cadets, etc. Also if your just gonna mow a used front mount might be a good idea. Look for Toro Groundsmaster on CL.

 

[junkyardwarrior]

Add the John Deere LA series to the list of garbage too, right in line with Craftsman, Troy-Bilt, etc.

The JD uses almost the same components, cheap frame, cheap plastic hoods that cost a fortune to replace WHEN they break (not "if"), cheap pulleys, cheap transmission, etc. I worked at a JD dealer from 1991 or 2 through 2006. In the late 1990's and very early 2000's, JD switched to "mass marketing" techniques, meaning that Lowes, Home Depot, some wal-mart stores, etc were carrying John Deere mowers-the cheaper ones (L100 series). But for them to handle John Deere, JD had to get the price down to compete with MTD's and Crapsman's. How are they gonna get the price down? Cheapen the mower up....

None of them are junk really. Unfortunately I saw it way too often where guys would buy a craftsman and mow 5 acres with it. And buy a new mower every 3-4-5 years because the last one was completely shot. Seen it many many times, hundreds of times actually. I would consider the aformentioned mowers 1 acre or less and 10-50 hours a year usage max. Used and maintained responsibly, they'll last a while. But you can't get crazy with them, like mowing commercially, mowing really rough areas, bouncing off of curbs and tree stumps, etc. You have to be mindful.

One of my favorite homeowner mowers was the old John Deere LX100 series (LX172, 176, 178, 186 and 188). Of those my favorite were the liquid cooled V-twins, the LX176 and LX188. Super smooth, plenty of torque, sips fuel, comfortable, quiet, and cool old mowers. Excellent quality and really easy to service and maintain. The downside is that they're almost impossible to find used with a good hood-and the hood if you have to buy all pieces, is about $800. And it's plastic too...which will break again. Ya gotta treat the hood like a fine wineglass because it's really fragile, as are all of the JD hoods (including some of the tractors). I had a LX188 for a number of years and absolutely loved it until I had to buy a hood.

 

[Ancient Iron]

Consider a vintage tractor then you have another hobby. I like my Mighty Sears SS16. Its practical, cuts grass, blows snow and drags projects around.

I agree with Jazz. I have a 1969 narrow frame Cub Cadet 125 Hydrostatic with a 48" three blade deck (Built way before MTD destroyed the name). When I bought it needed work, I now use it to mow my lawn and for all the abuse this particular machine has seen in it's life, I must say they are built like tanks. If you can find a decent one you won't be disappointed

 

[Sunset_Z28]

I've had the 22hp horse xp for over 3 years now and I've been pretty happy with it. I mow a pretty flat acre weekly with it and the only issues I've had with it is a squeaky front end and a valve cover leak. I think the front end definitely could've been made a little better. There is some slop in the steering wheel. If you keep it greased it stays quiet. The oil leak started after roughly 3 years. The first time I replaced it I made my own gasket out of gasket material and it leaked shortly after. After I purchased the kohler gasket it hasn't leaked since. Another thing I don't particularly care for is the fact that the headlights aren't sealed and they're on all the time. I'm. It sure if this is true with the newer models. After washing it you have to remove the lenses to clean dirt and stuff from behind them. I eventually changed mine over to led to cut down on the heat and they look pretty cool. I think the husqvarna is a better mower but the price on the Troy bilt isn't bad. One more thing, don't bother with the bagger. Like every other bagger I've used it's a piece of junk.

 

[ShumanSS6.0]

Rockin,
Based off the previous owners equipment, sounds like some terrain that the box store mowers aren't anywhere near capable of handling. Something along these lines would be as close to a subcompact at your price point;

https://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/grd/5999104659.html

as long as you don't mind some maintenance on an older machine, this will allow you time to save up funds for a newer and more capable machine. This is what I would be doing in your situation.

 

[James-W]

Rockin,
Based off the previous owners equipment, sounds like some terrain that the box store mowers aren't anywhere near capable of handling. Something along these lines would be as close to a subcompact at your price point;

https://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/grd/5999104659.html

as long as you don't mind some maintenance on an older machine, this will allow you time to save up funds for a newer and more capable machine. This is what I would be doing in your situation.

I see the mower in the link runs on diesel rather than gasoline. Is there a particular reason why a diesel mower would be a better choice? I can understand why a diesel engine would be much better for some applications, but why is better for a riding lawnmower? I understand that the one in the link is a garden tractor and can do a lot more work than just cut the grass. But that aside, the opening poster wants a lawnmower so I have to assume all he really wants is something to cut the grass. I am just curious as to the reasoning for getting a diesel versus a gasoline engine on a lawnmower. Not saying you are wrong, just curious as to the reasoning behind it.

 

[94EG8]

2 Kohler engines--the "Courage " model is homeowner quality, the "Command" model is commercial.

The joke about the "Courage" used to be that it took courage to own one. They're built upside down and the bolts used to back out of the top cover and they would shake themselves to pieces. They're absolute junk.

Of the two machines the Husqvarna is light years ahead of the Troy-Bilt. Built better, easier to work on, and they don't throw and eat belts.

 

[bpjr]

A little off topic but I was at a sod farm a couple weeks ago buying sod. Cub Cadet uses this place every day as a testing ground for all types of mowers. They must of had 40-50 mowers out cutting at the same time. I was impressed to see them testing like this.

 

[jshillin]

If you have a steep hill, nothing considered a simple riding lawnmower will last with a hydrostatic.. They are not built to handle that abuse. You'll have to buy a used Garden Tractor that can take a beating. I have a hill in my back yard, but nothing too crazy and I killed a low end JD lawn mower like those, even with me pulling the transaxle out flipping it over and changing the fluid. I've bought several since and kept upgrading, but I learned my lesson. In your price range, you can buy a nice used one. Start looking at something like John Deere GT235, 325, 345, GX345, X500 series. If you try anything lower like an X300 or anything from a box store, the transaxle won't last at all. I have a GX345 and love it.