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Need help figuring out a roof

vennardk

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Jul 11, 2013
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We're looking to build a 36x60x10 barn. We already have a footer in place and received a good quote to build the barn out of cinder block. We already had a 60 ft wall in place. Long story so I'll just leave it at that.

Now, I need trusses and a roof. Do I go 24" OC or 48" on OC trusses? We'll most likely do a regular 4/10 pitch roof. We live in mid michigan so snow load has to meet or exceed 25lbs.

Next is the roof... I'm leaning metal over shingles. I heard something about extra wood needed to do metal on 48" OC trusses...

I know nothing about overhangs, ridge vents, vapor barrier, etc... Furthermore, I have no idea how a cinder block built barn affects these things. Please give me your opinions!!!

The barn will be used to store garden stuff, boxes of junk (opps I mean stuff), probably a workbench area for the weekend DIYer (aka me). It'll have a gravel floor for at least a couple years. No heating/cooling. It will have electric.
 
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CNGsaves

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Welcome to GJ, and you'll get best advice by Updating your GJ Profile with at least COUNTRY and STATE. If in USA, go ahead with City and State.

Once this thread gets 20 or more posts, it's easy to overlook a location mentioned in one post.

Building codes and practices vary by location, as local weather directly affects how it should be built. Good luck.
 
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vennardk

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Don't mean to be "that guy" because nobody likes "that guy" but I did mention mid michigan. I will certainly update my profile though too. Thanks for the heads up!
 
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vennardk

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I probaby ment 4/12... I should have said "standard" as I wasn't positive when I wrote that. :) Thanks for the input!
 

BillK

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venn,
I would just call whoever you are going to buy the trusses from, they can tell you exactly what you need. That's what i did when I built my garage. They know the codes and snow loads etc for your area, everyone else is pretty much guessing.
 
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vennardk

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Thanks Bill.

What about ridge vents, "double bubble", etc? I don't want condensation dripping on stuff all day. What features are vital and which ones are more optional?

I feel like if I ask the lumber yard that, they say everything is important. It's like asking a car salesmen what is the best car. They will always tell you the most expensive. :)
 

BillK

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venn,
I dont think you will have a condensation problem with asphalt shingles, not sure about metal. Metal over asphalt seems like a waste, I would go all metal and be done with it but its not my money :)

I would think that a ridge vent is a must and should help with condensation too.

There is a wealth of information on all of the roofing manufacturers web sites. I was thinking of using metal when I redid mine last year and its amazing how much real information there is available.
 
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Garage Dog

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Pictures please...

Just one 60' cinder block wall or have more been added?

"We already had a 60 ft wall in place. Long story so I'll just leave it at that."

Really? We want to hear the story, long ones are usually the most interesting.


"24" vs 48" OC for trusses?"

Either will work if you are using steel for the roof. If you are thinking asphalt, then 24" OC is a cleaner approach.

"I heard something about extra wood needed to do metal on 48" OC trusses...?"

Yes - fewer trusses = less strength in span between the trusses, you have to compensate somehow.

"Steel vs. Asphalt?"

IMHO Steel is less hassle and cheaper long term.

"I know nothing about overhangs, ridge vents, vapor barrier, etc...?"

Having overhangs gives you an easy place for venting at the eaves (soffit vents). Ridge vents give you an easy way to vent at the ridge. Vapor Barrier helps minimize condensation. All are good options as they are harder and more expensive to add after the fact and you would hate to have condensation dripping all over your "stuff", just depends what the budget will allow.

Aesthetically - I think having overhangs look way nicer than not.

"Furthermore, I have no idea how a cinder block built barn affects these things?"

If built properly, cinder block is strong and impervious to rot or decay.

Cinder block is porous and can/will absorb and hold moisture especially if there is no ventilation (this means that properly venting with ridge vents and soffit vents will be beneficial in minimizing moisture issues), especially helpful if you ever insulate and heat in the future.
 

NUTTSGT

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The barn will be used to store garden stuff, boxes of junk (opps I mean stuff), probably a workbench area for the weekend DIYer (aka me). It'll have a gravel floor for at least a couple years. No heating/cooling. It will have electric.


Let me get this right, you are building a 36x60 for garden stuff and boxes of junk, possibly a workbench ? :dunno:
 

Scott H in Wheaton

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A 60 foot long barn made of cinder block, holy cow!
Sounds over-built, and sounds expensive, but if you've got it and are okay with the price, knock yourself out.

and to just store garden stuff and boxes?

I would think the size of that is like a 12 car garage.
 

CNGsaves

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Let's see what you've got done so far. Are you reinforcing the cinderblock with rebar?? You filling the empty space of block with concrete or any sort of insulation if not concrete??

:needpics:
 
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vennardk

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Jul 11, 2013
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Price to build the walls is $9,200. I talked to a local lumber yard and they gave me a price of $5,385 for 4' OC trusses, the steel roof, and all the little extra pieces. Still need to find labor cost to set the trusses. In all, this is less expensive than a 24x40 pole barn we've had quoted by 3 builders. Larger square footage for less money sounds tempting. :) I'll get into the details more this afternoon. Maybe some pictures in the next 24 hours.

Thanks Garage Dog for line-iteming my questions. I appreciate the feedback!
 
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