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Need Help - Fishing Rod Rack

hrdcor32

Active member
Joined
Jan 10, 2012
Messages
26
Location
Wilmington, NC
So I started on a fishing rod rack this past weekend and I need some help. My wife would say I need help with my fishing obsession, but that's not why I'm here!

Basically the base is just a 2x4 with holes about halfway through to hold the rod butts in place. Then I have a 2x4 header board mounted on the wall a few feet up to secure the rods. I used 1x4's cut with angle between each rod to make a slot or seat for each rod to fit in.

The problem is how to secure them to the header board, obviously the blue painters tape is not a permanent solution! It needs to be pretty tight, so probably a separate "fastener" for each rod is needed. I tried eye bolts and 2ft bungee cords, but that was too loose as the rods still wanted to come forward. Another reason for individual fasteners is the need to remove just a single rod sometimes. I plan to use some leftover toolbox liner in each v-groove to protect the rod finish.

Here are some pictures of the set-up, comments and suggestions welcome!

DSC_0523.jpg


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DSC_0521.jpg


Thanks in advance!
 
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Stuart in MN

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Sep 8, 2005
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23,075
Location
Minneapolis
I did a google search on 'fishing rod rack' and there are jillion of them out there. It looks like most of them just have the rods leaning against the slots, but this one has a second board along the bottom so you slide the handle in, and it keeps the rod from tipping out. Maybe something like this would work.

1001707_370028_A_600.jpg
 

bibman

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Mar 3, 2011
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390
Location
NEBRASKA
I built one very similar for my dad, to keep the rods secure to the header I used a 1/2 inch section of a cut up hotel key card screwed to the header. This held the rod fine and each rod could be removed easily...the card springs back.
 

machine_punk

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May 14, 2011
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Location
Napa Valley, California
If you attach another 1X4" board perpendicular (90 degrees/sticking out) to that top board where you have the "V" grooves, then cut a fairly wide (3/4" slot for each rod), then attach a piece of neoprene, or other rubber-like material, to the bottom of the board (covering the slots), then make a single cut right down the center of the slot...

The rubber material will 'grip' the rod as you push it in and release it easily, when you pull firmly to remove the rod.

This guy is using the Berkeley fishing rod holder to store his rods for rifle cleaning.

-OR- you could just attach a LONG Velcro strip to the face of your top board and a shorter strip at each V groove, and keep the rods up with Velcro. Velcro = Permanent Blue Tape

M_P
 
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litljay

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Jun 26, 2009
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156
Location
Fresno, CA
Try a cinching strap or cable tie type fastener. Google McMaster Carr, they should have what you're looking for.
 

Lippyp

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Jun 26, 2006
Messages
6,720
Location
Shropshire, UK
What you need are spring clips also known as Terry Clips, google terry clips and see what I mean. Not sure if you can get them in the USA but they are still available here in a wide variety of sizes, I use the bigger ones to hold a mag-light in my car.
 

442stu

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Nov 14, 2007
Messages
49
6460968.JPG
I've used these spring clips on a roof top surf rod holder I made for my truck.
 

ed_v

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Sep 15, 2007
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1,418
Location
Kentucky
You could use some 3M Dual Lock industrial fastener strips. The stuff is basically a super duty velcro. It is very pricey but sticks and holds well. I have a few rolls of it left from a business I owned. If you'd like, send me a pm and I'll mail you some.

Nice project btw. I need to make one myself.

Ed
 
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hrdcor32

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Jan 10, 2012
Messages
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Location
Wilmington, NC
Thanks for all of the ideas, ed_v is going to send me some 3m dual-lock so I'll report back on how that works.

Thanks again Ed!
 

keyser sose

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Jan 30, 2012
Messages
558
Location
earth, most days
Check out some of those plastic plug wire looms/separators. Plug wires are about the same size as the poles at that point, and you can get the wire looms for free at the salvage yard, or for a couple bucks. Good excuse to go to the junk yard, if ya need one.


:willy_nil
 

buddyboy

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Oct 8, 2007
Messages
616
i know u've got a solution but throwing this out there for others:

cuphook.jpg


they come in various sizes
 

rwhite692

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Mar 4, 2008
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Location
Central Valley, CA
....attach a piece of neoprene, or other rubber-like material, to the bottom of the board (covering the slots), then make a single cut right down the center of the slot...

The rubber material will 'grip' the rod as you push it in and release it easily, when you pull firmly to remove the rod. M_P

^^^^This method works well. Many rod holders which are made to be mounted on boat interiors, for example, are built this way, since things move around a lot, and the idea is to hold the rods securely and not allow them to move around and get scratched up / damaged.

2415858590011691741S600x600Q85.jpg


For your project, however, you are just storing them inside. This would be very easy and inexpensive to do, and looks nice as well.

Line the interior of the "scroll" cut with green adhesive backed felt, available at any craft store, and you are done.

2768172620011691741S600x600Q85.jpg
 
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SINISTER

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Feb 1, 2012
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130
Location
Long Island
I use this idea for my rod rack in the garage. It is dense foam pad about 1/8" thick cut into a strip glued across the plywood. Rods "snap" into the channel and dont come out. Simple, cheap, yet effective
Untitled.png

EDIT: sorry for no pic.
 
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SINISTER

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Feb 1, 2012
Messages
130
Location
Long Island
Metal snap fastners are good, but for expensive poles like st.croix ect. I wouldnt want to scratch or break them by constantly snapping them into place. Foam is the best IMO.
 

trainer

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Nov 28, 2005
Messages
2,019
Location
Northern Ontario, Canada
series of holes drilled in a board, board ripped to expose about 1/4 of the hole. Lined the hole with a piece of hose, slit in the centre of the opening.
155179-438x.jpg
 

cfaas416

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Jan 10, 2012
Messages
68
Location
Texas
Just a couple of suggestions I've come across:
1. Mount a single hook horizontally on your top board with a small screw through the eye of the hook and once the rod is inplace you can just rotate the hook to hold the rod. (personally I cut or grid the barb off to keep from getting poked)
2. cut a slot in a 1" piece of pvc mount with a single screw and have the slot to the side. Once the poll is hooked inside it shouldn't fall out.
 

LSU

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Dec 4, 2011
Messages
701
I'm going to steal some of these ideas.

I currently have my rods stored overhead in my garage. The rods fit in about a 3" hole on one end and I have sort of a "J" cut in the front board. I like the rods hanging from the ceiling because I don't have the wall space you have.

You got any other storage ideas for nets, anchors or other fishing gear?

I've got a utility shed where I keep my boat and I have an onboard battery charger for the trolling motor and the starter motor.

I'm always looking for storage ideas.
 

vt9c1fire

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Jul 14, 2011
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I use Lattice. A few scrap pieces About 12" long 4' wide mounted to the ceiling.
 
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hrdcor32

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Jan 10, 2012
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Wilmington, NC
I'm going to steal some of these ideas.

I currently have my rods stored overhead in my garage. The rods fit in about a 3" hole on one end and I have sort of a "J" cut in the front board. I like the rods hanging from the ceiling because I don't have the wall space you have.

You got any other storage ideas for nets, anchors or other fishing gear?

I've got a utility shed where I keep my boat and I have an onboard battery charger for the trolling motor and the starter motor.

I'm always looking for storage ideas.

Not yet, this rod rack is the first step in organizing my garage. Had to get all of these rods out of the corner so I can build a work bench there. I will be sure to post more as I go, probably start a new thread once I finish this rod rack.
 

duckcarver

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Jan 30, 2011
Messages
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Location
Eastern Shore of Maryland
I'm planning to make a large wall rack similar to yours by copying the format of a rod stand that I have as follows:

1. Install a base of 1x6 on a 45 degree angle sloping toward your toes (down and away from the wall). This board will support the weight of the rods and the angle will keep them tight against the base board (Step 3).

2. Take a second piece of 1x6 and drill 1-1.5" holes (sized based on the diameter of the rod butts) along the centerline, spaced as necessary to accomodate your reels/handles. After all of the holes are drilled, rip this board in half through the holes--leaving two 2.5-3" scalloped boards. Sand the ripped edge and the edges of each of the semicircles. Finish (paint or stain) and glue felt inside each hole cut on one of the boards.

2. The scalloped board without felt should be installed 6-10" inches above the top of the angled board with the holes/scalloped edge facing the wall. The inside edge of this bottom scallopped board should be set slightly out from the center of the angled board. This first scalloped board will push the rod **** against the angled board.

3. Install the felt-covered scalloped board 1-3' above the other scalloped board. This tope board should be installed against the wall, with the scalloped edge facing out. Each rod blank will sit in a felt-covered cutout. The scalloped openings should be aligned with those on the second board.

Dimensions should be adjusted to accomodate specific rod configurations. I'm building two separate racks. One with smaller diameter scallops and tighter spacing to accomodate spinning and light tackle rods. The second is larger in all respects to handle beefy trolling rods.

The weight of the rod will slide down the angled board and wedge against the bottom scalloped board. The top felt-covered scallop protects the rod blank and keeps each rod vertical. You can store or remove individual rods with one hand. Don't need straps, clips or other mechanical components. The geometry allows you to store different lenght/thickness rods easily. It's a very dependable and simple system. If you have questions or need a sketch, shoot me a pm.
 
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hrdcor32

Active member
Joined
Jan 10, 2012
Messages
26
Location
Wilmington, NC
I'm planning to make a large wall rack similar to yours by copying the format of a rod stand that I have as follows:

1. Install a base of 1x6 on a 45 degree angle sloping toward your toes (down and away from the wall). This board will support the weight of the rods and the angle will keep them tight against the base board (Step 3).

2. Take a second piece of 1x6 and drill 1-1.5" holes (sized based on the diameter of the rod butts) along the centerline, spaced as necessary to accomodate your reels/handles. After all of the holes are drilled, rip this board in half through the holes--leaving two 2.5-3" scalloped boards. Sand the ripped edge and the edges of each of the semicircles. Finish (paint or stain) and glue felt inside each hole cut on one of the boards.

2. The scalloped board without felt should be installed 6-10" inches above the top of the angled board with the holes/scalloped edge facing the wall. The inside edge of this bottom scallopped board should be set slightly out from the center of the angled board. This first scalloped board will push the rod **** against the angled board.

3. Install the felt-covered scalloped board 1-3' above the other scalloped board. This tope board should be installed against the wall, with the scalloped edge facing out. Each rod blank will sit in a felt-covered cutout. The scalloped openings should be aligned with those on the second board.

Dimensions should be adjusted to accomodate specific rod configurations. I'm building two separate racks. One with smaller diameter scallops and tighter spacing to accomodate spinning and light tackle rods. The second is larger in all respects to handle beefy trolling rods.

The weight of the rod will slide down the angled board and wedge against the bottom scalloped board. The top felt-covered scallop protects the rod blank and keeps each rod vertical. You can store or remove individual rods with one hand. Don't need straps, clips or other mechanical components. The geometry allows you to store different lenght/thickness rods easily. It's a very dependable and simple system. If you have questions or need a sketch, shoot me a pm.


That sounds like a good plan!

Next project is storage for decoys, waders, etc. I can tell by your name you may have some ideas for this as well?
 

duckcarver

Member
Joined
Jan 30, 2011
Messages
14
Location
Eastern Shore of Maryland
I have a few plastic wader hangers screwed to the wall. Just built a new building to store boats, decoys, etc. The best plan that I've found for decoys is attic storage trusses. Decoys are light and bulky. Mine are finally up and out of the way. Unfortunately, I don't have any tricks for deling with them.
 
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