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Need help fixing quincy 325 roc100 valves from previous owner

hondacivic247

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So i picked up a quincy 325 roc 100, I ran it today and herd all sorts of funky noises so I pulled the valves and have a few issues from the previous owner doing valve work 6 years ago.

First off this isn't a constant run model only have one unloading tower on the high pressure side. Now on the lower pressure side opposite the unloading tower I pulled the valve and I think it's missing then 3 steel rods and springs that go in the 3 holes in the valve assembly? When I pulled the unloading tower that valve assembly had the 3 rods and springs, or does this side not need them sense it doesn't unload ?

2nd issue the high pressure side and low pressure side opposite the unloading tower beleive there called discharge? Well the bolt and the bottom disc on the valve are both smooth as a baby's *** the bolt slid right into my hand when I pulled on it. My question here is what is the bottom valve disc thingy called or can anyone relay a part # for both the HP/LP sides need the disc and bolt only.

Everything else in the valves looked good the head had a little rust inside which I cleaned up the best I could.

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hondacivic247

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Hopefully one of you quincy experts can help me get part numbers so I can get these parts ordered asap, thanks in advanced for any help
 

MacMcMacmac

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Looks like a brand new intake valve in that picture. That is good news. You do not need the pins and springs in a valve that dose not have an unloader tower on it, so no worries there. I'm not quite sure what your problem is with the discharge valve. It looks like a normal valve seat and bolt there. Does the other one have the head sheared off or something? Your description is a little confusing.
 
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hondacivic247

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The threads are stripped on the bolt and the valve seat on both the LP side and HP side I think I found 2 NOS valve assembly for 40 each there part # 6670x they look the same but I have no idea if that's the correct valve as I don't have anything to reference the part# to
 
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hondacivic247

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Bump anyone have a part # on the valve seat and bolt for the parts in the first picture
 
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hondacivic247

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Here's the discharge valve assembly I bought off ebay no idea if it's for the 325 but it looks identical so I gambled on it I found the bolt and the valve seat the bolt costs 7 bucks and the seat they wanted 30 for so I'm going to get those 2 parts to fix the one valve and totally replace the other.

someone tell me if that's the correct valve

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hondacivic247

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After looking at my valves more I found out that's not the correct valve and I can't find **** on a manual so I'm going to stop by a quincy dealer in person with parts and hopefully they can help me out
 

WhoWhatNow

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I can't help with info about the valve but if you call quincy they will send you a manual and parts list. Their phone support is very good. I have a ROC 104 and got a manual directly from Quincy.
 
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hondacivic247

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I can't help with info about the valve but if you call quincy they will send you a manual and parts list. Their phone support is very good. I have a ROC 104 and got a manual directly from Quincy.

Mine and yours are basically the same. Can you find me the part number in your manual for the valve seat and bolt that holds the entire assembly together. The parts I'm looking for are in that top picture
 
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hondacivic247

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Called my local quincy dealer they told me to bring in the parts and one of there techs will help me get the parts ordered.

Does anyone have any info on the model number its a FE325

I hope they can trace the model/serial # it would be interesting to see the past 30 years of history on this beast.

I also pulled the head completely off last night cleaned the gaskets off as I got a gasket kit and new copper rings for the valves. Plan to try to clean some of the rust out of the head. The top of the LP piston was in good shape the HP piston had some carbon so I took some acetone to it and cleaned it the best I could. Also soaked the cylinder walls with oil so they don't rust while the head is off
 
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hondacivic247

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So i stopped by my quincy dealer and it was a couple techs that were super cool they took me on a tore of there small shop showing me some 1940 quincy 325 they use daily to air there shop. They didn't have to any old style valve parts like I had so they had a 325 that the bottom end went on so they pulled the 2 newer style valves out of the machine along with the 2 valve cover caps and sold me all 4 parts for 40 bucks which was a steal for 2 complete newer style valve assembly and the covers. Here's a picture of the parts I almost got it all back together.

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hondacivic247

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Got the head put all back together and everything torqued down to spec. Hopefully when I fire it up in the morning it will work fine
 
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hondacivic247

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Ran it this morning and all is well pumped up to 140psi no problem, unloaded good pulled the interstage relief valve after it unload and there was no air leaking.

Only issue I got is I used a floor lift to till the compressor to drain the oil on one of the giant tank plugs and broke the seal so it's leaking out of there I gotta bring home a big pipe wrench and hammer and beat it loose then pipe tape it install it again.

Was happy with how quite the compressor is.

I think I need to adjust the oil pressure I've herd 18-24psi is alright but I'm right at 24 psi I think I should turn it down just a little bit .

Where's the screw I turn to adjust the oil pressure?
 
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hondacivic247

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I finally got the plug out of the tank and took 3 days broke one brand new 10in irwin wrench. I had to build a cheater bar that was 40 in long out if black iron and use a 2 ft ridgid pipe wrench and hang on the damn thing. So this weekend I should have it back together and holding air. Can't wait for spring to get here so I can sand it down and repaint it, I got a guy I work with that makes vinyl stickers making me a new quincy logo to the exact specs as what's on there so it will look brand new
 

MacMcMacmac

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Your oil pressure is fine, but if you want to adjust it, the oil pressure regulator is the double nut system at 9 o'clock on the rear bearing carrier. Release the jam nut and adjust the regulator by backing off the inner nut. If I remember correctly, there is actually a slot in the end for a screwdriver. When you are at the pressure setting you want, usually 15psi, lock the jam nut again and you're good to go.
 

MacMcMacmac

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Pause this video at 2:05 and you will see exactly where the spring and ball bearing pressure regulator is located.

 
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hondacivic247

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Thanks for the tip I messed around with it but ended up leaving it where it was at 24 psi cause anything below that wouldn't activate the hydraulic unloader. I got all the leaks fixed along with installing a new drain valve and tighten up the belts on it. It's pretty amazing at how well this machine cools the air it produces I can hold my hand on the discharge pipe to the tank without it getting to hot. My last emglo GT spun 100 more rpms and if you touched the discharge pipe you would get 3rd degree burns it was so hot and I attribute it to the small valves causing a lack of air flow which generated a lot of heat.
 
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hondacivic247

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Look at this video at his unloading tower he's got a copper line off of the very top of the tower which I have then another line off the side of the tower which I don't have that goes into the head where I have a plug. Wondering what that extra line does cause mine unloads just fine
 

MacMcMacmac

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Look at this video at his unloading tower he's got a copper line off of the very top of the tower which I have then another line off the side of the tower which I don't have that goes into the head where I have a plug. Wondering what that extra line does cause mine unloads just fine

It is just used to vent the blowdown air from the tower to the inside the head instead of to atmosphere to cut down on the noise. Just a luxury touch. Worthwhile if it adds to the enjoyment of your machine. It would definitely be worth it on any compressor where you want quiet operation, such as in an HVAC application where you don't want a lot of hissing and popping sounds getting out into the office areas.
 
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hondacivic247

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The way mine is setup it doesn't vent to atmosphere it unloads and goes back into the tank as it's super quite when it unloads you just here a faint hiss of air bleeding off back into the tank it sounds like it goes. Last about 5 seconds
 
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hondacivic247

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So i picked up a coalescing filter made by wilkerson off ebay and I asked the maintenence guy at work if they had any old air dryers he could sell me as we have a 7.5hp rotary screw and tons of air lines to run the 8 inline presses we use to print labels with. Well he found one that they changed out off one of the million dollar presses and it's like new. Had to cost a few hundred things over a foot long and weighs at least 10 lbs if not more. So now I got to rig up a drop setup and all my filters on the wall. Here's the new air dryer/filter forgot to mention it was free

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hondacivic247

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Anyone know where I can order or buy a 2ft section of air hose that's got 1/2 npt fittings on each end to run from the tank shut off valve to my garage wall to make these drops. I know I've seen them just can't seem to find them
 

CNGsaves

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OP you scored on the free dryer . . . here's same model for $150 on Ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Filenco-Hi-...698?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2592436e8a

New they are $340 or more. . . . . so yes . . . YOU **** !!

Work a deal that you can buy fresh desiccant to keep your dryer full of dry media. The air compressor media is "used up" as it dries the air. Thus, you'll need filter downstream for any media dust.

For the short hose, go to Tractor Supply website and order a hydraulic hose. For 1/2" they are around $18 or so. If you want bigger 3/4" is $25.
 
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hondacivic247

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Yeah my buddy sent me a link to a place where I can buy the silica balls in bulk for cheap. The guy at work that gave me the dryer is going to look back in his shop for any air line that I can use so I don't have to buy one I also got him looking for some 1/2 npt ball valves as there expensive
 
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hondacivic247

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I got a hydraulic hose made at napa and it was over priced but I wanted it that day. I got my entire dryer system setup and hung on the block wall it works great. Cost me 120 bucks for the hose and pipe/fittings.

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hondacivic247

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Just a update on the 325, it's been running for almost a year now I run it once a week it has a slow leak somewhere but it hasn't skipped a beat with the new valves torqued down correctly
 

CNGsaves

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Sounds like you have LIFETIME compressor in the Quincy 325. :thumbup:

Let's SEE Pics of the compressor itself and your setup.

Also, how about RECAP of all your costs to purchase, repair, and finish airline system.
 
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