Need help. Getting into electronics need special tools .

[clownbear69]

Lately I've been buying more retro games/ counsels . The hand tools that I have are truly not that precise. Any recommendations? Main equipment I'm looking for is good mini plier set circuit board vise and a better soldering iron than I have now . Any other tools you'd recommend would be appreciated .

 

[Milwookie]

Hakko fx888 soldering iron
Dremel 2500-01 Rotary Tool Multi-Vise
Xcelite S2K 2-Piece Shearcutter and Pliers Set (budget)
Or Xcelite C1K 6-Piece Electronics Plier Kit (not budget)

 

[clownbear69]

I'm confused .

 

[larry_g]

I'm confused .

You got brand, part number, and description of the tools you asked for. Where is the confusion. Try taking each line and copying it into a search engine to find retailers.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[General Geoff]

Look at Pana-vise 315 circuit board holder.

 

[FigureItOut]

Pana-Vise, Hakko and Xcelite are gonna be some of the major brands to be looking at. Look over each of their websites to get a good idea of what's out there.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk

 

[BMack37]

What exactly are you planning on doing with those games and consoles? A good soldering station will run you about $100. Hakko FX888 is pretty much what everyone is going to recommend, not my cup-o-tea but it's the standard starter station.

If you're planning on doing component level repair, you'll need a good quality DMM. I know a lot of people complain about Flukes pricing but the speed of the continuity beeper is a must have and most other brands just don't have that. A Fluke 115 would be fine for you but you might be able to find a used Fluke for a reasonable price...they pretty much stay accurate forever. I have techs at my shop that have 25+ year old Flukes that haven't been re-calibrated that are still accurate.

If you're on a budget, HF mini pliers will work and their micro flush cutters are actually really sharp. I use mostly Knipex, Xcelite, PB Swiss and Felo for my hand tools but it's a luxury not a necessity.

Also, if you're going to be disassembling items like that you will need security bit sets. Don't fall for the ifixit bandwagon, they will work but they are overpriced Chinese bits that just aren't very good. You probably won't use these enough to buy an expensive kit but a nice set of precision phillips/slotted screwdrivers are a must, I like Felo. Make sure the precision kit you buy has PH0, PH00 and PH000...a lot have just the PH1 and PH0.

Good flux core solder and good solder wick are must-haves. Some form of third hand is extremely useful. I built one out of copper wire and alligator clips with a recycled TV stand base. My next version will be with coolant hose similar to this:

 

[1930]

Hakko fx888 soldering iron
Dremel 2500-01 Rotary Tool Multi-Vise
Xcelite S2K 2-Piece Shearcutter and Pliers Set (budget)
Or Xcelite C1K 6-Piece Electronics Plier Kit (not budget)

I'm confused .

And dont forget to thank the man cause he prob. couldnt have made it any easier for you unless he went out and made the purchase and sent them to you.

 

[Jawn]

+1 on Panavise... multiple heads available to suit your fancy.

Also, a big heck yeah for the Hakko soldering stations mentioned above.

Last, for budget pliers check out the 2pc set at Home Depot... http://www.homedepot.com/p/Xcelite-4-in-Shear-Cutter-Plier-Set-2-Piece-S2KS5/100163974

 

[AV tinker er]

What exactly are you planning on doing with those games and consoles? A good soldering station will run you about $100. Hakko FX888 is pretty much what everyone is going to recommend, not my cup-o-tea but it's the standard starter station.

If you're planning on doing component level repair, you'll need a good quality DMM. I know a lot of people complain about Flukes pricing but the speed of the continuity beeper is a must have and most other brands just don't have that. A Fluke 115 would be fine for you but you might be able to find a used Fluke for a reasonable price...they pretty much stay accurate forever. I have techs at my shop that have 25+ year old Flukes that haven't been re-calibrated that are still accurate.

I couldn't agree more when it comes to a multi meter. I found a fluke 87v3 on eBay for around $90 shipped a few years back. Not a fantastic deal but a good deal on a great meter.

I personally like my Weller station better than the Hakko, but it's preference.

 

[MFolks]

Some nice,small tools for soldering and repair work:
http://www.micromark.com/SearchResult.aspx?deptIdFilter=0&searchPhrase=soldering+tools

 

[one9gt]

How in depth are you trying to go? Are you going to reflow BGA chips? If so, you'll need an IR reflow station and a bottom preheated plus accessories which run from $-$$$


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[royesses]

If you plan on replacing chips and transistors etc a Hakko 808 desoldering gun would be a good optional tool. Built in pump makes it compact. Hakko soldering station as mentioned above is awesome and not expensive. Panavise is a quality tool.

 

[BMack37]

I couldn't agree more when it comes to a multi meter. I found a fluke 87v3 on eBay for around $90 shipped a few years back. Not a fantastic deal but a good deal on a great meter.

I personally like my Weller station better than the Hakko, but it's preference.

The only reason I wouldn't recommend a Weller is that there are fakes out there but if you get a genuine, they are fantastic. I like the simple Solomon SL-20 also branded as Tenma, the only downside is semi-limited tip options.

Pawn shops are also great places to find good multimeters, regularly I can find 87Vs for $250, sometimes with extra leads. I found mine for $150!!!! and they had no clue that they were also giving me about $150 worth of leads/clips and a $35 case. I have thought about picking up a Fluke 87(original) that is at one shop for $60 sticker price as a backup. I think the 87III for $90 shipped is a great deal, that's a lot of DMM for $90.

 

[clownbear69]

You got brand, part number, and description of the tools you asked for. Where is the confusion. Try taking each line and copying it into a search engine to find retailers.

lg
no neat sig line

Look at his Sig line lol God I'm tired

 

[clownbear69]

Thanks to all that replied

I got confused because I focused on the Sig line not the product that I didn't focus on above

Since that's in the air right now we are in the hobby stage but I'm more frequently replacing items (if unfamiliar with retro games like tabbed batteries ). Nonetheless the more games and systems I collect the more I'll do . I'm personally looking at it from a business standpoint as of now far horizon but no one else does anything like this in my town .

Hopefully this answered any questions. I'll be looking at your products that y'all suggested .

 

[stang2007]

A good Weller will Take you far, I recently upgraded to this guy and its soo nice, had it for 6 months so far with not a single issue.

 

[R. Johnson]

The hot air rework staion will be necessary for SMD repair, and they're also great for multi-pin connectors and through hole ICs. I plan on getting the Sparkfun 303D.

I like the Weller WES51 station but it seems the Hakko is just as good.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

 

[BMack37]

The hot air rework staion will be necessary for SMD repair, and they're also great for multi-pin connectors and through hole ICs. I plan on getting the Sparkfun 303D.

I like the Weller WES51 station but it seems the Hakko is just as good.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

Hot air rework stations are a god sent. ChipQuik is also a life saver.

 

[espyking83]

Hakko for soldering station, used to be a Weller guy but the last two I bought from them took a **** within 12 months of light use. Pro America makes some great precision pliers for the money. Ive always liked aven tweezers, especially the color coded esd ones, on amazon for ~$27. I'd recommend some soldering tweezers as well, also a heated desoldering pump. Make sure you watch your temperatures, especially when working on boards. Clean off the flux too after it,s heated. If you use zipties instead of spot-tie, make sure you get a pair of the mg-1300 cutters, zip ties will destroy your snips and plus you wont have to worry as much about damaging wire. Mix your coatings well and pay attention to shelf life dates.

 

[Milwookie]

Why would zip ties destroy snips? Honest question. The hardness of zip ties isn't anywhere near that of copper, is it?

 

[dogdog]

hmmm what kind of electronic would OP be doing again? .....


just a good temp controlled soldering / de-soldering tool would be a necessary good start.... think my handtools cutters were $5 HF specials that good enough as well as other hand tools is a no name brands.... at least nothing mention able. since all sort of mini torx drivers are there and especially with consoles dependents.... Wii have those tri-wing screws .... but then again I am just a tinker, not really that much into electronics.

No function generators / oscilloscopes/ multi meters / LCR meters/ ESR meters ?

 

[BMack37]

Why would zip ties destroy snips? Honest question. The hardness of zip ties isn't anywhere near that of copper, is it?

It doesn't, I have never heard anyone claim that zip ties would ruin snips until that post.

 

[stang2007]

I have a pair of Home depot special Cutters that where like 5 bucks for 2 cutters and while they did not bend with a zip tie it was hard to cut through them with it Recently got some channel lock crimpers with the cutter up front and man what a difference.

 

[espyking83]

It doesn't, I have never heard anyone claim that zip ties would ruin snips until that post.

Yeah youre right im totally talking out of my *** here....





LOL

 

[espyking83]

Why would zip ties destroy snips? Honest question. The hardness of zip ties isn't anywhere near that of copper, is it?

Most of the flush cuts you buy for wire are only rated for 20awg, if you use them to cut zip ties it will ruin them quickly. Take my advice or dont. It's all in the initial hardness of whatever youre cutting. Cuts insulation at angle, hits wire close to flush. Diagonal snips doesnt make a difference.

 

[Milwookie]

Can you post some pictures?

 

[General Geoff]

Most of the flush cuts you buy for wire are only rated for 20awg, if you use them to cut zip ties it will ruin them quickly. Take my advice or dont. It's all in the initial hardness of whatever youre cutting. Cuts insulation at angle, hits wire close to flush. Diagonal snips doesnt make a difference.

You're suggesting that hardened steel will be ruined by cutting nylon?

 

[espyking83]

You're suggesting that hardened steel will be ruined by cutting nylon?

Thats precisely what im saying, yes.

 

[espyking83]

Can you post some pictures?

Of me? Im not much to look at... And I dont keep dull flush cuts.

 

[General Geoff]

Thats precisely what im saying, yes.

Please tell us the make and model of the flush cut snips that were ruined by cutting nylon, so we can all avoid them.

I've been using these to cut zip ties in addition to copper wire for a decade and they're no worse for the wear.

 

[Movover]

I do quite a bit of soldering. I used to have a Panavise circuit board vise, but I found it to be a bit too constraining. It works great for assembly line type work, but when working on different sized boards it was too fiddly in terms of adjustment. It also doesn't work well for clamping boards that have attachments, wires, plug clips, etc. that hang or extend off the edges of the board. I eventually sold off the board attachment and now I use a quick grip clamp with my regular Panavise head instead. It gives me many more options and angles for clamping, and if I want I can also switch to smaller light duty quick grip clamps for circuit boards that are only a couple inches square in size.

I made a small oak spacer to allow for clamping the beam below the vise jaws (for a tighter hold and so the slightly I-beam shaped clamp beam doesn't mess up the plastic vise jaws) and it works great.

In the future I'm planning to improve this setup by drilling a hole through each quick grip clamp arm so I can attach secondary helping hands arms. Then I could clamp a circuit board in place and use a helping hands clamp to hold a wire or component while soldering instead of holding it manually with a pair of pliers or my second hand.

The rubber pads on the clamps grip the edges of circuit boards very well and the clamps don't attach to the entire side of the board so extra things hanging off are fine. Here are some pictures of it from back when I first made it.

Thats a great idea!! Thank you for sharing. Off to the garage I go

 

[Milwookie]

Despite the fact that Espy came across as kind of an arrogant jerk about it, looks like he's onto something. This is from Knipex's FAQ:

For physical reasons, hard material cannot be cut flush using pliers. Pliers used for flush cutting should not have any external bevel.

Cutter without external bevel
As a result of the one-sided cutting element, very large compressive forces are created on the side of the cutter edge when cutting with the tip. These forces bend the cutting edge or lead to nicks. Flush cutting that is free from burrs and does not damage the pliers cutters is only possible when cutting soft materials such as lead, copper, soft brass or plastic.

What can I use to flush cut cable ties?
Cable ties are usually made from quality plastics with high tensile forces. When they are cut using pliers, high frictional forces are therefore created between the plastic of the cable tie and the steel of the cutter.
The wider and thicker the cable tie, the greater these forces will be.
The surface of the cutters and their lip angle also have a great influence on the cutting forces created.
We recommend precision electronics diagonal cutters from the 79 range, e.g. 79 22 125 or diagonal cutters for plastic in the 72 range, e.g. 72 01 160.



The frequently used 78 models (Electronic Super Knips®) are almost at the limit of their load-bearing capacity when cutting cable ties, especially in the case of wide cable ties or when they are cut using a fast cutting movement: the speed increases the friction.

Whodathunkit?

 

[Brownsfan]

Please tell us the make and model of the flush cut snips that were ruined by cutting nylon, so we can all avoid them.

I've been using these to cut zip ties in addition to copper wire for a decade and they're no worse for the wear.

While it may or may not be true that zip ties will dull flush cuts and I don't doubt it. It does make sense . I have the same set of flush cuts and use them for flush cutting zip ties only. Nothing else. I usually loose them before they come close to wearing out. I have had my current one's for 3 years now with daily use without issue. They may be duller than when new but I can't tell. I got mine at home depot under the crescent brand. $13 and comes with a precision needle nose as well.http://m.homedepot.com/p/Crescent-4-in-Shear-Cutter-Plier-Set-2-Piece-S2KS5N/206872615

 

[espyking83]

Please tell us the make and model of the flush cut snips that were ruined by cutting nylon, so we can all avoid them.

I've been using these to cut zip ties in addition to copper wire for a decade and they're no worse for the wear.

Who inspects your work?

 

[espyking83]

Despite the fact that Espy came across as kind of an arrogant jerk about it, looks like he's onto something. This is from Knipex's FAQ:



Whodathunkit?

I wasnt trying to be dude, I am sorry. But when whats his nuts flat out said that they cant be I insinuated it as him calling me a liar. I try to be helpful, hope I was.

 

[Milwookie]

Espy, thanks for the apology. Obviously you had experience with this issue, but I (and apparently a number of other people) didn't understand the mechanics of it, and were dubious at best. I'm still not sure I grasp how a nylon strap is damaging a piece of steel with an HRC of 60+, but clearly there's a lot I don't know.

I'm looking into getting a more appropriate cutter now. If it hadn't been for your comments, I might have destroyed my fancy new Knipex cutters, and then I would have been very sad!

 

[espyking83]

Espy, thanks for the apology. Obviously you had experience with this issue, but I (and apparently a number of other people) didn't understand the mechanics of it, and were dubious at best. I'm still not sure I grasp how a nylon strap is damaging a piece of steel with an HRC of 60+, but clearly there's a lot I don't know.

I'm looking into getting a more appropriate cutter now. If it hadn't been for your comments, I might have destroyed my fancy new Knipex cutters, and then I would have been very sad!

Use the knipex for flush cutting installed ties. Remove ties with somethign else. Installed ties have to be cut with flush cutters (so they dont damage wire), no getting around it, all im saying is that you should have a designated tie removal plier. MG 1300 is amazing and truly recommend for anyone working with wire, because they cut diagonally and you dont have to worry as much about damaging insulation.

 

[pozidriv]

Interesting, I too would've never thought plastic could hurt snips.
I looked up the Knipex model numbers in Milwookie's text, they recommend using the 79 22 125 which has a cutting edge with no bevel and an approximate hardness of 64 HRC.

The superknips I'm using (78 61 125) have the same specification, so I think I'll just continue using 'em on cable ties. We'll see how they hold up.