Need Help Identifying Compressor Pump & Trouble Shooting & Large Grinder

[dirtrunner0519]

Hi,

I recently purchased a 1961 Washington compressor used. It needs a little well a lot of love. It has a large 200G tank and a massive pump on it. I cannot figure out the make of the pump nor the HP rating. Currently it has a 5HP motor that just seems way too small for it.

Any help identifying the pump so I can get some spare parts or where I should start would be awesome.

I also have a large 3P i believe 7HP grinder that I picked up. Need recommendations on what wheels I should replace the existing ones with as I do a lot of metal fabrication.

 

[MacMcMacmac]

For the compressors, the big one looks like a Saylor Beall 707. The small one looks like a Champion R15.

 

[dirtrunner0519]

The Saylor Beall 707 is showing as a 10hp compressor, should i order a 10hp motor and see if it gets it running?

 

[MacMcMacmac]

These 707s were also packaged as 7.5hp units. If the RPM is correct for the motor size you don't have to do anything. The pump should be turning 650rpm @ 7.5hp.

 

[dirtrunner0519]

I can run a 5hp motor with a 7.5HP unit. How do I know which one I have?

This has been my Achilles heel as of late. I have been so frustrated by it.

Here is a video of it running of a 5hp Motor. Yes, the belts are loose, trying to figure out how to get them tight.

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[dirtrunner0519]

I can run a 5hp motor with e 7.5HP unit. How do I know which one I have?

This has been my Achilles heel as of late. I have been so frustrated by it.

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[RoninB4]

I also have a large 3P i believe 7HP grinder that I picked up. Need recommendations on what wheels I should replace the existing ones with as I do a lot of metal fabrication.

-Why do you want to replace the existing wheels? If there are no cracks (test them per "ring test") and they're of sufficient grit then use them for general grinding duty. If you need special wheels then state what you'd need them to do. I like AlOx wheels over carborundum but that's just me.

 

[MacMcMacmac]

I can run a 5hp motor with e 7.5HP unit. How do I know which one I have?

This has been my Achilles heel as of late. I have been so frustrated by it.

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I don't understand what you are asking.

 

[dirtrunner0519]

I don't understand what you are asking.

I have a 5HP motor right now. Do i need to upsize the motor to a 7.5hp or larger to match that size pump.

 

[dirtrunner0519]

-Why do you want to replace the existing wheels? If there are no cracks (test them per "ring test") and they're of sufficient grit then use them for general grinding duty. If you need special wheels then state what you'd need them to do. I like AlOx wheels over carborundum but that's just me.

The wheels are damaged, I am looking mainly for slag clean up and overall just grinding on metal. I need help trying to figure out the best one.

 

[RoninB4]

The wheels are damaged, I am looking mainly for slag clean up and overall just grinding on metal. I need help trying to figure out the best one.

The wheels are damaged? If they're just glazed they can be dressed for further use. If they have chunks missing from them then I would NOT use them. If they've come to you on a newly purchased grinder I'd take them off and do the "ring test". If not familiar with testing look up a video or a good text explanation. A damaged wheel can explode (really it can) when it gets up to speed or when using it. It can/will throw chunks of the grinding wheel at high speed that can maim/kill you. It's not worth the very real risk to save a few bucks spent later at the hospital ER.

For wheel choice carborundum is usually cheaper and lasts longer but I prefer an aluminum-oxide wheel as it generally grinds cooler. The grit size will make a big difference in speed and finish, a 32 grit is more coarse than a 46. You'll have to decide what grit you need but a rule of thumb, even for precision grinding, is to use as coarse a grit as possible that still gives you the surface finish you require. These are fine for ferrous material. They do NOT work for non-ferrous material like brass or aluminum. Failure to observe this will glaze/clog up the wheel or potentially cause it to explode. For non-ferrous grinding a coarse belt sander or rotary burr in a die grinder is best. For slag cleanup why not use a hand grinder?

The pedestal grinder can be fitted with a wire wheel, buffer, or whatever else suits your type of work. Get something to dress the wheel (star dresser, dressing stick, etc.) to use on the wheel. It maintains the face of the wheel, removes embedded material, and will grind faster/cooler than a misshapen wheel some hack from another department has ruined. Green silicon carbide wheels are for carbide and not suitable for steel. Check your arbor size, motor speed limit for the wheel, and order accordingly from an industrial supply house that knows how to ship a grinding wheel. Buying a grinding wheel from E-bay may not get packed with enough protection and could have a hidden crack/fracture. Do the "rind test" with anything you buy. Ganbatte.

 

[MacMcMacmac]

I have a 5HP motor right now. Do i need to upsize the motor to a 7.5hp or larger to match that size pump.

You might be able to squeak by with a 5hp motor if you can keep the rpm high enough to ensure proper lubrication. Generally speaking you need at least 400rpm or more to keep a splash lubricated pump happy, but I DO NOT guarantee this will work for every splash lube pump. You might not get much pressure out of it before you are drawing max amps on the motor. I have seen a DeVilbiss 445 (15hp) running with a 7.5hp motor in HVAC application. It was running very slowly and did not produce much pressure but it did run ok. It is a bit more than slash lubricated though.

 

[TJMtl]

I don't know how I missed this thread. Saylor-Beall sells a 707 pump compressor with a 5hp motor PL-737-80. My compressor runs at 455 rpm and is super quiet.

Mine is pressure lubed though...