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Need help identifying correct Breaker Type

oldpops

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Feb 23, 2018
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309
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Southern California
Hello everyone! Hope all here are well!! We live in a southern California tract home built in 2002 and I have a question about which type of electrical breaker is needed for our breaker. *A little back-story: We had to have an electrician come out a few years ago to repair/replace a breaker. At the time I asked if *** was possible to add another circuit to my garage - (I'm tired of stretching extension cords). I have reached out to the electricians that came out before with my question but they are not responding.

At the time, the electrician checked and said it is do-able by using a tandem breaker. Well we couldn't afford it at the time but now I have someone who will do the work if I go and get the supplies/materials. The guy said since there is already a growth-tube coming through the garage wall, and since I want the new outlet about a foot away from where the growth tube is located, that the job will only take about 1/2 hour to 45 mins - but he does NOT want to drive to the big box store with me to pick out what I nee (the guy is doing me a favor so I am respecting his wishes)

Anyway, I took some pictures of our electrical panel and I am hoping folks here can tell me what tandem breaker to get. ** There is a breaker That is NOT being used (first owner of the house had some BIG jacuzzi - pool, but that's long gone so I don't think one of the 50 am breakers is being used). If I had my way I would also have the guy add a little sub-panel (taking/using the space of/from the unused 50 amp breaker spot). As always, I want to say thanks in advance to all those who offer help and advice!!
 

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BillK

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Aug 24, 2006
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Beautiful Southern Maryland
What does the 240 V breaker marked "Garage" feed ?

I would find out first what is attached to the unused 240 breaker. I think in this case it would be best to have your electrician look at everything before making a decision.
 

sparky 1971

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Central Iowa
It's a 16/24. Sixteen spaces and 24 circuits max. The bottom eight spaces can use tandem breakers, so the very bottom HOMT120 can be replaced with a HOMT2020. If you are adding a 15 amp circuit you could use a HOMT1520, but those are like a unicorn, I've never seen one in the wild. If the hot tub breaker isn't being used, it could be taken out and regular breakers could be used in its place. That breaker could also be used to feed the sub panel you mentioned.




 

fitter30

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Peace Valley,mo
If the labeled dishwasher/ disposal breaker if so the bar that ties the two trip lever together needs to be removed so the breaker works independently of each other.
 
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oldpops

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Southern California
The breaker marked 2'40 AMP/Garage' we believe is for the dryer (we don't have an electric dryer, and the washer dryer hook-up is actually in a laundry room that is adjacent to/and feeds into the garage, but it's not in the garage. Is there a way to test the 240 amp garage breaker with a meter (I've never tested a 240 amp before)? I was also thinking of pulling the Hot-tub breaker and putting in breakers for a sub panel. When I talked to the electrician about it (when he was here) he talked abut the cost and since my kids are all grown, I couldn't offer my first-born (a ridiculous price).
 

RegeSullivan

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My bet is Square D home line becouse the lable says "HOMT" and does not say "QO"

Walt
I've seen these at our local Orange store... if that is what you are referring to.

 

sparky 1971

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If the labeled dishwasher/ disposal breaker if so the bar that ties the two trip lever together needs to be removed so the breaker works independently of each other.
Not true. The two circuits are more than likely a MWBC and, if so, code requires the breakers to be tied together so that if one gets shut off, the other will also in order to prevent someone from getting lit up on a loaded neutral. That can be with handle ties or with a two pole breaker. In the odd event they aren't a MWBC, there is absolutely nothing in the code that says that the two circuits can't be on a two pole breaker. And, since that is a two pole breaker, removing the handle tie won't eliminate common trip. If one breaker trips, the other will also, but without the handle tie, both breakers will have to be turned to off and back on simultaneously.
 
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wyliesdiesels

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If the labeled dishwasher/ disposal breaker if so the bar that ties the two trip lever together needs to be removed so the breaker works independently of each other.
Huh? The breaker handle is NOT a trip lever.

Also, If that is an MWBC(as many DW/DISP circuits are), the breaker handles are required by code.
 

wyliesdiesels

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The breaker marked 2'40 AMP/Garage' we believe is for the dryer (we don't have an electric dryer, and the washer dryer hook-up is actually in a laundry room that is adjacent to/and feeds into the garage, but it's not in the garage. Is there a way to test the 240 amp garage breaker with a meter (I've never tested a 240 amp before)? I was also thinking of pulling the Hot-tub breaker and putting in breakers for a sub panel. When I talked to the electrician about it (when he was here) he talked abut the cost and since my kids are all grown, I couldn't offer my first-born (a ridiculous price).
A dryer circuit should be 30a not 40a
 
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oldpops

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Southern California
I guess a little more investigation is needed. I know they have the little circuit breaker locater devices for the 110 circuits ( a little signal transmitter plugged into an outlet, then you you back to the panel with a device that can 'hear' the signal & identify the correct breaker). Do they have anything like that for bigger voltage circuits, like 240 ? Or for other plug types like the one behind the dryer?
 

sparky 1971

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Central Iowa
I guess a little more investigation is needed. I know they have the little circuit breaker locater devices for the 110 circuits ( a little signal transmitter plugged into an outlet, then you you back to the panel with a device that can 'hear' the signal & identify the correct breaker). Do they have anything like that for bigger voltage circuits, like 240 ? Or for other plug types like the one behind the dryer?
There are meters. Put the leads in the outlet to determine if there is voltage. Go turn off the suspected breaker. Reinsert the leads to see if voltage is still present. If no, you have the breaker but turn the breaker back on just to verify. If yes, move to another breaker and repeat.
 
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oldpops

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Southern California
Thanks everyone! I was hoping that there might be a quick way to check without the old 2 person needed method, but I will ask my wife. **Just a little info: The electrician we had come out to fix a problem with the kitchen outlet GFCI's always popping said that they had wired our Kitchen island, the back kitchen counter wall, the dishwasher and garbage disposal, and 2 bathrooms on 1 circuit. I think either the microwave or the 2 GFCI outlets outside were also on the same circuit. He was wondering how / who would wire it up like that (when these tract homes were built). I told him there was a big lawsuit by almost all of the original homeowners against the builder for many, many problems. We have a 40 foot wide block wall that was built without rebar or concrete in the middle cavity. So I am not surprised by what we find/discover anymore
 
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oldpops

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Southern California
Thanks! We had something like that when I installed DSL & POTS lines for Pac Bell. As a side note, I noticed that some of the breakers in our panel say 15 & others say 20. I'm not an electrician, but my dad was an electrical engineer for SCE. Anyway, growing up he did a lot of side-jobs to help pay for my 5 brothers and 2 sisters. He said he sometimes came upon houses where someone had used 14/2 wire hooked to a 20 amp breaker. I don't remember all the reasons why he said it was bad to do this but I seem to remember the words "overheating & fire". Since there were some mistakes/overloading in the kitchen, I'm thinking it might be prudent to verify what wire is hooked to the 20 breakers. Thoughts?
 

wyliesdiesels

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the unit you wouldve had when working with pac bell wouldve been for low voltage wires. this unit does 300v. dont use a telephone line locator on line voltage wires

as for wire ratings and breakers on general use circuits, 14 NM-b should be on 15a breaker and 12 NM-b should be on 20a breaker but could be on 15a....
 
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