Hello all, I have an IR Type 30 242 5D3 compressor. Can anyone tell me what part this is circled in red? It connects into the pump right behind behind that copper fitting. I found the manual, but it does not say anywhere what that particular part is or the size. It is leaking at the top part and I'd like to replace it asap. Hopefully it's something I can get local. Seems to be a pressure fitting as well. Thanks in advance.
Need help Identifying part on older IR Type 30 Compressor
- Thread starter EddieZ999
- Start date
isb cornbinder
Well-known member
The tube is part of an "unloader system.
That tube is connected to a centrifugal valve on the end of the crankshaft. The air valve opens when the compressor slows to a stop and should remain open until the compressor restarts builds speed on a restart. This unloader allows air to escape from the line between the tank and the second stage.. If it is connected and working properly the unloader should make a sound of air escaping.
I do not see the intercooler lines between the first stage and second stage sections. Also, I do not see a check valve in the pipe connecting the second stage to the storage tank.
I used to rebuild these compressors for my employer and have done more than a few rebuilds on this model. When assembled correctly this is a fantastic compressor and in domestic service it should last a life-time. Even though this is an older model Ingersol, it is still being made by IR. There are knock-off T30 compressors and knock off parts. You will have to make your choice on which parts you buy. I buy only OEM, made in USA.
I bought a box of what was described as "unknown parts and pieces" at an auction. I paid $25. I knew exactly what the parts were and paid $25 for the contents of the box. . The parts were that of a complete T30 and included a master rebuild kit. Everything was mostly covered a thick layer of tree leaves and discarded lunch bags.
I have a bunch of pictures of the assembly of my T30 on my computer, at home. I will post pictures later today, I am out and about at the moment.
These compressors can be loud. The sound is more of a thumping sound versus the annoying higher speed whine of a smaller compressor.
Parts are readily available for this compressor. The three row copper intercooler can be expensive.
There is an oil scoop inside that likes to come loose and fall off and obstruct the crankshaft. The connecting rods are often destroyed. I use red Loctite to secure the scoop fasteners to the crankshaft, for that little extra security. I have never had a scoop failure, yet.
The scoop is important at the OEM recommended oil level. I have seen these compressors run reliably without the scoop, but the oil level was raised high enough tor the crank to splash in the oil. OIL: I am using Harley Davidson Synthetic oil because this is what I had. Five years later all is well. Later.
That tube is connected to a centrifugal valve on the end of the crankshaft. The air valve opens when the compressor slows to a stop and should remain open until the compressor restarts builds speed on a restart. This unloader allows air to escape from the line between the tank and the second stage.. If it is connected and working properly the unloader should make a sound of air escaping.
I do not see the intercooler lines between the first stage and second stage sections. Also, I do not see a check valve in the pipe connecting the second stage to the storage tank.
I used to rebuild these compressors for my employer and have done more than a few rebuilds on this model. When assembled correctly this is a fantastic compressor and in domestic service it should last a life-time. Even though this is an older model Ingersol, it is still being made by IR. There are knock-off T30 compressors and knock off parts. You will have to make your choice on which parts you buy. I buy only OEM, made in USA.
I bought a box of what was described as "unknown parts and pieces" at an auction. I paid $25. I knew exactly what the parts were and paid $25 for the contents of the box. . The parts were that of a complete T30 and included a master rebuild kit. Everything was mostly covered a thick layer of tree leaves and discarded lunch bags.
I have a bunch of pictures of the assembly of my T30 on my computer, at home. I will post pictures later today, I am out and about at the moment.
These compressors can be loud. The sound is more of a thumping sound versus the annoying higher speed whine of a smaller compressor.
Parts are readily available for this compressor. The three row copper intercooler can be expensive.
There is an oil scoop inside that likes to come loose and fall off and obstruct the crankshaft. The connecting rods are often destroyed. I use red Loctite to secure the scoop fasteners to the crankshaft, for that little extra security. I have never had a scoop failure, yet.
The scoop is important at the OEM recommended oil level. I have seen these compressors run reliably without the scoop, but the oil level was raised high enough tor the crank to splash in the oil. OIL: I am using Harley Davidson Synthetic oil because this is what I had. Five years later all is well. Later.
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isb cornbinder
Well-known member
The part that you "circled" should not be leaking because it i not connected to anything that makes pressure. There may be a little crankcase pressure pulsing through the tube. This is likely s symptom of a leaking seal in the unloader.
The compressor, as pictured, has a few pieces missing. Replacing that piece of tube and related fittings should be on your priority list of missing parts needed to complete the compressor and have it work well.
The compressor, as pictured, has a few pieces missing. Replacing that piece of tube and related fittings should be on your priority list of missing parts needed to complete the compressor and have it work well.
Man, thanks a ton for that info. I'm not exactly savvy with this type of stuff. I've been using this compressor for about 3 years now and it's been a dream. It's so incredibly quiet also. I have a 60 Gallon BlackMax single stage as well that is literally 3 times louder. About a month ago the IR starting making some sounds that I wasn't too fond of to say the least. So, I took it apart (as much as I felt comfortable doing). Changed the belts, some gaskets, the oil seal at the back where the large spindle is and put it all back together. Fired it up and it runs better than ever, except for that part when I connected it "seemed" to be leaking, which I think it is slightly misthreaded as I dont think I aligned it properly when attaching it. It's been setup just as you see in the pictures since I've had it and which is over 3 years. I wasn't aware it was missing parts. I was looking up other images of this compressor and noticed some had parts that mine didnt have, but didnt think much of it simply because it's always run great, and the person I bought it from was running it as is as well. Thanks again for your info
Also, are these the intercooler lines you were referring too? And yes, I know that it is dirty as hell all over and plan on taking it outside and cleaning the hell out of it. All those drip lines look like leaks, but they are just from when I was taking apart and didn't clean it up after I put it together. As I said I'm not super savvy with these things and was just eager to get it back together so I could finish a couple jobs I've got in the shop.
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isb cornbinder
Well-known member
Those are the intercooler lines I was referring to. One of my pictures shows two IC lines because I had not installed the third.
The brass fitting in the head, where the unloader line starts, is a standard NPT to double flare fitting. NAPA or your other favorite auto parts store should have these fittings. I would be surprised if the fitting would be much over a dollar. NAPA and possibly other auto parts stores should have pre-flared tube in different lengths, also around a dollar. The nuts will be on the tube, so make sure the brass fitting fits your tube. Bring the old tube along for a comparison/match.
If the replacement tube is too long it is easy to form the tube so it will fit by adding a gentile bend or two. Be careful to not kink the tube. In the absence of specialized tube benders, you should be able to form the tube in an unused pulley. A piece of round stock will help to form the tube and reduce the risk of kinking. When you for the tube, without a forming tool, try to pull on the tube as you form the tube into a gentle bend.
I have all of the specialty tooling for these tubing jobs. If you were close I would let you do the work, with my tools and then you will have a new experience and maybe get the tool habit.
I added some "other" unloader line to my compressor for my own enjoyment, so don't think you may have something missing on your unit. I let my mind off-leash every now and then and "stuff happens."
The brass fitting in the head, where the unloader line starts, is a standard NPT to double flare fitting. NAPA or your other favorite auto parts store should have these fittings. I would be surprised if the fitting would be much over a dollar. NAPA and possibly other auto parts stores should have pre-flared tube in different lengths, also around a dollar. The nuts will be on the tube, so make sure the brass fitting fits your tube. Bring the old tube along for a comparison/match.
If the replacement tube is too long it is easy to form the tube so it will fit by adding a gentile bend or two. Be careful to not kink the tube. In the absence of specialized tube benders, you should be able to form the tube in an unused pulley. A piece of round stock will help to form the tube and reduce the risk of kinking. When you for the tube, without a forming tool, try to pull on the tube as you form the tube into a gentle bend.
I have all of the specialty tooling for these tubing jobs. If you were close I would let you do the work, with my tools and then you will have a new experience and maybe get the tool habit.
I added some "other" unloader line to my compressor for my own enjoyment, so don't think you may have something missing on your unit. I let my mind off-leash every now and then and "stuff happens."
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Once again, you're a life saver. Ya, I figured it was a fairly simple part to find, but just wanted to be sure. Hopefully mine will look as clean as yours when I'm done. The funny thing is if you saw how I have it all plumbed it is rather mind blowing(in a good way or bad depending on how you look at it). It sucked because the other night when I had it all back together I thought to myself.......Hmmmmm, I've got my IR 80 gallon and the Blackmax 60 gallon which I didnt want just sitting there doing nothing and decided to embark on a project of connecting the 2 so I'd have 140 gallon essentially. Went and got all the fittings and after running everything through my insane setup and fired it up only for it to leak from that little stupid piece. I was furious.
isb cornbinder
Well-known member
My compressor is hidden in a corner and not easily seen. I know it looks not too bad, but not many other will ever see what I did.
Just a small thing. I never like to see the bracket for the belt guard bolted to cylinder head . There is an increased chance of the vibration loosening a head bolt. The base has two really good candidate bolts just waiting for some extra work.
I do not have a belt guard on my unit because I have the belts and pulleys facing the wall. I also tied the upright tank to the wall on the off chance the ground shakes.
Just a small thing. I never like to see the bracket for the belt guard bolted to cylinder head . There is an increased chance of the vibration loosening a head bolt. The base has two really good candidate bolts just waiting for some extra work.
I do not have a belt guard on my unit because I have the belts and pulleys facing the wall. I also tied the upright tank to the wall on the off chance the ground shakes.
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