Boneyard51
Active member
PHP:
[GD][GS][GP][SIZE="4"][/SIZE][/GP][/GS][/GD]Ugh..... how do you post pictures here?
Bones [/GD][/GD]
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Need help on wiring a reversible 220 motor
- Thread starter Boneyard51
- Start date
Ugh..... how do you post pictures here?
Bones [/GD][/GD]
OP
Boneyard51
Active member
Sorry for the messed up post... I new to this type of forum . I think I’ve got it now!?
Bones
Bones
walta
Well-known member
To change the rotation and voltage I think you need 6 wires coming out of the motor I only see 5. short of opening up the motor and bringing out the sixth wire, I think you are looking for a different motor.
Walta
OP
Boneyard51
Active member
There six wires coming out of the motor....I think there are number 1 through 6 . The pics are kinda hard to follow, that why I took several at a little different angles.
Bones
Bones
from your pic "4FF12273-C2EF-44B4-A6DB-71925B34AB04.jpg (3 of 7)"
It seems like your 12 34 is the running coils and 56 is the starting coils...
basically it says 1,2 is a coil.. .. and 3,4 is another running coil... and 5,6 minus the capacitor end and a centrifugal swich , is the starting coil circuit ... you can check with continuity or ohm meter, might needed to be inventive with the starting coil...
so if you ohm check 1 2 get a reading in ohms, it should be equal or very very close to 34 ohm reading... and 5 6 , you should skip the capacitor since it is in series with a starting cap and the centrifugal switch (normally closed)... it normally equals the the ohm of 12 and 34 combine.
usually for low voltage 110V the two running coils are in parallel , hence you pic says low voltage tue 13 and 24 together... and switch the connection 56 to those bundles...
if the two running coils are in parallel, you should be expecting the ohm reading of 12 and 34 to be 1/2
and high voltage... connect 1 to L1 , 2 and 3 together.. and 4 to L2... and 5 6 is swap between L1 and L2 to get CW or CCW..
if they are in series in high voltage, you should expect ohm reading to double... when verifying.
of cause you should verify it first.
as far as how to hook it up to a drum switch.. I'll let a drum switch expert tell you that... I used a DPDT and another on/off switch to do my motor power and reverse... Drum switch is basically a TPDT.
It seems like your 12 34 is the running coils and 56 is the starting coils...
basically it says 1,2 is a coil.. .. and 3,4 is another running coil... and 5,6 minus the capacitor end and a centrifugal swich , is the starting coil circuit ... you can check with continuity or ohm meter, might needed to be inventive with the starting coil...
so if you ohm check 1 2 get a reading in ohms, it should be equal or very very close to 34 ohm reading... and 5 6 , you should skip the capacitor since it is in series with a starting cap and the centrifugal switch (normally closed)... it normally equals the the ohm of 12 and 34 combine.
usually for low voltage 110V the two running coils are in parallel , hence you pic says low voltage tue 13 and 24 together... and switch the connection 56 to those bundles...
if the two running coils are in parallel, you should be expecting the ohm reading of 12 and 34 to be 1/2
and high voltage... connect 1 to L1 , 2 and 3 together.. and 4 to L2... and 5 6 is swap between L1 and L2 to get CW or CCW..
if they are in series in high voltage, you should expect ohm reading to double... when verifying.
of cause you should verify it first.
as far as how to hook it up to a drum switch.. I'll let a drum switch expert tell you that... I used a DPDT and another on/off switch to do my motor power and reverse... Drum switch is basically a TPDT.
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OP
Boneyard51
Active member
Thanks! I will get back out to the shop , in a day or two, ( got some other things pressing on me)and check those out and report back.
I think I can handle the drum switch, if I just know what it’s supposed to do.
What capacity breaker do I need for the motor? If it’s 3/4 220? Is there achart somewhere, in case it’s larger? Thanks
Bones