Need help picking a compressor

[EOC_Jason]

I asked him how much he was willing to accept for the package since I couldn't see it run and he offered a $1000. I accepted. I'm supposed to go Thursday to pick it up. Almost too good to get excited about it.

If anyone has any additional considerations I should think about prior to pickup let me know now or forever hold your peace. lol

Man, for $1k now you really got a steal! Knowing it had regular maintenance is reassuring too. Being a pressure lube dramatically extends the longevity, being made in the late 90's it's hardly broken in... lol...

I'm sure you found their website: http://www.saylor-beall.com/

SB service and support is top notch from everyone here that I've read that has had to deal with them.

Pretty expensive at $8200. What makes a compressor so expensive?

Saylor Beall is Made in the USA, they are overbuilt & made to last, not the cheap chinesium garbage that is flooding the market these days. Part of the cost is the pump but also you have to realize the cost of a 25HP Baldor (USA) motor... Look those things up by themselves... Probably $2k at least to ship it to your door... Also anything past 7.5HP kind of falls into the realm of "commercial" product, which quantities are produced less and always cost more because it is assumed it will be used in a commercial environment so they have money to spend... lol.

FYI, the model # from the pictures on the CL ad were: PL-92520

PL = Pressure Lube
9 = Model 9000 Pump
25 = 25HP Motor
20 = 200 Gallon Tank

That's how SB numbers work...

What is a "refrigerated dryer" anyways?

It's basically a contained refrigeration unit that 'chills' the air as it flows through its coils, drawing out the moisture. Not really necessary for blasting, but if you were painting or using air-tools you wouldn't want the water to mess things up.

 

[JOE.G]

I just rebuilt the 707 Sayylor Beall Pump on the farm compressor, I dealt with Mike from Pacific Air Compressors for the parts and he also lended me some Tech help, Great company to deal with . Not quite sure why the rod broke in one of the cylinders but it did,I gave it a complete overhaul and It should go for many more years. This one is about 20 Years old. I think you made a great choice.

 

[Marksextra]

The air path part of the dryer is basically encapsulated in a refridgerator. Sorta like you took your hose reel and mounted it inside a fridge in the garage and had a port to pull the hose end out for use.

That was a good visual description. I get it now. So the air gets heated up by the compressor and then it needs cooled down, and the cooling produces moisture I guess.. learn something new everyday. Thanks

 

[Marksextra]

Man, for $1k now you really got a steal! Knowing it had regular maintenance is reassuring too. Being a pressure lube dramatically extends the longevity, being made in the late 90's it's hardly broken in... lol...

I'm sure you found their website: http://www.saylor-beall.com/

SB service and support is top notch from everyone here that I've read that has had to deal with them.


Saylor Beall is Made in the USA, they are overbuilt & made to last, not the cheap chinesium garbage that is flooding the market these days. Part of the cost is the pump but also you have to realize the cost of a 25HP Baldor (USA) motor... Look those things up by themselves... Probably $2k at least to ship it to your door... Also anything past 7.5HP kind of falls into the realm of "commercial" product, which quantities are produced less and always cost more because it is assumed it will be used in a commercial environment so they have money to spend... lol.

FYI, the model # from the pictures on the CL ad were: PL-92520

PL = Pressure Lube
9 = Model 9000 Pump
25 = 25HP Motor
20 = 200 Gallon Tank

That's how SB numbers work...

It's basically a contained refrigeration unit that 'chills' the air as it flows through its coils, drawing out the moisture. Not really necessary for blasting, but if you were painting or using air-tools you wouldn't want the water to mess things up.

I'm glad you think it's a good deal. Makes me alot more confident in the purhase. Thank you for the link and the Model number explanation. I hadn't seen that in any of my researching this compressor. Makes sense now.

 

[Marksextra]

Can someone post a link on instructions for posting pictures?

Edit: I think I found it....

Edit 2: aaaand the pictures are sideways. sorry

 

[Marksextra]

Got everything home ok.

I could use a diagram on how all this goes together.

 

[Marksextra]

A couple more.

 

[On-Wheel]

That dryer is about 3 times bigger than pictured at first without the fork lift picture.Wow!
And that big *** compressor should fill a few basket balls up. BAHAHAHA
https://postimg.org/image/jrce81faz/

 

[EOC_Jason]

I would say Compressor -> Refrigerator Dryer -> Black Canister -> Blue Canister...

 

[Marksextra]

I would say Compressor -> Refrigerator Dryer -> Black Canister -> Blue Canister...

I think you are right. It's going to take me awhile to get this all set up correctly.

Here's a diagram in the dryer manual

 

[MagKarl]

No - the black Parker can is the moisture separator, blue is likely coalescer.

Look the the diagram, compressor, moisture separator, coalescer, dryer.

 

[Marksextra]

No - the black Parker can is the moisture separator, blue is likely coalescer.

Look the the diagram, compressor, moisture separator, coalescer, dryer.

English... I'm going to need you to say that again in English..lol

I don't know anything about a moisture separator or coalescer... I'm now headed to search Google for both of those.

 

[EOC_Jason]

The black Parker canister is a water separator. It removes moisture from the air. It has a sight-glass on the side so you can see how full it is and drain it via a valve on the bottom.

The blue Finite canister is a coalescing filter. It removes oil (think fine oil from the pump) and particulates out of the air.

Honestly its up to you how you want to do it... The refrigerator dryer should remove most, if not all of the moisture. I would put the two canisters near the end of your run, but that's just me.

 

[Marksextra]

The black Parker canister is a water separator. It removes moisture from the air. It has a sight-glass on the side so you can see how full it is and drain it via a valve on the bottom.

The blue Finite canister is a coalescing filter. It removes oil (think fine oil from the pump) and particulates out of the air.

Honestly its up to you how you want to do it... The refrigerator dryer should remove most, if not all of the moisture. I would put the two canisters near the end of your run, but that's just me.

ahhh......thank you for the descriptions. That makes sense. I think I agree with you about placement. I see in the diagram I posted that they mention both in both pre and post dryer positions. So to me, it seems like, does a guy want the filters to take the primary hit or the dryer to take the primary hit. I'd have to leave that discussion to more educated people than me. For now, at least in the very short term, it may come down to how they had it plumbed because I'd like to try it out immediately. They have it plumbed with what looks to be 2" black pipe. Not something I'll enjoy reconfiguring.

 

[Marksextra]

looking at the diagram again, it does say pre-filter prior to the dryer, but it says (optional) regarding the filter after the dryer. I guess that says it's not optional to have the filter before the dryer. hmmm....

 

[EOC_Jason]

If you just want to test it out you don't have to hook up any of those filters or dryer... Just get a ball valve on the end of the tank and let 'er rip tater chip!

They probably list them before the dryer just to prevent any sort of contaminants from going through said dryer...

 

[Marksextra]

in the diagram in post 50, are the lines above the filters bypass lines with ball valves?

 

[EOC_Jason]

in the diagram in post 50, are the lines above the filters bypass lines with ball valves?

Yes, those -><- triangle things are all ball valves... It's so you can bypass the filters and cut off the airflow if you had to disassemble them without interrupting usage. Totally optional of course...

 

[Marksextra]

Thank you for the confirmation. I am trying to figure out how they had it configured since I have the pieces they gave me. I don't think they had any bypass. I only have the pipe with the two filters. It has 3 points of connection. Either end and what was(past tense) a drop I think.

Two points on the dryer and of course the one point on the compressor. Most of these connections are huge. So I guess the flexible end of the two inline filters goes to the compressor? and the outlet nearest the blue filter connects to the inlet to the dryer? Is the inlet the flexible one? So what's the drop near the flexible end of the pipe with the filters?

Not sure what I'm supposed to use after the air comes out of the dryer. Black pipe, copper? what size? Sorry. I'm brand new to all of this.

Oh and does anyone know why my pictures come out sideways?

 

[sberry]

You stole it. A grand will be free in a hurry, it will save labor for blasting. Forget all that resale ****, hook it up. Blast outside if you can, only take a few minutes to do rusted area. Pull in to a paint booth to spray.

 

[sberry]

I would get a big sand pot and size the gun to make the comp run steady. Sandblast is about speed and usually limited by air, that is super good, this is not a blasting company but nothing beats doing it as fast and easy as it can be done.
Go to a rental place and buy a used Clemco pot, hose etc. You don't need new. If you had a cement slab could scoop sand and use it again.

 

[Marksextra]

I would get a big sand pot and size the gun to make the comp run steady. Sandblast is about speed and usually limited by air, that is super good, this is not a blasting company but nothing beats doing it as fast and easy as it can be done.

Thanks for the great reply. If you have any suggestions for 1. how to hook it up and 2. which sand pot to get I would greatly appreciate it as that's my next purchase after I get this compressor hooked up and running. My local paint shop has one of these for $240

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q8Z79K/?tag=atomicindus08-20

edit: looks like the link I posted is similar to the picture you posted.

 

[sberry]

Those are too cheap and too small. You got such a deal expect to pay a grand or so used or shop the list for one. Spend what it takes.
It's about the sand too. Soft or fine sand for rust, hard sharp sand for paint and they do make a blend.

 

[sberry]

Look at rentals, they list some specs. Shop net a bit, they list cfm specs. A 250 or 300# pot or so. They will list media per hr.
Something about 90 cfm. Ideally the comp should run steady, non stop. It will make short work of this. Ideally you should come up with supplied air hood.
I am not familiar with all the models, there is a,sales guy somewhere that is I am sure.
I built my own, holds 200# and runs 45 minutes or so with from 8 to 10 hp, maybe a bit more. I am not sure of the exact math as I can connect 3 comps, maybe up to 50 cfm. Probably 1/4 noz or so for yours.
Ideally you should find ready made, used is fine.

 

[EOC_Jason]

The server auto-rotates pictures if you take them with your phone holding it vertical (like you normally hold a phone). If you turn your phone sideways to take them landscape, then they are okay when you upload. It's annoying but that's about the easiest fix I know of...

What's the connections on the refrigerated dryer look like?

I'm guessing that flexible hose coming off from the two canisters looks like it goes to your compressor tank. The end coming off the blue canister looks like a 1" flare fitting? Does that mate up correctly to the "IN" connection on the refrigerated dryer? If so, then that's your answer.

The "drop" near the flex hose was probably just an air coupling so you could hook up a hose for miscellaneous things, just there as a matter of convience, or maybe it had a pressure gauge on it?

You probably want to fit a regulator on after the refrigerated dryer, don't think you will need 175 PSI for blasting?

The type of pipe you want to run afterwards is your choice. Black pipe is cheap and durable, but all connections are threaded so you either need to measure everything beforehand and have the store cut/thread for you, or you need your own pipe threader... Copper would be a smidge more expensive, but you can cut & solder the joints easier.

Size is relative to your air flow requirements, total pipe distance, and availability. I don't know the CFM requirements of what you are wanting, I would keep most of your run 1" if at all possible, but realistically you can probably step it down to 3/4" pipe and still have only a minimal pressure drop for your ~90 CFM around 150PSI range...

Thank you for the confirmation. I am trying to figure out how they had it configured since I have the pieces they gave me. I don't think they had any bypass. I only have the pipe with the two filters. It has 3 points of connection. Either end and what was(past tense) a drop I think.

Two points on the dryer and of course the one point on the compressor. Most of these connections are huge. So I guess the flexible end of the two inline filters goes to the compressor? and the outlet nearest the blue filter connects to the inlet to the dryer? Is the inlet the flexible one? So what's the drop near the flexible end of the pipe with the filters?

Not sure what I'm supposed to use after the air comes out of the dryer. Black pipe, copper? what size? Sorry. I'm brand new to all of this.

Oh and does anyone know why my pictures come out sideways?

 

[Marksextra]

Look at rentals, they list some specs. Shop net a bit, they list cfm specs. A 250 or 300# pot or so. They will list media per hr.
Something about 90 cfm. Ideally the comp should run steady, non stop. It will make short work of this. Ideally you should come up with supplied air hood.
I am not familiar with all the models, there is a,sales guy somewhere that is I am sure.
I built my own, holds 200# and runs 45 minutes or so with from 8 to 10 hp, maybe a bit more. I am not sure of the exact math as I can connect 3 comps, maybe up to 50 cfm. Probably 1/4 noz or so for yours.
Ideally you should find ready made, used is fine.

https://chautauqua.craigslist.org/for/d/600lb-sand-blaster-glemco/6470375653.html

https://cleveland.craigslist.org/hvo/d/marco-sand-blaster/6510616444.html

https://cleveland.craigslist.org/tls/d/titan-pot-sand-blaster/6524038367.html

These all seem to be the larger commercial pots. That said, they sure aren't cheap.

 

[Marksextra]

The server auto-rotates pictures if you take them with your phone holding it vertical (like you normally hold a phone). If you turn your phone sideways to take them landscape, then they are okay when you upload. It's annoying but that's about the easiest fix I know of...

What's the connections on the refrigerated dryer look like?

I'm guessing that flexible hose coming off from the two canisters looks like it goes to your compressor tank. The end coming off the blue canister looks like a 1" flare fitting? Does that mate up correctly to the "IN" connection on the refrigerated dryer? If so, then that's your answer.

The "drop" near the flex hose was probably just an air coupling so you could hook up a hose for miscellaneous things, just there as a matter of convience, or maybe it had a pressure gauge on it?

You probably want to fit a regulator on after the refrigerated dryer, don't think you will need 175 PSI for blasting?

The type of pipe you want to run afterwards is your choice. Black pipe is cheap and durable, but all connections are threaded so you either need to measure everything beforehand and have the store cut/thread for you, or you need your own pipe threader... Copper would be a smidge more expensive, but you can cut & solder the joints easier.

Size is relative to your air flow requirements, total pipe distance, and availability. I don't know the CFM requirements of what you are wanting, I would keep most of your run 1" if at all possible, but realistically you can probably step it down to 3/4" pipe and still have only a minimal pressure drop for your ~90 CFM around 150PSI range...

Thanks for this post. I'll take some pictures tomorrow in landscape mode and see how they upload.

I think you're right on the connections. and do you have a suggestion for a regulator? And just regular 3/4 and 1" copper water pipe can handle 175psi?

 

[sberry]

No pics to the third unit but number 2 is a steal, lots of stuff there Breathing air filter, dryers, lots of goodies, hoses. Number 1 is plain and way huge.

 

[EOC_Jason]

I think you're right on the connections. and do you have a suggestion for a regulator? And just regular 3/4 and 1" copper water pipe can handle 175psi?

Type L is what you would want to use as it is a thicker wall...

Just find a regulator that will meet your CFM demands, I honestly can't recommend one brand over another.

 

[metty]

Man you made out like a bandit!

 

[Marksextra]

Got it fired up today. Had to replace some wiring to the tune of $200 but it ran well after that. Tried to upload a video but it says invalid file..It's a .mov file.

Oh and I tried taking a picture with the camera in landscape and apparently it transfers correctly as previously suggested. so thanks for the help on that.

 

[EOC_Jason]

Man that thing is just crazy big... *drools*...

 

[Marksextra]

Man that thing is just crazy big... *drools*...

Lol.. thanks man. Pretty happy to get it and that it works.. I let it run and it shut off when the pressure reached 185psi. Then I bled off air to see when the compressor kicked back on and it was 115psi.. It's a little louder than I thought it would be, but not bad. I think I'll build a small three sided room around it to muffle things.


So I was talking to my buddy the mechanic about getting together so we could plumb it and change the oil and he asked me a question I didn't know the answer to...

He asked me when do I turn on the dryer? 5 minutes prior the compressor? same time?And/ Or do I need to turn it on at all if I plan on using the compressor for just a little bit? Never used one so I don't know.

 

[EOC_Jason]

Not really sure... I would find a PDF manual online for that model or at least one that is similar and see what it says.

 

[Marksextra]

The guys says it's still for sale and he got it in as partial payment for something. He doesn't know much about it or if it's complete. I think that means there's room for negotiating on price.

What can go wrong with these things?

https://akroncanton.craigslist.org/tls/d/clemco-scwsand-blaster/6506123356.html

 

[Marksextra]

https://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/tls/d/chemco-sandblaster-northville/6505589244.html

long drive for me would add to the cost

 

[Marksextra]

https://chautauqua.craigslist.org/for/d/600lb-sand-blaster-glemco/6470375653.html

near me but pricey

 

[Marksextra]

https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/hvo/d/clemco-and-empire-sandblasters/6504282867.html

I ended up buying this one. I negotiated the price down. Super nice guy. Hes giving me all the hoses and helmet with breathing compressor. Everything he's got.

 

[Marksextra]

was thinking of selling this compressor and assembly. any idea what I should ask?