Need help removing these brad nails

[FTG-05]

My wife has an antique drying rack. One of the lower drying rods broke off, requiring replacement before the rack can be used again.

At the fixed end, they didn't use glue (as far as I can tell), they used short braid nails. The nails do not extend through to the other side. So, the only way to get to them is from the head end.

The heads are essentially flush; you could just about feel a little grab with your fingernail, but that's about it. I have a pair of side cutters, but they are not flush cut. I also tried to get a small screwdriver down under the head to see if I could pry it up. I started damaging the wood, which is a non-starter with my wife.

Pics of the two brad nails are shown below. I'm open to all suggestions as long as I can reuse the existing wood and not damage it (much) further.

Help me GJ, you're my only hope!

 

[Sevenhills1952]

All you can do is grab best you can with cutters, piece of wood (dowel?) under it for leverage to pry it out. Dig in enough to grab.
No other choice.

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[rlitman]

Side cutters don't have jaws that get close enough to grab that head. I wouldn't start with that.

Some nail pulling pry bars may be sharp enough to grab onto that. You can sharpen them to get closer too. And put a shim under the spot you're leveraging against to prevent damage.

The tips on my slid hammer nail puller will grab flush with the surface, so that might work (again, leveraging over a shim).

 

[cnttxmdc]

The only thing that comes to mind is trying to get a small pair of bullnose cutters. If that doesn’t work, I’d go the route of tapping from the back side, as suggested above.

 

[FTG-05]

Side cutters don't have jaws that get close enough to grab that head. I wouldn't start with that.

Some nail pulling pry bars may be sharp enough to grab onto that. You can sharpen them to get closer too. And put a shim under the spot you're leveraging against to prevent damage.

The tips on my slid hammer nail puller will grab flush with the surface, so that might work (again, leveraging over a shim).

Which slide hammer nail puller do you have? Thanks,

 

[FTG-05]

The only thing that comes to mind is trying to get a small pair of bullnose cutters. If that doesn’t work, I’d go the route of tapping from the back side, as suggested above.

Who recommended going in from the backside? The nail(s) don't extend to the other side.

 

[rlitman]

Which slide hammer nail puller do you have? Thanks,

Mine is a century old Giant IIRC. Crescent makes these now:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002N7SD/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[cnttxmdc]

Who recommended going in from the backside? The nail(s) don't extend to the other side.

I misunderstood something someone else wrote, plus the photos didn’t come through initially.

Another thought would be to get a dremel and tiny dental shaped cone bit to surgically remove some surrounding wood so you can get some better access to it. If the wood is going to get damaged any, at least it would be on your terms. You can plan on replacing it with a fancier looking brad nail with a larger head, or fill it in with a wood epoxy and re-drill.

 

[rlitman]

Who recommended going in from the backside? The nail(s) don't extend to the other side.

Well, one option would be to forcefully remove the rod from its socket, around the brad. Twist out, break and pull what you can, being careful not to split the rail. Then use a small (under half the diameter) drill bit to excavate needle nose pliers to pick out the chunks. Once you have an empty socket with a brad sticking into it, you can put a slotted screwdriver's flat sideways on the tip of the brad (in the hole), and tap on the shaft with a small hammer to inch the brad out enough to grab.

One risk from pulling is pulling out splinters. If you're lifting chunks, it might make sense to snip the head off, grind a flat tip on another nail, and use it to drive this one into an empty hole for retrieval from the inside (where splinters won't be noticed).

 

[RacerX]

Have a tig welder? Put a small washer over the top of the head and tig it to the bead, then pry the washer and brad up together.

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[rlitman]

Have a tig welder? Put a small washer over the top of the head and tig it to the bead, then pry the washer and brad up together.

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I'm sure the wife will love the look of the charred circle under that after you're done welding there.

 

[RacerX]

I'm sure the wife will love the look of the charred circle under that after you're done welding there.

Mig would char, I doubt a quick hit of tig will.

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[MikeinNorthWales]

Spread the rails apart a bit with shims so you can reach in with the blade of a multi-tool, hack saw blade, steak knife, whatever, to cut the dowel. Do this on both ends and you should be able to misalign them enough to get to the holes and dowel ends. Drill, pick, dremel the end pieces out of the holes exposing the brads. You should be able to push them out or cut and pull them in.

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[icthruu74]

How about a tack puller?

 

[velocipede]

Looks like you might be able to slide a thin pull saw between the rails and cut the rod off. Then, if you can access the stub, split it along the same axis as the nail, pull the pieces out and push the nail out with some thin nose pliers.

 

[Old Man Roger]

Can you punch them through? When removing trim we always punched the nail through rather than trying to pull it out.

 

[JimDon]

You need a new tool. Diagonals will be too thick to reach the head, but heavy duty toe nail clippers are of the same design with very angled and slim cutting head. (Google toe nail clippers and you'll see what I mean.) They are generally stainless so I think they'll stand up for what you want to do, but they may be close to toast once you're done. I think those cutters will grip the heads nicely without even damaging the surrounding area. By the way, there were some really good alternative suggestions from everybody on this project.
Cheers and good luck,
JimDon

 

[The Cobbler]

dull flush cut side cutters would be what I would try , with a putty knife below it to protect the wood

 

[speed bump]

Tack puller, putty knife, needle nose and patience. Repair as needed afterwards (some water to raise the grain, maybe some filler).

If you want to over think it. Cut the dowel flush and drill it down to the tack.

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

Why not use a straight cut toe nail clipper. You may ruin it but if it does the job who cares.

 

[Sevenhills1952]

Why not use a straight cut toe nail clipper. You may ruin it but if it does the job who cares.

Toenails look like cut with pinking shears and they put runs in your hose.

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[Miss the Pontiacs]

That would be better than cutting your hose with shears and putting pink on your toes.

 

[kctyphoon]

Get a small flathead screwdriver and just tap it under the head of the nail on one side. Put a paint stick, or anything really, between the screwdriver and the wood - and just pry it up enough so the head stick out enough to grab it with something else..

I mean, how delicate do we need to be here? You can also just get a razor blade and carve out a small circle of wood around the nail to expose the head.

Does this really have to be like artifact treatement with no evidence it was ever touched?

A cheap set of mini diagonals from like hf or husky would probably work great.. like, electronic repair size. One of those $5 tool deals.. i mean, it almost looks like a decent pair of needle nose pliers would grab that head just enough.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Platinu...c6iRH0NbRf09yYsPR3saAq_gEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[bugnut]

I am assuming you want to replace the broken rod.
Cut off the rod at each end
At about the center of the nailed rod drill a small hole about 1/2 the size of the rod
Using a small saw or screw driver collapse the remaining rod into the center of the newly drilled hole
This will allow the brad to protrude into the rod hole and leave material to grip
Then either push the brad out from the center so you can grab the head or pull it to the centerline and thru the rod hole.
Use a scrap of wood or plastic to protect the existing wood.

 

[westcoastkevin]

Cut the dowel.
Pull out the dowel end off the nail.
Then drive out the nail from the inside.
If you want to save the dowel.
Cut it at an angle, very extreme and reassemble later as a scarf joint.

 

[FTG-05]

Mine is a century old Giant IIRC. Crescent makes these now:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002N7SD/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Ok, thanks, now I know what to look for!

I misunderstood something someone else wrote, plus the photos didn’t come through initially.

Another thought would be to get a dremel and tiny dental shaped cone bit to surgically remove some surrounding wood so you can get some better access to it. If the wood is going to get damaged any, at least it would be on your terms. You can plan on replacing it with a fancier looking brad nail with a larger head, or fill it in with a wood epoxy and re-drill.

Yea, this is probably what I'm going to do, get under it somehow, then use a larger headed nail to cover the destruction form my wife. Thanks!

Well, one option would be to forcefully remove the rod from its socket, around the brad. Twist out, break and pull what you can, being careful not to split the rail. Then use a small (under half the diameter) drill bit to excavate needle nose pliers to pick out the chunks. Once you have an empty socket with a brad sticking into it, you can put a slotted screwdriver's flat sideways on the tip of the brad (in the hole), and tap on the shaft with a small hammer to inch the brad out enough to grab.

One risk from pulling is pulling out splinters. If you're lifting chunks, it might make sense to snip the head off, grind a flat tip on another nail, and use it to drive this one into an empty hole for retrieval from the inside (where splinters won't be noticed).

Actually, that's the first thing I tried, so now both dowels are broken off flush with their respective holes.

Thanks for the help guys, I appreciate it!

 

[Sevenhills1952]

Get a small flathead screwdriver and just tap it under the head of the nail on one side. Put a paint stick, or anything really, between the screwdriver and the wood - and just pry it up enough so the head stick out enough to grab it with something else..

I mean, how delicate do we need to be here? You can also just get a razor blade and carve out a small circle of wood around the nail to expose the head.

Does this really have to be like artifact treatement with no evidence it was ever touched?

A cheap set of mini diagonals from like hf or husky would probably work great.. like, electronic repair size. One of those $5 tool deals.. i mean, it almost looks like a decent pair of needle nose pliers would grab that head just enough.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Platinu...c6iRH0NbRf09yYsPR3saAq_gEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

"A cheap set of mini diagonals from like hf or husky would probably work great.. like, electronic repair size. One of those $5 tool deals"

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Pl...PR3saAq_gEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

That's what I was talking about. I have lots of those small electronic cutters, they're flush so it would grab the brad easily. Anything under it like a putty knife gives leverage to pry it out.
Or but another from an antique store and lighter fluid, making sure you light the right one.

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[dogdog]

https://www.grainger.com/product/5L...MIxvC_3bWu3gIVlVcNCh075QutEAYYASABEgLsi_D_BwE

This look a like end nibbler thing... grab , roll and lift it out like a on the side as leverage... .... even though I hated channel lock... but I am too lazy to look for other pics... plenty of other el-cheapo around great for nail pulling

 

[rlitman]

Ok, thanks, now I know what to look for!
...
Actually, that's the first thing I tried, so now both dowels are broken off flush with their respective holes...

Even if it doesn't help here, a slide hammer nail puller can be a real godsend at times. It's positively worth grabbing one for the 15 bucks they tend to go for at flea markets, if you don't have one already. Here, I'll point out that this style grabber is the only type that can pull a nail directly by the shank after the head has pulled off.

Ok, if the dowels are broken off flush, then definitely clear the dowel ends out of the holes before working on the nail. Dowels are cut on the long grain, so if you can drill some holes through the dowel, you'll be able to pull long chunks out with needle nose pliers until the inside of the brad is visible. If it ends in the hole, then use the screwdriver method I mentioned. If it passes through the hole (but doesn't exit the other side), grab it with your needle nose pliers and tap on the pliers sideways to move it (this is a common procedure with cotter pins).

 

[jfleisher]

Use a pair of Xuron flush cutters. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GXHF2JK/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Put a small metal washer over the nail head to protect the wood, and lever the flush cutters against the washer. No wood damage and the flush cutter will be able to draw the nail out enough to get another type of pliers onto it. The cutters will probably be toast afterwards, but hey, they're $12.

 

[jcal]

Can't seem to post a link to amazon...

Do a search for Spring loaded nail set tool

 

[Davefr]

Use a pair of Xuron flush cutters. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GXHF2JK/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Put a small metal washer over the nail head to protect the wood, and lever the flush cutters against the washer. No wood damage and the flush cutter will be able to draw the nail out enough to get another type of pliers onto it. The cutters will probably be toast afterwards, but hey, they're $12.

^^^What he said. Those brads will come out easy with his advise.