Need help wiring my heater

[jam022316]

So I am needing to wire up 240v for my electric heater. It stated I need 10 gauge wire and it requires 21 amps. Do I buy 10-2 or 10-3? Also I'm assuming I need a 25 amp breaker double pole single throw breaker correct? If they don't have that is a 30 amp ok? I imagine it can't be a 20 since it draws more than 20. Any help you can give will be much appreciated.

thanks!
Jim

 

[matt151617]

You need a 30 amp double breaker. I don't believe there is a 25, but 10 gauge is rated for 30 amps anyways. You'll need 10/2 (orange in color). Black and white come off each breaker slot and provide power. Ground to ground bar and probably tied to the case. There should be a green screw for it inside the heater.

Read the directions. Unless it specifies 10/3 you can use 10/2 and have no neutral. I don't think most heaters use a neutral.

Remember, be careful! Double check your connections are tight and secure. Triple check and test the power in the panel is off before working in it. Never assume anything when working with electricity.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Heaters and lighting are considered continuous loads by the NEC. As a result, you must use wiring and breakers that are rated for at least 125% of the heater's load requirement. To put it another way, you cannot load a heater circuit over 80% of rating.

21 amps times 125% is 26.25 amps so you will need a 30 amp breaker and circuit. As already noted, if the heater does not require a neutral for things such as a 120v fan motor installed inside it, then 10/2 w/grd will be fine. When you install this, you need to remark the ends of the white wire, I use a red marker to color the exposed white insulation to red.

Charles

 

[jam022316]

Thank you both for the quick responses. Another question, there is an on off switch on the front of the heater. If I'm not tall enough to reach it I'd like to off on/off switch wired in between the breaker box and the outlet to control on/off. However the only switch I could find was a 30 amp fused switch. Will I have power loss or cause any problems having a 30 amp fused on off switch and a 30 amp breaker on the same line?

 

[cort]

I would be curious to see what you are using for a 30A "on/off" switch that is fused. In theory, there should not be a problem with voltage drop across the switch for the load, but I wonder if your switch is really a breaker. Sometimes, breakers are not meant to be switching at full load. If you really have a switch rated at 30A then don't sweat it.

 

[jam022316]

I don't have a pic of the exact one but it's identical to this.

http://www.deanbennett.com/electrical-items-for-pump-installation.htm

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Any electrical supply house, and probably Home Despot, and B(L)owes will have double pole 30 amp "light switches" which you can put in a box with a cover plate.

Leviton color codes their switches, the ones with green fronts on them are 30 amp, red fronts are 20 amp, and blue ones are 15 amp.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpItmDspRte.jsp?item=410032&section=10046&minisite=10026

If you look at the product specs, you will see it is a 30 amp switch, It also is motor rated for 2 hp motors, and then states "24 amp" do not get confused by this. Motor ratings are generally never as high a rating as lighting/resistance load ratings are, due to the high current inrush of a motor upon starting.

Be sure and use a large box, probably a 4x4 square 2-1/8" deep, to allow enough room for the stiff 10 gauge wire.

Charles

 

[jam022316]

That's awesome didn't know they made those. Thanks!

 

[2LTim]

Before you add a switch between the panel and the heater, consider this: Most heaters have an on/off switch to control the heating element, but not the fan. This allows the fan to continue to run until the unit "cools" down sufficiently before the fan stops. If you install a switch that cuts all power to the unit, you risk damaging the unit due to improper shut down methods.
You might be better off to remotely locate the "Panel" power switch to the wall so you don't mess up this automatic feature of your heater. Chances are, the wiring will not be as large and cumbersome as the 10/2 you would otherwise be dealing with.

 

[jam022316]

Ok, thanks to you guys I was able to wire up my outlet just fine. To the advice of 2LTim I did not install a switch in between. I checked all my connections with a multimeter and they were perfect. However heater would not turn on even if it though it was getting power? Returned it, got another, same thing. I really don't think it's me, I'm guessing it's the chinese made pos. Here it is just fyi for everyone, I would highly recommend not buying this heater:

http://www.amazon.com/Soleus-HI1-50-03-Electric-Adjustable-Louvers/dp/B0042AM2AK

 

[brucer]

jam92102,

I installed one of the soleus units last month, so far mine works great..
I used an old dryer plug connected to the unit.. ran 10/2 to a 30amp receptacle, using dbl pole breaker..
works great so far, i would like to run a switch to the wall though..


dbl check your wiring inside the back panel, make sure your not getting the leads swapped around. most dryer plugs will have the ground marked all the way to the plug..

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=124680&highlight=soleus

 

[jam022316]

jam92102,

I installed one of the soleus units last month, so far mine works great..
I used an old dryer plug connected to the unit.. ran 10/2 to a 30amp receptacle, using dbl pole breaker..
works great so far, i would like to run a switch to the wall though..


dbl check your wiring inside the back panel, make sure your not getting the leads swapped around. most dryer plugs will have the ground marked all the way to the plug..

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=124680&highlight=soleus

i thought about that but i even hit it with the multi meter with it plugged in and the two posts supposed to be getting power were the ones getting power. i even switched the two power leads in case that would make a difference. still very possible i was doing something wrong, just dont know what that would be

 

[matt151617]

Does the heater require a neutral? That could be the problem.

Edit: I see it has a fan so it requires a neutral. You ran 10/3 correct? Are you absolutely certain each wire is secured where it should be? Test the 120 off each leg to the ground and neutral and make sure your multimeter shows 120v.

 

[Alchymist]

Two comments - 1) does the heater have provisions for an external thermostat? If so, either install one or jumper it.
2) Toggle switch for disconnect:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AUCWIA/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[brucer]

i ran 10/2, 30amp dbl pole breaker, 2 hots and ground..
connection in the heater L1 hot/ L2 hot/ ground


are you turning the switch on in the front of the heater?

 

[jam022316]

i ran 10/2, 30amp dbl pole breaker, 2 hots and ground..
connection in the heater L1 hot/ L2 hot/ ground


are you turning the switch on in the front of the heater?

That is correct and that's how I had it wired. To test I put my multimeter on the ground and tested l1 and l2 and both were getting 120. i turned the switch to on and left it there. Even hit the reset button on the top numerous times. I took it back and the second one did the same thing. Don't know what's up

Ended up ordering this one. I'm hoping I have better luck with it.
http://menards.com/main/heating-cooling/electric-heat/portable-heaters/5000w-240v-unit-heater/p-134187-c-6333.htm

 

[pentavolvo]

Where in Indiana are you. I am in Lafayette, and curious how much heat that puts out before I pick one up

 

[porcupine73]

That is correct and that's how I had it wired. To test I put my multimeter on the ground and tested l1 and l2 and both were getting 120.

How much do you measure between L1 and L2?