mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
You are attacking a hill that Norcal has committed his life to defending.Lol so 115v won’t run that motor cause it’s not from Asia ?
You are attacking a hill that Norcal has committed his life to defending.Lol so 115v won’t run that motor cause it’s not from Asia ?
Man hate to discuss about the metric system with him thenYou are attacking a hill that Norcal has committed his life to defending.
That's totally wrong for small motors like the OP is talking about, maybe true for larger motors. If the motor overheats enough (due to voltage drop, overload, etc) then the temp cutout in the motor (which most should have, don't know if all do) will eventually trip. It's hard on the motor to get that hot - I have seen motors where the paint discolors from the heat before the winding protector trips although in that case it was a motor that was powered for hours and not turning. The temp protector would open the circuit and after it cooled slightly it would turn on again. And it may not pull enough current to trip a breaker. Excess voltage drop may also prevent a motor from coming up to full speed too. Running saws on long, too light extension cords is a good way to run into this problem - been there done that but realized the problem immediately and shut things off before it caused any damage.If the motor is overheating due to voltage drop, then the overloads are not working properly
Lol so 115v won’t run that motor cause it’s not from Asia ?

So, I have a theoretical (probably silly, but curiosity makes me wonder)... we all know about single phase, and 3 phase power... would it be possible to build a generator winding to provide 5 phase power, would that make it 100 Hz? Would it be smoother than 3 phase?
I wonder if you do the math how would you determine the 100Vac 60hz would not run a 120Vac 60hz motor ? I am not a motor expert..No, because the voltage in Japan is 100 VAC. I'm still trying to figure out the 32 VDC generators... if you hooked 4 in series, could you run a 120V light bulb?
im not talking about a temp protector that is tied to a temp sensor that is found in some motors. im literally talking about the overloads ie the red reset buttonThat's totally wrong for small motors like the OP is talking about, maybe true for larger motors. If the motor overheats enough (due to voltage drop, overload, etc) then the temp cutout in the motor (which most should have, don't know if all do) will eventually trip. It's hard on the motor to get that hot - I have seen motors where the paint discolors from the heat before the winding protector trips although in that case it was a motor that was powered for hours and not turning. The temp protector would open the circuit and after it cooled slightly it would turn on again. And it may not pull enough current to trip a breaker. Excess voltage drop may also prevent a motor from coming up to full speed too. Running saws on long, too light extension cords is a good way to run into this problem - been there done that but realized the problem immediately and shut things off before it caused any damage.
Fair enough. But I seriously doubt the Craftsman table saw in the OP has any such thing.im not talking about a temp protector that is tied to a temp sensor that is found in some motors. im literally talking about the overloads ie the red reset button
and i have a 3hp compressor motor that has a red reset button. when the run capacitor somehow disconnected itself inside the motor, the motor started to overheat and the internal overload tripped before any of the things you mention happened....
No bedroom should be on a 30 amp circuit regardless of whether it's a shared circuit or not. It's probably a 15 amp circuit that someone stuck a 30 amp breaker on. It's possible, but not probable, that it's a 20 amp circuit.It does have a "resettable thermal-overload relay". I've tripped the house breakers a few times using the saw. It's a 15A motor on a 30A circuit that is shared with a bedroom. It's now on it's own 240V (by that I mean the nominal 240V found in the US) circuit.
why? how else is thermal overload protection for the motor supposed to be provided? the breaker wont do itFair enough. But I seriously doubt the Craftsman table saw in the OP has any such thing.
you sure its a 30a circuit? did they use 10ga wire? do you have a picture? that needs to be fixed if the breaker is indeed 30a rated for standard nema 5-15 receptacles...It does have a "resettable thermal-overload relay". I've tripped the house breakers a few times using the saw. It's a 15A motor on a 30A circuit that is shared with a bedroom. It's now on it's own 240V (by that I mean the nominal 240V found in the US) circuit.
The ones I have seen just have a thermal protector in the winding. Some of those are automatic reset and some are manual reset. For this application I think the manual reset would be best and probably required by safety agencies so the saw doesn't restart when not expected. More recent models may have a thermal overload relay - just haven't seen that (or maybe didn't recognize it).why? how else is thermal overload protection for the motor supposed to be provided? the breaker wont do it
I just checked; it's a 15A circuit that is NOT shared with the bedroom. My mistake! Doh! That would explain why the TS was always tripping it; the TS is 15A.you sure its a 30a circuit? did they use 10ga wire? do you have a picture? that needs to be fixed if the breaker is indeed 30a rated for standard nema 5-15 receptacles...
My TS has a manual reset switch on the switch box.The ones I have seen just have a thermal protector in the winding. Some of those are automatic reset and some are manual reset. For this application I think the manual reset would be best and probably required by safety agencies so the saw doesn't restart when not expected. More recent models may have a thermal overload relay - just haven't seen that (or maybe didn't recognize it).