Need help with a project gentleman

[ive]

Hi everyone!

I opened up a cinderblock wall in the basement and put in a new header up top. With a friend I opened up a doorway and we levelled up top but now we have a gap from where we levelled it out with wood shims.

I’d like to put some concrete in the gaps. Should I use some hydraulic cement, or is there something better?

I’ll try and post a pic.

Any ideas?

As always, thanks so much for the input.

 

[ive]

Here’s a pic

 

[ive]

The other side

 

[ive]

Something is bothering me. The shims all went in one way. It wasn’t one end tapered the other thin like it should be.

Do you guys think this will be a problem?

 

[The Cobbler]

the header should be wrapped with vapour barrier material where it touches the concrete. regular mortar would be what I would use to pack in the opening

 

[The Cobbler]

what is the header serving, it looks like it's running parallel to the joists

 

[ive]

Hi.

I never thought of vapour barrier.

There’s 4-5 joists sitting on top of it. There was a smaller one there but we took it out to enlarge the door into a bigger opening.

You think the shims will be ok the way they are or?

 

[ive]

I’m thinking maybe the concrete that comes in the tubes for a caulking gun? That way I can squeeze it in good.

 

[ive]

Just had a thought. What if I try putting shims in from the ends where it’s open more? Drive them in perpendicular.

Thoughts?

 

[tarmy]

How are you “attaching” the header to the support?

Is there a load on the header?

Is the header going to be used as part of a door casing?

Post a pic of the opening with the whole header and how it ties into things...

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

Several things-
No vapor barrier between header/shims and concrete block. The concrete is like a sponge; it will absorb water and it will transfer to the wood. And with that in mind, the shims will deteriorate and you will no longer have a shimmed/level header (cedar shingles aren't made for several thousand lbs of load). If you use PT for shims that would certainly help- from the degradation standpoint. Vapor barrier can be tar/felt paper (2-3 layers), or a single layer of roof shingle.

Whenever my framers ran across a poorly out-of-level foundation (not often, but it did happen a few times), my engineer always wanted steel shims. Basically a piece or two of different plate thicknesses- I got scrap pieces from my i-beam/lintel steel supplier.

 

[ive]

Hi guys.

The load rests on the header and will have no door. It will be a open walkway. I’ll post a pic when I get there.

Ok. Insert a metal shin and vapour barrier.

Thanks for the input guys.

 

[matt_i]

I would second the steel shims. Concentrated load is going to be applied on the bearing surface between header and the concrete wall. With a couple of tapered wooden shims, less than the full footprint, its very likely they are going to be crushed to some other dimension.

The steel should make up for inconsistencies , spread the load very well, and will not change dimension on you.

Another good thing to use imo, would be a piece of peel & stick flashing, to protect the non-treated wood from wicking moisture.

 

[ive]

Hi guys.

Thanks for the help so much.

I’m gonna put steel shims in.

The problem I know have is how to jack that header so I can pull the old shims out and put the new metal ones in?

 

[Milton Shaw]

Regular wood should not be in contact with concrete. Lets an opening for termites to get in. Metal flashing and vapor barrier is needed or change to pressure treated. Either way shield the wood from contact with the concrete and any bugs that might come in. You can get a mortar bag (similar to a cake decorating bag) and fill any gaps with sand/cement grout.

 

[ive]

Ok. Understood.

 

[ive]

Gentlemen, just talked to my wife and she wants to know this.

If I put more shims in from every angle, leave the existing ones, so this thing is just plugged with them and put fast drying concrete over it, how likely is it that something will go wrong?

 

[jdewitt]

The problem I know have is how to jack that header so I can pull the old shims out and put the new metal ones in?

If you don't have something better, you can use a 2x4 jack

 

[jdewitt]

If I put more shims in from every angle, leave the existing ones, so this thing is just plugged with them and put fast drying concrete over it, how likely is it that something will go wrong?

Problem with that is moisture from the concrete and eventual rot.

 

[jdewitt]

How is the header attached to the wall? It needs to tie into the wall with a mechanical connection and not rely on gravity / mortar.

 

[rsanter]

Hi guys.

Thanks for the help so much.

I’m gonna put steel shims in.

The problem I know have is how to jack that header so I can pull the old shims out and put the new metal ones in?

Floor jack or bottle jack and a post will lift that header enough.

No, don’t just keep adding shims.
Use steel shims on the bottom.
Brush something on that wood that will resist moisture and then wrap with a barrier like has been mentioned before.
Fill voids with grout or at least caulking

 

[Stadger]

Mike Holmes wouldn't like it.

 

[Mr. T]

Mike Holmes wouldn't like it.

“Spray foam...”

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

Gentlemen, just talked to my wife and she wants to know this.

If I put more shims in from every angle, leave the existing ones, so this thing is just plugged with them and put fast drying concrete over it, how likely is it that something will go wrong?

Did you forget the previous posts?

To borrow a phrase (since somebody just had to bring up the name)- "Do it once; do it right"!

In your case- do it twice! But at least it will be right!!!

 

[ive]

The header just sits on the wall. Are you saying put in a jack?

 

[ive]

Jack stand?

 

[mbatarga]

Dude- post a picture of the entire door opening so we can see and understand what this installation looks like. Shims are used to make something level or plumb. You don't just use shims as "stuffing" to fill in gaps from poor measurements or craftsmanship.

 

[ive]

Hi guys.

I’ll post pics tomorrow of the entire thing, at work now.

You guys are right. I’ll pull out the wood and put metal shims and a vapour barrier.

Questions;

Do I have to wrap the entire header in moisture barrier or just where it sits on the cinder blocks?

How can I level the cut on top of the cinder blocks so the metal shims sit nice and flat?

I understand what you are saying mbatarga.

Thanks for bearing with me guys. It’s my first time doing something like this. You guys have made me realize I need to do it right.

Thanks again everyone. Pictures tomorrow.

To all a good night.

 

[ive]

Hi guys.

Pictures

 

[ive]

Input?

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

Add blocking between joist ends.

 

[The Cobbler]

Add blocking between joist ends.

the joists should have a rim joist nailed to the ends of the joists

 

[ive]

Will do

 

[ive]

Guys, I plan on putting flat bar underneath and then when it’s close to use metal shims. Can I buy metal shims at Home Depot or do I go to a industrial supply?