I want to put a wood stove in my basement and run the chimney out the casement window by removing the windows and replacing them with metal. The only problem is that I have an upstairs window directly above the basement windows. As a result, I will have to put a 45 degree pipe to get out through the window and two more 45 degree angles in the chimney to get around the upstairs window. Is this going to be too many angles (3) to get the smoke out and up to the top of the chimney? Thanks for any help.
Need help with a wood stove, please
- Thread starter jwillis
- Start date
trbomax
Well-known member
yes. You could get away with 2,but not 4.
Highbeam
Well-known member
No. Your stove requires a certain chimney height to function as designed. Often about 14 feet. Each angle in the flue takes away from the height. I'll need to look it up but it is something like every 90 degrees worth of bends is a 3 foot loss.
So if your stove requires 14' and you have 4 - 45 degree fittings then you'll need a 20' chimney.
We need to know your overall height and the stove's requirement before we can tell you if the chimney will be sufficient.
If the chimney was 100 feet high, then you could puts lots of bends in.
I'm not sure you can get 45 degree bends in class A pipe anymore. Once you pass through the wall, you must convert to class A which will be expensive.
So if your stove requires 14' and you have 4 - 45 degree fittings then you'll need a 20' chimney.
We need to know your overall height and the stove's requirement before we can tell you if the chimney will be sufficient.
If the chimney was 100 feet high, then you could puts lots of bends in.
I'm not sure you can get 45 degree bends in class A pipe anymore. Once you pass through the wall, you must convert to class A which will be expensive.
I am only going to have three 45 degree angles. Not four.
As you can see in the two pictures, both basement windows have a window above them. In fact, all of my basement windows do. I want to come out of the window on the right and go up to the left of the right window. The large gray cable coming down the center of the building is the main electrical feed to the meter. So, I will have to stay as far away from that as possible. The other cable goes to the DIRECTV box which I figure I can easily move. So, I will only need three bends to get up to the top of the house.
From the peak of the roof to the ground is about 17". Add 2 feet to get above the roof (19) and another 3 feet from the ground to the top of the stove and the chimney should be about 22+ feet tall. I plan on using the one layer black stove pipe. The guys on here said that the one layer thickness- 6 inch pipe should be plenty good. So, if I need to clean it, I should be able to just take it apart. The guys at Menards told me the same thing- that people just use their one thickness black pipe. So, what do you guys think?
You cannot run 45's on all fuel. You can on the vent connector, from the stove breech to the connection to your all fuel. I would strongly recommend that you use the double wall connector pipe for reduced clearance and operation. Selkirk and Dura-vent are models DS and DVL respectively. Both manuf have excellent online manuals, btw. NFPA211 and perhaps more importantly, your insurance company will not allow the 45 offset. Max offset from vertical with a solid fuel chimney is 30*. All fuel manuf make 15's & 30's.
You will need a tee with clean out at the base of the chimney. Can you locate this so you can box in a part of a closet upstairs and run it that way? You will be happier both in appearance and operation. Oh and cost too!
You will need a tee with clean out at the base of the chimney. Can you locate this so you can box in a part of a closet upstairs and run it that way? You will be happier both in appearance and operation. Oh and cost too!
You are going to have a draft and creosote nightmare on your hands.Shop Specialties
Well-known member
As soon as you go through the window you need to use ALL-FUEL pipe. This is per code for obvious safety reasons. I prefer to use Metalbestos/Selkirk Ultra-Temp, it is stainless steel inside and out with only a 2" clearance to combustibles. They have 15* and 30* elbow adapters to move the pipe over just as far as you need.
It is not a good idea to route your exhaust to the cold air below the highest insulated point in your house. You will have severe draft problems with your proposed setup. Any of the good chimney suppliers will have installation instructions on their web sites. You can get all the info there.
Yes you see pretty stone chimneys outside the house all over the place. Very nice looking, poor functionality.
Yes you see pretty stone chimneys outside the house all over the place. Very nice looking, poor functionality.
lzenglish
Well-known member
Yes, and the EPA has wood burning on there hit list. Last winter we had over 30+ no burn days for staight wood, but allot less for a certified pellet stove. Just something to consider. Google it!
Wayne
GYOGI65
Well-known member
Possible to just punch a hole in the concrete and run straight where it looks good .
burleymike
Well-known member
+1 for making a hole in the stem wall and solving the problem.
OK. I can go along with the 30 degree bend. I didn't know what the angles were. I would like to have a pellet stove except for the three cords of wood I have in my back yard. And the easy access I have to so much wood. The double walled chimney will be fine, too. I have talked with a lot of people on here and they said they use the single walled black pipe and it works fine. People at Tractor Supply, who sell it, tell me the same thing. Cleaning the creosote out should not be a problem. It is cheap enough- all I have to do is replace it.
Single wall should never be used outside or for the through wall portion.
An incorrect and uninspected wood burning install will likely allow your home insurance to tell you to pound sand when your house burns down.
If you think someone working retail at menards or tsc knows proper install methods for a woodburning chimmney i've got a bridge for sale you might like.
Sent from my SPH-D600 using Tapatalk 2
An incorrect and uninspected wood burning install will likely allow your home insurance to tell you to pound sand when your house burns down.
If you think someone working retail at menards or tsc knows proper install methods for a woodburning chimmney i've got a bridge for sale you might like.
Sent from my SPH-D600 using Tapatalk 2
Are you prepared to deal with the 18" clearance of single wall pipe vs the 6" for the double wall? Single wall works, yes! It does not work as well as double wall and the system operation will absolutely improve with double wall pipe. You have real issues with the height of this system, as proposed with a tee/clean out at the base of the stack.
I represented Dura-vent and Selkirk in my business for many years. I had more than a few people with these types of system lay-outs who were surprised at the amount of rainwater that could come out of a wood stove.
I represented Dura-vent and Selkirk in my business for many years. I had more than a few people with these types of system lay-outs who were surprised at the amount of rainwater that could come out of a wood stove.
Stee6043
Well-known member
For what it's worth I paid less than $200 to have a 9" hole cored out of my foundation to allow for 6" Duravent to pass through and go stratight up the side of my house (with a chase). I'd bet in your case you'd save money by coring in a place you don't need all of the angle pieces. Assuming you do this safely (with proper UL pipe) you'll find that the angle pieces will cost more than the hole in your wall.
I have six or so feet of pipe leading up to the foundation exit that is at a 60 degree angle and I get very good draft on all but the very coldest days (sub zero). That being said, I have 24' of pipe vertical outside the house and my heating appliance is forced draft, which helps.
I have six or so feet of pipe leading up to the foundation exit that is at a 60 degree angle and I get very good draft on all but the very coldest days (sub zero). That being said, I have 24' of pipe vertical outside the house and my heating appliance is forced draft, which helps.
Garage Flooring
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Lots of good info here. Lets start with a couple of things that look they have already been covered, but I want to make sure.
-- Download an owners manual if you do not have one. All of what you can and can not do is covered in the manual. Typically you are allowed two offsets. An offset is an elbow, a short piece of pipe and a return.
-- You have two different sections of pipe. Your interior pipe is either single wall or double wall pipe. In this case you will be much better off with double wall.
[I do not know what part of the country you are in but if there is an RW Specialties near you call them, ask for there sales rep. Alternatively go to nficertified.org and find a retail store with a certified salesperson. They should be willing to come out to your house, measure and tell you exactly what you need (I always did). They will also know what code and the AHJ will accept]
Keep in mind that typically a stove in the basement sits below the pressure point in a house. Add to that the fact that you have two offsets and you really might have some issues. The higher up those offsets are the better you will be.
You can do 15 degree or 30 degree offsets once you leave the house. there are very specific restrictions as to clearances to windows, corners, combustibles etc. Remember glass is considered combustibles as is any non combustible which is over a combustible.
Your pipe, on the outside of the house... Make sure you use ASHT pipe if available for your unit. Cold pipe cools down smoke and kills draft and causes creosote.
SERIOUSLY THOUGH this is not a forum question. Get a local person who knows the industry to check everything for you. It should be free. They want to make money on the pipe
-- Download an owners manual if you do not have one. All of what you can and can not do is covered in the manual. Typically you are allowed two offsets. An offset is an elbow, a short piece of pipe and a return.
-- You have two different sections of pipe. Your interior pipe is either single wall or double wall pipe. In this case you will be much better off with double wall.
[I do not know what part of the country you are in but if there is an RW Specialties near you call them, ask for there sales rep. Alternatively go to nficertified.org and find a retail store with a certified salesperson. They should be willing to come out to your house, measure and tell you exactly what you need (I always did). They will also know what code and the AHJ will accept]
Keep in mind that typically a stove in the basement sits below the pressure point in a house. Add to that the fact that you have two offsets and you really might have some issues. The higher up those offsets are the better you will be.
You can do 15 degree or 30 degree offsets once you leave the house. there are very specific restrictions as to clearances to windows, corners, combustibles etc. Remember glass is considered combustibles as is any non combustible which is over a combustible.
Your pipe, on the outside of the house... Make sure you use ASHT pipe if available for your unit. Cold pipe cools down smoke and kills draft and causes creosote.
SERIOUSLY THOUGH this is not a forum question. Get a local person who knows the industry to check everything for you. It should be free. They want to make money on the pipe
Highbeam
Well-known member
Not an uncommon install. Out of the stemwall and up the side of the house. It can work just fine. Seriously, this is so common that the manufacturer's literature will often show it. People don't like running the pipe through their homes. The "up the outside wall" install is the most expensive way to do it since Class A is so expensive but it is dang easy.
-Class A pipe (the silver insulated double wall) from the wall penetration to the cap. This is code, not an optional thing. It is often called chimney pipe vs. the black stove pipe in the room with the stove.
I would cut a hole through the stemwall. Feed through the wall into a tee, cap on bottom, and then run the class A vertical to the cap. You'll have a 90 degree bend (or pair of 45s) inside with the standard single wall or double wall stove pipe and then the tee outside with 22 feet of vertical to provide draft.
I burn wood for 100% of my home heating. It is work to get the wood, and to burn it, but the heat is cheap and very pleasant.
-Class A pipe (the silver insulated double wall) from the wall penetration to the cap. This is code, not an optional thing. It is often called chimney pipe vs. the black stove pipe in the room with the stove.
I would cut a hole through the stemwall. Feed through the wall into a tee, cap on bottom, and then run the class A vertical to the cap. You'll have a 90 degree bend (or pair of 45s) inside with the standard single wall or double wall stove pipe and then the tee outside with 22 feet of vertical to provide draft.
I burn wood for 100% of my home heating. It is work to get the wood, and to burn it, but the heat is cheap and very pleasant.
It's a good forum question, but maybe better suited for http://www.hearth.com/talk/
The problem I have with questions like this on a forum is that people have already made up their mind about what they are going to do. Often times, they just want to have others verify that they will be OK.
Stee6043
Well-known member
Just for clarication I do believe the term "Class A" has become obsolete. The standard for insualted chimney pipe is UL 103 HT. That's what you'll see on approved smoke pipe. Selkirk, Duravent, etc are compliant with this standard and will be marked as such. You will not see the term "Class A" being used on these types of materials anymore. They are all stickered with the proper UL designation...