Hello.
Bought on old Binks 33-1179 Lo-Boy compressor for cheap money and need some advice from folks familiar with Quincy QR series compressors. It may have been modified over the years by previous owners. It was probably built in early seventies.
The Binks setup has a 240V 3HP motor and a Quincy model 214 ROC 2 head.
It is a continuous run configuration (pneumatic pilot valve rather than electric pressure switch). the roughly 15 Gallon tank has no check valve (uses the head to unload and stop tank back pressure).
The good news: it runs and builds pressure very quickly (has a motor sheave on it that makes it spin a bit above 1100 rpm). Based on what I could find with 2.5x2.5 bore/stroke at 1200rpm, it supposedly should push near 16cfm.
I did find the Quincy parts list and it shows reasonable mechanical detail but no explanation of oil vane pump or pilot valve operation as function of oil pressure.
The bad news, and where I need your help:
1. The oil pressure is about 5 PSI, that is the factory recommended minimum!
I did try adjusting the oil pressure screw all the way clockwise, but very little change - maybe half a PSI. Not sure if ball spring is weak or maybe oil pump itself is weak. I looked at the Quincy vane pump drawing and it is not intuitive.
Q: What can cause the low oil pressure, and how to remedy that.
Would prefer to fix root cause, but if not possible.
Q: Would heavier oil grade help? I used 30W ND to test, but can go to HDO 5W-40 if that helps build more pressure- as long as the flow is there.
2. There is some air leaking from top side of both unloader intake valve diaphragms.
I tightened the four screws on both unloaders, that reduced the leakage but did not stop it on either. Will open unloader assemblies and look at them in more detail later.
Q: Can the diaphragms be fabricated from good inner tube rubber?
Q: What are the symptoms when diaphragm is torn? (the head currently does unload ok once high side pressure is reached and starts no problem when low side pressure is reached)
3. There is air leaking from the "VD Pilot" body assembly, the big nut like end near the receiver 1/4 inch tube compression fitting (CAP air Inlet). Quincy pilot valve part number 5874x3. Maybe work gasket?
Q: What does VD stand for? No jokes please, I've already thought of that.
Q: Is this valve rebuildable, anybody have experience fabricating the gaskets and felt air filter?
Q: How does oil pressure impact pilot valve.
4. The intake air filter is rotten. The dimension appear to be ~3.5in OD, ~1.5in ID and ~3in deep. Looks lie a Solberg or IR filer, but ~3/4 in smaller OD and 1-1/2in smaller ID (has noticeably thicker filter/element wall). Says made in USA but no part number.
Q: is this original? Anyone have part number?
Q: If not original and unrecognizable, what is a good ~4in OD filter element & housing with 1/2-3/4mnpt & ~15-20CFM flow that is reasonably affordable. Solberg would cost about what I paid for the whole compressor
Thanks, hope it's not too long winded.
Bought on old Binks 33-1179 Lo-Boy compressor for cheap money and need some advice from folks familiar with Quincy QR series compressors. It may have been modified over the years by previous owners. It was probably built in early seventies.
The Binks setup has a 240V 3HP motor and a Quincy model 214 ROC 2 head.
It is a continuous run configuration (pneumatic pilot valve rather than electric pressure switch). the roughly 15 Gallon tank has no check valve (uses the head to unload and stop tank back pressure).
The good news: it runs and builds pressure very quickly (has a motor sheave on it that makes it spin a bit above 1100 rpm). Based on what I could find with 2.5x2.5 bore/stroke at 1200rpm, it supposedly should push near 16cfm.
I did find the Quincy parts list and it shows reasonable mechanical detail but no explanation of oil vane pump or pilot valve operation as function of oil pressure.
The bad news, and where I need your help:
1. The oil pressure is about 5 PSI, that is the factory recommended minimum!
I did try adjusting the oil pressure screw all the way clockwise, but very little change - maybe half a PSI. Not sure if ball spring is weak or maybe oil pump itself is weak. I looked at the Quincy vane pump drawing and it is not intuitive.
Q: What can cause the low oil pressure, and how to remedy that.
Would prefer to fix root cause, but if not possible.
Q: Would heavier oil grade help? I used 30W ND to test, but can go to HDO 5W-40 if that helps build more pressure- as long as the flow is there.
2. There is some air leaking from top side of both unloader intake valve diaphragms.
I tightened the four screws on both unloaders, that reduced the leakage but did not stop it on either. Will open unloader assemblies and look at them in more detail later.
Q: Can the diaphragms be fabricated from good inner tube rubber?
Q: What are the symptoms when diaphragm is torn? (the head currently does unload ok once high side pressure is reached and starts no problem when low side pressure is reached)
3. There is air leaking from the "VD Pilot" body assembly, the big nut like end near the receiver 1/4 inch tube compression fitting (CAP air Inlet). Quincy pilot valve part number 5874x3. Maybe work gasket?
Q: What does VD stand for? No jokes please, I've already thought of that.
Q: Is this valve rebuildable, anybody have experience fabricating the gaskets and felt air filter?
Q: How does oil pressure impact pilot valve.
4. The intake air filter is rotten. The dimension appear to be ~3.5in OD, ~1.5in ID and ~3in deep. Looks lie a Solberg or IR filer, but ~3/4 in smaller OD and 1-1/2in smaller ID (has noticeably thicker filter/element wall). Says made in USA but no part number.
Q: is this original? Anyone have part number?
Q: If not original and unrecognizable, what is a good ~4in OD filter element & housing with 1/2-3/4mnpt & ~15-20CFM flow that is reasonably affordable. Solberg would cost about what I paid for the whole compressor
Thanks, hope it's not too long winded.


