Need help with Calif Building Code

[JoeFin]

I'm in the process of adding on a 20' x 15' addition to my garage. I'm in the middle of my rafter framing and I'm having a little trouble interpreting the code on "Notching Rafters"

I'm trying to frame in the supports for the Gable End Roofing and I want to come out at least 12" to 18". From every thing I've been told you have to provide a support every 4' and go in twice as much as I cantilever out. So for 12" eves my support would extend in 24" ....

I've been using this page as a reference https://bulk.resource.org/codes.gov/bsc.ca.gov/gov.ca.bsc.2010.02.5.pdf

Page 450 on your adobe reader is the beginning of section 801 Raft and Ceiling Framing. Page 456, of Section 802 Rafter Framing, has this

R802.7.1 Sawn lumber. Not ches in solid lumber joists, rafters,
blocking and beams shall not exceed one-sixth of the depth of the
member, shall not be longer than one-third of the depth of the
member and shall not be located in the middle one-third of the
span. Notches at the ends of the member shall not exceed onefourth
the depth of the member. The tension side of members
4 inches (102 mm) or greater in nominal thickness shall not be
notches except at the ends of the members. The diameter of the
holes bored or cut into members shall not exceed one-third the
depth of the member. Holes shall not be closer than 2 inches (51
mm) to the top or bottom of the member, or to any other hole located
in the member. Where the member is also notched, the hole
shall not be closer than 2 inches (51 mm) to the notch

Anyone with experience and first hand knowledge would be appreciated here

 

[bczygan]

No notching involved. Simply build a ladder:
See how the members **** into the side of the first rafter, making a :ladder"?

 

[Zeke]

Another example:

Pretty much how it's done.

However, if you have 2 x 8 or better rafters, you can lay the look outs flat like this:

 

[JoeFin]

Well in that case I guess I already screwed the pooch on this one

this is the second time I've tried to build some extra space for all my tools. We live in an unincorporated area of the county and I first built a 14' x 20' which was "Red Tagged" as a result of no permit. When I had a county inspector come out to try and bring it into compliance he specifically stated my Gable Wall Rafter had to be supported by the Gable Wall

So here is what I have thus far

Being that is a 2"x8" supported every 16" can I notch that and extend out 12"

 

[Zeke]

I would say yes because the gable rafter doesn't have any span. With cripple studs under it you could have used only a double plate as the other drawings show. Your 2 x 8 gable rafter is over sized so you can notch it. But think about laying your lumber flat. You could use something different if you're looking for architectural details, like a 3 x 6 on the flat.

Your flat stud spacing looks a little funky, but it will work. I'm thinking you're going to run horizontal siding above the T1-11. I think that will look good.

I guess you're not planning on any gable vents. I like the look of them but there's a lot of ways to skin that kat.

 

[JoeFin]

Another example:

However, if you have 2 x 8 or better rafters, you can lay the look outs flat like this:

Zeke -

How wide is your project. The rafter span is bearing point to bearing point.

Only bearing wall to ridge board when there is a perlin sitting on a bearing wall underneath it

Anyway I am quite sure everything in mine is over spec as I was originally "Red Tagged" for not having a permit. Then because I decided to attach it to the existing structure the guy who granted me the permit was reprimanded by the head of the building Department almost on the spot.

 

[bczygan]

Here's what I would do.

Remove that last rafter.

Make a ladder using that for the rafter at the outside edge of your overhang and a 2x4 or an additional matching rafter for the other side.for the other side of the ladder.

Before lifting the ladder into place and securing it to the next rafter inboard, fix the gable end as follows.

Remove the gable end framing and move the boards toward the corner of the wall, eliminating the shortest one and recutting the others so that a 2x4 top plate will work. These pieces should be turned 90 degrees to support the top plate.

You now match the drawings above, and have your overhang, for the cost of 2 new rafters and some 2x4's for the ladder and gable end rework.

Or do what zeke said...it's cheaper and easier.