Need help with garage gable end interior framing

[bikesandcars]

I have a couple questions. My pole barn is up and I'm starting to finish the interior.

The posts are glulam 4" x 5.25".

Since lumber is 1.5" thick do folks rip a board to 1.25"? To build out the inside for finishing?

What to do on inside corners?

On the gable ends my trusses are 2x6 bottoms. Inside the posts should I use a 2 x 8 notched at the ends and a 2x4 nailed to that to support the ceiling and wall?



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[Michigan Mike]

We are gonna need more pictures. Not enough detail about your interior framing. It sounds like you are trying to flush up the framing with the posts? If that is the case it is probalbly easier to add a .25 piece to the post than rip .25 from all the two by lumber,

 

[hefnerconstructionlc]

I agree, need more info on what you would like to accomplish. Details, specs, pics, on what and where.

 

[Titanium Frost]

Why not just build your 2x4 wall flush with the inside face of the post? Forget about making the wall framing the same thickness as the posts. Structurally it's not needed, or they would have built it when the raised the posts and roof. At the ceiling, add a 2x4 to create a nailing edge (blocking) for the ceiling. The ceiling 2x4 can run in front of the post to create the corner of the ceiling and wall. Looking at the picture, and if I am correct in assuming you are trying to hide the posts in the wall, your framing won't even touch the end gables. You can add blocking between the end gable and the 2x4 wall to add some stiffness to the top of the wall. If you want the posts exposed, then flush the 2x4 wall up to the outside face of the posts instead.

 

[Firebrick43]

You have created a lot of trouble for little gain. Every one normally applies purlins to the interior just like the exterior and therefore smooth walls and corners, easy insulation and much easier ceiling install. I have had the displeasure of finishing out a pole barn like you are and it's a nightmare all for a few inches of space. Did you place fiberglass batts directly against the steel exterior? Is so you will likely have moisture problems and poor performance.

at this point I would highly suggest steel barn lining for the ceiling. The f channel can be attached to the OSB if it's high enough and supports the edge of the channel. How far apart on center are the trusses?

 

[bikesandcars]

I'm doing 2x4 purlins up the inside. So I need a purlin and also a ceiling nailer. I'm going to run a 2x10 purlin and put a 2x6 ceiling nailer inside of that

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[bikesandcars]

 

[bikesandcars]

You can see the post is not square, so I will rip a 2x4 down to 1.25" thick and nail that up the inside to make the post square

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[Firebrick43]

I'm doing 2x4 purlins up the inside. So I need a purlin and also a ceiling nailer. I'm going to run a 2x10 purlin and put a 2x6 ceiling nailer inside of that

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I am baffled by this? If you are doing purlins to the inside why is there OSB put up between the post?

 

[bikesandcars]

I am baffled by this? If you are doing purlins to the inside why is there OSB put up between the post?

Great question! Sorry for confusion

OSB is there as overkill backer for spray foam. I'm nailing OSB up inside purlins and having a pro spray on that instead of right on metal panels or Tyvek. It's extra work now but my rationale is it will be a quieter and more solid when done.

Sorry for confusion...

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[Firebrick43]

Aaha, ok. So with purlins to the interior, for the corner post just run one walls purlins so it above or below the other walls purlin on the post. Solid attachment and no funky an hard to attach pieces. For stiffness of the OSB screw on pieces an inch shorter than the distance vertically between purlins. The inch gives you play room so cuts and fitting doesn't have to be exact. Use left over scraps of 2x4 or strips of OSB. Put your sheet up and Mark purlin locations, screw blocking in and attach sheet. The blocking doesn't have to be continuous as even 1/2" gaps are fine once it's up and attached to the purlins. If using metal lining use j channel only.

For the gable ends just put up a 2x6 or 2x8 top purlin (top edge an inch or so above the level of the ceiling) so you can use some f channel to capture the ceilings edge. No blocking needed there.

 

[bikesandcars]

Thanks for the f channel tip, I am doing a metal ceiling with plywood or OSB walls.

Thanks for advice on inside purlins, I'll just stagger them, I can't see how another way is worth the hassle

I was thinking I needed blocking on the gable end for some J channel, but F channel seems a lot easier on the gable ends.

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