need help with old key slot

[Tedley]

I think it's called a parallel keyed joint. It's the shaft of an old 3/4 hp Dayton motor that came with my Hamilton Varimatic sensitive Drill. Think pulley... But in my case it's a cone/cup drive(pretty interesting way this Drill changes speeds) specifically the CUP portion is connected to the shaft with a keyed slot.

I was trying to protect the rubber cone part of the drive cup with the tape as I slowly began to pick at the rust. There are two (what I thought were set screws) holes 180 degrees apart on the CUP flange. There was what I can only describe as a BB in the center of one hole which when depressed felt as if it was spring loaded... It did not return to the top of the hole and I discovered I can feel the other one in it's hole as well. I'm pretty sure these are the way to the key for removing this cup from the shaft.
Can anyone tell me what I need to know? How do I get this thing off?
The rubber cone drive still works... but I want to address all this and paint the motor so... I hope to get this little bit of education just for starters.

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[Tedley]

I was trying to protect the rubber cone part of the drive cup with the tape

The tape, not added yet in the picture covers the black rubber visible at end of the cup.



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[OccupantRJ]

Normally the type of spring loaded ball device you described is a hole for oiling the internals of the device, especially if it is surrounded by a circular piece. This would be a small unit pressed into position during assembly. These are used on some machine tools for oiling internal areas, and to keep debris out.

 

[OccupantRJ]

I see something in that gap. Are there threads on what I think I see? If so, and there are at least two of them equally spaced, it may be held on with a taper lock hub, likely accessed from behind the rubber piece. Sometimes removing a component just to paint is not wise. Project creep, additional $$, and mental anguish can often occur.

 

[Tedley]

Ha-ha mental anguish is THE killer.
This machine does have those bb like oil-ports and when I saw that (once I realized it wasn't a hex key), I thought why? I don't think anything in this part should move?
There is a channel for a key slot protruding from beneath on the motor side.
The other side,, inside the cup is rusted but from what I can see doesn't seem to be the answer... I did try to attach a puller but it probably didn't fit and the mental anguish kicked in.
I'll probably have another go at it tonight.
Thanks for looking.

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[OccupantRJ]

Take more pics from different angles and I will try to be of more help if I can.

 

[Tedley]

Take more pics from different angles and I will try to be of more help if I can.

In 1st pic(looking down into rubber rimmed cup) if you see what I believe I see is a round center whether this is the end of the shaft I'm unsure but I think it's a feature of the cups original construction, and I think the same of the four smaller pin/cutoff rivet looking points surrounding it.
I can't see how anything in here could help me remove the whole apparatus (which I will be using) from the shaft.


Second pic... In this one you can see one of the two side holes, the single slotted shaft as it connects the cup to the motor and two or three of the four screws which go up into the top portion of the cup, I presume these hold the rubber drive cushion part on the cup.
Thank you once again for looking.
I'm fiddling with this to do it right. I need to preserve the cup, but by the time I'm done I'll have made parts, replaced or fixed the front spindle drive pulley(they never want to seat correctly for me), straighten the jack screw?, have a neck yoke welded? ... So this part is a baby step.
Nonetheless, thanks.

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[OccupantRJ]

My guess at this point is that the center piece of this device is fastened to the shaft, and flanges outward near the motor. Since the oil holes are where they are, I think the outer portion is internally spring loaded, pushing the rubber cone outward from the motor. This would make sense in the respect that it is a driver, and on contact with the driven part, the spring loading would insure a consistent contact for driving that part.

I believe there is a spring on each of the pins inside the unit. Can the housing containing the rubber unit be pushed by hand towards the motor to check what I believe? I would spray penetrant into the oil ports and let soak to see if anything is able to be freed up. Placing a wood block to protect the rubber and lightly bumping the unit towards the motor may give more clues. If you wish to continue disassembly, my opinion is that you will have to remove that rubber driver. The question arises as to whether that part is available and is another story altogether. Try wire brushing the hub to see if there are any markings on it

 

[Larryjones]

I'm thinking that the slot around the smaller diameter part, next to motor is where it has springs to push the rubber end against the driven part. It probably is rusty or gummed up and won't spread now, or it could be centrificaly operated. I would try some penetrating oil in the slot and wait a few days and maybe even using a screwdriver or a proper pry bar and see it they separate.

 

[Tedley]

I'm gonna put the closest thing to closure I can to this, especially because I appreciate your help Larry and occupantrj.
I never got the cone/cup off.
I never was able to detect any springing or shock-absorber like action to the cup after several blows with rubber and dead-blow mallets.
I did put oil in those holes which really seem to be oil ports, but I'm not sure about why they are there unless there is supposed to be some shock-absorber action but because the bb thingies never returned to the surface they threw oil when I fired it up.
About that, it runs well. The cup works like it is supposed to, and allows change of speed, at least doubling speed as the cone is shifted from in to almost out of the cup. That's the cool thing about this drill.
I cleaned it up, bought a belt(NAPA), lubricated, tweaked or coaxed free the frozen parts, painted some parts left others alone.
I will be making a new quill-spindle link and perhaps getting part of a neck on the body welded(maybe)... later on but once I cleaned up the light, hooked up and jammed the wires in the old confused switch-box, I needed to drill some holes and move it off of my table saw. Put it on the bench and back away a bit.
Thank you.

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[Tedley]

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[Tedley]

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[OccupantRJ]

Never argue with success, even partial. Thank you for the feedback. A lot of people just fade away........

 

[kleinkaliber]

I've been watching this thread to see how that comes apart. Sometimes there is a simple trick to it. Other times the best thing to do is just stop before you tear up something. Glad to see you stopped before that happened.