Need help with our new pantry

[aka Larry]

Back at it last night after work.

I used a oscillating multi-tool and some 220 grit sand paper to make the dowel plugs over the pocket holes flush. Not perfect, but pretty close and once painted they will disappear:

Finished up the edges of the doors with the router:

A little more sanding and I'll be ready to spray the primer. Stay tuned.

 

[aka Larry]

OK guys, I'm about ready to spray the primer, but I wanted some more advice.

Should I remove the drawer slides or just tape them all up? They are all aligned correctly at present, and I'd really hate to screw that up, but I will remove them if need be.

What would you do?

 

[rslaback]

Remove them. If you are worried about getting the alignment perfect when you put them back in, before you remove them just make some alignment fixtures out of some scraps that fit your slides and cabinet perfectly.

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

 

[aka Larry]

Update!

It's prime time! Sprayed almost 3/4 of a gallon of primer this weekend. Painting, even spraying is almost as much work as building the cabinet and I'm only half done. I worked on it most of the three day weekend. Here are a few pics of the progress:







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[aka Larry]

12-14-15 Update.

This weekend was installation time. I started by destroying the exiting door frame with a hammer and prybar. The plan was to make as few cuts and as little damage as possible to the crown molding. I started by scoring the seams with an X-acto knife and using the oscillating tool I cut the molding in place and was able to pry it off carefully without damage to the ceiling. I decided to test fit the base, and as a sign of things to come, it fit too well requiring persuasion with a hammer to get it into place. Knowing I needed help with the actual cabinet structure, I decided to stop here on Saturday.

I texted my co-worker and asked him to come over on Sunday to help me wrangle the beast into place. We brought it in the house and it was soon clear this would be quite the task. After the first test fit it was clear it wasn’t going in as-is. I cut back more of the crown an base moldings for clearance hoping to tilt it into place, but no dice. My measurements were correct, but I didn’t allow for variances in the drywall and clearances needed for such. Translation, a 46-1/2” peg wouldn’t fit into a 46-5/8” hole even though it should.

The options were to plane down the entire side of the cabinet (a LOT of work) or remove the adjacent drywall. I decided this thing WAS going into this hole TODAY, no matter what, so I marked and cut out the drywall in less than 5-minutes with the oscillating tool. That thing rocks for this kind of work! Looks like I need to buy my own. Once we ripped the drywall down, that gained us another ½” of clearance, and it was easy to just sit the cabinet onto the base.

After my co-worker left, I worked on clearing up the HUGE mess from cutting the drywall. I was finally able to screw the carcass into place about 7:00 last night. I went ahead and wired up the electrical outlet and called it a day. Pics:

The next step will be to paint the face frame (it’s just in primer now) before hanging the doors and reinstalling the drawers. After that’s done I need to find someone to fix the drywall and maybe the molding if I decide not to mess with it.

 

[slickgt1]

oddly enough, it looks like it should have fit. Probably with persuasion from a sledge, and damage to sheetrock, not removal of entire sheet.

From hitting similar snags before, I have a few suggetions.

1. Did you lift the box over base molding, before pushing this in the hole?
2. It also looks like it needed to go top in first. Then lifted to ceiling, and bottom driven in.
3. A 2x4, on edge against the cabinet frame edge is a great place to use a hammer and drive the cabinet in.

 

[aka Larry]

oddly enough, it looks like it should have fit. Probably with persuasion from a sledge, and damage to sheetrock, not removal of entire sheet.

From hitting similar snags before, I have a few suggetions.

1. Did you lift the box over base molding, before pushing this in the hole?
2. It also looks like it needed to go top in first. Then lifted to ceiling, and bottom driven in.
3. A 2x4, on edge against the cabinet frame edge is a great place to use a hammer and drive the cabinet in.

1. Yes

2. Exactly how we tried, but no dice.

3. Man handling this beast was a task and after all that work I decided I'd rather repair the drywall than the cabinet face frame.

Hindsight is a motherf*cker. had I just made the whole thing 1/4" more narrow, it's be done already.

 

[Crusarius]

nm missed the other 2 pages

 

[Todd.Brock]

Man, nice job on that cabinet! Give me inspiration to get something similar built forms mud room cabinet/ locker/ bench set up my wife wants. Can you elaborate on the software for your drawings?

Also, what type of sprayer did you use! I am trying to paint previously stained solid wood doors and have failed with graco handheld paint sprayers, They make a mess, use a **** ton of paint and just out too much material at once. Especially for an inside corner of a cabinet like yours. It could be I just don't know how to spray, but just curious on your set up.

Sorry for the hi jack. Looks awesome!

 

[aka Larry]

Man, nice job on that cabinet! Give me inspiration to get something similar built forms mud room cabinet/ locker/ bench set up my wife wants. Can you elaborate on the software for your drawings?

Thanks! On the drawings I used AutoCAD, which I use daily at my job.

Also, what type of sprayer did you use!

I used this one from HF. It's not really meant for latex paint, but it worked out great. Using latex, you can't really use "LP" aspect of the HVLP, unless you want to thin the paint a LOT. I thinned it about 6:1 (paint to water) and used about 40 PSI. Obviously at that pressure I had more over spray, but with the paint being thicker I didn't have to use as many coats. I think I used about 3 coats of primer and 2 coats of paint.

 

[Todd.Brock]

Auto cad... Figures!! I am trying to find a program for the lay person for a deck and porch addition. County is a stickler for drawings.

I will have to try the HF gun. I was going to get one to test my painting skills on a rusty quarter panel. The sprayers I tried sucked up and waisted so much material on clean up. At 45 a bucks a gallon for trim paint!! Thanks again. I will give it a shot

 

[aka Larry]

Auto cad... Figures!! I am trying to find a program for the lay person for a deck and porch addition. County is a stickler for drawings.

Send me your sketches and I can convert them for you.

 

[Todd.Brock]

a public thank you ! I will send you a PM

 

[aka Larry]

12-17-15 Update.

With the paint work on the face frame finished, I re-installed the drawers last night. The boss wanted the shelves installed to see how the spacing would workout. The next thing you know I had them all installed and she had them full of stuff. I still need to hang the doors, but I'll need some help with those since they are long, awkward, and heavy.

 

[slickgt1]

Looks great.

 

[aka Larry]

Looks great.

Thanks man, I appreciate the kind words. I also appreciate all the help I got from you and others here with tips and suggestions as I went through the process.

GJ members rock!

 

[gahrajmahal]

Great job! Folks will think it was always that way. Now for those big glass doors.

 

[4EyedTurd]

That looks great!!

 

[aka Larry]

Well I finally got everything buttoned up yesterday on this project.

Before:

After:

Thanks so much for all the help from you guys!

 

[Hawk]

Very well done. It fits right in.

 

[jimgood]

Larry, would it be easier to make the 1 x 6 TOP RAIL full width and make the 1 x 3 STILES shorter? That way you'd be able to attach the rail at the ends straight into the edge of the ply.

 

[aka Larry]

Larry, would it be easier to make the 1 x 6 TOP RAIL full width and make the 1 x 3 STILES shorter? That way you'd be able to attach the rail at the ends straight into the edge of the ply.

I suppose you could do it that way, but the face frame isn't part of the 'structure' so what attaches where doesn't matter a whole lot, at least IMO. There are over 150 pocket screws in this thing, and it's pretty strong.

 

[jimgood]

Oh. Didn't know you were using pocket screws. That'll work.

 

[soj]

Larry, ya done good son! I am seeing door and drawer edges all lined up, gaps even and all trimmed out from crown molding to baseboard quarter round. Looks great.
jp