Need help with shed bracing.

[JOE.G]

Hi, I am going to try and explain this the best I can, I have bracing questions on a shed I am building.

I have an out door pen, it is 20 ft long by 12 ft wide and 8 ft high.
It is built with 6x6 in corners and in the center of the 20 ft runs. I then have a 2x8 all around the bottom top and the middle, this had Weld wire in it for birds.

I now want to enclose it, so I put 4x4 on the bottom and I attached 2 and 9/16th inch thick by 6inch rough cut barn board flooring and I ran them the 12 foot width across.

I I am raising the one 2o ft long end up another two ft with a 2 ft fall I built to get the pitch for the metal roof. I cut in and attached rafters 16 on center for this and I put down 12 x 1 rough cut lumber down as perlins going all the way across every two ft.
The one 12 ft end Id like to open up and make 2 4 ft wide doors.
Outside of the building will be rough cut board and batton.

Any ideas on how I should brace this building, I normally would brace it diagonal on the ends but Id like to open the end up. Its a storage shed but obviously I want it safe thanks.

 

[matt_i]

Having trouble envisioning this but if you're building a tunnel and want to keep from racking, you could either use weldment on the open end (angle iron, square tube, etc) or gussets in the upper corners.

If your posts are buried in concrete or earth those should also be helpful as being able to resist side loading (moments).

 

[JamesW84]

A picture is worth 1000 words. We could give better and more specific advice if you had some pictures.

12 ft on the edge minus the two 4 ft doors leaves 4 ft of wall on the shorter end. Is there a reason you can't put the doors on the longer wall?

Frame in your doors and use 3/4" plywood inside and out around the doors. Put your siding over the plywood. Use good nails (paslode nails are awesome), and don't skimp on them either. A nail every 6 inches minimum.

Run diagonals from the long wall to each short wall at the top on the plane of the ceiling with between 45 and 60 degrees of angle (run it from the center of your 12' wall (6 ft) to 6 ft down on your 20 ft wall on each side.

 

[JOE.G]

Sorry about this pictures I know that would help a lot. I can try and get some but itll be a few days.

I cant put the doors on the long wall because Of where I built this thing, I can only access the short end to drive into, Its really a storage shed for all our ATV's we are up to six of them and I want them out of my Shop.

The Diagonals on my on top plane of my wall is what I was thinking, I just wasn't sure saying it will.hat I think it should but you are saying it also so Ill do that.

Building is not in concrete as I never planned to do this when i build the run. It is going to be attached to a 10X12 Shed on the one end which I over built and that thing is not moving, 2x6 framed 16 oc walls 5/8th plywood on the outside with board and batton over it, 1/2 plywood on the inside, 2x8 floors with plywood roof same as walls.

 

[JamesW84]

don't forget the plywood. It won't cost a lot for how much you need and it will help a lot.

 

[bczygan]

Triangulation is always the solution.

If you can't get it with a diagonal brace across the entire side because you want to open it up, then you must get it in the joint at each upper corner or at the joints with the floor.

Bill

 

[Bretny]

We need pictures. Your useing 4x4 for a ledger thsts 12ft long?

 

[JOE.G]

No the Ledge is 2X8. I think I got it figured out, I braced it like James said and it seems solid. I will be adding some corner bracing also.