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Need help with Tek cable into building

REPO

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Sep 14, 2012
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Fort St.John, BC Canada
Hey guys, I just trenched in my tech cable from my power shed to my shop. It's 4 wire #2, so it's pretty large but not huge I guess. I have it coming out of the ground directly under where the breaker panel will be mounted.
A couple ideas I have are;
Bring the cable up the side of the wall, possibly inside plastic conduit, and use a 90 degree elbow into the building. But I'm not sure what or how to proceed past this.
Second idea I have is drilling a hole in the bottom base plate, as the walls (2x8's) currently overhang the cement pad by 2" as I plan on putting 2" styrofoam under the walls, against the cement for the insulation factor.
Is it OK, or safe to drill a 2" hole in the bottom plate? (Supporting side wall)
I am doing this all myself. Where I live I don't need permits or inspections, but that doesn't mean I don't want to do it correctly.

I'm looking for options, recommendations, etc.
If anyone can share pictures of their installs, that would be helpful.

Also curious on mounting the panel. I was thinking of putting of a piece of of 3/4" plywood and surface mounting the panel. But being the walls are so deep, can I flush mount the panel? Is that even allowable?
 
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The Cobbler

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I used tek cable too . it comes thru a 2" conduit that was set prior to the pad pour . the bottom plate was cut at the conduit and anchored both sides of the cut. My panel is recessed (flush) in the wall cavity. My electrician was worried about frost heave on the building and thus pulling the cable, he wanted me to coil at the bottom of the trench . I didn't do that mainly because I didnt have enough cable. It passed inspection no problems
 
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REPO

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Location
Fort St.John, BC Canada
I wish I had pre-installed the PVC conduit at pad pour time. I had not really thought about it back then. That's the problem with doing everything yourself. Experience sure goes along way, as to what to do, etc.


If I bring the conduit up through the bottom plate, I think I can go up past the box, then do a loop and can back down into the top of it?
 

The Cobbler

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I put my box with the main disconnect at the bottom and ran the cable straight into the panel, but you could do it like you suggested.
btw, the conduit is not all the way to the panel, only thru the concrete . So the tek cable is exposed again once it enters the building
As far as recessing the panel, I put 2" styrofoam behind a pc of 1/2" plywood and then mounted the panel to that . (2x6 walls)
 
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REPO

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Sep 14, 2012
Messages
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Location
Fort St.John, BC Canada
I test hung my box tonight in the flush position. I still have a full 4" behind it that I can use spray foam to fill. This may be the easiest route for me, as I can bring the service cable up the side wall of my shop and straight into the back of the box.

Another question when flush mounting the panel box, does that eliminate the use of the side punch outs? Or can you still go out the side and drill holes in the stud?

EDIT: not sure why my pictures turned 90 degrees.....
 

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tfi racing

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You can use 2" PVC on the outside wall,then LB into the back of the panel,or punch a hole through the concrete and bottom plate and run your ACWU into the panel mounted upside down with the main breaker at the bottom as The Cobbler did. You will be SOL using the side knock outs,just run everything through the top of your now inverted panel.
 
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REPO

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Sep 14, 2012
Messages
107
Location
Fort St.John, BC Canada
You can use 2" PVC on the outside wall,then LB into the back of the panel,or punch a hole through the concrete and bottom plate and run your ACWU into the panel mounted upside down with the main breaker at the bottom as The Cobbler did. You will be SOL using the side knock outs,just run everything through the top of your now inverted panel.


If using PVC on the outside wall, how do I transition from the Tek cable to the PVC? Or do I just strip off the outer casing at the LB and continue from there?
 

tfi racing

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The PVC is only for the required mechanical protection,just slide the cable through as is.You could also build a metal or wood cover for it, for some reason they feel that the jacket and aluminum armour must be protected from weed wackers,machetes,hatchets,boomerangs and like items that are commonly hurled through our yards.
 
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REPO

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Joined
Sep 14, 2012
Messages
107
Location
Fort St.John, BC Canada
The PVC is only for the required mechanical protection,just slide the cable through as is.You could also build a metal or wood cover for it, for some reason they feel that the jacket and aluminum armour must be protected from weed wackers,machetes,hatchets,boomerangs and like items that are commonly hurled through our yards.


Understood. Does the actual Tek cable jacket need to be terminated at the panel? Or can I just strip the jacket off at the LB and just carry the conductors the remainder of the way? I can easily take the PVC right to the panel.
 
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