Need help!!!

[Dustin Pahl]

Okay I don't know if this is the right forum to be asking on but I need help!! I am taking the front differential out on my 2002 polaris sportsman 700 and so far I've taken the wheels and brake calipers off. I took the coder pins and castle nuts off the ball bearing stud and now I need to take the lower a arm off but it will not slide off the ball bearing stud for the life of me! I have no clue why this won't budge!! I need help do I use like a pickle fork or something?? Which I don't have. I just need help with this!!

 

[Pstychologist]

I'm no expert on your application, but did you put a bar between the lower arm and the bearing housing and pry while giving a good tap on the end of the castle nut (screw down til the threads are flush with top of nut.)? These taper lock into place and need a bigger hammer.

 

[jeremy v]

If you have a propane hand torch try heating up the outer ring shaped area only, being careful to keep the flame moving so you don't burn the rubber boot (if there is one). Keep the flame off of the threaded shaft and the nut. That will expand the outer ring slightly so you can break the tapered connection more easily. Then try knocking them apart by hitting the end of the threaded shaft with the nut on it with a soft headed hammer if you have one (like Pstychologist recommended). Just doing that once is often enough. If it is still stuck try a few cycles of heating and cooling using the propane torch followed by a wrap with a wet rag soaked in ice water to cool it back down quickly and shock the parts into breaking their frictional hold. When doing this don't heat it up too much, it usually only needs to get to 3-400 hundred degrees to work.

You can also try squirting some PB Blaster, liquid wrench, etc. right at the base of the threaded rod so it can soak in between the two pieces and help them separate more easily.

 

[ss454]

your best bet is to go and sign up at the Polaris atv forum, you know, a forum that actually deals with what you are working on. knowledgeable people over there that can help you.

 

[n8n]

Get two big f**king hammers, hold one behind the knuckle where the stud goes through, hit the other side 180 degrees opposite as hard as you can. Leave the nut on loose so stuff doesn't fly around when it pops.

If that doesn't work go to your FLAPS and buy a pickle fork, or if you're not replacing the ball joint, an actual ball joint separator (looks like a c clamp but shaped to go around the BJ so you dont' damage it.) Since it's an ATV not a car the tie rod size one might be required.

 

[colin39]

Get two big f**king hammers, hold one behind the knuckle where the stud goes through, hit the other side 180 degrees opposite as hard as you can. Leave the nut on loose so stuff doesn't fly around when it pops.

If that doesn't work go to your FLAPS and buy a pickle fork, or if you're not replacing the ball joint, an actual ball joint separator (looks like a c clamp but shaped to go around the BJ so you dont' damage it.) Since it's an ATV not a car the tie rod size one might be required.

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[G_P]

Get two big f**king hammers, hold one behind the knuckle where the stud goes through, hit the other side 180 degrees opposite as hard as you can. Leave the nut on loose so stuff doesn't fly around when it pops.

If that doesn't work go to your FLAPS and buy a pickle fork, or if you're not replacing the ball joint, an actual ball joint separator (looks like a c clamp but shaped to go around the BJ so you dont' damage it.) Since it's an ATV not a car the tie rod size one might be required.

THIS. I've used the 2 hammers trick many times. Pickle fork will work, but will likely destroy the boot and force you to replace the ball joint.

 

[Dustin Pahl]

Okay I need some more clarification where exactly I need to rap on this thing with the 2 hammers. I don't want to ruin the boot on the ball joint that's why I stopped heating and stopped prying by it.

 

[AA/FC]

See where the red arrow is pointing? Hit that as hard as you can, with the biggest hammer you have.