Need ideas on how to attach garage threshold

[hockey88fan]

I had this threshold fabricated for the 2nd floor rear garage door, I'm looking for suggestions on how to attach it. The structure that is under it is all wood, that is why I had this threshold made, to keep water out, and make it more durable for when I pull my riding mower into the garage.

I was thinking about screwing it down but am concerned about water getting in through the screws. Or maybe just not fasten at all and rely on the 2x8 trimmers, which are going to come down over the edges, to hold it in place. There is about 3" that will be inside the garage, maybe I could screw it down there as it would be out of the weather.
The osb you see in the picture is a temporary door to keep the weather out, there will be a standard roll up door there when complete.

 

[1948]

cant you drill the tabs on the side that go up the side and put screws in there? and then along the front? water shouldnt get in there if the bolts are on the side.

 

[cowboy73]

Yeah, I would fasten it in using the tabs on the side. Put a **** ton of good silicone under it. Put some weight on it for a few days until the silicone has had a chance to cure. That should hold it pretty well.

 

[hockey88fan]

Yeah, I would fasten it in using the tabs on the side. Put a **** ton of good silicone under it. Put some weight on it for a few days until the silicone has had a chance to cure. That should hold it pretty well.

I was thinking of glueing or silicone, but I was going to keep that ice and water dam underlayment underneath it for a second layer of protection. So glueing it down to the underlayment might not hold.

 

[cowboy73]

Could you silicone the ice shield down first? I would definitely use the ice shield.

 

[Bulldog13]

The fire/ice membrane will seal around the screws...

 

[Nowater]

I recently found some stainless steel tapcons available at the big box stores. I suggest them-you're fastening to concrete, right? If not door and window sealant under the screw head should work.

 

[atotalnincompoop]

I recently found some stainless steel tapcons available at the big box stores. I suggest them-you're fastening to concrete, right? If not door and window sealant under the screw head should work.

screw the ends through the verticle leg and apply silicone liberally underneath it, then i would countersink some of these fasteners into the concrete. done.

 

[hockey88fan]

I recently found some stainless steel tapcons available at the big box stores. I suggest them-you're fastening to concrete, right? If not door and window sealant under the screw head should work.

Will the stainless screws react with the aluminum diamond plate? And there is all wood underneath, no concrete.

 

[atotalnincompoop]

Will the stainless screws react with the aluminum diamond plate? And there is all wood underneath, no concrete.

for some reason i thought it was concrete below
anyways, just screw it down then to the wood as well as the verticle leg on the ends. silicone the **** out of the bottom. the sealant on your screws should stop and reaction to the aluminum

 

[Bulldog13]

Dont think they'll react... Hope the woods pressure treated.I have used Marine epoxy before..its waterproof and strong as hell.The bond is actually stronger than the wood itself.

 

[Nowater]

If it is not concrete underneath, then you don't need tapcons. If it is PT under, then stainless steel would be a good choice to prevent corrosion. The new PT process will eat regular fasteners like steel screws or non-galvanized nails. I know, because I used some steel nails as temporary nailers on PT. By the time I pulled them out, they were corroded. McFeeleys sells nails and screws mail order if you can't fine them locally. Seems like you may not need too many of them so that price will not be that big of a factor. Sorry about the concrete assumption!

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

Your threshold reminds me of SillJamb-
Here's the install directions for it:
http://www.jamsill.com/images/downloads/Jamsill_Guard_Installation.pdf

I've always used a 100% silicone caulk- and after 5+yrs no problems.
If I were to use any fasteners- I'd do what a couple of others have mentioned- screw through the vertical tabs into the jamb/cripples of the rough opening. Then let your finish trim overlap the tabs for a finished look.

 

[JimVonBaden]

I would use a combination of silicone caulk on the edges and across the front, with a generous amount of construction adhesive in the middle. Silicone won't hold very well on its own. I might add some screws to the verticle ends, but make damn sure the piece is solid to the wood edge or there will be movement and it will tear the wood around the screws when driving over it.

Jim

 

[little d]

I think you guys are overthinkin this one, the doors weather strip will turn the vast majority of the water away before it gets close to the screws. I do wonder though how the strip across the botom will seal with the dimond plate?

 

[MrMark]

No one uses silicone for this sill pan. You are supposed to use polyurethane. Silicone has no place for window or door installs.

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

Silicone has no place for window or door installs.

I don't think anybody said anything about installing doors or windows with silicone caulk.
However, it was mentioned several times that sealing would be a good idea with silicone caulk.
As mentioned in the first sentence of this brochure:
http://www.caulkyourhome.com/pdfs/Silicone_II_WP_Sell_Sheet.pdf

Polyurethane what?

 

[MrMark]

Look, this is a door threshold/sill pan and it really looks like the guy has had a first class job done up until this point. I don't know if he did it himself, but whoever put that opening together had at least some idea what they were doing. They ran Grace Vicor and some flexible sill flashing material down on the sill. I would hate to see him screw it up with silicone. Silicone is not indicated for this job. To do it really right he should run two beads going about 6 inches up the sides. The best way is to leave a discontinuous bead so that any trapped water can get out. The openings in the bead should be staggered.

Silicone is good for tile and glass but not sealing around openings in a house.

 

[Zeke]

I install windows and I don't even use silicone for that. Polyurethane or butyl. If anyone in your area has Sikaflex, you can't do much better.

 

[buening]

Definitely go with the poly adhesive/caulk. Sikaflex 1a is a decent one, but if you want something sourced locally at a box store they carry many brands including DAP and PL

http://www.dhcsupplies.com/sikaflex-1a.htm

Heh, Zeke beat me to it.

 

[1ownerT]

http://www.na.graceconstruction.com/custom/resistive/downloads/techletters/Vycor enV TL16.pdf

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

Sikaflex
Great stuff!! Arguably the best stuff on the market.

I also spec their wood-flooring products.

 

[slickgt1]

Screw all that. PL Premium, and next time you want to take it off, it will come up with the concrete.