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Need input on a small shop compressor

Cornpanzer

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Im in the market for a reasonably good compressor for my garage. I rarely use air while wrenching, but occasionally need air for bodywork and fabrication. For space reasons, I need an upright that wont protrude more than about 21" from the wall. I have a dedicated 120 circuit (I think 20 amps).

My budget is about $400, but would be happy to spend less. One of my main concerns is noise as it is in a basement garage connected to the house.
I poked around here a little bit and saw that Lowes seemed to have a good deal, but they didnt even stock that unit at my local store.

Welcome any input - thanks!
 
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pipsters

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Just as an FYI, I personally haven't ever tried, but I would not use a 120v compressor for body work. I assume you mean something like a DA sander and paint gun? You won't get very much run time, think 30 secs with a DA. Then wait.

You need a 220v compressor for those air hog tools. Might be better just buying electric versions of them.
 
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Cornpanzer

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Thanks and good point. Actually, nothing that demanding. cut-off wheels, die grinders...dressing welds and things like this.

Anyone with a suggestion?
 

jasonreck71

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Thanks and good point. Actually, nothing that demanding. cut-off wheels, die grinders...dressing welds and things like this.

Anyone with a suggestion?

I have a 60 gal Kobalt from Lowes I love it. Not the loudest compressor I have owned, but I wouldnt call it quiet. However at 60 gal it doesn't run that much
 

theoldwizard1

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I agree with Pipster. Cut off wheels, die grinder, etc take a lot of air. I have an old fashion 2HP (220V) oil lube "potable" with a 20 gallon tank. I get about 3-5 minutes of use with my cut off wheel, starting with 125psi tank pressure and 90 psi outlet, before I have to wait 3-5 minutes for it to get back to peak tank pressure.

1HP is about the best you can do on 120V. Volume (CFM) and peak tank pressure will be lower and you will run out of air sooner.
 

Davefr

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Just as an FYI, I personally haven't ever tried, but I would not use a 120v compressor for body work. I assume you mean something like a DA sander and paint gun? You won't get very much run time, think 30 secs with a DA. Then wait.

You need a 220v compressor for those air hog tools. Might be better just buying electric versions of them.


^^^ Exactly. A DA is a huge consumer of air. I have a Sioux 5" DA and it's air consumption is 15 CFM @ 90 PSI. This is enough to run my IR 5HP/60 gallon compressor at nearly 100% duty cycle while sanding.

Maybe newer models of DA's are easier on air consumption or maybe the OP should go with an electric DA sander.
 
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banditbigdog

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Agree that if using air tools 5hp range and up would be best.
As far as quality, Quincy makes decent compressors.
I believe they are still US made.
 

machine_punk

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I have what I call a '120V MAX' compressor (the maximum you can get out of a 15 AMP outlet at 120 volts), with a 30 gallon tank. It works HARD when I run the die grinder with surface conditioning discs. It will 'keep up,' in that I always have air, but often I can feel the power dropping considerably and the compressor is constantly cycling. After 2 or 3 refills, it spits water through the tool too.

I don't have much of an option to move to 220 volts soon, but I would like to. I'm not saying 'don't do it,' just that compressor is likely going to have a hard time keeping up. I usually keep a couple of parts of the project going, so I can work on something else, while the compressor is refilling.

If you want quiet(er), you should NOT be looking at an oil-less compressor. Mine is fairly loud (doesn't bother me, I work in an insulated garage, and always wear ear plugs.
 

pipsters

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Is getting 220 out to the garage out of the question?

I am considering this compressor.. still researching though. Not 100% sure about it, some of the reviews are less that glowing. But it has most of what I want, Horizontal, 120/240 capable and its oil lubed.

http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10...d=professional&prdNo=8&blockNo=8&blockType=L8

I have that same compressor. Works well except I had to put in a dedicated 30 amp breaker because I plugged it in so close to my breaker panel. Seems when you plug it in real close to your breaker panel, it gets too much current and pops the breaker, which after research I found is common for large electric motors. I can plug it in around back, a good 50' away, into a 15 amp outlet and it runs perfectly fine.

I do question the reviews about the motor burning out. Not saying it didn't happen, but it's possible those specific people used a long 14 gauge extension cord plugged into a 15 amp outlet to run their compressor. This would put a lot of stress on the motor.

It was my choice based on a) horizontal and b) largest output for the $$. You can get an IR 30 gal horizontal compressor but it's around $700.

Being horizontal, it is extremely portable, much more than the 30 gal uprights. But you need two people to lift it, it weighs a good 160#.

If horizontal isn't as important to you, Northern Tool does sell an upright 30 gal 155 psi refurbished on sale now for $270.
 
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Cornpanzer

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^^^ Exactly. A DA is a huge consumer of air. I have a Sioux 5" DA and it's air consumption is 15 CFM @ 90 PSI. This is enough to run my IR 5HP/60 gallon compressor at nearly 100% duty cycle while sanding.

Maybe newer models of DA's are easier on air consumption or maybe the OP should go with an electric DA sander.

As stated, I wont be using a DA.
 
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Cornpanzer

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Is getting 220 out to the garage out of the question?

I am considering this compressor.. still researching though. Not 100% sure about it, some of the reviews are less that glowing. But it has most of what I want, Horizontal, 120/240 capable and its oil lubed.

http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10...d=professional&prdNo=8&blockNo=8&blockType=L8

Sadly, I dont think 220 is an option, but I will do some homework on that. I did check my line and it is actually a 30 amp circuit.

Thanks for the suggestions.
 
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theoldwizard1

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Sadly, I dont think 220 is an option, but I will do some homework on that. I did check my line and it is actually a 30 amp circuit
Very unusual for a 120V circuit ! Can you confirm the size of the wire ? It should be 10 gauge for a 30A circuit.
 

Gary S

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120v limits you to about 5cfm. Unless you can find magical tools that use less than that, you need to run 240v to the garage. Sometimes there are no shortcuts to doing it right.
 

pipsters

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120v limits you to about 5cfm. Unless you can find magical tools that use less than that, you need to run 240v to the garage. Sometimes there are no shortcuts to doing it right.
Only if used continuously. My impact pulls roughly 20 cfm but my 25 gal 120v compressor does just fine.
 

crewchief888

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Im in the market for a reasonably good compressor for my garage. I rarely use air while wrenching, but occasionally need air for bodywork and fabrication. For space reasons, I need an upright that wont protrude more than about 21" from the wall. I have a dedicated 120 circuit (I think 20 amps).

My budget is about $400, but would be happy to spend less. One of my main concerns is noise as it is in a basement garage connected to the house.
I poked around here a little bit and saw that Lowes seemed to have a good deal, but they didnt even stock that unit at my local store.

Welcome any input - thanks!

i've had the same compressor issues for many years, limited budget, and 110v.
for the most part i use electric powered tools in the garage, multiple 4 1/2" grinders, electric sanders, corded drills. usually if i need air it's to remove lug nuts, or do suspension work.

:beer:
 

71flh

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I have that same compressor. Works well except I had to put in a dedicated 30 amp breaker because I plugged it in so close to my breaker panel. Seems when you plug it in real close to your breaker panel, it gets too much current and pops the breaker, which after research I found is common for large electric motors. I can plug it in around back, a good 50' away, into a 15 amp outlet and it runs perfectly fine.

Sorry, but electric equipment draws current; current isn't pushed through a load. It has nothing to do with being too close to the panel.
 

pipsters

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Sorry, but electric equipment draws current; current isn't pushed through a load. It has nothing to do with being too close to the panel.

Well whatever the reason, being plugged into the plug right next to the circuit breaker panel causes it to pop the breaker. If you use an extension cord or plug it into an outlet 20' away or more it's fine.

http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=131923&highlight=circuit+breaker&showall=1

That was before I put in a 30 amp breaker. After that, works great.
 
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Cornpanzer

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Well whatever the reason, being plugged into the plug right next to the circuit breaker panel causes it to pop the breaker. If you use an extension cord or plug it into an outlet 20' away or more it's fine.

http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=131923&highlight=circuit+breaker&showall=1

That was before I put in a 30 amp breaker. After that, works great.

Sounds to me like you have a high resistance point in that outlet. You might want to switch out the plug or examine the wiring. Putting the larger breaker in is possibly only disguising a serious fire hazard. (its like popping a fuse in your car and replacing it with a larger fuse. Next thing you know, smoke is pouring from under the dash.) :)
 

pipsters

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Sounds to me like you have a high resistance point in that outlet. You might want to switch out the plug or examine the wiring. Putting the larger breaker in is possibly only disguising a serious fire hazard. (its like popping a fuse in your car and replacing it with a larger fuse. Next thing you know, smoke is pouring from under the dash.) :)

Read the thread I linked to
 

theoldwizard1

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Read the thread I linked to

From that thread
sThe NEC allows you to go up to 250 percent (and more in certain cases) of normal ampacity on motor circuits to deal with nuisance tripping due to high inrush current.

... This is not some big deal. It is a simple matter of putting the correct 30 amp breaker on the motor circuit.

Here's your cite:

NEC 430.52(A), (B), (C), Table 430.52.

It lets you multiply your motor full load current by 250 percent to get your maximum breaker size. You can even go up to 400 percent in some cases

You should put a cover over the unused receptacle, like to protect for kids, and get a label on the in use outlet. "Dedicated Outlet, Breaker Sized for Motor Start, not for general use."
 
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