Need new windows
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Ross/Kzoo
Well-known member
I've had Andersen's casements in the last two houses and they will in the house that I build later this year. I love casement windows.
PS They have 4 lines/levels of quality. I think it's the 100, 200, 400 and the Eagle being the Cadillac. I'll use the 400.
They also have real expensive line IIRC.
PS They have 4 lines/levels of quality. I think it's the 100, 200, 400 and the Eagle being the Cadillac. I'll use the 400.
They also have real expensive line IIRC.
Last edited:
Leaflessshadetree
Well-known member
I installed some Marvin casement windows about 4 years ago. Been very happy with them. Easy to open, close and easy to work the locking lever which pulls them in for a tight seal.
They also make push out casements (no crank).
http://pros.marvin.com/windows/replacement-casement-windows/
They also make push out casements (no crank).
http://pros.marvin.com/windows/replacement-casement-windows/
Had Marvin's put in my mom's house 2 yrs. ago. Great windows, but pricey. She lives on a busy road and can't even hear the street traffic anymore. She's very happy with them and she's a tough sell.
On the other hand, I put vinyl, replacement casements in my home about 15 years ago and would not do it again. Hers are aluminum clad, wood interior.
On the other hand, I put vinyl, replacement casements in my home about 15 years ago and would not do it again. Hers are aluminum clad, wood interior.
AZ Pete
Well-known member
Pella should be considered as well. Maryin, Pella, and Anderson are all good windows. I put Pella's in one of my houses, to replace the originals and they were the best window that I have had, will use them again if the need arises.
Ross/Kzoo
Well-known member
Be advised that the brand loyalty many times refers to years past when they only produced one line/grade of windows. They all seem to have widened their product lines to appeal to all pocketbooks.
Scott H in Wheaton
Well-known member
Do a search on JD Powers & Associates (independent accounting firm), they do an annual survey of consumers who bought windows. Last 4 years Simonton was rated #1.
Are you doing Wood or Vinyl?
Wood is about 30% more expensive than vinyl, but adds more resale value to a home. Some HOA with high end homes will only allow wood replacement windows.
Vinyl, in addition to being less expensive, will be maintenance-free and usually has a higher energy rating than wood.
For Wood windows I would go with Anderson 400 series, for Vinyl I would use Simonton 6500 series.
A good window is useless without the proper installation, and the wrong installation can and will void any warranty from whichever manufacturer you choose.
Are you doing Wood or Vinyl?
Wood is about 30% more expensive than vinyl, but adds more resale value to a home. Some HOA with high end homes will only allow wood replacement windows.
Vinyl, in addition to being less expensive, will be maintenance-free and usually has a higher energy rating than wood.
For Wood windows I would go with Anderson 400 series, for Vinyl I would use Simonton 6500 series.
A good window is useless without the proper installation, and the wrong installation can and will void any warranty from whichever manufacturer you choose.
Dennis93
Well-known member
Pellas are nice, but too expensive for what they offer. Not good in terms of price vs quality. Stay away from HD/Lowes American Craftsman series as well as Andersens, especially the Silverlines, or any brand that says XXXX by (name brand company).
Good window brands include but not limited to
Gorell
Okna
Sunrise <-Cadillac
Softlite
Simonton <-best bang for buck, jd powers best overall value, excellent warranty
Wincore
MW-decent but step above builder grade
Marvins
They all have different levels of quality, but read some reviews before. Make sure you get what U-factor, SHGC, all that you want.
Casement is the most effective at reducing air drafts and most efficient compared to DH, sliding, and SH windows. Fixed windows are obviously even more efficient.
Check the DP rating, they are higher on casements, you want a higher rating if your area is prone to strong winds/hurricanes. Also check the U-factor, different climates make different factors more efficient.
Check the glass warranty, you want a lifetime or double lifetime warranty, and many top of the lines will warranty against breakage, and nets also. Nets go inside on casement windows, make sure you know that.
ABSOLUTELY get the folding crank, some windows come standard, but some it's like a $4 add on. Make sure you spec it in case they don't come with the fold in handles.
I went vinyl, but got the Simonton 5500 series. It provided me with the best level where I could get a ROI in a shorter amount of time and didn't go above and beyond other houses in my neighborhood. The most expensive window typically doesn't pay off until forever, and usually by then they will be broken or technology will be better.
In some areas, if a window is within 16 inches of the floor, it must be tempered, I didn't want to get tempered, so did it myself instead of having a company do it. Check code for tempered glass.
Lamination is a new feature where the noise levels go down dramatically, may want to consider it for you bedroom windows or downstairs if you live on a busy street. I didn't go laminated, but the foam around the new window and a new window did wonders to the noise level.
Some windows also offer blinds within the glass so you don't have to dust.
Make sure you get at-least double pane, it does make a big difference, and ask for the thickness of the glass and the space between it. Also get it argon filled and low e if you can afford it. Triple pane is overkill IMO.
If you have wood windows now, remember when you wrap it the water hitting the aluminum will make a tin noise like sleeping in a house with a metal roof. But I still advise getting the opening wrapped. I forgot about that so now when it rains I can hear pitter patter unlike before when the wood sills absorbed the noise. I didn't get wrapped windows outside and wood inside, they are very expensive, and can still warp after time being a natural product. I went vinyl all the way, and it's also super easy to clean. After a few times opening and closing wood windows they will get wear marks, and I DESPISE sanding, staining, and clear-coating. They look nice, but not for me, especially not worth the money for me.
Remember if you are replacing windows, the opening will get smaller, by about an inch in width and length, so know this.
Any questions just ask.
Trimming, capping, installing windows isn't that hard. Plenty of resources online. I bought a brake off craigslist and went to town. Ended up wrapping my soffit and fascia too after I finished. It was about 8K cheaper for all the windows and fascia for me to do it and I know it was done right.
Shoutout to tornadocaster and IHI on here, they REALLY helped me with my brake and window install questions, I still appreciate it guys!
Good window brands include but not limited to
Gorell
Okna
Sunrise <-Cadillac
Softlite
Simonton <-best bang for buck, jd powers best overall value, excellent warranty
Wincore
MW-decent but step above builder grade
Marvins
They all have different levels of quality, but read some reviews before. Make sure you get what U-factor, SHGC, all that you want.
Casement is the most effective at reducing air drafts and most efficient compared to DH, sliding, and SH windows. Fixed windows are obviously even more efficient.
Check the DP rating, they are higher on casements, you want a higher rating if your area is prone to strong winds/hurricanes. Also check the U-factor, different climates make different factors more efficient.
Check the glass warranty, you want a lifetime or double lifetime warranty, and many top of the lines will warranty against breakage, and nets also. Nets go inside on casement windows, make sure you know that.
ABSOLUTELY get the folding crank, some windows come standard, but some it's like a $4 add on. Make sure you spec it in case they don't come with the fold in handles.
I went vinyl, but got the Simonton 5500 series. It provided me with the best level where I could get a ROI in a shorter amount of time and didn't go above and beyond other houses in my neighborhood. The most expensive window typically doesn't pay off until forever, and usually by then they will be broken or technology will be better.
In some areas, if a window is within 16 inches of the floor, it must be tempered, I didn't want to get tempered, so did it myself instead of having a company do it. Check code for tempered glass.
Lamination is a new feature where the noise levels go down dramatically, may want to consider it for you bedroom windows or downstairs if you live on a busy street. I didn't go laminated, but the foam around the new window and a new window did wonders to the noise level.
Some windows also offer blinds within the glass so you don't have to dust.
Make sure you get at-least double pane, it does make a big difference, and ask for the thickness of the glass and the space between it. Also get it argon filled and low e if you can afford it. Triple pane is overkill IMO.
If you have wood windows now, remember when you wrap it the water hitting the aluminum will make a tin noise like sleeping in a house with a metal roof. But I still advise getting the opening wrapped. I forgot about that so now when it rains I can hear pitter patter unlike before when the wood sills absorbed the noise. I didn't get wrapped windows outside and wood inside, they are very expensive, and can still warp after time being a natural product. I went vinyl all the way, and it's also super easy to clean. After a few times opening and closing wood windows they will get wear marks, and I DESPISE sanding, staining, and clear-coating. They look nice, but not for me, especially not worth the money for me.
Remember if you are replacing windows, the opening will get smaller, by about an inch in width and length, so know this.
Any questions just ask.
Trimming, capping, installing windows isn't that hard. Plenty of resources online. I bought a brake off craigslist and went to town. Ended up wrapping my soffit and fascia too after I finished. It was about 8K cheaper for all the windows and fascia for me to do it and I know it was done right.
Shoutout to tornadocaster and IHI on here, they REALLY helped me with my brake and window install questions, I still appreciate it guys!
Dennis93
Well-known member
The Simonton 5500 is almost identical to the 6500, Simonton sells it as 6500 at Home Depot, but for all I have read/seen/touched they are identical. Just so HD can say no one else sells this window.
Stevie-Ray
Well-known member
I would advise everybody NOT to go with Care Free.......utter ****.
jjohnson70
Well-known member
We installed the Marvin Integrity line of windows in May 2013. We went with the wood/ultrex version of the window (fiberglass outside/wood inside). So far they are awesome and we couldn't be happier with the product or with the contractor who installed them.
With all the sub freezing weather in Chicago this winter we are pleased to see how much more comfortable the house is after getting rid of the old vinyl windows.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free
With all the sub freezing weather in Chicago this winter we are pleased to see how much more comfortable the house is after getting rid of the old vinyl windows.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free
I would advise looking into triple glazed windows from a Canadian or European manufacturer. US manufacturers ofter them but they are often significantly more expensive and significantly worse performing than Canadian or European windows. There just has not been enough demand here because consumers don't know and aren't interested enough to know to demand them. As an example, did you know that there is a difference in "low-e" glass for cold vs warm climates, and the glass designed for cold climates is hard to find in areas of the north!
Windows with an R-value of 8 or 10 are available for the same cost of on with an R of 2 or 3. This difference is significant and will lead to true savings.
I've been planning on Intus windows in my next house, but it'll be a couple years out, so no telling what else will be available by then.
Windows with an R-value of 8 or 10 are available for the same cost of on with an R of 2 or 3. This difference is significant and will lead to true savings.
I've been planning on Intus windows in my next house, but it'll be a couple years out, so no telling what else will be available by then.
Tuscani2718
Well-known member
I say Marvin all the way if they can be afforded. The key with windows is having the same material to the exterior so expansion contraction issues are minimized. Andersen uses up to 4 materials to the outside. This also causes problems with uneven color fade. Perhaps the best bang for thd buck are Integrity windows. They are fiberglass so expansion/contraction issues are minimal seeing as how everything has glass as the substrate. I formerly worked for a materials supplier who sold Andersen and Marvin. See which company provides better after sales help. You will pay more upfront for Marvin, but after dealing with customers for almost 10 yrs I am confident you'd be happier with your purchase.
Dale Leeds
Banned
My first two choices would have to be (1) Andersen and (2) Pella.
ddawg16
Well-known member
Too bad you don't live closer to the West Coast....Milgard would be a good option...great window for the price...
Here is a picture of a double casement window that we installed in our addition....fiberglass on the outside and vinyl inside....double pane...low E...Argon
We installed 15 windows of different sizes....$7k (I did the install)
One advantage to fiberglass on the outside....you can PAINT it....vinyl...you can have any color you want as long as it's white...
A unexpected plus after the windows were installed....besides great temp control....BIG difference in noise as compared to old AL double pane windows that got replaced (we also replaced all the old windows in the existing part of the house)
Windows are one of those things that if you go cheap....well...they are cheap. It's not like you can upgrade them later....and the labor to install is about as much as the cost of the window (unless you do it yourself)
One other thing...on some brands you can also get food faced on the inside...lets you stain it any color you want. Pricey....but cheap when you consider that you don't have to look at white vinyl if there is a bunch of wood around it.
If you want to see more pics of the windows....click on the link in my signature.
Here is a picture of a double casement window that we installed in our addition....fiberglass on the outside and vinyl inside....double pane...low E...Argon
We installed 15 windows of different sizes....$7k (I did the install)
One advantage to fiberglass on the outside....you can PAINT it....vinyl...you can have any color you want as long as it's white...
A unexpected plus after the windows were installed....besides great temp control....BIG difference in noise as compared to old AL double pane windows that got replaced (we also replaced all the old windows in the existing part of the house)
Windows are one of those things that if you go cheap....well...they are cheap. It's not like you can upgrade them later....and the labor to install is about as much as the cost of the window (unless you do it yourself)
One other thing...on some brands you can also get food faced on the inside...lets you stain it any color you want. Pricey....but cheap when you consider that you don't have to look at white vinyl if there is a bunch of wood around it.
If you want to see more pics of the windows....click on the link in my signature.
Slednut
Well-known member
Same here on the Milgard brand, just installed 10 of them.
Hpozzuoli
Well-known member
Champion was probably one of the best constructed windows I have seen. The only problem is to replace all my windows I was looking at 24k. Not planning on being in this house for that much longer I got Anderson's that were on closeout at Grossmans Bargain Outlet. I got 17 windows total including two casements and two bows. All double pane low e windows. I paid $3600 for all the windows and maybe another $100 in spray foam and caulk to put them in. These were replacements and not new construction windows. Don't pay anyone to do this for you. It's very simple to do a double hung window. To do a bow its nice to have some extra hands help, but still straightforward.