Need parts for 113. C-Man table saw

[MillerMav]

Good morning all,

I did some searching without much luck (both Google and here)....

My neighbor gave me a 9" 113.242721 Craftsman table saw. He had it for years and the switch stopped working so he quit using it and eventually bought a new one.

Now I have it. I don't do a lot of wood working so it should fit my needs for small projects here and there. I have researched setting it up so I know where the "tune-up" sites are and have that down.

That being said I cannot find OEM parts for this thing and wonder what parts I could retrofit.

First the switch. Is there just a universal switch I can buy and wire into the motor? I am comfortable with wiring so soldering on a new switch to the current motor wiring is no big deal.

Second the table insert. He couldn't find it (or didn't care) but there isn't one. Is there one that will work I can buy off the shelf? Do I have to make one? Do I keep hunting on eBay?

Third the fence. It has all of the fence and miter components so should I just fine tune those to get the best I can or is there another option that isn't terribly expensive I should use right out of the gate?

Thank you for your help

 

[gungatim]

I just checked sears parts direct, the switch is still available for $20, as is the start capacitor. The table insert is not, but most woodworkers make their own inserts (for zero clearance) out of wood. Usually you trace the old one or stick it with double face tape and use a flush cutting router bit but since you don't have the old one it will be a little more work tracing it out on the table and sanding to fit. I have a few old inserts for saws I don't own, usually from yard sales and such, so keep your eyes open. It looks like yours is the thin sheet metal style, not the thick cast style. If you measure it up maybe I have something that will fit.

 

[MillerMav]

I just checked sears parts direct, the switch is still available for $20, as is the start capacitor. The table insert is not, but most woodworkers make their own inserts (for zero clearance) out of wood. Usually you trace the old one or stick it with double face tape and use a flush cutting router bit but since you don't have the old one it will be a little more work tracing it out on the table and sanding to fit. I have a few old inserts for saws I don't own, usually from yard sales and such, so keep your eyes open. It looks like yours is the thin sheet metal style, not the thick cast style. If you measure it up maybe I have something that will fit.

I will measure it and get back to you; thanks!

That being said I would rather just buy a whole new switch unit and wire it up to the motor. With a saw of this vintage it would be easier than tearing apart the switch box to replace a switch and capacitor.

 

[Packard V8]

The older Craftsman saws are thick on the ground and especially the 9", the complete, working saws can be found for less than the cost of a new part from Sears.

Watch craigslist and garage sales and you'll see them for $25-35.

X2 on making your own zero clearance insert from wood. It only works for when the blade is set perpendicular to the table, but it works much, much better than the OEM pot metal insert with the wide slot.

Bottom line - the older C-man cast iron saws are essentially free and when properly set up, work much better than the new $200-300 Chicom plastic and aluminum **** from big box stores. They're worth the effort and with a bit of patience and DIY, can be put right for no money.

jack vines

 

[MillerMav]

Would this work? It matches in volts and amps. I could hard-wire it in. I am not concerned with this thing being period correct or something.

http://www.rockler.com/safety-power-tool-switch

 

[MillerMav]

Here are a couple pics of the insert if anyone has anything or knows of somewhere that might.