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Need prep/coating advice - 16-yr old garage with stains

37popov

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Dec 11, 2020
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Location
Texas
Hello - new member here from Austin, TX. We just closed on a new house, and would appreciate some advice on what to do with the 20’x30’ garage. Our budget is $2/sqft.
Our goal:
- My wife wants a glossy surface, and perhaps a less common look, as she’s googled metallic epoxy. She doesn’t mind going a little over budget for it.
- I’m worried about the condition of the garage (prep requirements) and the weather (forecast for the week before Christmas is high-30 nighttime and some 60’s daytime)
- Intended use: just regular suburban garage use (2 car parking), no car works (I only do oil change/tire rotations and gas OPE’s carb cleans), and a hangout place for two boys and their friends as the garage opens to a sizable side driveway with basketball hoop.
Skill/limitations:
- We don’t do many DIY (I'm not handy), but in our current 20-yr old starter home, we put down Sherwin Williams Shield Crete epoxy about 12 years ago. Obviously the garage’s concrete was in much better shape (no soaked-in oil stains, always had cardboard/carpet over the tires, etc.). We only did acid etc prep. I’ve been happy with it (no failure so far), but I know that my sister in-law’s garage with the same kit already had hot tire pickup failures.
- We have electric pressure washer (looking to get some gas one), and will rent the concrete grinder (we have a Sunbelt within 10 mile) - will appreciate any tips on the specific grinder (7" vs 11" disc pro and cons, etc.)
- We don’t have angle grinder nor big shop vac
So on to the garage, I would appreciate some help on 1) surface condition, 2) surface prep, and 3) coating option.
Surface condition - please chime in anything that I could be doing wrong:
- from the pics, the 3rd bay has obvious oil stains (ordered Pour n Restore, arriving this Friday).
- The middle bay is what’s confusing to me (never seen something like it). What is that surface condition? How do I mitigate it before we prep with the grinder?
- The steps area (door leading to the house): it looks to have some smoothness from traffic wear (?). Since the grinder doesn’t seem workable on it, what’s our option? Localized acid etch?
- The “lip” area (what’s the correct term?) on the same side as the steps, and right next to the water heater space: it looks to have oil or rust stain. What should I do here?
Surface prep:
- Pour n Restore on the obvious oil stains; Purple Power degreaser on other spots; and whatever the recommendation(s) is for the middle bay’s condition.
- Pressure wash
- Local acid etch on the steps
- Concrete grinder; and leaf blower the dust afterward
- Silly question: I put the grinder last, but should I pressure wash after the grinder? I would appreciate any recommendation on the order of things.
Coating options:
- Reading the datasheets, I know that anything epoxy is out (my wife’s wish of metallic epoxy) because of the weather/temps.
- We did get a professional quote ($5.5/sqft): he’d use a grinder and use a one-day kit. I looked it up from epoxy-2-u. Their datasheets suggest that their materials are for trained pros only - the base coat is super-short working time epoxy, and the top coat is also super-short working time polyaspartic.
- So far, I’m leaning toward a single-part polyurea kit (I did consider Hellfire/Rust Bullet, but didn’t pass wife’s OK).
- Whatever our choice will be, I’m thinking of working with the garage doors closed, and starting at the wall with the window, and ending on the lip with the steps. Can we tackle this lip and steps separately afterwards (either with leftovers without flake, or Hellfire/RB with gloss coat)?
- Our working window is the week before Christmas up to New Year’s.
Whew, didn’t mean to write a letter. Thanks in advance for any tips.
 

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37popov

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Texas
More detail pics
 

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rjacobs

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There are products that will pull all the oil stains out... Thats where I would start first. The only one I have experience with would cost way to much to do that whole garage. I know there are others that have been recommended on here before.

Then take care of any cracks.

Then diamond grind.

Then fill your saw cuts.

Then put your coating down.

For $2 a ft I think Legacy Nohr-S is hard to beat... 3 layers(primer, color, clear).
 

dls

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If you want 1-part polyurea next week, you need to order now. It ships ground due to being hazardous cargo and will take up to a week to get to you, excluding any lead time.
For the temperatures, I would check the slab temperature and not the air temperature. Once you lay the coating down, it will instantly heat up or cool down to temperature of the slab. Compare it with the specs of the product you intend to use. For prep I would grind or shot blast first and fill/fix cracks later. You would level it with handheld grinder later. You may not know the extent of required repairs until you grind. Patching after grinding also allows you to fix some grinding mistakes. It is easy to make mistakes with handheld grinder when cutting the perimeter - it does go through concrete very quickly. I've used Rust-Oleum 301012 and PC Products 72561 for concrete repair and both products are much harder than concrete once they set. Don't leave concrete patch products on your tools.
For oil stains try TSP (not substitute) if your local big box store carries it.
 
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37popov

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rjacobs and dls - thanks for chiming in! I see that I'll have to order by EOD tomorrow.
After more reading, I think I'll rent the 11" grinder, and use 4.5" handheld for the steps and edges (no localized acid etch).
Also, after trying to get oil stain/other stains, I'll pressure wash. After pressure wash, can I start grinding the day after as the concrete is drying? If so, after grinding, can I continue to let the concrete to dry (and/or waiting for products to arrive) without risking contaminants into the now relatively more porous surface? Am I overthinking it?
Thanks again for the feedbacks and keep 'em coming.
 

dls

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If you are planning on grinding dry, damp (not wet) concrete would not hurt. I think you could grind the same day you power wash.
 

rjacobs

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You need to get the oil OUT of the concrete as best you can... pressure washing wont do diddly in that regard.

And honestly, as much as it ***** to say, I would wait until spring to do a coating once temps come back up into the 70's... just my opinion. Ive read to many stories on here of guys trying to have their floors coated in the winter(or as we get here in Texas, cool air) and have complete failures.

That would give you time to get the floor prepped as far as oil stains and any crack repair. I wouldnt grind until just prior to laying the coating down.
 

dls

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You'll be fine with polyurea in low temperatures. If anything, it will not skin in your paint tray. But you have to be careful with any epoxy, including primers. Legacy sells cold weather primer. I used summer primer (ordered my kit in July, decluttering took longer than expected) in winter and had two small spots of uncured primer around the edges of the garage.
 
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37popov

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rjacobs - thanks for the honest feedback! We do need to get this done now, before moving in and then selling the current house in January.
dls - thanks! You helped confirm that polyurea is the best option for our needs now.
Oil stains and anything else that prevent proper mechanical bond are my next focus.
There doesn't seem to be any visible sign of crack.
Again, thanks for the advice!
 

rjacobs

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Was thinking post tension, but you have saw cuts so not likely.

I see maybe a small crack in your stemwall area below your water heater closet door, but probably not a huge issue vs if it was out in the field.

My garage had no saw cuts. There is a product to fill them before laying your coating down so they disappear. I believe you do that after grinding and not before.

But yea, get the oil out as best you can, then grind, then go to town with your coating.

I only have direct experience with the Legacy Nohr-s 3 layer system with light flake and couldnt be happier.

My only 2 pieces of advice when laying it down...
-work the epoxy primer FAST, although with it being cool I think you might get a little more working time. My wife and I worked quick and it was setting up at the end and I was getting a lot of roller lift. It was in the upper 90's when we were laying it down.

-When you flake, I recommend getting one of the small handheld fertilizer spreaders and use that. My wife did our flaking after the 1st 3rd of the garage and its clumpy...because she wasnt careful. We split up the flakes into I think 8 or 10 solo cups so we used even flakes across the garage... but my wifes skill(first time doing it) was not super great.

We did not use the spiked shoes... I bought them, never used them. If you want mine pay the shipping from Dallas to Austin and ill send em.
 

dls

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I would recommend using spiked shoes to inspect your work for holidays after you finish rolling if you are going with solid color. With no flakes the holidays are very visible and with one color coat you get only one chance to get rid of them.
 
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37popov

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rjacobs - thanks for your kind offer! I'm going to hold off for now.
dls - thanks for the continued tips.
I spoke to Justin (a real good guy!). He told me to focus first on figuring out the oil stains problem. I was set on partial flake polyurea kit and was looking to buy his products (including the oil block primer).
I'll start this weekend with Pour-n-Restore, other degreaser(s), pressure wash and localized grinding with angle grinder to see what I'm dealing with. He advised me not buy any products yet, and avoid getting stuck with that decision not knowing more about my specific problems.
I have to do some reading on garage tiles - even though my wife is completely opposed to them for now. I'm still hoping it's not that bad with the oil stains.
 

Armorpoxy

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Hi, why not grind the floor, and then use two coats of our pigmented one part SPGX Polyurea? It will cure at cold temps, gives resistance equal to or exceeding epoxy systems and is designed for DIY application. Cost will be less than $2/ft. Hundreds if not more satisfied GJ users.

Please email us below (not PM please) for info and a full quote. It comes in Tan or Gray only.
 

Armorpoxy

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Hi
SPGX is self priming and does not have or use a primer. It can handle up to about 4 lbs MVER, so if you have in excess of that then you need a moisture barrier primer or treatment and that would put you way out of budget.

If you have a moisture problem then this will be for any coating.

Below is a link to an inexpensive moisture barrier that we have recommended as a pre treatment for coatings and to our knowledge has worked 100% of the time to hold back the moisture. It's an inexpensive alternative to a 100% solids moisture blocking epoxy.

https://vanhearron.com/product/1-gal-deep-seal/
 
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