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need recommendation for wood sealer

wazzabie

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May 9, 2010
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I'm building a platform for a metal cutting band saw out of wood. I'm going to have a metal tray to catch cutting fluids but the wood may get oil and fluids on it. What should I use to protect the wood?
 
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mbatarga

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I’d recommend a few coats of polyurethane. Three or four good coats should protect the wood nicely.


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wazzabie

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May 9, 2010
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I ended up using a stain and poly sealer mix. I put on three coats. I then added some wax to finish it. I think this may be good at resisting oils and grease. It looks good.
 

dnschmidt

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The absolute best is automotive clearcoat. Go to an independent autobody supply store, that means not Sherwin-Williams, and buy some cheaper clearcoat and activator. I have a relationship with Rubber-Seal Products and their stuff is extremely good for a good price but there are others that fit this description as well many are available on Amazon. You'll need a spray gun and a respirator and need to spray this outdoors (or you'll likely die) but for what you're trying to do you can't beat clearcoat. AND it's super shinny too. Three coats and you'll completely seal the wood. Lightly sand smooth between coats with P400.
 

seber

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I would recommend against any kind of coating. Solid coatings like enamel and urethane will expand and contract differently than the wood and will eventually fail no matter how good they are. A penetrating sealer will hold up much better. I like danish oil types. You can make your own with urethane, tung oil and thinner, or buy Watco. Put as many coats on as you have patience for. After a two week drying period you can apply a hard coat over the top if you want shiny. I use danish oil on all my rifle stock builds. With rubbing it gets a nice glow and resists water like a duck's back.
 
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RTM

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May 13, 2019
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Cedar is very soft wood, and will also absorb lots of oils. In my opinion, it depends on what you are doing there. Since you mentioned not an Ace, guessing more automotive / metal working is in your future. So I would assume heavy things, banging, dropping, so I would think a oil, not a poly type coating. Not sure how "hard" or brittle Flood is.
 

theoldwizard1

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Feb 22, 2011
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SE MI
A penetrating sealer will hold up much better. I like danish oil types. You can make your own with urethane, tung oil and thinner, or buy Watco. Put as many coats on as you have patience for. After a two week drying period you can apply a hard coat over the top if you want shiny.
Penetrating or "drying" oils are your best bet. Danish oil and Tung oil are expensive and should be reserved for furniture.

Boiled linseed oil works well also. Thin 50% with turpentine. This will dry very quickly and you can easily get 3-5 coats on in 1 day. The last couple of coatsbshould be 100% BLO but beware it will take several WEEKS for it to dry. Longer in cool or damp weather?
 

HenryF

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Jul 14, 2021
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6
ince you mentioned not an Ace, guessing more automotive / metal working is in your future. So I would assume heavy things, banging, dropping, so I would think a oil, not a poly type coating.
You're right. Most often these are some sort of repairs.

Thanks for recommendations folks!
 

dnschmidt

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One comment on Acrylic Urethane (automotive clearcoat) there was a concern expressed above about wood movement. With clearcoat this isn't an issue. Hell fellas I paint flexible plastic bumpers with the stuff and it doesn't crack. If it can handle a bumper don't you think it can handle a little wood movement?
 
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