Need recommendations for door sizes and a 4-post lift

[wsonnenb]

I'm still planning my 4 bay 28x60, and need help with door widths and heights. I'm thinking one at 12'w by 10't, one at 10' by 10' and the other two 10'w by 8'tall. The two 10x8s would be where I'm putting a BendPak 2post that I just ordered, and maybe a 4 post I'm stiill considering.

Any reason to have 10' tall in all of them? The building will have 12' ceilings with scissors trusses for the lifts. What 4 post should I get?

 

[holdover]

I suppose you are putting the doors on the 28' ends. If it was me I would put a wider door say 20' X 10' and eliminate the short wall between the doors, maybe even go 12' tall because you are using scissors and will have the clrnc. Two 20' X12' will probablly cost less than the 4 doors and open up the whole garage nicely..

I have a Bendpac HD9 and a HD12 with extended and a movable ramp, If I was to have only the one it would be the HD12, with being able to move the right ramp I even change my lawnmower oil on the lift!

 

[wsonnenb]

I had originally thought 4 doors, one per bay along the long side, but two 20s might make more sense. It would eliminate two openers. Any guess how price would compare on 2 20s by 10' tall, compared to 4 doors of assorted sizes?

 

[ddcguy]

Before deciding, I would consult with a structural engineer or at least your local building department if this would even be allowed.

It sounds like frame/stick construction (using trusses) and I do not think you have enough sheer in a 28' wall with 12' and 10' doors in the same wall. I am guessing around 1' on each end with 1' between the doors which would only leave 3' of sheer panel.

When laying out my doors I had to have the engineer's wet stamp for trusses and loads before my truss company would even begin building. Since building codes vary across the country, take my experience for what it is worth...

I have a Stinger 4-Post lift (for 12 years or so) and with the wheel kit can easily move it around even with a car on it. No issues in the time I have owned it.

 

[rburke65]

How can he put 42' of door on a 28' wall?

 

[wsonnenb]

Several people have apparently misunderstood. On the 60 foot length, I am planning four doors for the four bays. There are to be no doors on the 28 foot ends.

 

[holdover]

If you put the doors on the long side and use 20' doors it will require a pretty beefy header to support the truss work, most likely a steel beam. I built a 40 X 60 and was only able to use an end for access due to setting the garage into an embankment. It worked out well, I use the back side of the garage for a work area and that is where the lifts are, and the front side for parking. The way it is set up I can put 11 vehicles in the garage, double stacking on the two lifts. there is no wasted space. If you go with a 20' door in the end, gable wall, it eliminates all the support required. As to shear strength a 20" door in the center of a 28' wall gives you 4' per side which is a 28% ratio sheer to open space. If I had both ends available I would have put doors at both ends.. Just a thought. and one other thing, I wish I built 50 X 80!

 

[APEowner]

I don't know where you're located but if you're either heating or cooling the building you probably don't want to open up a 20' wide door when a 10' or 12' will work. As far as height is concerned 8' is cutting it really close with allot of today's light trucks and vans. If you're running up onto a 4 post lift just inside the door then your really limiting yourself. The light bar on my stock height F-250 touches the door when I run up onto my buddy's 4 post which is just inside an 8' high door. That door is 10' wide and it's a bit close on the mirrors but it actually makes it easier to line up on the lift. If the mirrors clear the door then you're lined up on the lift.

 

[Cryptic1911]

I would stick with the same height on them all. I find it looks weird with varied height doors, but that's just me.

As for the 4 post, I'd stick with Bendpak since you already ordered a 2 post, but what are you going to be lifting? If its less than 9k, I'd just get the HD9-XW (wide / tall model)

 

[wsonnenb]

Thanks for the recommendation on the BP four post. I almost bought one yesterday, but the price is actually supposed to drop a hundred or so starting today. 2 posts went up, 4 posts down a little--is what I was told.

On the 20 foot door possibility, that's now out of the question. The door company said 20x10 is in the commercial realm, and prices go way up.

If anyone has comments on an 8h by 10w for the door at a BP 2 -post, let me hear some more about that. The door company can run the tracks up along the scissors truss vaulted ceiling, and I'm hoping that would stay out of the way of using the lift. If a 10'high door would be better for that, please explain. Maybe even a 9?

 

[APEowner]

I have 8' ceilings in my shop so I have allot of experience with the limitations of an 8' max vehicle height. In the last few months I've wanted to get an enclosed trailer, a car trailer with a tractor on it, an F-350 with a pipe rack and a 4 x 4 chevy with a lift kit in my shop and been unable to because of the 8' limit. When I pull my F-250 in I have to remember to pull the antenna of the roof.

Now is the time to put the taller doors in. Compared to the cost of the rest of the project it's not that much more money and you're going to have to live with the decision for a long time.

 

[bazzateer]

Four 10' x 10' doors, nice and simple and won't look weird. You may even be able to negotiate a discount.