To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Need Recommendations New Automotive Shop Floor

aqr81

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 20, 2010
Messages
1,127
Location
Central Valley, Ca.
We are building a new shop at my sons house in Ca. It will see a lot of automotive service & repair, build and restoration work. My son is not a fan of the "coatings" and is desiring a sealer that will repel automotive fluids spills and eliminate stains and easy to clean. Concrete slab will be 6" of 4000PSI reinforced concrete 1500 sq ft. From my reading it seems a penetrating sealer is the way to go. I found a product named DryWay that sounds like it might be good. I don't know much about this topic and would appreciate any and all your experienced recommendations and reasons.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Garage Flooring

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
We are building a new shop at my sons house in Ca. It will see a lot of automotive service & repair, build and restoration work. My son is not a fan of the "coatings" and is desiring a sealer that will repel automotive fluids spills and eliminate stains and easy to clean. Concrete slab will be 6" of 4000PSI reinforced concrete 1500 sq ft. From my reading it seems a penetrating sealer is the way to go. I found a product named DryWay that sounds like it might be good. I don't know much about this topic and would appreciate any and all your experienced recommendations and reasons.

You have a lot of choices and none are perfect for your application and or what your son likes.

You could densify and seal with 4500/8510 https://www.garageflooringllc.com/siloxa-tek-8505-concrete-sealer/ . It does not add any gloss or make the floor any smoother. It repels for a period of time but will eventually punch through.


Personally, I would consider a TruAlloy kit. It will be easier to clean and no punch through. The downside is yes it can get damaged. Relatively easy to repair but even damaged provides outstanding performance https://www.garageflooringllc.com/2021/02/02/franks-trualloy-installation-and-review/

Another really good option is two coats of clear polyurea https://www.garageflooringllc.com/2018/07/26/clear-polyurea-applications/
 

Andy Smith Jr.

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 6, 2020
Messages
116
Location
Houston, TX
It sounds this floor will see a lot of traffic so i don't think the sealers are the best option for longevity. Normally with heavy traffic you want to use a polyurethane, moisture cured urethane, or polyurea. Those products would be a better option IMO.
 
OP
A

aqr81

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 20, 2010
Messages
1,127
Location
Central Valley, Ca.
I appreciate the input from Justin Krauss at Garage Flooring LLC of Colorado and Andy Smith Jr. Both seem to offer the same advice; a coating would perform better than the sealer route.

Justin is it advisable to densify concrete before using either of the “coating options” you suggested? I have read through everything on your site until my eyes glazed over Justin:willy_nil If Polyurea is the best, how would the TruAlloy Kit be better? What does it do that the Polyurea does not? Is it a matter that the aluminum coloring pigment would cover the concrete while simply two coats of Polyurea clear would allow the natural concrete to show through slightly darker in appearance? I’ll go through all this info and your answers with my son and see what he thinks. We are in Kern Co, Ca – if I read it correctly, you are able to ship here, correct? Thanks for the additional clarity.
Larry
 

Dick in Wisconsin

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 3, 2012
Messages
3,048
Location
Shawano, Wisconsin
When I built my 1000sf race shop in 2014 I did lots of research on what to put on the floor and it would be a DIY project. Much of the reseach was on the GJF. I ended with Rust Bullet from Justin Krauss; which I'm not sure that Justin markets anymore, ask him for the details.

This was my first venture into the garage floor coating skill set. I ground the year old concrete that had been sealed, washed it, swept it, vacuumed it, washed it some more. I chose an off grey color. Had some issues with application that I think were my problem. Justin and the chemist at Rust Bullet were very responsive, even while on vacation! The job isn't perfect, but this was my first rodeo and I learned a ton about a product that uses moisture to cure, the impact of solvent, how to apply, etc. Justin can tell you the chemistry involved in Rust Bullet.

I put on four coats. I had bought a small can of red Rust Bullet to create eight 12"x12" squares for the two race car tires to sit on when in the shop (great idea by the way!!!!!!!). But it didn't go on well and flacked off from the underlying RB. The RB chemist worked with me, told me how to rough it up and remove the loose first application, and sent me more red RB on their nickel. Those have turned out pretty good.

The floor isn't perfect, but I think its pretty good for a first time DIY job. There are some aspects of Rust Bullet I really like:

1. Its nice and smooth. I can kneel on it in shorts or support myself under a car with my elbows and its NOT uncomfortable.

2. Its nice and smooth. Using a fine bristled push broom I can clean up anything in one or two passes no matter how fine or coarse whatever is on the floor.

3. I'm in Wisconsin. So I track in water and snow (in-floor hydronic heat, so snow melts quickly) and much to my surprise the floor is NOT slippery! There is a tiny amount of texture to the Rust Bullet that apparently keeps it from being slippery when wet.

It has held up very well. It seems to be impervious to gasoline, oil, grease, gear lube, brake fluid, brake clean, carb clean, etc. Most stuff I clean up right away, but sometimes something leaks or spill that I don't see for a couple of days.

The Rust Bullet has held up pretty well to rolling floor jacks, sliding jack stands, and anything with hard wheels rolling across it. A car dolly steel wheel sliding sideways with a car on it can scratch the floor ... but that will scratch just about anything. I've dropped heavy tools and hammers on it. Most of the time nothing, no damage. Once in a while there might be a chip in the first layer and that's it. Any chip in the first top layer doesn't see to "grow".

The floor has held up much, much better than the concrete floor in the attached garage that worked out of for nine years.

I also put Rust Bullet on the plywood floor of the new race trailer I bought in 2015. That has worked out equally well. What sold me on putting it on the trailer floor was how unslippery it was when wet ... rain and oil aren't very slippery on RB.

That's my story. I'm sure Justin can fill you in with more information on what he sells now that might be as good or better than Rust Bullet.
 
OP
A

aqr81

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 20, 2010
Messages
1,127
Location
Central Valley, Ca.
**** in Wisconsin, thank you for sharing your story. I did a quick search and the Rust Bullet product is still readily available. I will certainly get additional input from Justin. Thanks ****.

Larry
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Armorpoxy

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 18, 2013
Messages
3,735
Location
NJ
Hi, most of our commercial auto shops use a topical coating like our 100% solids ArmorUltra System since a topical coating is easier to clean. Sealers being very thin, don't offer much wear protection.
 

Garage Flooring

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
when i built my 1000sf race shop in 2014 i did lots of research on what to put on the floor and it would be a diy project. Much of the reseach was on the gjf. I ended with rust bullet from justin krauss; which i'm not sure that justin markets anymore, ask him for the details.

This was my first venture into the garage floor coating skill set. I ground the year old concrete that had been sealed, washed it, swept it, vacuumed it, washed it some more. I chose an off grey color. Had some issues with application that i think were my problem. Justin and the chemist at rust bullet were very responsive, even while on vacation! The job isn't perfect, but this was my first rodeo and i learned a ton about a product that uses moisture to cure, the impact of solvent, how to apply, etc. Justin can tell you the chemistry involved in rust bullet.

I put on four coats. I had bought a small can of red rust bullet to create eight 12"x12" squares for the two race car tires to sit on when in the shop (great idea by the way!!!!!!!). But it didn't go on well and flacked off from the underlying rb. The rb chemist worked with me, told me how to rough it up and remove the loose first application, and sent me more red rb on their nickel. Those have turned out pretty good.

The floor isn't perfect, but i think its pretty good for a first time diy job. There are some aspects of rust bullet i really like:

1. Its nice and smooth. I can kneel on it in shorts or support myself under a car with my elbows and its not uncomfortable.

2. Its nice and smooth. Using a fine bristled push broom i can clean up anything in one or two passes no matter how fine or coarse whatever is on the floor.

3. I'm in wisconsin. So i track in water and snow (in-floor hydronic heat, so snow melts quickly) and much to my surprise the floor is not slippery! There is a tiny amount of texture to the rust bullet that apparently keeps it from being slippery when wet.

It has held up very well. It seems to be impervious to gasoline, oil, grease, gear lube, brake fluid, brake clean, carb clean, etc. Most stuff i clean up right away, but sometimes something leaks or spill that i don't see for a couple of days.

The rust bullet has held up pretty well to rolling floor jacks, sliding jack stands, and anything with hard wheels rolling across it. A car dolly steel wheel sliding sideways with a car on it can scratch the floor ... But that will scratch just about anything. I've dropped heavy tools and hammers on it. Most of the time nothing, no damage. Once in a while there might be a chip in the first layer and that's it. Any chip in the first top layer doesn't see to "grow".

The floor has held up much, much better than the concrete floor in the attached garage that worked out of for nine years.

I also put rust bullet on the plywood floor of the new race trailer i bought in 2015. That has worked out equally well. What sold me on putting it on the trailer floor was how unslippery it was when wet ... Rain and oil aren't very slippery on rb.

That's my story. I'm sure justin can fill you in with more information on what he sells now that might be as good or better than rust bullet.


thanks!
 

02vito

Active member
Joined
Aug 30, 2017
Messages
40
Location
Colorado
I used a densifier/sealer on my new auto-shop floor. I followed the manufacturer's instructions. My old shop had an epoxy coating, and I did not like the way it wore, and it was difficult to recoat.

I am not satisfied with the stain resistance of the sealed floor. Most automotive fluids will not stain it if cleaned up immediately. But some fluids will stain even if immediately cleaned up.

Also, I found out from the sealer manufacturer after the fact that they recommend grinding a machine-troweled floor such as mine prior to applying densifier. There was no mention of grinding on the sealer container or in the manufacturer's-website instructions.

I have done two of my 3 bays with densifier/sealer. The third bay will get something else.
 

Armorpoxy

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 18, 2013
Messages
3,735
Location
NJ
We carry all of these products mentioned and the above is pretty much spot on. Penetrating products like Ghostshield work great, but since they are not topical have limitations and the floor should be cleaned fairly quickly to avoid permanent staining. Sealers are good but very thin and don't offer long life if a lot of traffic.

That being said generally speaking any residential application is low-traffic, unlike a car dealer or manufacturing facility which would be high traffic.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom