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Need sawhorse recommendations

bczygan

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Here's a solution.

Take a look at the following photo. Instead of making these out of discreet boards, cut them out of sheets of plywood.

Then make slots at the big end of the top to accept 2x4's or half rounds for pipes, and flip them around to use like a regular sawhorse.

120123_5F00_hinged.jpg


12013_5F00_hinged2.jpg
 
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cagullett1

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Actually a lot less effort if you cut them out of plywood. Just a circular saw, drill (For starter holes) and a jigsaw for inside cuts.

Where would you add a sacrificial board to it so that I don't start cutting this thing up? They definitely look cool.
 
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bczygan

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Where would you add a sacrificial board to it so that I don't start cutting this thing up? They definitely look cool.

Let me see if I can describe it in words.

OK, see where the open end of the "V" shape of the top edge is? Go in toward the point of the "V" a few inches and put a 1 1/2" notch in each edge of the top of the two panels that make up the "V". Now you can span a 2x4 across these notches. Do it on each base unit.

I also see that if you built these the right way, they could be flipped 90 degrees to sit like a traditional sawhorse. You would need to construct them so that edge that is now the top, could have a 2x4 inserted into it.

Get it?
 

bczygan

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OK, here's a couple of thumbnails.

First is a side view of one of the 2 main panels that make up one sawhorse. Adjust the size for your own needs. I'm thinking 1/2" plywood. The corners can be rounded to accommodate the jigsaw. Takes one sheet of plywood per sawhorse. The advantage is that these are quick and easy to build. Disadvantage is the cost of plywood. A light duty one might be thinner and a HD one might be thicker plywood. Don't be afraid to adjust the dimensions to suit your use. There is plenty of left over material to use for jigs and fixtures to put on top.

And don't think the dimensions shown are set in concrete. Maybe the 8" dimension could be 6" to make them lighter. And the suggested (But not shown) radius in the inside corner could be larger to make the corners stronger, like 3" or 4" or so.

The second view is a plan view. Looking down from above. You can see that the triangles are equilateral. This makes the notch cuts for the 2x4's easy as they are 30 degrees. It also gives a wide, stable base. But you could make it a more obtuse angle if you wanted. The plan view shows the points of the two bases put together. They could be connected to make the whole thing even more stable. But as separate bases, they could be lid even closer together to create a rectangle, or pulled apart for longer work pieces.

Notches for pipe could be incorporated in the base, as shown, or into the 2x's that set into the base. The 2x4's are replaceable as they get chewed up. Note that I have shown the notch for the 2x4 as being 8" from the end. It might need to be a little further for balance.

You could turn each base (Or both bases together) into a work table by adding a piece of plywood to the top.

Using hinges, these will fold fairly flat for storage.

Anyone have any other ideas?
 

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alwaysFlOoReD

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I would take the time to make it out of 1x4 using lap joints, just to save money. It would be slightly bulkier. In fact the sawhorse design I described is much the same idea without the folding step. I think the step makes it much sturdier than mine.

Richard
 
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Roberts210

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Make your own! At the lumber yard I picked up some weathered Y.P. 2X4 for next to nothing and made a bunch for the house I'm building. Total cost less than $3 per sawhorse.

162851971.jpg
 
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