Need some drywall advice.

[Superlifted06FX4]

I'm looking to put a finished ceiling in my garage, but am unsure of what kind or thickness to use. It is a detached two and a half car with attic. I plan on adding a better floor upstairs eventually, but for now it will just be the ceiling and insulation. Thanks in advance.

 

[Steevo]

If your trusses/joists are 24" or less apart, you can apply drywall directly to the bottom side.
If they are farther apart, you'll need to install metal furring channels perpendicular to your trusses/joists at 16 or 24" centers to fasten the drywall to. You can get away with 1/2 drywall on 16" centers, but 5/8" is required for 24", and I'd use 5/8" anyway just for rigidity and sound barrier. You don't need any special kind, just generic sheetrock you buy from the big box DIY store. 1-5/8" coarse thread drywall screws for attachment to wood, or 1-1/2" fine thread drywall screws for attachment to metal furring channel, every 8" along the field and 2" from the edges.

 

[38Chevy454]

I put 12 ft sheets on my 12 ft high ceiling, it was hard work. Me and my buddy, both 47 years were hurting for a week after. Drywall should have an age limit of 30 years or less for installation on a ceiling.

Use 8 ft lengths and it would have been a lot easier, even with a few more seams to deal with. Mudding, taping and sanding with 12 ft high was no fun either. Next time I will just pay the money and let real drywall professionals do the job.

 

[pattenp]

If your trusses/joists are 24" or less apart, you can apply drywall directly to the bottom side.
If they are farther apart, you'll need to install metal furring channels perpendicular to your trusses/joists at 16 or 24" centers to fasten the drywall to. You can get away with 1/2 drywall on 16" centers, but 5/8" is required for 24", and I'd use 5/8" anyway just for rigidity and sound barrier. You don't need any special kind, just generic sheetrock you buy from the big box DIY store. 1-5/8" coarse thread drywall screws for attachment to wood, or 1-1/2" fine thread drywall screws for attachment to metal furring channel, every 8" along the field and 2" from the edges.

Wrong. 1/2 inch is stated by the drywall manufacture as being ok to use with 24 inch centers. Must be a code thing in your area.

 

[cowboy73]

5/8" is the way to go on ceilings no matter what your joist spacing. It doesn't sag like the 1/2" will especially with insulation on top of it. And buy or rent a drywall lift to do the ceilings. You can buy an imported lift for around $300. If the job is going to last more than a day or two, the rental fees start adding up. You could always sell the lift later for almost what you paid for it. My dad, mom, brother and I did a 24 X 28 room in their house in about 6 hours using a lift and we ain't no drywall installers. Dad bought the lift so we can hand drywall in the other 2700 square feet of his house.

 

[darkk]

We just had our garage addition dry walled. 182 sheets of 5/8x4x12 and 10 sheets 5/8x4x8 That **** is wicked solid.....

 

[Steevo]

I never mentioned code, I just said 24" centers require 5/8" drywall.
Unless of course you like saggy ceilings . . .

 

[Steevo]

Drywall should have an age limit of 30 years or less for installation . . . Next time I will just pay the money and let real drywall professionals do the job.

Amen to that. I paid professionals and had my 24x40x12 ceiling done in all 5/8" in three days start to finish, with a super smooth mud job, too. $2350 labor and materials. It would have cost me that much or more in doctor bills to get my back, shoulders, neck, feet and knees fixed, and would have taken me a month to do.

 

[Altec]

I can't even stand 24" centers... I always build my junk to 16"...

When I've done dry wall hanging on ceiling I did a few things to make my life easier.

1. Make sure none of the trusses are warped by measuring them. I've seen them bowed a bit side-to-side. Not gonna comment on fixing it, that is up to you...

2. Chalk line the dry wall to where the screws go.

3. Countersinking drywall bits rock.

4. You can rent a jack that looks sort of like a transmission jack to hold the drywall on the ceiling (Highly recommended). Makes life easier... Otherwise I have used 2x4's to make something that looks like a wide shop broom to hold one end of the drywall.

5. A obvious one... Many hands make light work. Two drills running, and someone there to feed screws is very handy.

 

[pattenp]

I never mentioned code, I just said 24" centers require 5/8" drywall.
Unless of course you like saggy ceilings . . .

I didn't say you did. When you stated 5/8 is required for 24" centers I read that as meaning there was some higher authority saying that 5/8" had to be used for 24" centers. I'm with you on that 5/8" is the better choice if you have 24" centers.

 

[70redbee]

5/8 is the only way to go in the garage for walls and ceilings. Hell when I built my house back in 94 I used 5/8 for my whole house, and have loved it.
JMO

 

[Thruxton]

This is right on IMHO:

I can't even stand 24" centers... I always build my junk to 16"...

When I've done dry wall hanging on ceiling I did a few things to make my life easier.

1. Make sure none of the trusses are warped by measuring them. I've seen them bowed a bit side-to-side. Not gonna comment on fixing it, that is up to you...

2. Chalk line the dry wall to where the screws go.

3. Countersinking drywall bits rock.

4. You can rent a jack that looks sort of like a transmission jack to hold the drywall on the ceiling (Highly recommended). Makes life easier... Otherwise I have used 2x4's to make something that looks like a wide shop broom to hold one end of the drywall.

5. A obvious one... Many hands make light work. Two drills running, and someone there to feed screws is very handy.

 

[Homespun91]

5/8" drywall may be required on the ceiling to meet local fire codes as well. Given that you are planning to eventually use the upstairs, I would probably run 1x3 furring strips perpendicular to the joists/ties, and attach the drywall to them, especially if they are somewhat uneven. It's not absolutely necessary, but, depending on your truss/rafter construction & layout, you may eventually see some screw pops or seam issues if you attach the Sheetrock directly. It may be just fine without doing so, too...