Need some help restoring a Walker Turner Drill press...

[Hot Chop shop]

so I am "trying" to restore this walker turner Drill press that I picked up on the on Craigslist yesterday... a few questions for anyone that has restored an older Drill press or similar tool restore... since I have no clue what I am doing

1. How can I remove over-spray paint off the decal on the front without taking off the paint of the original label? (I tried a few mild products and even made the HUGE mistake of trying a Scott bright pad on an edge... nothing seems to get the red off...

2. do I paint these buttons? or is there an inexpensive replacement out there?

3. if I can remember how to put it back together what is a good lubricate to use?


4. does anyone know where they sell a replacement belt or should I take it to Napa or auto zone and have them match it with a similar belt substitute.


Think that is all the questions I can remember for now... i think all the lead In the paint that i have been grinding off is getting to my brain...

I always appreciate the help!

 

[Stuart in MN]

The pushbuttons on the motor controller can probably be cleaned up without painting them. Scrub them with a toothbrush and something like Simple Green, and then use some plastic or metal polish.

 

[Slupie]

www.owwm.org and http://vintagemachinery.org/ are a great resource for vintage machien rebuilding and info.

 

[jakemac]

IDK if any of these will fit your model but if you need parts, there are a bunch on eBay right now.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=craftsman+%3Dv%3D+socket+set&_sop=10&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1311.R1.TR5.TRC1.A0.Xwalker+turner+&_nkw=walker+turner+drill+press&_sacat=0

 

[Packard V8]

Take your old belts to a bearing supply house and ask for the same length in an X-suffix belt which is cogged or notched on the back side. They're stronger and bend easier.

jack vines

 

[zkling]

Very nice machine. I saw your post on the other thread. CL find? How much if you don't mind?

It looks like a 1200 series, production table, 1/2" chuck, standard speed (~600RPM min IIRC), standard ~4" stroke, bench drill. Kinda a rare and sweet combo. I think it is from the late 50's. That is one of the best bench top drill presses you could have for a home shop. Great machines, I'm jealous

Post the serial number and we can track down a DOB

1. How can I remove over-spray paint off the decal on the front without taking off the paint of the original label?

This can be tricky. I've used a combo of... (in order from mild to wild). Rubbing alcohol, simple green (may need to let soak), mineral spirits, acetone. Combined with a toothpick and an old credit card or the like as a scraper. Do not use a razor blade or anything hard and sharp. Work slow.

You just have to be careful to not lift the factory paint. Simple green works pretty good to remove cheaper, non factory paint, just don't let it sit too long.

2. do I paint these buttons? or is there an inexpensive replacement out there?

They should be cleaned and if you want to be 100% accurate, the engraved letters should get white paint floated in them. Those switches are knida rare and pretty sought after ($). So use caution when disassembling. I have taken apart one or two. Just go slow and don't force anything.

3. if I can remember how to put it back together what is a good lubricate to use?

Lubricate what part?

4. does anyone know where they sell a replacement belt or should I take it to Napa or auto zone and have them match it with a similar belt substitute.

Just go to a local inudstrial supply house and get a good quality V belt. Packard made a good suggestion above. Just don't get one of those snap together link belts. They will chew up the aluminum pulleys.

Think that is all the questions I can remember for now... i think all the lead In the paint that i have been grinding off is getting to my brain...

I personally prefer electrolysis or chemical stripping for old machines. Electrolysis takes off the rust and the paint. All the machines I drag home seem to have a good combination of both.

 

[Hot Chop shop]

The pushbuttons on the motor controller can probably be cleaned up without painting them. Scrub them with a toothbrush and something like Simple Green, and then use some plastic or metal polish.

thanks for the help.

www.owwm.org and http://vintagemachinery.org/ are a great resource for vintage machien rebuilding and info.

great sites! even found a page with a guy rebuilding a similar DP

IDK if any of these will fit your model but if you need parts, there are a bunch on eBay right now.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=craftsman+%3Dv%3D+socket+set&_sop=10&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1311.R1.TR5.TRC1.A0.Xwalker+turner+&_nkw=walker+turner+drill+press&_sacat=0

great find!

Take your old belts to a bearing supply house and ask for the same length in an X-suffix belt which is cogged or notched on the back side. They're stronger and bend easier.

jack vines

I have heard about the "Vbelts" never of the X-suffix belts... thanks for the heads up

Very nice machine. I saw your post on the other thread. CL find? How much if you don't mind?

I paid $50

It looks like a 1200 series, production table, 1/2" chuck, standard speed (~600RPM min IIRC), standard ~4" stroke, bench drill. Kinda a rare and sweet combo. I think it is from the late 50's. That is one of the best bench top drill presses you could have for a home shop. Great machines, I'm jealous

Post the serial number and we can track down a DOB
12-2264



This can be tricky. I've used a combo of... (in order from mild to wild). Rubbing alcohol, simple green (may need to let soak), mineral spirits, acetone. Combined with a toothpick and an old credit card or the like as a scraper. Do not use a razor blade or anything hard and sharp. Work slow.

You just have to be careful to not lift the factory paint. Simple green works pretty good to remove cheaper, non factory paint, just don't let it sit too long.



They should be cleaned and if you want to be 100% accurate, the engraved letters should get white paint floated in them. Those switches are knida rare and pretty sought after ($). So use caution when disassembling. I have taken apart one or two. Just go slow and don't force anything.



Lubricate what part?
(Keep in mind I am not sure all of the proper names of each part)
Well I assume the bearings take a thick bearing grease... I guess it save to assume anything on the actual drive shaft that does the spinning should get thick bearing grease...

I am always confused on grease if you google the proper grease for one thing example craftman bearing slide drawers you will find several different suggestions and products...



Just go to a local inudstrial supply house and get a good quality V belt. Packard made a good suggestion above. Just don't get one of those snap together link belts. They will chew up the aluminum pulleys.
no snap link belt got.


I personally prefer electrolysis or chemical stripping for old machines. Electrolysis takes off the rust and the paint. All the machines I drag home seem to have a good combination of both.

building an electrolysis trash-can/tank is on my list to do.


thanks for all the help.

 

[zkling]

I paid $50

Post the serial number and we can track down a DOB
12-2264

$50 WOW, You **** for sure. Amazing price for a great machine.

Well I assume the bearings take a thick bearing grease... I guess it save to assume anything on the actual drive shaft that does the spinning should get thick bearing grease...

I am always confused on grease if you google the proper grease for one thing example craftman bearing slide drawers you will find several different suggestions and products...

The bearings are (or should be) sealed for life. Honestly it would be best to replace them, with new. Typically on machine tools like that you will use oil to keep things like the quill (par that slides up in down that carries the chuck). You can use past wax on the table, column and other exposed surfaces to prevent rust.

Some helpful reading, not the exact same press, but close enough to get the point across. Again you **** for $50

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/808/2423.pdf
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/808/2431.pdf
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/808/2243.pdf

 

[Hot Chop shop]

Lets see If I ever get humpty dumpty back togther again

a little closer to done... just need to scrub the dull levers with a Scott bright pad and wd-40 and run new wires from the switch to power box and instal the new cord and lube and resemble...

 

[zkling]

Ah man, I was digging the bright red.

Looking good

 

[Hot Chop shop]

$50 WOW, You **** for sure. Amazing price for a great machine.



The bearings are (or should be) sealed for life. Honestly it would be best to replace them, with new. Typically on machine tools like that you will use oil to keep things like the quill (par that slides up in down that carries the chuck). You can use past wax on the table, column and other exposed surfaces to prevent rust.

Some helpful reading, not the exact same press, but close enough to get the point across. Again you **** for $50

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/808/2423.pdf
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/808/2431.pdf
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/808/2243.pdf

Ah man, I was digging the bright red.

Looking good

I was real happy on the price! not as happy about scratching up my bumper lifting it solo into the back and dragging it in... heavier than it looks

yeah I was tempted to go with red... but I was told that the black and red of my garage was getting out of control so thought I give the rustoleum dark machinery gray a chance..

 

[Hot Chop shop]

All done just need to print up a new decal... Thanks for the help

Not too fun lifting it up there

 

[silentpoet]

That looks awesome now.

 

[nine4gmc]

Great job, sweet DP!!!

There is a Walker Turner Band Saw local but the guy wants an arm and a leg for it and even says it has a cracked cast piece that controls tension. I emailed an offer but apparently he didn't like what I had to say, no reply...

http://batonrouge.craigslist.org/tls/4044786185.html

 

[Tim338]

I have the same band saw. Its a great little machine. Mine had the same issue so I machined a new part since I couldn't find a replacement. It wasn't that difficult. I paid $35 for mine so I think that price is way out of line. If you do end up with it let me know maybe I can help.

Great job, sweet DP!!!

There is a Walker Turner Band Saw local but the guy wants an arm and a leg for it and even says it has a cracked cast piece that controls tension. I emailed an offer but apparently he didn't like what I had to say, no reply...

http://batonrouge.craigslist.org/tls/4044786185.html

 

[zkling]

All done just need to print up a new decal... Thanks for the help

Great job. That is one of the best bench top drill presses you could find. Especially for $50.

What happened to the front badge? Please don't tell me you polished it away? That wasn't a decal but an actual stamped badge.

There is a Walker Turner Band Saw local but the guy wants an arm and a leg for it and even says it has a cracked cast piece that controls tension. I emailed an offer but apparently he didn't like what I had to say, no reply...

I'd avoid that. WT had a lot of problems with their tensioning mechanisms. IIRC they were pot metal so welding them was not an option. Sure a machine shop could do it for you but. $$$. Heck I have a "machine shop" in the garage and I wouldn't even touch that machine for $100. let alone $200 . Maybe $50 and I really wanted a project. Plus that is a pretty small saw.

 

[Hot Chop shop]

That looks awesome now.

Thanks.

Great job, sweet DP!!!

There is a Walker Turner Band Saw local but the guy wants an arm and a leg for it and even says it has a cracked cast piece that controls tension. I emailed an offer but apparently he didn't like what I had to say, no reply...

http://batonrouge.craigslist.org/tls/4044786185.html

Thanks still think maybe I should have gone red... But now that I know how to take it apart you never know... Especially cause the post in the middle didn't come out as shiny as some of the other restored DP after I hit it with the wire wheel I should have spent more time with a Scott bright pad and WD-40 to get it to bling....

Yeah I hate when they don't respond back, once the dialogue is open then you can get closer to meeting somewhere in the middle but some people get offended too easy... But you don't know if you don't ask...

Great job. That is one of the best bench top drill presses you could find. Especially for $50.

What happened to the front badge? Please don't tell me you polished it away? That wasn't a decal but an actual stamped badge.



I'd avoid that. WT had a lot of problems with their tensioning mechanisms. IIRC they were pot metal so welding them was not an option. Sure a machine shop could do it for you but. $$$. Heck I have a "machine shop" in the garage and I wouldn't even touch that machine for $100. let alone $200 . Maybe $50 and I really wanted a project. Plus that is a pretty small saw.

I guess I must have posted it earlier in this thread or maybe in my garage build thread... But long story long there was red over-spray on the badge I tried every mild method and of course the next step up took the over spray off and the original paint I know it's just a tool but I was pretty upset that it last so many years and then I get my hands on it and destroy that piece of history....

 

[zkling]

T
I guess I must have posted it earlier in this thread or maybe in my garage build thread... But long story long there was red over-spray on the badge I tried every mild method and of course the next step up took the over spray off and the original paint I know it's just a tool but I was pretty upset that it last so many years and then I get my hands on it and destroy that piece of history....

Ahhh damn, you should have posted, I could have cleaned it up for you without damage to the original paint. O well, live and learn. Hopefully you can get the decal or even hand paint it back to original looks.