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Need some help w/ tool shopping (field service)

Joined
Dec 20, 2015
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Hi all,

I've always been more of a lurker on this forum.

When I was an automotive tech at Toyota dealerships, I realized that you all were a great resource for how to acquire the best tools of my trade as cheaply as possible.

But I never bothered to learn how to acquire tools through traditional routes--oops!

I quit working on cars, and after a short stint doing field service for a petroleum company, I am starting an equipment repair (field service) department for a packaging company. I'm the first guy to do the job for the company, and as far as the actual work goes it's pretty straightforward--it's all pretty bog standard electrical and mechanical repair, with some pneumatic systems.

Car repair sure teaches bad tool habits lol--you buy these giant toolboxes and fill them full of everything, but this job that won't fly because I'll be hauling most of my stuff around with me on my back, so weight matters.

I have a list of tools I'm trying to get, and my employer will be footing the bill, but I was hoping you guys could help me narrow my focus on a few things:

Portable tool storage: I'm thinking about getting a Veto Pro Tech Pac for hauling tools from the van around the job site. Anyone think there's a better solution than this? I know the Husky tool totes with the wheels and the handle are cheaper, but that big central area seems like it would get real disorganized real fast.

Sockets/ratchets/wrenches: The equipment I work on uses SAE and metric fasteners. I don't want to be hauling a full set of 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" sockets/ratchets/extensions, plus full sets of combo, ratcheting, etc. wrenches.

From what I've seen so far, most of the fasteners are in the small to medium range, unless I'm doing assembly or really taking a machine apart, then the structural fasteners can be north of 1".

What's the cheapest, lightest, best performing, one-size-fits-most solution to this as far as wrenches and sockets go? I'll be able to store the rarer/larger sizes/tools in the work van. Generally, my preference is to order things as sets, just to simplify the shopping process.

Pliers: As I mentioned I'll be doing electrical repairs, as well as general mechanical repairs. Any advice on how I can get the most done with the fewest pliers? I'll need side cutters, strippers/crimpers/cutters, snap ring pliers, needle/long nose pliers, and some sorts of adjustable pliers / water pump pliers.

And should I be looking at something like these Knipex pliers instead of traditional adjustable wrenches?

General field service advice: Any of you with field service experience have any insights you would have wished someone told you at the start of your career? If so, I'd love to hear it!

Thanks!
 
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Mr. T

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I wouldn’t call them cheap but Wera 2go stuff is really nice. Pretty much designed with the mobile tech in mind.

I have the metric 1/4 and 3/8 set. Not Snap-On nice but they hold up.

Also the Stahlwille Motor series wrenches (DOEs) are very good for the price and gives you a lot of sizes in a small package.
 

MattT

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Feb 20, 2010
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Car repair sure teaches bad tool habits lol--

Car repair teaches the best tool habits IMO. Use the best tools available to maximize productivity. I've always found it odd that an automotive tech thinks nothing of dropping a few hundred on tools to make some extra money but an industrial company won't spend a few hundred to save thousands on the tools first use:headscrat

I have a list of tools I'm trying to get, and my employer will be footing the bill, but I was hoping you guys could help me narrow my focus on a few things:

Personally I'd try to get that changed to employee provides professional quality hand tools, company provides specialty. Company tools attracts people who don't have any and you REALLY don't want those guys as co-workers. And while you're at it try to get some kind of tool allowance tacked onto your base pay.

Also if you have to go the company tools route make it clear that your list is just a best guess and subject to change once you get out in the field.

Portable tool storage:

Pick something and see if it works. Then get replace it with something else based on your experience with it.

Sockets/ratchets/wrenches: The equipment I work on uses SAE and metric fasteners. I don't want to be hauling a full set of 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" sockets/ratchets/extensions, plus full sets of combo, ratcheting, etc. wrenches.

Figure out what sizes you need regularly and only carry those. The metric will probably only be one thread standard which will allow you to leave over half of them in the truck. SAE you're probably not going to use the full set on a regular basis either. Personally I combine SAE and metric on the same rail. Easy to grab the next size when your first pick isn't quite right. Also don't duplicate SAE and metric sizes that are only a few thousandths apart. You don't need 19mm and 3/4".

Figure out whether shallow, mid or deep sockets work best and only carry one length.

Forget the ratcheting wrenches for now. Your primary focus has to shift from productivity to capability.

What's the cheapest, lightest, best performing, one-size-fits-most solution to this as far as wrenches and sockets go?

You can't have all three. Personally I use Snap-on for light and best performing.

Pliers: As I mentioned I'll be doing electrical repairs, as well as general mechanical repairs. Any advice on how I can get the most done with the fewest pliers? I'll need side cutters, strippers/crimpers/cutters, snap ring pliers, needle/long nose pliers, and some sorts of adjustable pliers / water pump pliers.

I've found needle nose with the burner jaws to be good all round lighter use pliers. Knipex Alligators have top class capability combined with about the lightest weight.

Crimps you'll have to go with real crimp tools if you're expected to make OEM quality repairs.

And should I be looking at something like these Knipex pliers instead of traditional adjustable wrenches?

Not instead of because they need more working room than crescent wrenches. I do carry one paired with a crescent and that works pretty well.

General field service advice: Any of you with field service experience have any insights you would have wished someone told you at the start of your career? If so, I'd love to hear it!

Don't let it run you into the ground. Use the expense account to eat properly. Get a hotel rather than driving all night to get to the next job.
 

dagofast

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The QC in AZ
I was in machine tool field service for 20+ years. I used (and still have) a Jensen roto-molded case. Tough as nails, it survived the luggage gorillas at many an airport and the typically rough environments of machine shops. Jensen has pre-assembled tool kits for many industries. I preferred to build my own so I chose the size case I wanted and the pallets for the tools I needed to carry. Luckily for me, Jensen was right here in Phoenix so it was easy to just pop in and look over different pallets and pick the best ones. I also had some of their tools which were good to excellent quality. Get a good tool cart, I used a Remin (also from Jensen) and I still have it. It did get sent in for repairs once after I used it to move a crate with a rotary table in it that FAR exceed its 300 pound weight rating. If memory serves, I bent a downtube.

Good luck with your new adventure!
 

jeepinerdeep

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Car repair teaches the best tool habits IMO. Use the best tools available to maximize productivity. I've always found it odd that an automotive tech thinks nothing of dropping a few hundred on tools to make some extra money but an industrial company won't spend a few hundred to save thousands on the tools first use:headscrat



Personally I'd try to get that changed to employee provides professional quality hand tools, company provides specialty. Company tools attracts people who don't have any and you REALLY don't want those guys as co-workers. And while you're at it try to get some kind of tool allowance tacked onto your base pay.

Also if you have to go the company tools route make it clear that your list is just a best guess and subject to change once you get out in the field.



Pick something and see if it works. Then get replace it with something else based on your experience with it.



Figure out what sizes you need regularly and only carry those. The metric will probably only be one thread standard which will allow you to leave over half of them in the truck. SAE you're probably not going to use the full set on a regular basis either. Personally I combine SAE and metric on the same rail. Easy to grab the next size when your first pick isn't quite right. Also don't duplicate SAE and metric sizes that are only a few thousandths apart. You don't need 19mm and 3/4".

Figure out whether shallow, mid or deep sockets work best and only carry one length.

Forget the ratcheting wrenches for now. Your primary focus has to shift from productivity to capability.



You can't have all three. Personally I use Snap-on for light and best performing.



I've found needle nose with the burner jaws to be good all round lighter use pliers. Knipex Alligators have top class capability combined with about the lightest weight.

Crimps you'll have to go with real crimp tools if you're expected to make OEM quality repairs.



Not instead of because they need more working room than crescent wrenches. I do carry one paired with a crescent and that works pretty well.



Don't let it run you into the ground. Use the expense account to eat properly. Get a hotel rather than driving all night to get to the next job.


All this^.

Stuff attracts lookie loos from thieves to accountants. Neither of which you want seeing it. Keep it streamlined and close to you.
 
OP
I
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Dec 20, 2015
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Also the Stahlwille Motor series wrenches (DOEs) are very good for the price and gives you a lot of sizes in a small package.
I do like the idea of DOE wrenches, because I get more sizes with fewer wrenches than with combination wrenches.

Car repair teaches the best tool habits IMO. Use the best tools available to maximize productivity. I've always found it odd that an automotive tech thinks nothing of dropping a few hundred on tools to make some extra money but an industrial company won't spend a few hundred to save thousands on the tools first use:headscrat
Oh, totally—the productivity mindset is very helpful. I guess it’s the hoarding mentality for niche/specialty tools that I’m finding is making me scatterbrained during this tool ordering process.
Personally I'd try to get that changed to employee provides professional quality hand tools, company provides specialty. Company tools attracts people who don't have any and you REALLY don't want those guys as co-workers. And while you're at it try to get some kind of tool allowance tacked onto your base pay.
Honestly, I completely agree, but for now the company providing all the tools is how it’s going to be.

Also if you have to go the company tools route make it clear that your list is just a best guess and subject to change once you get out in the field.
Absolutely.

Figure out what sizes you need regularly and only carry those.
[…]
Figure out whether shallow, mid or deep sockets work best and only carry one length.
Yeah, this is one of those things I’m going to just have to figure out in the field. Fortunately restricted access isn’t as much of a problem on these machines as it is on cars, so I don’t anticipate having to fiddle around with socket/extension combos as much to find the sweet spot.

Forget the ratcheting wrenches for now. Your primary focus has to shift from productivity to capability.
This is good insight, thank you.

I've found needle nose with the burner jaws to be good all round lighter use pliers
“Burner jaws”? I’m unfamiliar with the term, and am not finding much on google—care to elaborate?

Luckily for me, Jensen was right here in Phoenix so it was easy to just pop in and look over different pallets and pick the best ones.
Oh, that is lucky. We don’t have any good tool retailers/distributors where I’m at. I swear, Grainger’s catalog is a nightmare!
sounds like you'll need a DMM as well.

And use those expenses! Have they set any spending limits?
Yeah, I will be needing a DMM. I’ve been using my own, a Fluke 87V (I believe), for the time being. I think something like The Fluke 117 plus an amp clamp meter will fit my needs.

Anyone have any input on that choice?

Also, to answer your question, I haven't been given any sort of a budget at all. I've basically been told to get what I need, but I imagine if I break the bank the bean counters will be looking at me a lot more closely haha.

Thanks for the input so far, guys! I surely do appreciate it.
 
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OP
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Oh, I just realized I overlooked some things I'll be needing for the truck.

Anyone have any suggestions on a metric/SAE tap and die set?

I figure I could just buy one complete set, which would be overkill, but at least I'd be done with it.

I will also need some sorts of damaged screw extractor set. Any insight there?

I'll also obviously be needing some drill bits. Where should I be looking there? I know I could go to Home Depot or Lowes and buy some ****, but they'll just get cooked and be worthless pretty quickly I'd imagine, so I think this is one of those areas where spending more costs a lot less.

Thanks again guys.
 

Mr. T

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Anyone have any suggestions on a metric/SAE tap and die set?

I figure I could just buy one complete set, which would be overkill, but at least I'd be done with it.

I went the route of buying the Hout indexes and filling them with quality bits and taps. Pretty much any quality USA brand will be better and cheaper in the long run than a “everything and the kitchen sink” set.

As far as dies go. In my line of work, if I can’t fix it with a thread file easily, I use a new fastener. With the notable exception of pipe thread dies for making custom lengths of threaded pipe.

I will also need some sorts of damaged screw extractor set. Any insight there?

I use plain old easy-outs. They work well for me. Other people may disagree.

It’s also worth getting the indicated sizes of bits for them in LH twist.

I'll also obviously be needing some drill bits. Where should I be looking there? I know I could go to Home Depot or Lowes and buy some ****, but they'll just get cooked and be worthless pretty quickly I'd imagine, so I think this is one of those areas where spending more costs a lot less.


This really depends on what variety of bits you need. Again, I like quality USA made bits. However this can be surprisingly expensive if you need all of the sizes. I get by with a 1-13mm 25pc set and a 1/16-1/2” 29pc set in my cart.

I’d stick with 118 deg. Split point jobber sized.
 
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AngryBeaver

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Sorry I missed this post. I've been a service tech for a world wide rental company for 17 years. I also grew up being an automotive tech and have two snap on triple banks loaded down with tons of tools.....

We specialize in generators, power generation, transformers, distribution, etc. so with that said, one day I'm working on rebuilding diesel engines in the field, or shop. The next day will be rewiring a unit. the next day I'm setting up generators for broadcast at the super bowl.

now, we also do HVAC equipment. mainly chillers, air conditions, air handlers, pumps, etc. some dehumidifiers.

with all that said.... I work out of a service truck. I also travel quite a bit (fly).

I have one set of tools on my service truck that gets the most use if I can just roll up to a piece of equipment. I have a veto pro pack backpack that has everything I need to jump on a plane or go inside a nuclear plant or refinery where I can't get my truck to. then i have the shop tool box when I'm doing major rebuild/replace stuff.

the main things I have in my Veto (which are a lot of doubles between the service truck and shop box). I've spent 17 years figuring out what tools work best for me, what tools offer multiple uses to cutdown on space and weight.. with that said, here goes:

Knipex alligators or cobras in 5", 7", 10". these replace small crescent wrenches and pipe wrenches. I use the 12" cobras to install black pipe and other npt fittings but keep those on the truck.

I carry a knipex 5" pliers wrench in my pocket at all times. this doubles as a small adjustable wrench and an impressive set of pliers. I also carry the 7-1/4" inch ones in my backpack. I used to carry the snap on Flank drive adjustable wrenches. they are the best adjustables for rusted/worn/rounded maintenance style work. until just recently, these were all I used until trying the knipex... I will be getting the 10" pliers wrench also.

I carry two pair of knipex needle nose pliers. a 6-1/2" little pair... then a 8" pair of bent nose. these work awesome for pulling wires into position for outlets and terminal strips.

I carry a knipex mini cable shear for smaller multi strand communication/sheilded wires. if knipex made a larger set of shears, I'd own them.

I carry the 9-10" Klein journeyman cable cutters. I've tried other brands and this is the only 9-10" cable shear that can cut SO 4/0 if need be. they are rated for 2/0 copper and 4/0 aluminum, but with a swift foot action, will cut SO copper 4/0 if needed. I carry longer ones on the truck for cutting multi strand 2/0 conductors and multiple cuts of 4/0.

for dykes or side cuts, I like the 8" kleins. regular grip on them fits in the bag better. have a 10" pair of knipex on the truck for bigger/thicker cutting duties.

I carry the Milwaukee combo strippers. I've tried every brand of stripper and have thoroughly enjoyed these. I really like the snap on mini stripers with the crimper on them, but they don't go up to 10 gauge stranded which is commonplace in our line of work, the thick tips on these pliers work well as a "linesman-ish" plier. I don't carry a linesman type plier in the bag, but have the klein linesman on the truck if needed. I really like my snap on pliers, but they rust if you look at them wrong. living in a service truck where there is condensation is just bad news for them.

for screwdrivers, I carry a set of insulated wiha for most general and electrical work. I also have a 3.0 tip wiha for all the terminal blocks and DIN rails. I have a 6 in 1 that I will carry in my back pocket for getting into panels and equipment. and then I carry a steel tipped beater driver if I have to hammer or motivate something into position.

I carry a lenox utility knife and lenox carbide blades. they seem to hold up the best cutting cable and insulation.

I do not carry any wrench sets in my tool bag. I have some of the canvas klein bags (ones for metric and standard) and can grab them if needed. I carry a 10mm ratcheting wrench and 13mm ratcheting wrench. that's it.

I carry a milwaukee M12 impact and a small set of bits/sockets.

then I carry a short handled snap on 3/8 flex head and a select few sizes of allen sockets for lug and cable terminations. (1/4, 5/16, 3/8 and 1/2") then a 3/8, 7/16, 1/2, 9/16 3/4" deep socket. thats it. If I need more sockets, I grab the set from the truck.

the last thing I carry is a fluke T5-600. its small and accurate and does all of the "maintenance" functions. If I need to amp 4/0 cable, or need a precision meter for doing grid work, I have multiple meters on the truck.

IT doesn't sound like much, but it weighs over 100lbs. I got sick of lugging around the carry bag, and went to the backpack. I could load it up more, but the weight of a 180lb backpack on my 165lb frame isn't something I enjoy.. and no, there isn't a better pack on the market. the husky roller bags last about 6-8 months with daily use. the other brands of backpacks tear out and zippers fail pretty regularly. the Veto is pricey, but after you wasted a couple hundred bucks on inferior bags, you'll see they are worth it.

Nordstrom drill bits are great for the price. they come in a nice little round holder that is durable and will live upto service truck duties.. those and all my drill bits reside in the truck. harbor freight step drills get more use than my regular bits. I carry an entire line of milwaukee M18 tools. the grinder is an awesome awesome addition to any service tech that does removals, installs or swapping parts. a wire wheel on it makes for fast cleanup of flanges or rusted parts. For easy outs, I use the short irwin styles. the only set Ive found that actually works. this set can be found under many brands, including snap on and hanson i believe. I carry one set of tap on dies, that I purchased from a pawn shop years ago. you won't use this much, but will save your but when you need it. I also carry the three diffenrt sized thread files. These are an absolute life saver. The milwaukee hackzall is more versatile and smaller footprint for the service truck than a sawzall. i keep a circular saw for cutting dunnage or blocking off windows with plywood.

I keep a 48" aluminum pipe wrench on the truck, as well as a compete set of 3/4" sockets. I also carry the larges pair of knipex cobras (22-24"). I keep a rigid No5 aluminum strap wrench for round or delicate things. I keep my mac 56" pry bar and an 8' spud bar on the truck also. again, not something you will use every day, but a life saver when you need something like a motor, or fan assembly moved an inch....

sorry for the novel. if you need any pics or specific part numbers let me know.

Good luck. different field than automotive. it'll take you time to figure out what exactly your needs will be, but you'll figure it out.
 
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MattT

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“Burner jaws”? I’m unfamiliar with the term, and am not finding much on google—care to elaborate?

You get what you pay for ;)

https://shop.snapon.com/product/196ANCF

https://www.channellock.com/product/e318/

Yeah, I will be needing a DMM. I’ve been using my own, a Fluke 87V (I believe), for the time being. I think something like The Fluke 117 plus an amp clamp meter will fit my needs.

Anyone have any input on that choice?

The 117 is only 600V so if you need to measure DC bus voltage on 480V drives it isn't gonna work for you. Other than that it's a decent basic meter and the Lo-Z is handy for AC controls work.

Personally I use 179s and made my own "Lo-Z" adapter. Fluke also make an adapter but I wasn't aware of them when I made mine.

https://www.fluke.com/en-us/product/accessories/adapters/fluke-sv225

IT doesn't sound like much, but it weighs over 100lbs.

Sounds like you've got a lot more than you listed in that bag. The one time I tried to check a tool case that weighed over 100# I got told the baggage monkeys wouldn't be able to lift it:wtf: Under a 100# they kept telling me they were supposed to charge for an overweight bag but never would take the credit card:headscrat
 

thefoobag

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Joined
Oct 25, 2013
Messages
85
Oh, I just realized I overlooked some things I'll be needing for the truck.

Anyone have any suggestions on a metric/SAE tap and die set?

I figure I could just buy one complete set, which would be overkill, but at least I'd be done with it.

I will also need some sorts of damaged screw extractor set. Any insight there?

I'll also obviously be needing some drill bits. Where should I be looking there? I know I could go to Home Depot or Lowes and buy some ****, but they'll just get cooked and be worthless pretty quickly I'd imagine, so I think this is one of those areas where spending more costs a lot less.

Thanks again guys.

for a good set you can get large coarse/fine kits from amazon. Been using these and harbor freight ones for years. as long as you drill the correct size hole and use some oil for cutting/cleaning you'll never break one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000R3BQ6W/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 

Tripn88

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Houston
I jump between the shop and a service truck. I can knock on 97% of the jobs with basic stuff on heavy equipment. I have a 3/8 and 1/2 inch sunex impact set. Full sets of metric/sae combo wrenches, screwdrivers, pry bars, ball peen hammers and a sledge. I also carry my snappy 3/8 impact and matco 1/2 impact and a ratchet. I also carry my craftsman usa thread restore kit which is the exact same as the tool trucks. If you work on hydraulic lines 4 way wrenches are a must have to save some time. I also have a sweet snapon 3/8 drive ratchet in a 1/4 inch body so pretty much everything I can get down to 8mm. Then I just get out my bluepoint 1/4 set for anything less than that which isnt much and I hardly use it anymore but it does come in hand. Other than that there really isnt much need for anything special for me at least. I do have side cutters and pliers and normal stuff that I use all the time as well.

I would definitely recommend going through the tool truck equivalent 2.0 thread to save some money.
 
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jjkrjh

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Depends on what you will be getting into. But generally in field service you will be working by yourself. Chains, straps, cable winch's can help hold or align things. A $20 sizzor jack can be used to hold something at the right height. or spread things apart.

For the tap and dies I hate to say it but the big Harbor Freight sets are ideal for field service guys. Generally you will be repairing damaged threads or broken bolts. Having a good set of drill bits and run a cheap tap thru and you are good to go. The Harbor Freight sets go to something like 24mm and 1inch-which should cover pretty much most repairs. Condensation, rain, frost riding around in a van destroys good tap and dies, cases also. $90 Harbor Freights can make them disposable.
 

lardy1

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I'm hoping that in the five months since the OP posted that he did his shopping.
 

platypus20

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camillus, ny (syracuse)
You guys are lucky, about 30-40% of our customers, have outlawed adjustable wrenches, channel-locks, most razor and jackknives, most pliers, any type of Leatherman tools, automatic wire strippers and non-ratcheting terminal crimpers (probably more, just can’t remember).
 

theoldwizard1

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I quit working on cars, and after a short stint doing field service for a petroleum company, I am starting an equipment repair (field service) department for a packaging company. I'm the first guy to do the job for the company, and as far as the actual work goes it's pretty straightforward--it's all pretty bog standard electrical and mechanical repair, with some pneumatic systems.
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From what I've seen so far, most of the fasteners are in the small to medium range, unless I'm doing assembly or really taking a machine apart, then the structural fasteners can be north of 1".
First, buy a 1/2" drive set that comes in a separate carrying case. Hopefully it would be big enough for larger (> 7/8" combo wrenches). All of my 1/2 drive stuff is in the back of a bottom drawer.

Buy a couple of non-standard, oversized 3/8" sockets.

Even if you use an impact, I would not buy impact sockets. Not worth the space and weight.

Pliers: As I mentioned I'll be doing electrical repairs, as well as general mechanical repairs. Any advice on how I can get the most done with the fewest pliers? I'll need side cutters, strippers/crimpers/cutters, snap ring pliers, needle/long nose pliers, and some sorts of adjustable pliers / water pump pliers.
For some reason I seem to do a lot of wiring on appliances and low voltage, which has lead to A LOT OF DIFFERENT PLIERS ! Buy them all !! You will eventually choose which ones to carry and which ones to leave on the truck.


The last statement is the key. Experienced techs learn what is the minimum tools to bring "on the job" and leave the rest in the truck. (For example, you will probably use 2 or 3 sizes of nut drivers 95% of the time, but you might as well buy the whole set.)
 

giants

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Knipex alligators or cobras in 5", 7", 10". these replace small crescent wrenches and pipe wrenches. I use the 12" cobras to install black pipe and other npt fittings but keep those on the truck.

What are the differences between the alligators and cobras? In general, would you recommend one over the other?
 

yrly

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Messages
691
Missed this since I just started coming around here again recently. The easiest solution for the metric/standard situation is in my avatar, Metrinch. It isn’t cheap though.
 
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